The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Mossy Twine / DROPS 207-37
Change language:
English (UK/cm)#mossytwinesweater
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-666
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit | |
= purl | |
= purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) | |
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 1 from cable needle | |
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 1, knit 3 from cable needle | |
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, purl 1 from cable needle | |
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, purl 1, knit 3 from cable needle | |
= Bobble – work as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 in same stitch (= 5 stitches), turn the piece. Work 3 rows in stocking stitch over these 5 stitches, turn and knit 5 together = 1 stitch left. | |
= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle | |
= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Mossy Twine |
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Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Snow. The piece is worked with cables and bobbles. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 207-37 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 37 stitches), and divide by number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 5.3. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch. When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. RAGLAN: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 8 stitches decreased on round) as follows: Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread on front and back pieces: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased). Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread on front and back pieces: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1. Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread on the sleeve; slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased). Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread on the sleeve: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased). When you have decreased 12-14-15-16-19-21 times continue to decrease as before on the sleeves, and decrease 2 stitches on each side of the front piece and back piece (= 12 stitches decreased on the round) as follows: Decrease 2 stitches after the marker thread on the front piece and back piece: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease 2 stitches before the marker thread on the front piece and back piece: Knit until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 1. INCREASE TIP (for under sleeve): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes. Then the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle before they are placed on the same circular needle as the body. Yoke and neck are then worked to finish. BODY: Cast on 138-150-162-174-186-198 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and Eskimo. Knit 1 round then work as follows: * Purl 2, (knit 3, purl 3) over de first/next 30-36-42-48-54-60 stitches, knit 3, purl 2, work A.1 over the next 32 stitches, * work from *-* 1 more time on the round. Continue in the round like this until A.1 has been completed in height (you decrease 3 stitches on the last row in A.1; i.e. 6 stitches on the round) = 132-144-156-168-180-192 stitches. Change to circular needle size 9 mm and work the next round as follows: * Knit the first 37-43-49-55-61-67 stitches and decrease at the same time 7-9-11-11-11-11 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, work A.2 over A.1 *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round = 118-126-134-146-158-170 stitches. There are now 30-34-38-44-50-56 knitted stitches on each side between A.2 on the front and back pieces. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! A.2 is repeated in height to finished length. When the piece measures 27-27-27-27-27-26 cm, work the next round as follows: Knit the first 12-14-16-19-22-25 stitches, cast off the next 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 53-57-61-67-73-79 stitches, cast off 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the remaining stitches on the round. Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side. SLEEVE: Cast on 24-24-24-30-30-30 stitches with double pointed needles size 8 mm and Eskimo. Knit 1 round then work rib, (knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-2-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 22-22-24-28-28-30 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 8-10-9-10-10-7 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve – remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8th-5th-5th-5th-3rd-3rd round a total of 6-8-8-7-10-11 times = 34-38-40-42-48-52 stitches. When the piece measures 39-37-36-34-32-31 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread every 2nd round a total of 4 times = 42-46-48-50-56-60 stitches. When the sleeve measures a total of 45-43-42-40-38-36 cm, cast off 6 stitches under the sleeve (= 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 36-40-42-44-50-54 stitches. Lay the sleeve to one side and work 1 more sleeve in the same way. YOKE: Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where stitches were cast off for the armholes = 178-194-206-222-246-266 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in every transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads). Start in the transition between back piece and left sleeve. Continue in the round with pattern A.2 and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches on the front/back pieces and sleeves until piece measures 2-1-2-3-0-0 cm from the beginning of yoke. On the next round begin decreasing to RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease like this (i.e.1 stitch on each side of the marker threads = 8 stitches decreased on the round) every 2nd round a total of 12-14-15-16-19-21 times = 82-82-86-94-94-98 stitches. Now continue to decrease 1 stitch on sleeves, but 2 stitches on the front and back pieces (= 12 stitches decreased on the round) every 2nd round 2 times = 58-58-62-70-70-74 stitches. Knit 1 round where you decrease 14-12-14-18-16-18 stitches evenly spaced = 44-46-48-52-54-56 stitches. The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down. NECK: Change to short circular needle size 8 mm and knit 1 round where you increase 4-2-6-2-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches. Work rib, (knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find 29 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. Have you finished this pattern? |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11644 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (32)
Patricia Bouhier wrote:
Je souhaite faire ce modèle mais pas en aiguille circulaire
02.11.2024 - 14:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Bouhier, cette leçon vous donnera quelques informations pour savoir comment adapter un modèle tricoté en rond sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!
04.11.2024 - 08:16Mireille wrote:
Merci beaucoup pour vos compléments d'information et d'explication ! Elles m'ont aidé et j'ai pu terminé sereinement ce beau pull en un temps vraiment court. Grand merci à vous. Belle journée. MC
18.03.2024 - 16:47Mireille wrote:
Bonsoir, J'ai une question au sujet des emmanchures. Comment sont gérées les trous des emmanchures quand on rajoute les manches ? J'ai bien regardé la vidéo "Comment tricoter les manches, en rond, avec le dos et le devant", j'ai compris comment ajouter les mailles des manches après la première partie du dos ou devant. La fin de la vidéo montre un trou à la base de l'emmanchure. Que faut-il faire ensuite pour ce trou ? Merci à vous.
12.03.2024 - 21:02DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mireille, on a effectivement un trou sous la manche, et ce trou va être fermé à la fin par une couture - nous montrons 2 façons de fermer ce trou dans cette vidéo. Bon tricot!
13.03.2024 - 07:57Mireille wrote:
Merci pour vos explications claires ! Effectivement, ça va mieux en déroulant le diagramme dans le bon sens !!! Merci à vous !
12.03.2024 - 20:45Mireille wrote:
Re-bonjour, Une précision par rapport à la description du rendu que je viens de faire sur ce modèle DROPS 207-37, quand je regarde la partie torsades, la grande torsade de côté, pour le côté gauche, part vers la droite et celle de droite part vers la gauche... Est-ce dû à la lecture de la grille A2 qui doit se faire de droite vers la gauche et non de gauche à droite comme je l'ai fait ? Merci à vous.
10.03.2024 - 21:06DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mireille, les torsades doivent être comme sur la photo, lisez bien le diagramme de droite à gauche pour croiser les mailles dans le bon sens, au milieu, les mailles endroit vont s'écarter pour que l'on puisse tricoter les mailles du milieu au point de riz, puis on va les resserrer de nouveau via les torsades. Bon tricot!
11.03.2024 - 09:01Mireille wrote:
Bonjour, Je rencontre un problème en tricotant ce pull. Je viens de finir le diagramme A2 et quand je regarde la photo, je n'obtiens pas du tout la même chose : les torsades de côté partent vers la gauche au lieu de la droite et au milieu, la partie sinueuse (mailles endroits) ne donne pas du tout cela. J'ai lu le diagramme de gauche à droite... J'ai l'impression que le diagramme est à lire de droite à gauche du fait qu'on tricote en rond. Est-ce cela ? Merci à vous.
10.03.2024 - 20:59DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mireille, effectivement, les diagrammes se lisent de bas en haut et de gauche à droite sur l'endroit (et donc ici on va lire tous les tours de la droite vers la gauche) - retrouvez plus d'infos sur les diagrammes ici. Bon tricot!
11.03.2024 - 08:59Gun Åström wrote:
Jag har lagt upp 138 maskor på fram-och bakstycke. På andra varvet skall jag sticka resår 2 avigmaskor, (3 rätmaskor, 3 avigmaskor) över de första 30 maskorna. Jag får inte ihop det. Vad betyder parentesen?
26.05.2023 - 13:00DROPS Design answered:
Hei Gun. Jo, du har 138 masker, så strikker du * 2 avigmaskor, deretter skal du strikke 3 rätmaskor, 3 avigmaskor över de neste 30 maskorna. Du har nå strikket over 32 masker, fortsett med 3 rätmaskor, 2 avigmaskor , strikk A.1 over de neste 32 maskene *. Tilsammen har du nå strikket over 69 masker (2+32+3+2+32). Så gjentar du det som står mellom stjernene (*) og da har du strikket over 69 nye masker = 69+69=138 masker. Det som står i patentesen er det som skal gjentas over de 30 maskene. mvh DROPS Design
30.05.2023 - 08:57Catia wrote:
Ho iniziato il maglione in taglia M. Dopo aver lavorato un gomitolo ed essere arrivata a metà del primo rombo ho misurato il maglione. È enorme: ci sono almeno 20 maglie sui fianchi in più del dovuto. Ho confrontato anche i vs altri maglioni, che con i Ferri n 9 hanno una circonferenza sui fianchi di ca. 107 maglie e non 130. Peccato perché il modello è molto bello e mi piaceva riprodurlo.
23.01.2023 - 22:57DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Catia, se preferisce può adattare la lavorazione alla sua vestibilità riducendo il numero di maglie. Buon lavoro!
25.01.2023 - 22:18Isabelle wrote:
Je trouve que ce modèle taille trop large. De plus la laine Snow se détend beaucoup au lavage ; le pull s’est élargi de 10 cm lors du premier lavage ce qui le rend inutilisable.
06.12.2022 - 08:19DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, pensez à toujours bien vérifier vos mesures d'après le schéma et à bien conserver la bonne tension. Vous trouverez ici quelques conseils pour l'entretien des laines en général, n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin. Bon tricot!
06.12.2022 - 11:22Marina wrote:
Buongiorno, A1 e A2 sono solo sul davanti? Grazie
17.02.2022 - 12:50DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Marina, i diagrammi vengono lavorati 2 volte sul giro. Buon lavoro!
22.02.2022 - 22:44