DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Deep Woods Sweater

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan and cables on the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 215-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-902
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour 7815, forest mix
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 19, dark green

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitch in stocking stitch (stitch with marker thread) in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on the round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 
 

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked in the round with circular needle from mid-back and top down. AT THE SAME TIME increases are made for raglan. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand Kid-Silk and 1 strand Alpaca (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) over all stitches for 3 cm. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and insert 1 marker here. The yoke will now be measured from this marker.

Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Count 11-12-13-14-15-16 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 20 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 22-24-26-28-30-32 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 20 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, there are 11-12-13-14-15-16 stitches left on the round before the first marker thread (= half back piece). Knit 1 round where you increase 6 stitches evenly on both sleeves = 100-104-108-112-116-120 stitches (26 stitches on each sleeve). Then work stocking stitch over the front and back pieces and A.1 (= 26 stitches) over each sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round, increase to RAGLAN in each transition between body and sleeves – read description above. Increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 22-25-27-29-33-36 times on both sides of all 4 stitches with marker threads = 276-304-324-344-380-408 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase to raglan continue working without further increases until the piece measures 20-23-25-27-31-34 cm from the marker.

The next round is worked as follows:
Work the first 34-38-41-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 70-76-80-84-92-98 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 68-76-82-88-98-106 stitches (= front piece), place the next 70-76-80-84-92-98 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 34-38-41-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 148-164-176-192-216-236 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 27-26-26-26-24-23 cm from the division. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib (purl 1, knit 1) over all stitches until the rib measures 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Place the 70-76-80-84-92-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-86-92-102-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and continue with stocking stitch and A.1 in the round.
When the piece measures 3 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-1½-1-1 cm a total of 10-11-13-16-19-21 times = 56-60-60-60-64-68 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-36-35-33-30-28 cm from the division (or to desired length;
shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Work 1 round where you decrease 12 stitches evenly over the stitches in A.1 = 44-48-48-48-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, use double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 215-5

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Comments / Questions (109)

country flag Lisbeth Grenhall wrote:

Vilka stickor ska jag använda om jag ska sticka i Cotton Merino?

31.03.2024 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisbeth. DROPS Cotton Merino blir for tynt til å bruke dersom man skal følge denne oppskriften (DROPS 215-5). mvh DROPS Design

02.04.2024 - 08:48

country flag Tanja Keller wrote:

Hallo\\\\r\\\\nmuss man das muster an den ärmel in jeder runde stricken oder ist dazwischen eine runde nur rechte maschen mit raglanzunahme . also eine runde muster,nächste runde ohne muster mit raglanzunahme ? ich verstehe das nicht,könnten sie mir das bitte erklären wie man das strickt

26.03.2024 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keller, alle Reihen sind im Diagram gezeichnet, so stricken Sie jede Runde genauso wie beim Diagram gezeigt, und jeweils jeder Runde rechts nach links. Hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

02.04.2024 - 10:17

country flag Tanja wrote:

Hallo\r\nmuss man das muster an den ärmel in jeder runde stricken oder ist dazwischen eine runde nur rechte maschen mit raglanzunahme . also eine runde muster,nächste runde ohne muster mit raglanzunahme ? ich verstehe das nicht,könnten sie mir das bitte erklären wie man das strickt

26.03.2024 - 10:08

country flag Anna Carlsson wrote:

Mönstret stämmer inte. Vid 20 cm avsätts maskor för ärmar. Sticka 27 cm strl s och 23 cm strl xl!? Sen 4 cm resår. Arbetet ska därefter mäta 56 cm. Får inte ihop det.

19.02.2024 - 08:43

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Bonjour, merci pour ces beaux modèles que vous nous donnez en accès gratuit. Ils sont bien complets. Toutefois, (certainement un manque de logique pour moi) je suis arrivée au stade où je dois reprendre les mailles des manches en attente puis relever les 6 mailles sous l\\\\\\\'aisselle. Ça, pas de soucis, mais je ne comprends pas comment je peux commencer à tricoter au milieu de ces 6 mailles vu que mon fils de montage va être à gauche de ses 6 mailles. Merci pour votre aide !

06.01.2024 - 23:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ingrid, après avoir relevé toutes les mailles, tricotez jusqu'au milieu des nouvelles mailles, placez un marqueur ici et commencez les tours à partir de là. Bon tricot!

08.01.2024 - 10:26

country flag Katarzyna wrote:

Schemat A1 ma 8 rzędów, czy dodawanie oczek na reglan 22 razy ma wyglądać, tak że dodaje oczka 1 rzędzie, w 3, 5,7. Czy schemat pokazuje wzór co 2 rząd?

06.01.2024 - 19:26

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu, na schemacie pokazane są wszystkie rzędy. Będziesz dodawać oczka na reglan z każdej strony 4 oczek z nitką markerem, co 2 okrążenia. Czyli dodajesz oczka w jednym okrążeniu, a nie dodajesz w drugim, itd. Pozdrawiamy!

07.01.2024 - 17:55

country flag Valerie wrote:

Hello! Können sie mir sagen, wieviel gramm ich in etwa benötige, wenn ich Bingo Big aus der Garngruppe C verwende ? (für größe M) Mit freundlichen Grüßen

20.12.2023 - 23:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Valerie, hier wird es erklärt, wie man die neue Menge kalkuliert, siehe 2 Fäden unterschiedlicher Garne durch 1 Faden ersetzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.12.2023 - 15:47

country flag Nadja wrote:

Hallo 😊 Ich habe eine Frage...wie komme ich auf die 380 maschen bei den raglanzunahmen. Egal wie ich es rechne ich komme auf weniger Maschen ! Hoffe ihr könnt mir schnell helfen ✌🏻 LG

14.12.2023 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nadja, n XXL beginnen Sie mit 104 Maschen, dann werden 6 Maschen in jeder Ärmel zugenommen (12 M insgesamt) + 33 Mal 8 Maschen für den Raglan (264 M insgesamt) = 104+12+264=380 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.12.2023 - 16:07

country flag Simone wrote:

Buongiorno. Posso usare per il modello Deep Woods 2 capi di Drops Alpaca invece di 1 Drops Alpaca e 1 di Kid-Silk? Quantità e misure restano invariate?

11.12.2023 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Simone, può utilizzare 2 capi di DROPS Alpaca raddoppiando la quantità di DROPS Alpaca necessaria. Buon lavoro!

11.12.2023 - 22:26

country flag Bianca Caldirola wrote:

Buonasera, ho fatto nel primo giro gli aumenti a gettato ai lati del marcatore. Come si lavorano gli altri gettati per aumentare? Sempre prima e dopo il marcatore?

07.12.2023 - 00:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Bianca, si lavorano sempre come indicato nel paragrafo "Raglan". Buon lavoro!

09.12.2023 - 10:10