DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Endless Links

Crocheted head band and neck warmer in DROPS Air. Piece is crocheted with loop – cables and increase for saddle shoulders.

DROPS 214-28

#endlesslinksset

DROPS design: Pattern ai-300
Yarn group C or A + A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150 g color 17, denim blue

HEAD BAND:

SIZE:
One-size
Measurements: Width: approx. 11 cm = 4⅜" Length approx. 48 cm = 19" - or desired length.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50 g color 17, denim blue

CROCHET GAUGE:
16 double crochets in width and 9 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
12 rows vertically measures approx. 10 with pattern A.1.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7.
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller hook.

NECK:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL
Measurements: Height: Approx. 22-24 cm = 8¾"-9½" (+ 8 cm = 3⅛" neck). Shoulder width: approx. 35-41 cm = 13¾"- 16⅛"

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100 g color 17, denim blue

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
11 rows vertically measures approx. 10 cm = 4" with pattern A.3.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm = US H/8
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
Head band: See diagram A.1
Neck warmer: See diagrams A.2 and A.3.

CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight. 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet/treble crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At beginning of every row/round with double crochets work 3 chain stitches, these chain stitches do not replace first double round but are worked in addition to stitches on round/row. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
At beginning of every row/round with single crochets work 1 chain stitch, this chain stitch does not replace 1st single crochet but are worked in addition to stitches on round/row. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet on round

CROCHET TIP (applies when working in the round):
To make the texture the same when working back and forth, turn the piece for every round worked. I.e. work every other round from right side and wrong side as follows:
Work first round from right side of piece. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round. Turn piece and work next round from wrong side of piece. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st single crochet at beginning of round. Turn piece and work next round from right side of piece.
Work back and forth like this, with alternately one round from right side and one round from wrong side.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 4 stitches on each side of shoulder stitches (A.3) in each side of piece by working 5 double crochets in a stitch (= 16 stitches increased in total on every round with increase).
Increases are in each side of front and back piece, i.e. number of stitch on shoulders is always the same. Work the new stitches in pattern A.2.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch inside 1 stitch in each side as follows: * Insert hook in next stitch, get yarn *, work from *-* 2 times in total, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HEAD BAND - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Head band is worked back and forth and sewn together when finished.

HEAD BAND:
Work 18 chain stitches -read CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCH, on hook size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Air. Work pattern A.1 back and forth - read CROCHET INFO.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When diagram has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows until piece measures 48 cm = 19" - or to desired length (adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side).
Now work chain stitch loops vertically together into loop - cables as follows:
Insert hook in first chain stitch loop from right side, pull 2nd chain stitch loop through first chain stitch loop, insert hook in 2nd chain stitch loop and pull 3rd chain stitch loop through chain stitch loop. Continue like this until all chain stitch loops have been crocheted together.
Work last row back from wrong side as follows: Work 1 single crochet in every stitch and work 1 single crochet in each of the last chain stitch loops to that they don’t unravel.
Cut the yarn but keep some yarn for assembly. Sew together head band mid back in one and one stitch upwards.

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NECK WARMER - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Work piece in the round from the neck and down to increase until shoulder is finished. Work in the round, at the same time turn piece for every round - read CROCHET TIP.
When increase for shoulder is done, divide piece for front and back piece and work pieces back and forth separately.

NECK WARMER:
Work 68- 68 chain stitches - read CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCH, on hook size 5 mm = US H/8 with Air and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch made. Insert a marker at beginning of round = approx. mid back.
Now work pattern - read CROCHET INFO AND CROCHET TIP, as follows: Work A.2 over the first 8-8 stitches (= half back piece), A.3 over the next 17-17 stitches (= shoulder stitches), A.2 over the next 17-17 stitches (= front piece), A.3 over the next 17-17 stitches (= shoulder stitches), A.2 over the last 9-9 stitches (= half back piece). When diagram has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rounds. Continue like this until piece measures 8-8 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛", adjust so that next round will be worked from right side. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Insert a marker in the middle of the 17-17 stitches on front piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now continue pattern the same way as before, but on next round from right side increase 4 stitch on each side of shoulder stitch - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this on every round from right side (i.e. every round with double crochets) 4-5 times in total = 132-148 stitches. After last increase work chain stitch loops in A.2 vertically together to loop cables on every shoulder as follows:
Insert hook in first chain stitch loop at the top towards the neck from right side, pull 2nd chain stitch loop through first chain stitch loop, insert hook in 2nd chain stitch loop and pull 3rd chain stitch loop through chain stitch loop. Continue like this until all chain stitch loops have been crocheted together.

Then work last row with single crochet from wrong side as follows:
Work 1 single crochet in each of the 25-29 stitches until A.3 (= half back piece), work 1 single crochet in every stitch and work 1 single crochet around the last chain stitch loop in each of the vertical lines with chain stitch loop worked together in A.3 (= shoulder), work 1 single crochet in every stitch over the next 49-57 stitches (= front piece), work 1 single crochet in every stitch and work 1 single crochet around the last chain stitch loop in each of the vertical lines with chain stitch loops worked together in A.3 (= shoulder), work 1 single crochet in each of the remaining 24-28 stitches. Now the chain stitch loops should be fastened to not unravel. Cut the yarn. Now work front and back piece back and forth separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 49-57 stitches. Begin from right side and work A.2 back and forth as before – read CROCHET INFO. On next row from wrong side decrease 1 stitch in each side of piece - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every row from wrong side 4-5 times in total = 41-47 stitches. Continue until piece measures 22-24 cm = 8¾"-9½" from marker, adjust to finish after a row with single crochets from wrong side. Cut and fasten the yarn. Neck warmer measures 30-32 cm = 11¾"-12½" from neck edge and down.

BACK PIECE:
= 49-57 stitches. Work the same way as on front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = begin on this row/round, previous row/round has already been worked
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch (worked from right side)
symbols = Work 10 chain stitches - remember CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCHES, work 1 slip stitch in the first of these 10 chain stitches to make a chain stitch loop and tighten yarn somewhat before continuing.
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch (worked from wrong side)
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Lyse Goyette wrote:

Bonjour pour faire le bandeau , ils disent de crocheter A1 , c'est tout comment on fait pour les torsades dois je crocheter A 2 ou A 3 ... Merci j'attends votre réponse je suis du Québec Canada .

17.02.2022 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Goyette, ces torsades sont composées de ronds de mailles en l'air que vous crochèterez ensemble pour former ces torsades à la fin (cf explications écrites); cette vidéo montre (pour un autre modèle) comment réaliser ces ronds de mailles en l'air (étoile noire dans ces diagrammes) et comment les crocheter ensemble pour former les torsades. Bon crochet!

18.02.2022 - 08:21

country flag Eva wrote:

Hej! Det står läs VIRKINFORMATION på pannbandets beskrivning. Avsluta varvet med smygmaska i tredje luftmaskan. Men där finns ju ingen tredje luftmaska då dessa endast virkas i början på stolpvarvet. Vad menas och hur ska man gör? Mvh Eva (I början av varje varv med stolpar virkas det 3 luftmaskor, dessa luftmaskorna ersätter inte första stolpen, utan virkas i tillägg till maskorna på varvet. Varvet avslutas med 1 smygmaska i 3:e luftmaskan i början av varvet.)

27.10.2021 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Pannebåndet hekles frem og tilbake (rader) og under hekleinformasjon står det at du skal hekle 3 luftmaske på begynnelsen av hver rad/omgang med staver, disse luftmaskene erstatter ikke første stav, men hekles i tillegg til maskene på omgangen/raden. Denne informasjonen gjelder både pannebåndet (hekles frem og tilbake = rader) og halsen (hekles rundt = omganger). Når det så står "Omgangen avsluttes med 1 kjedemaske i 3.luftmaske på begynnelsen av omgangen", gjelder dette bare hals (altså det som hekles rundt / omgang og ikke det som hekles frem og tilbake (rader)). mvh DROPS Design

01.11.2021 - 11:04

country flag Ana wrote:

¿Qué significa grupo de lanas C o A+A? Que se puede usar un grosor C o juntar dos cabos de grosor A? Muchas gracias!

20.11.2020 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana! Puedes usar un cabo de grosor C o dos cabos se grosor A (junos). El grosor obtenido sera lo mismo en dos casos. Buen trabajo!

20.11.2020 - 18:49

country flag Valentina Caiolo wrote:

Come posso fare diventare la fascia un cappello?

13.11.2020 - 10:30

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valentina, per un aiuto così personalizzato si può rivolgere al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

17.11.2020 - 22:27