DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 629

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

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Deep Woods

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, cable-pattern and V-neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 215-6

#deepwoodscardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-901
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour 7815, forest mix
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 19, dark green

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 5-5-5-5-5-5 items

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitch in stocking stitch (stitch with marker thread) in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on the row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

V-NECK:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Make 1 yarn over on the inside of the edge stitch on each side. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch. 2 stitches increased on each increase-row (1 stitch each side)

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work 5 buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn).
1 buttonhole = knit 2 stitches together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The bottom buttonhole is worked approx. 2 cm from the bottom edge and the top buttonhole where the V-neck begins. The other 4 buttonholes are worked evenly between them (with approx. 8 cm between each one).
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. AT THE SAME TIME increases are made for the V-neck and raglan. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. The neck/bands are worked to finish.

YOKE:
Cast on 80-82-84-86-88-90 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand Kid-Silk and 1 strand Alpaca (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side.

READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Count 3 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 26 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 18-20-22-24-26-28 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 26 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, there are 3 stitches left after the last marker thread (= front piece). Continue with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch and stocking stitch over the stitches on both front pieces, stocking stitch on the back piece and A.1 (= 26 stitches) over each sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase to RAGLAN in each transition between body and sleeves – read description above. Continue this increase every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 22-25-27-29-33-36 times on both sides of all 4 marker threads. Continue the increase 2 more times on the front and back pieces (do not increase any more on the sleeves). AT THE SAME TIME on row 6 (i.e. the 3rd row from the right side) increase for the V-NECK on each side towards mid front – read description above, as follows: Increase every 6th row a total of 4-5-6-7-8-9 times and every 4th row a total of 3 times (= a total of 7-8-9-10-11-12 stitches increased on each side towards mid front). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase to raglan, continue working without further increases until the piece measures 22-25-27-29-33-36 cm; the increases for the V-neck should now be finished. There are 278-306-326-346-382-410 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows:
Work the first 35-39-42-45-50-54 stitches (= front piece), place the next 70-76-80-84-92-98 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 68-76-82-88-98-106 stitches (= back piece), place the next 70-76-80-84-92-98 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the remaining 35-39-42-45-50-54 stitches (= front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 150-166-178-194-218-238 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 25-24-24-24-22-21 cm from the division, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 1 stitch = 151-167-179-195-219-239 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Place the 70-76-80-84-92-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-86-92-102-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and continue with stocking stitch and A.1 in the round.
When the piece measures 3 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-1½-1-1 cm a total of 10-11-13-16-19-21 times = 56-60-60-60-64-68 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-36-34-33-29-27 cm from the division (or to desired length; shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Work 1 round where you decrease 12 stitches evenly over the stitches in A.1 = 44-48-48-48-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, use double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

BANDS/NECK:
Insert 1 marker, middle-back of the neck, to help you knit up half the stitches around the jacket. The bands are knitted up inside the 1 edge stitch on the front pieces and the stitches around the neck are knitted up inside the first row worked.
Start from the right side at the bottom of the right front piece – knit up approx. 119-125-131-137-143-149 stitches, up the front piece and halfway around the neck, using circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality – leave the marker here. Knit up approx. 120-126-132-138-144-150 stitches around the other half of the neck and down the left front piece; the number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1 = approx. 239-251-263-275-287-299 stitches. It is important that the bands are neither too loose or too tight.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 1 and finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 1½ cm. Now work the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. Continue the rib until the bands measure 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, remember the CASTING-OFF TIP

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
	= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 6 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #deepwoodscardigan or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Deep Woods

Inger Gamme, Norway

Deep Woods

Ania, Poland

Deep Woods

Kathrine, Norway

Deep Woods

Val, France

Deep Woods

Anagocha, Spain

Deep Woods

Monika, Poland

Deep Woods

Inger Gamme, Norway

Deep Woods

Ania, Poland

Deep Woods

Kathrine, Norway

Deep Woods

Val, France

Deep Woods

Anagocha, Spain

Deep Woods

Monika, Poland

Comments / Questions (30)

Gabrielle wrote:

Bonjour, Je débute en tricot, je fais du S. 250g d'Alpaca, ça veut dire 5 pelotes ? Ca me parait peu. Ou j'ai mal compris ? Merci!

12.01.2025 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gabrielle, vous allez tricoter ici avec 2 laines en même temps: Alpaca et Kid-Silk, en taille S, il vous faudra effectivement 5 pelotes de 50 g DROPS Alpaca mais aussi 4 pelotes de 25 g Kid-Silk. Bon tricot!

13.01.2025 - 10:02

Carmen wrote:

Je ne comprends pas le nombre de mailles de base. Je fais la grandeur L. Je dois monter 84 mailles. Pour placer les marqueur, je compte 1 maille lisière, 3 mailles devant, 26 mailles manche, 22 mailles dos, 26 mailles manche, 3 mailles devant et 1 maille lisière. J’arrive à 82 mailles et non pas 84. Qu’est-ce que je n’ai pas compris?

12.12.2024 - 16:36

Bonjour Carmen, notez que les marqueurs doivent être placés dans une maille (pas entre les mailles), et que les mailles lisières sont comprises dans les 3 m des devants, autrement dit, comptez ainsi: 3 m (devant), 1 m avec un marqueur, 26 m (manche), 1 m avec un marqueur, 22 m (dos), 1 m avec un marqueur, 26 m (manche), 1 m avec un marqueur, 3 m (devant) = 3+1+26+1+22+1+26+1+3=84 m. Bon tricot!

13.12.2024 - 07:24

Christine wrote:

Bonjour, j’aimerais faire ce modèle mais sans les torsades sur les manches est ce possible avec le même nombre de mailles ? Merci pour votre réponse.

16.11.2024 - 18:42

Bonjour Christine, pas vraiment car on prend ici en compte les torsades (on a plus de mailles que pour du jersey car les torsades ont besoin de davantage de mailles pour la même largeur); mais vous trouverez ici tous nos gilets et vestes avec encolure V, tricotés en jersey; l'un d'eux vous inspirera peut-être. Bon tricot!

18.11.2024 - 07:55

Marie wrote:

Bonjour, Tout d'abord, un grand merci pour tous ces modèles gratuits faciles à exécuter grâce à vos explications super claires pour moi qui ne suis pas une experte en tricot ! ensuite pour ce modèle deep woods peut-on tricoter avec 2 fils alpaca au lieu d'un fil alpaca et 1 fil kid silk ? et si oui combien de grammes d'alpaca je devrai acheter en plus ? merci, marie

09.10.2024 - 12:51

Bonjour Marie et merci. Vous pouvez tout à fait tricoter avec 2 fils Alpaca, il vous suffit dans ce cas de doubler la quantité indiquée pour votre taille, si vous tricotez avec la même couleur, il vous en faudra probablement un peu moins, mais si vous en prenez moins vous risquez d'en manquer. Bon tricot!

09.10.2024 - 15:43

Amanda wrote:

Hej! När man gör de sista 12 minskningarna på ärmen innan resåren, ska man göra dem endast på de 26 maskorna i A.1 eller ska man fördela minskningarna över hela varvet? Tack på förhand!

15.02.2024 - 19:25

Hej Amanda. Du minskar de endast på de maskorna i A.1. Mvh DROPS Design

16.02.2024 - 08:15

Ulrika wrote:

Hej! När det ska ökas för v-ringningen, börjar den ökningen direkt på varv 6 från det att man påbörjat arbetet, dvs parallellt med ökningarna för raglan? Eller börjar man öka för v-ringningen först när raglanökningarna är klara?

21.01.2024 - 22:36

Hej Ulrika, ja du skal starte udtagningen til V-hals samtidigt som raglanen :)

02.02.2024 - 13:27

Truus wrote:

Goedendag Ik brei het patroon met veel plezier. Ik heb wel een vraag over de genoemde lengte. Na het meerderen, de raglan, moet je breien tot (in mijn geval) 29 cm. Daarna meet je het werk vanaf de verdeling en brei je dit stuk tot 22 cm lengte. Daarna 4 cm boordsteek. Als ik dit optel, kom ik op 29+22+4= 55cm uit. Het patroon heeft het echter over 62 cm. Waar komen die 7 cm vandaan? Ik hoor het graag.

26.11.2023 - 23:12

Dag Truus,

De 29 cm meet je vanaf de hals/raglan, maar als je het werk plat neerlegt heb je ook nog het stukje van de mouw. Zie ook de tekening onderaan.

29.11.2023 - 19:32

Nicole Roux wrote:

Bonjour Est ce que le modèle se tricote avec les 2 fils à la fois? car je n'ai pas compris (Alpaga et Kid Silk ) Puis faire le modèle uniquement Alpaga? Qu'apporte de plus Kid Silk? Merci

20.11.2023 - 11:52

Bonjour Mme Roux, si vous n'utilisez qu'un seul fil Alpaca, la tension ne sera pas juste, il vous faut donc tricoter avec 2 fils du groupe A, soit par exemple 1 fil Alpaca + 1 fil Kid-Silk, ou bien avec 2 fils Alpaca. Bon tricot!

20.11.2023 - 16:21

Annick wrote:

Wanted to share the finished product but it does not appear that you accept pictures! Thanks for a fun pattern to knit!

16.10.2023 - 02:17

Melissa wrote:

Hello! I really want to make this cardigan, but I prefer to knit it with a high round neck rather than a V-neck. Do you maybe have an instruction on how to change this?

02.07.2023 - 00:27

Dear Melissa, we unfortunately don't have such instructions, but you might find inspiration from our jackets worked top down with round neck and cables. Happy knitting!

03.07.2023 - 10:25

Deep Woods

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, cable-pattern and V-neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (30)

Deep Woods

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, cable-pattern and V-neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

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	DROPS Alpaca uni colour 100% Alpaca	3.40 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix 100% Alpaca	3.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Alpaca uni colour 100% Alpaca 3.40 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix 100% Alpaca 3.50 £ /50g Order