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English (UK/cm)#sjoebrissweater
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-154
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit | |
= purl |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sjøbris |
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Knitted jumper for men in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with raglan, stripes and textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 224-1 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide by number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 12. In this example, decrease by knitting together each 11th and 12th stitch. When increasing, make 1 yarn over after each 12th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. RAGLAN: Increase to raglan by making 1 yarn over on each side of A.1; the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round, then worked into A.2. STRIPES: The neck and the first 2 cm on the yoke are worked with white before starting the stripes. Then work alternately 3½-3½-3½-3-3-3½ cm with jeans blue and 5 cm with white until you have worked 6-6-6-7-7-7 jeans blue stripes on the yoke/body and 7-7-7-7-7-7 jeans blue stripes on the yoke/sleeves. Then finish the pieces with white. DECREASE TIP (sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-stitch as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together, knit 1 (marker-stitch), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. CASTING-OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle. NECK: Cast on 96-100-104-112-120-124 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and white DROPS Sky. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm (the neck is later folded double and sewn down to the wrong side). Knit 1 round where you decrease 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP in explanations above = 88-92-96-100-108-112 stitches. YOKE: Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Read STRIPES before continuing. Insert 1 marker thread on this round; it will be used when measuring the yoke. In addition insert 8 markers before continuing, which will be used when increasing to raglan: Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= between back piece and sleeve), count 5 stitches and insert 1 marker here, count 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches and insert 1 marker here (= sleeve), count 5 stitches and insert 1 marker here, count 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches and insert 1 marker here (= front piece), count 5 stitches and insert 1 marker here, count 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches and insert 1 marker here (= sleeve), count 5 stitches and insert 1 marker here. There are 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches left between the last and the first marker (= back piece). Now work pattern and increase to RAGLAN – read description above, as follows: Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, 1 yarn over, work A.2 over the next 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches, 1 yarn over, work A.2 over the next 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches (= front piece), 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches, 1 yarn over, work A.2 over the next 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches, 1 yarn over, work A.2 over the next 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches (= back piece), 1 yarn over. You have increased 8 stitches on the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue with the pattern, stripes and increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 24-28-30-32-34-40 times = 280-316-336-356-380-432 stitches. Continue with stripes and pattern, but without further increases, until the piece measures 22-23-25-26-28-31 cm from the marker on the neck. Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 3-2-3-5-6-6 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 59-69-73-73-77-89 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-11-11 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the next 81-89-95-105-113-127 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 59-69-73-73-77-89 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-11-11 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 78-87-92-100-107-121 stitches (= the rest of the back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 176-192-208-228-248-276 stitches. Continue the pattern and stripes as before over all stitches. When the piece measures 31-32-31-32-32-31 cm from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 36-36-40-44-48-56 stitches evenly spaced = 212-228-248-272-300-332 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm. Read CASTING-OFF TIP and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVE: Place the 59-69-73-72-77-89 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 66-76-82-82-88-100 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle stitch under the sleeve and begin the round here. Continue in the round, with stripes and pattern as before. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-2½-2-2½-2-1 cm a total of 9-13-15-14-16-21 times = 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 39-39-37-37-35-33 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 4-2-4-2-4-2 stitches evenly spaced = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm. Remember CASTING OFF TIP and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fold the neck double to the wrong side. Sew the cast-on edge to the neckline, with long, loose stitches from the wrong side (making sure the seam is invisible on the right side and that it is not tight). |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (36)
Christina Kuronen-Pettersson wrote:
Wie ist die Antwort auf meine 2. Frage ?
28.10.2024 - 10:02DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Kuronen-Pettersson, meinen Sie, wie Sie diese Raglanzunahmen stricken sollten? Wenn glatt dann rechts verschränkt, deshalb hatte ich solche Anleitungen in die vorige Antwort verlinkt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
28.10.2024 - 13:09Christina Kuronen-Pettersson wrote:
Kann man diesen Pullover auch glatt rechts stricken, also ohne Muster A1 und A2 ? Wie werden die zugenommenen Maschen bei der Raglanzunahme in der nächsten Reihe gestrickt re oder li ? Danke für die Hilfe
27.10.2024 - 18:33DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Kuronen-Pettersson, wahrscheinlich - hier finden Sie alle Pullover die von oben nach unten mit Raglanzunahmen (alle Maschenprobe) gestrickt werden - vielleicht finden Sie einen davon, der Ihnen inspirieren wird. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
28.10.2024 - 09:45Christina Kuronen-Pettersson wrote:
Es geht um den Halsausschnitt. Er ist entweder zu klein oder zu groß. ich habe es mit der Nadel 3,5 und 4 mm versucht. Können Sie mir die richtige Nadelstärke sagen. Maschenprobe habe ich gemacht,konnte ich nicht so viel mit anfangen. Vielen Dank
19.10.2024 - 18:33DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Kuronen-Pettersson, die Halsblende wird mit Nadeln Nr 3,5 gestrickt, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe mit der Nadeln Nr 4,5 stimmen, dann sollte die Halsblende richtig sein. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
21.10.2024 - 08:34Ria wrote:
Dag, in het patroon staat dat er onderaan het lijf een x aantal steken gemeerderd moet worden. Is dat niet vreemd? Meestal is onderaan een trui het aantal steken het minste. Moet je juist niet minderen onderaan de trui?
10.10.2024 - 21:52DROPS Design answered:
Dag Ria,
Dit meerderen wordt bewust gedaan om te voorkomen dat de boord het werk gaat samen trekken.
19.10.2024 - 11:28Phuong Anh wrote:
If increased 1 yo on each side of A1. So why you said increased 8sts on the round? That was supposed to be 16sts? Im so confused
02.10.2024 - 17:41DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Anh, you work A.1 on each raglan line, ie a total of.4 times in the round, and to increase for raglan you will increase on each side of A.1 - so that you will increase a total of 8 stitches on each round: 1 stitch at the beg of front/sleeve/back/sleeve after A.1 + 1 stitch at the end of front/sleeve/back/sleeve before next A.1. Happy knitting!
03.10.2024 - 09:06Phuong Anh wrote:
I think you should write more clearly on increased raglan part. It was like 'yo,PM,yo'. You make me so confused cuz i do like just yo,PM and move to next diagram. I've just increased on side, I was make for 12cm to realize that was a mistakes :) god dame
02.10.2024 - 11:00Phuong Anh wrote:
I think you should write more clearly on increased raglan part. It was like 'yo,PM,yo'. You make me so confused cuz i do like just yo,PM and move to next diagram. I've just increased on side, I was make for 12cm to realize that was a mistakes :) god dame
02.10.2024 - 07:24Paul Goldberg wrote:
I see that there are other comments about the pattern A1 and A2, but it is not clear to me how exactly the pattern works. Is A1 the body and A2 for the sleeves? Do they go on the same row? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
29.08.2024 - 12:22DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Goldberg, diagram A.1 is for raglan lines and diagram A.2 is for sleeves and body, the number of sts is uneven so that pattern starts and ends the same (to make it symmetrical). Happy knitting!
30.08.2024 - 07:54Laura wrote:
Hi, when i’m doing the raglan increases, should my marker go before or after yarn overs? Thank you!
06.04.2024 - 23:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Laura, you should do the yarnovers before and after the A.1 pattern. The best would be to keep the markers between the yarnovers and the A.1 pattern. Happy Knitting!
07.04.2024 - 01:20Marin wrote:
Modèle pull homme:Sjôbris N'y a t-il pas une erreur au niveau de la répartition des mailles pour l'empiècement pour le dos le devant et les manches . Les manches ne se trouvent pas au bon endroit. Merci. Bien cordialement
25.03.2024 - 11:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Marin, l'empiècement commence par le raglan avant la manche droite: les 5 mailles de A.1, puis on tricote la manche droite, A.1 pour le raglan, le devant, A.1 pour le raglan, la manche gauche, A.1 pour le raglan et le dos. Ou bien ai-je mal compris votre question?
02.04.2024 - 09:29