DROPS / 212 / 43

Seaside Watcher by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with lace pattern and balloon sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-251
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 24, pink

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 5.30 € /50g
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 5.30 € /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.50€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3).
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 100 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 11) = 9.09. 
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 8th and 9th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked from the right side.
Increase by making 1 yarn over on the inside of the 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row the yarn overs are purled twisted.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:.
The front and back pieces are worked separately back and forth with circular needle. Stiches are cast off for the armholes and neck and each shoulder is finished separately. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle. The neck is worked after the garment has been sewn together.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 88-94-100-106-115-124 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the rib measures 5 cm, knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 11-11-11-11-12-11 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 77-83-89-95-103-113 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the piece.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm from the cast-on edge, cast off 4-4-4-5-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 69-75-81-85-91-101 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm, place the middle 37-37-39-39-41-41 stitches on a thread for the neck, on the next row from the right side, and each shoulder is finished separately = 16-19-21-23-25-30 stitches on each shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Cast off on every row from the neck (i.e. at the beginning of each row from the wrong side) as follows:
Cast off 1 stitch 2 times = 14-17-19-21-23-28 stitches.
Cast off with knit from the right side when the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the cast-on edge.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as for the right shoulder but when casting off for the neck, cast off at the beginning of each row from the right side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 87-93-99-105-114-123 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the rib measures 5 cm, knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 10-10-10-10-11-10 stitches evenly spaced = 77-83-89-95-103-113 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Then continue with pattern as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-3-6-9-9-14 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 11 stitches), A.2 (= 10 stitches), A.3 (= 33-33-33-33-41-41 stitches), A.2 over 10 stitches, A.1 over 11 stitches, 0-3-6-9-9-14 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm from the cast-on edge, decrease 4-4-4-5-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 69-75-81-85-91-101 stitches.
Continue with the pattern as before with the outermost stitch on each side worked in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 38-39-41-42-43-44 cm, (finish neatly in relation to the pattern), place the middle 33-33-33-33-41-41 stitches on a thread for the neck on the next row from the right side and each shoulder is finished separately = 18-21-24-26-25-30 stitches on each shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Continue with stocking stitch, A.1 and A.2 as before and the outermost stitch on each side worked in garter stitch. Cast off on each row from the neck (i.e. the beginning of each row from the right side) as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1-1-1-1-0-0 time, then 1 stitch 2-2-3-3-2-2 times = 14-17-19-21-23-28 stitches. In sizes XS-S-M-L stop working pattern A.2; continue with purl over purl and stocking stitch over the other stitches. In sizes XL-XXL continue the pattern as before. The outermost stitch on each side is worked in garter stitch.
Cast off with knit from the right side when the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the cast-on edge.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as for the right shoulder but when casting off stitches for the neck, cast off at the beginning of each row from the wrong side.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 35-35-38-38-41-41 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Then work as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 5 cm, knit 1 row from the right side and increase as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 4-3-4-4-6-5, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5-4-5-5-7-6 stitches left, knit 4-3-4-4-6-5 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 60-62-66-66-68-70 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Continue with pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 24-25-27-27-28-29 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 over the next 10 stitches, 24-25-27-27-28-29 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat A.2 in height.
When the sleeve measures 10 cm, increase 0-0-0-1-1-1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8 cm a total of 0-0-0-2-2-3 times = 60-62-66-70-72-76 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 47-47-47-46-44-42 cm from the cast-on edge, insert 1 marker inside the 1 edge stitch at the beginning of the row – it marks the bottom of the armhole. Work until the sleeve measures 50-50-50-49-48-46 cm.
Cast off – read CASTING-OFF TIP!
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew the sleeve seams but leave a split of 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm at the top (i.e. from the marker).
Sew the split to the bottom of the armhole and then sew the sleeves into the body.
Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Start on the one shoulder and knit up 75 to 96 stitches around the neck (number of stitches must be divisible by 3) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air.
Make sure the neck is neither tight nor loose in relation to the neck-line.
Work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch
= work 3 stitches in the same stitch as follows: knit the stitch but do not slip it from the needle, make 1 yarn over and knit 1 in the same stitch


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Christina 02.08.2020 - 08:39:

Hei kan dere legge ut hjelpevideo som tar for seg hvert tegn i diagrammaet, så det blir demonstrert hvordan vært tegn skal strikkes? Det ville være god hjelp! For det andre dere har lagt ut er desverre ikke nok hjelp. Håper raskt svar tilbake😊

DROPS Design 04.08.2020 kl. 10:35:

Hej Christina, det er samme teknikker som går igen, prøv at få hjælp hos din lokale DROPS butik, så er vi sikker på at du kan strikke alle fine hulmønstre fremover. Vi har jo masser af videoer som indeholder disse tegn og som viser hvordan man strikker efter diagram. God fornøjelse!

Celina 26.06.2020 - 07:59:

Hola tendrán un video que explique como se tejen los 3 puntos en el mismo punto, del diagrama A1. O me pueden explicar como se hace el tercero? Ya que el primero es de derecho, el segundo es una lazada, entonces el tercero se saca igual que el primero o por atrás del punto.

Marisol 27.05.2020 - 22:24:

Al comenzar el dibujo talla “s” con 83 puntos , Como pueden no sobrar puntos, si el dibujo son : 11+10+33+10+11+ 2 de orilló son 77 puntos?, que hago mal? Me sobran 6 Gracias por todo

Barbro 04.05.2020 - 15:25:

Det står att man ska sticka upp 75-96 maskor runt halsen till halskant. Men jag har ju redan 70 maskor på tråd på fram/bakstycket. Det blir ju bara 5 maskor extra, det kan ju inte stämma. Jag stickar storlek S. Eller ska jag sticka ihop maskor av dem jag har på tråd så det blir 75 maskor totalt?

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 10:19:

Hej Barbro om du stickar upp fler maskor till halskant, så kan du minska jämnt fördelat till önskat halsringning på första varvet. Lycka till :)

Martina Schmidt 13.04.2020 - 11:08:

Hallo Stimmen die cm Angaben des Vorderteils xxl? Nach 35 cm die Ärmel,ok. Aber nach 44 cm die Halsausschnitt? Am Diagramm ist der Pullover 58 cm lang?

DROPS Design 15.04.2020 kl. 11:25:

Liebe Frau Schmidt, die Angaben stimmen, aber gerne können Sie einpaar mehr cm in der Höhe stricken, wenn Sie die Halsausschnitt so weit möchten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Abbie 12.04.2020 - 23:02:

I am quite a beginner so this might be a silly question ... but how can the front and back both be some with circular needles, because if they are both circular how do you attach them??

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 06:23:

Dear Abbie, the sweater is knitted in pieces wich are sewn together at the end. We are using circulars because the high number of stitches fit better on them, and also they are easier to move around. happy Knitting!

Torunn Maurseth 01.04.2020 - 08:39:

Det må da være noe som mangler i tegnforklaringen i dette mønsteret ?

DROPS Design 01.04.2020 kl. 09:27:

Hej Torunn, Hjælp os gerne med at beskrive hvad der mangler, så skal vi fikse det så hurtigt som muligt :)

Susanne 30.03.2020 - 15:20:

Ska jag BÖRJA med TVÅ räta innan resåren ? Visst ska kanterna vara lika? Och baksidan avslutas med TRE maskor???? Det gäller xl

DROPS Design 31.03.2020 kl. 07:42:

Hej Är det resåren på bakstycket du ska börja med? Resåren är 2 avigmaskor och 1 rätmaska (med kantmaskor i rätstickning) både på framstycket och bakstycket. Mvh DROPS Design

Maminko 01.03.2020 - 16:28:

Très joli tricot, qui va entrer en concurrence avec le modèle Berry Diamond sur lequel j'avais flashé. Je ne ferai certes pas les manches aussi larges, il y a trop de risques de s'accrocher partout, dans les poignées de portes, par exemple.

Caroline 24.02.2020 - 22:21:

Dans le diagramme A1 il y a une maille que l'on doit tricoter 3fois comme ceci: 1m end+1jeté+1m end, cela signifie que l'on doit refaire cet ensemble (1m end+1jeté+1m end) 3 fois ou que l'on doit juste faire 1fois l'ensemble (m end + jeté + m end)? Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 25.02.2020 kl. 09:32:

Bonjour Caroline, vous ne le faites qu'une seule fois, ainsi vous avez 3 mailles tricotées dans 1 seule maille (= 3 mailles au lieu d'1 seule) - ces 2 augmentations sont compensées par la diminution de part et d'autre de cette augmentation. Bon tricot!

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