Moraine by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Snow. Piece is knitted with English rib and high collar. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 205-29
DROPS design: Pattern ee-673
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-112-118-128-140-152 cm = 43 3/8”-44”-46 1/2”-50 3/8”-55”-59 3/4”
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g color 84, peacock blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
7 stitches in width and 18 rows vertically with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 12 mm = US 17: Length 60 and 80 cm = 24” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 1.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

ENGLISH RIB (back and forth):
ROW 1 (= right side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 together, work 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit yarn over and slipped stitch together *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain, finish with 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3 (= right side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit yarn over and slipped stitch together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, work from *-* until 1 yarn over and 2 stitches remain, knit yarn over and slipped stitch together and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
All increases are done on 3rd row in the pattern (= from right side).
Increase alternately in each side of sleeve. I.e. in stitch after edge stitch on beginning of row and in stitch before edge stitch at the end of row.
Work 3 stitches in stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit yarn over and stitch together but wait to slip stitch and yarn over off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle, knit stitch and yarn over together 1 more time = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).
Then work the new stitches in English rib pattern but on first row (from wrong side) there are no English rib stitch between the increased stitches. Therefore work stitch to be worked together with yarn over without yarn over.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work sweater back and forth in several parts and sew together when finished. Work collar in the round on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 55-61-64-70-76-82 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side) on circular needle size 12 mm = US 17 with Snow. Work in ENGLISH RIB - read explanation above. When first row has been worked, 18-20-21-23-25-27 stitches have been decreased = 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches on row. Then continue with 2nd and 3rd row in English rib. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 40-41-43-43-44-45 cm = 15 3/4”-16 1/8”-17”-17”-17 1/4”-17 3/4”, insert a marker thread in each side (marks armhole). Continue until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4", adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side. Work the first 14-16-16-18-20-22 stitches (= shoulder), bind off the next 9-9-11-11-11-11 stitches but to avoid a tight bind-off edge bind off yarn overs as stitches, work the remaining 14-16-16-18-20-22 stitches (= shoulder). Then finish each shoulder separately. Work English rib as before but now work 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck. Continue like this until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2". Bind off. To avoid a tight bind-off edge bind off yarn overs as stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 55-61-64-70-76-82 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side) on circular needle size 12 mm = US 17 with Snow. Work English rib the same way as on back piece. When first row has been worked, 18-20-21-23-25-27 stitches have been decreased = 37-41-43-47-51-55 stitches on row. Then continue with 2nd and 3rd row in English rib. When piece measures 40-41-43-43-44-45 cm = 15 3/4”-16 1/8”-17”-17”-17 1/4”-17 3/4”, insert a marker thread in each side (marks armhole). Continue until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4", adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side. Work the first 14-16-16-18-20-22 stitches (= shoulder), work the next 9-9-11-11-11-11 stitches before slipping them on a stitch holder for neck and work the remaining 14-16-16-18-20-22 stitches(= shoulder). Then finish each shoulder separately. Work English rib as before but now work 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck. Continue like this until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2". Bind off. To avoid a tight bind-off edge bind off yarn overs as stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 40-40-40-43-43-46 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side) on circular needle size 12 mm = US 17 with Snow. Work English rib. When first row has been worked, 13-13-13-14-14-15 stitches have been decreased = 27-27-27-29-29-31 stitches. Then continue with 2nd and 3rd row in English rib. When piece measures 9 cm = 3 1/2”, adjust so that next row is worked from right side, increase 2 stitches in first stitch after edge stitch in garter stitch at the beginning of row (seen from right side) - read INCREASE TIP = 29-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Continue in the different sizes as explained below.

Size S:
Increase in size S is now done. Continue from All sizes below.

Size M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue increase on every other side of piece approx. every 15.-15.-15.-13.-13 cm = 6”-6”-6”-5 1/8”-5 1/8” 2-2-2-3-3 times (= 4-4-4-6-6 stitches increased in total) = 31-31-33-35-37 stitches on needle.

All sizes:
Continue with English rib until sleeve measures 48-46-46-44-42-40 cm = 19”-18”-18”-17 1/4”-16 1/2”-15 3/4”. Bind off. To avoid a tight bind-off edge bind off yarn overs as stitches. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge.
Sew sleeves in body between the 2 marker threads inserted in the sides for armholes. Sew inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside bind-off edge on sleeves. Sew seam under sleeves and then down the side seam.

NECK:
Work collar in the round on circular needle. Pick up 36-44 stitches from right side around the neck (including the 9-9-11-11-11-11 stitches from stitch holder) on circular needle size 12 mm = US 17. Work English rib in the round, adjust so that English rib pattern fits over the 9-9-11-11-11-11 stitches put on stitch holder for neck:
ROUND 1: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 1 (over the 9-9-11-11-11-11 stitches from stitch holder knit yarn over and slipped stitch together) *, repeat from *-* the rest of round.
ROUND 2: * Purl together yarn over and slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, repeat from *-* the rest of round.
ROUND 3: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit together yarn over and slipped stitch *, repeat from *-* the rest of round.
Repeat row 2 and 3 until piece measures approx. 16 cm = 6 1/4”. Bind off. To avoid a tight bind-off edge bind off yarn overs as stitches (bind off yarn overs by purling and stitches by knitting). Cut and fasten the yarn.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Manon wrote:

Bonjour, du coup si je tricote les 9 mailles en attente comme avant, il faut que je regarde bien avec le 1er tour que ça ne me gêne pas car lors de ce dernier on tricoté plus 2 mailles ensemble mais seulement une.

05.08.2023 - 13:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, lorsque vous aviez mis les mailles en attente, vous deviez avoir aussi vos mailles glissées avec des jetés et les mailles sans jeté, tricotez le 1er tour comme indiqué sous le col en veillant à bien tricoter les mailles en attente (1 jeté, glissez 1 m à l'env, tricotez ensemble à l'endroit le jeté et la maille glissée). Dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment tricoter des côtes anglaises en rond, peut-être que cette vidéo pourra vous aider. Bon tricot!

07.08.2023 - 09:41

country flag Manon wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai encore une question sur l'encolure. Au niveau des 9 mailles en attente comment faire les cotes anglaises ? Par quoi faut-il commencer ? Merci

31.07.2023 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, ces 9 mailles en côtes anglaises doivent être tricotées comme avant, autrement dit, tout dépend de comment vous devez tricoter la première de ces 9 mailles, calculez comment commencer le 1er tour pour que les côtes anglaises continuent sans transition. Bon tricot!

01.08.2023 - 08:59

country flag Manon wrote:

Au niveau de l'encolure/col, le premier tour commence avant ou après les 9 mailles du devant ? Merci

30.07.2023 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, commencez à relever les mailles du col soit au milieu dos, soit au niveau de l'une des deux épaules. Bon tricot!

31.07.2023 - 11:27

country flag Manon wrote:

Bonjour, Combien de mailles faut-il relever au niveau du col pour une taille S ? Merci

30.07.2023 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, vous relevez environ 27 mailles autour de l'encolure et tricotez les 9 mailles du devant en attente = vous devez avoir environ 36 mailles (ajustez en fonction de votre tension si besoin, mais gardez bien un nombre pair de mailles). Bon tricot!

31.07.2023 - 11:26

country flag Tascha Andersen wrote:

Hej.. Hvor slår jeg om 1 gang i omgang 1 ?? Før de ni masker på tråden eller efter ????? Hilsen Tascha

04.04.2022 - 19:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tascha, du kan gøre det at du starter med de 9 masker foran "som du kender" og så fortsætter du patenten hele vejen rundt som du har gjort igennem hele blusen.

05.04.2022 - 08:22

country flag Tascha Andersen wrote:

Hej.. Kan ikke få patenten til at passe i halsen efter udtagning af masker. Har nu reduceret maskeantallet til 27 m (str S) som i skrev + de 9 = 36 men ved omgang 3 går det galt igen .. Starter jeg forkert eller ?? Hvor skal der startes ? Efter eller før de ni masker på tråden , altså hvor slår jeg om og tar løst af 1 gang i omgang 1 ?? Hilsen Tascha

15.03.2022 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tascha, Hvis du har taget ud/ind over de midterste masker i halsen, vil patenten ikke gå op som på billedet. Enten tager du ikke ud over de midterste masker eller så laver du en synlig overgang, så patenten i halsen bliver uafhængig af forstykket. God fornøjelse!

30.03.2022 - 14:23

country flag Tascha Andersen wrote:

Jeg kan simpelthen ikke få patentmønsteret til at passe når jeg har taget de 36 masker ud som jeg skal bruge til min str S oppe i halsen. Det passer fint hen over de 9 masker fra tråden foran som er lagt oven i de 36 som så gir 45 men efter de 9 masker går det heeelt galt 😩 Hvad gør jeg forkert ? Har prøvet at starte FØR de 9 masker og EFTER. Hvor starter jeg patenten henne på min rundpind ? Hilsen Tascha

08.03.2022 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tascha. Det skal strikkes opp 36 masker inkludert de 9 maskene fra tråden (ikke + de 9 maskene fra tråden). Så når du har strikkes de 9 maskene fra tråden har du 27 masker det skal strikkes opp, 9+27=36 masker rundt halsen. mvh DROPS Design

14.03.2022 - 10:17

country flag Helle Madum wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få maskeantallet til at passe efter 1 række helt i starten af opskriften... Hvordan gør jeg, har læst det tyske svar, I har givet samme spørgsmål... Hvordan skal rækken strikkes, så der bliver taget ind fra 76 masker til 55 masker... Har aldrig før har svært ved jeres opskrifter.

03.02.2022 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mette. Strikker du str. XXL eller XXXL? Om du strikker str. XXL legger du opp 76 masker og feller 25 masker på 1. pinne skal du ha 51 masker, mens i str. XXXL legger du opp 82 masker og feller 27 masker = 55 masker. Husk når du strikker 1. pinne på Helpatent skal ikke kastet til patentmasken (masken du løfter løst av pinnen som om den skulle strikkes vrang) telles som en egen maske (kastet tilhører patentmasken). mvh DROPS Design

07.02.2022 - 11:59

country flag Nina Visang wrote:

Ich verstehe die Anleitung für den Kragen leider nicht. Wo beginnt der Kragen? An der Seite der 11 stillgelegten Machen? Ich habe riesige Löcher bei den neu aufgenommenen Maschen und das Muster passt irgendwie nicht. Auch das Stricken mit der Rundnadel geht überhaupt nicht. Das muss doch mit einem Nadelspiel gemacht werden.Das sieht total blöd aus!

14.10.2021 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Visang, Sie können bei einer Schulter oder hinten in der Mitte von Halsausschnitt/Rückenteil anfangen, Maschenanzahl passen Sie so an, daß das Muster wie zuvor über die mittleren 11 Maschen gestrickt wird. Um Löcher zu vermeiden, können Sie ein Extra Faden zwischen 2 Maschen auffasssen und diese Faden verschränkt mit der nächsten Maschen stricken. Mit der 80 Nadel können Sie Magic Loop stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.10.2021 - 07:37

country flag Nina Visang wrote:

Meine Maschenprobe passt leider nicht. Bei Nadel 12 passt die Breite aber die Länge ist zuviel. Bei Nadel 10 bin ich zu schmal und die Länge ist auch zuviel!

18.09.2021 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Visang, sollten Sie die richtige Breite hier haben, dann können Sie die Anleitung so folgen, bei den Erklärungen wird es in der Höhe in cm (und nicht in Reihen) gemessen, beachten Sie nur, die benötige Garnmenge unterschiedlich sein könnte (hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.09.2021 - 10:47

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