The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K | |
= P | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts. In next round K YO twisted to avoid wholes |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Elinor Dashwood |
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Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and textured pattern, worked top down in "Alaska", worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 157-5 |
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GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. INCREASE TIP 1 (applies to yoke): Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP 2: Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 2 (marker is between these), 1 YO. On next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of YO instead of front) to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP (applies to waist + sleeve): Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Dec as follows 2 sts before marker: K 2 tog. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked in the round, top down. YOKE: Cast on 69-76-80-84-87-91 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Alaska. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid back. Now switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME inc 41-45-52-59-67-85 sts evenly – READ INCREASE TIP 1! There are now 110-121-132-143-154-176 sts on round. Then work an elevation back and forth in the neck from mid back as follows: K 9-10-11-12-13-14, turn piece and P 18-20-22-24-26-28. Turn piece, K 27-29-31-33-35-37, turn piece and P 36-38-40-42-44-46. Turn piece and K 45-47-49-51-53-55, turn piece and P 54-56-58-60-62-64. Turn piece and K over all sts until marker. On next round, work and inc according to pattern A.1 – choose diagram for correct size. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When entire diagram A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 220-242-264-286-308-352 sts on needle. On next round work 1st row in A.2, AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-8-8-10-16-0 sts evenly = 228-250-272-296-324-352 sts. Work next round as follows: 2nd row in A.2 over the first 31-35-39-43-48-53 sts, slip the next 51-55-57-61-65-69 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts (= under sleeve), continue with A.2 over the next 64-70-80-88-98-108 sts (= front piece), slip the next 51-55-57-61-65-69 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, A.2 over the next 31-35-39-43-48-53 sts. There are now 142-156-174-190-210-230 sts for body. BODY: Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from new sts under sleeve, insert 4 markers in piece as follows: 17-20-23-25-28-31 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker, 36-38-40-44-48-52 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker, 36-40-48-52-58-64 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker, 36-38-40-44-48-52 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker, 17-20-23-25-28-31 sts in stockinette st. Now beg dec - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker (NOTE! 1st marker is 1st marker on row from RS!). Repeat dec every 1-1-1½-2-3½-3½ cm / 3/8"-3/8"-½"-3/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" 4-4-4-3-2-2 times in total = 126-140-158-178-202-222 sts. Now insert a marker in the middle of the 36-38-40-42-48-52 sts in each side (i.e. between 1st and 2nd marker and between 3rd and 4th marker) = 5th and 6th marker. When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½'' from the new sts under sleeve, beg inc – remember INCREASE TIP 1! Inc before 1st and 3rd marker and after 2nd and 4th marker. Repeat inc every 3 cm / 1'' 4 more times, AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd, 3rd and 4th inc, inc 1 st on each side of 5th and 6th marker (= sides) – READ INCREASE TIP 2! When all inc are done there are 158-172-190-210-234-254 sts on needle. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm / 12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼'' from new sts under sleeve, inc 4-2-2-0-0-4 sts evenly = 162-174-192-210-234-258 sts. Then work A.3 over all sts. When A.3 has been worked vertically, inc 42-45-51-66-78-90 sts evenly = 204-219-243-276-312-348 sts. Work 1 round in stockinette st. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. Continue like this until rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8''. Bind off with K over K and P over P. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 51-55-57-61-65-69 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Work 2nd row in A.2, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve at the end of row = 59-63-65-69-73-77 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the 8 new sts (i.e. 4 sts on each side of marker). Then work in the round. Continue with pattern according to diagram A.2 – NOTE: Adjust pattern according to the middle, arrow in diagram marks middle st on top of sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from marker, beg dec – READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2-1½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm / 3/4"-½"-½"-½"-½"-3/8" 8-10-11-10-12-14 more times = 41-41-41-47-47-47 sts remain. When piece measures 34 cm / 13½'' in all sizes, inc 1 st = 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.3. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, inc 3 sts evenly = 45-45-45-51-51-51 sts. Now switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work rib (K 1/P 2). Bind off with K over K and P over P when rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8''. ASSEMBLY: Sew the holes under the sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (66)
Helle Knudsen wrote:
Der refereres til diagram A1, A2 og A3. Jeg kan kun se diagram A1 i opskriften. Hvor er A2 og A3. Mvh Helle
05.10.2015 - 23:46DROPS Design answered:
Hej Helle. De staar lige under A.1
06.10.2015 - 12:18Anke wrote:
Ich habe noch eine weitere Frage: Das Muster A.2 läuft ja über 24M (wobei eine Wdh nach 6M), d.h. die Maschenzahl müsste ein Vielfaches von 6 sein, was nicht immer der Fall ist. Ist der Bruch im Muster am Ende der Reihe so gewollt?
25.09.2015 - 23:02DROPS Design answered:
A.2 stricken Sie ja nur am Ärmel komplett zu Ende. Dadurch, dass Sie an der unteren Ärmelmitte Abnahmen machen, geht das Muster dort nicht auf. Sie müssen es, wenn Sie oben am Ärmel beginnen, das Muster so anpassen, dass die Mitte des Musters oben in der Mitte auf dem Ärmel liegt. Sie stricken dann einfach so weit es geht, es ist normal, dass das Muster an der unteren Ärmelmitte einen "Bruch" hat.
28.09.2015 - 10:50Anke wrote:
Ich habe ein kleines Verständnisproblem mit der Anleitung: "In der nächsten Rd die 1. Rd von A.2 stricken und GLEICHZEITIG 8M gleichmäßig verteilt zunehmen (=250M)" Ist mit "die 1. Rd von A.2 stricken" gemeint, dass man das Muster A.2 erstmal durchstrickt und anschließend 8M zunimmt? und dann weiter mit der Anleitung verfährt? Besten Dank und viele Grüße Anke
22.09.2015 - 00:10DROPS Design answered:
Nein, Sie müssen bereits in der 1. Rd von A.2 die 8 M zunehmen. Sie stricken also die 1. Rd von A.2, das sind nur rechte Maschen, und nehmen dabei 8 M zu. Denn stricken Sie die 2. Rd von A.2, das sind nur linke Maschen, und legen dabei wie beschrieben M still.
27.09.2015 - 22:39Constanza wrote:
Hola. Estoy tejiendo la talla M y no entiendo cómo se ajusta el gráfico A2 al comienzo de la manga. Ya la cuarta fila del gráfico no coincide con la cantidad de puntos (63 puntos). Gracias por la ayuda!
04.09.2015 - 02:24DROPS Design answered:
Hola Constanza. El pt con la flecha en el diagrama tiene que coincidir con el pt central de la manga (en la parte superior de la manga). A cada lado del pt central hay 31 pts, es decir que empezamos a trabajar el diagrama en el 5º pt del diagrama (se trabajan 20 pts hasta el final del diagrama + 11 pts de otra repetición del diagrama desde el principio hasta la flecha (el pt con la flecha no está incluído))
08.09.2015 - 11:31Debbie wrote:
Hi - I am having a problem with getting the pattern to line up at the back marker ( still at the top) especially the the large criss cross section - am I doing something wrong with the increasing of the stitches? Or will it work itself out - doesn't look right to me - please help!!!!
04.08.2015 - 09:38DROPS Design answered:
Dear Debbie, insert a marker between each repetition to check your sts following the diagram appropriate to your size to be sure it will match. Happy knitting!
04.08.2015 - 17:51Rainbowis wrote:
Sorry for my many questions. You mean that i continue decreasing until the piece measures 14cm from the new markers under sleeves then start increasing from here as instructed? Regards.
03.08.2015 - 11:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rainbowis, dec should be done when you insert new markers (5th and 6th ones), then start inc when piece measures 16 cm (in size L) from the new sts under sleeve as stated. Happy knitting!
03.08.2015 - 16:12Rainbowis wrote:
Thanks for helping. I need to know shall I continue knitting without decreasing after putting the 5th & 6th sts? Regards.
01.08.2015 - 11:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rainbowis, markers 5 and 6 are inserted when all sts are dec (when you have 158 sts) then you will inc 1 st on each side of these both markers when it says: "When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the new sts under sleeve, beg inc – remember INCREASE TIP 1! Inc before 1st and 3rd marker and after 2nd and 4th marker. Repeat inc every 3 cm 4 more times, AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd, 3rd and 4th inc, inc 1 st on each side of 5th and 6th marker (= sides) – READ INCREASE TIP 2!" Happy knitting!
03.08.2015 - 09:18Rainbowis wrote:
Does between means in the middle of the 1st and 2nd markers or it means at the 40th St? Regards & thanks
29.07.2015 - 19:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rainbowis, that's correct you put marker in the middle of 40 sts in st st, ie you will have 20 sts before and 20 sts after the new markers. Happy knitting!
30.07.2015 - 10:54Rainbowis wrote:
Yes according to instruction received on 18.05.2015 and remaining 158 St. Regards.
28.07.2015 - 13:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rainbowis, the 5th marker should be placed between 1st and 2nd makers (where you have 40 sts between these markers) and the 6th marker should be placed between the 3rd and 4th marker (where you have 40 sts between these) = these new markers are for the sides of jumper. Happy knitting!
29.07.2015 - 10:06Rainbowis wrote:
Hi, I finished the dec until I had 158 sts, however, when I count to add th 5th and 6th markers which is bet. 1st & 2nd - 3rd & 4th I found that the 40th sts is the same marker of the 2nd & 4th sts !!!?? They are not the middle as the pattern instructed. :$ Regards.
24.07.2015 - 12:10DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rainbowis, did you dec 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker ?
27.07.2015 - 17:17