Sjøbris by DROPS Design
Knitted jumper for men in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with raglan, stripes and textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 01, white
100-150-150-150-150-150 g colour 12, jeans blue
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 - 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 - 80 cm for rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM for rib.
If you work Magic Loop, you will not need double pointed needles.
KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
Remember, needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Sky 74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool |
from 4.90 £ /50g | Order | ||||||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide by number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 12. In this example, decrease by knitting together each 11th and 12th stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after each 12th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan by making 1 yarn over on each side of A.1; the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round, then worked into A.2.
STRIPES:
The neck and the first 2 cm on the yoke are worked with white before starting the stripes. Then work alternately 3½-3½-3½-3-3-3½ cm with jeans blue and 5 cm with white until you have worked 6-6-6-7-7-7 jeans blue stripes on the yoke/body and 7-7-7-7-7-7 jeans blue stripes on the yoke/sleeves. Then finish the pieces with white.
DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-stitch as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together, knit 1 (marker-stitch), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
NECK:
Cast on 96-100-104-112-120-124 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and white DROPS Sky. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm (the neck is later folded double and sewn down to the wrong side).
Knit 1 round where you decrease 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP in explanations above = 88-92-96-100-108-112 stitches.
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Read STRIPES before continuing.
Insert 1 marker thread on this round; it will be used when measuring the yoke.
In addition insert 8 markers before continuing, which will be used when increasing to raglan:
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= between back piece and sleeve), count 5 stitches and insert 1 marker here, count 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches and insert 1 marker here (= sleeve), count 5 stitches and insert 1 marker here, count 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches and insert 1 marker here (= front piece), count 5 stitches and insert 1 marker here, count 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches and insert 1 marker here (= sleeve), count 5 stitches and insert 1 marker here. There are 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches left between the last and the first marker (= back piece).
Now work pattern and increase to RAGLAN – read description above, as follows:
Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, 1 yarn over, work A.2 over the next 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches, 1 yarn over, work A.2 over the next 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches (= front piece), 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches, 1 yarn over, work A.2 over the next 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches, 1 yarn over, work A.2 over the next 27-29-29-31-33-35 stitches (= back piece), 1 yarn over. You have increased 8 stitches on the round.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue with the pattern, stripes and increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 24-28-30-32-34-40 times = 280-316-336-356-380-432 stitches.
Continue with stripes and pattern, but without further increases, until the piece measures 22-23-25-26-28-31 cm from the marker on the neck.
Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 3-2-3-5-6-6 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 59-69-73-73-77-89 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-11-11 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the next 81-89-95-105-113-127 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 59-69-73-73-77-89 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-11-11 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 78-87-92-100-107-121 stitches (= the rest of the back piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 176-192-208-228-248-276 stitches. Continue the pattern and stripes as before over all stitches.
When the piece measures 31-32-31-32-32-31 cm from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 45-36-40-44-48-56 stitches evenly spaced = 212-228-248-272-300-332 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm.
Read CASTING-OFF TIP and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 59-69-73-72-77-89 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 66-76-82-82-88-100 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle stitch under the sleeve and begin the round here. Continue in the round, with stripes and pattern as before.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-2½-2-2½-2-1 cm a total of 9-13-15-14-16-21 times = 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 39-39-37-37-35-33 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke).
Knit 1 round where you increase 4-2-4-2-4-2 stitches evenly spaced = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm.
Remember CASTING OFF TIP and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the wrong side. Sew the cast-on edge to the neckline, with long, loose stitches from the wrong side (making sure the seam is invisible on the right side and that it is not tight).
Diagram
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= knit |
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= purl |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 224-1) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (5)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 275 catalogues and 10155 patterns - 10147 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hvor høj er modellen, og hvilken størrelse har han på?
DROPS Design
18.08.2021 kl. 10:53:
Hei Emilie. Modellen har på seg str. M og er litt over 180 cm høy. Kroppsfasong er noe forskjellige fra mennesker til mennesker, så for å finne den beste størrelsen så ta mål av en genser som passer den som skal ha genseren, og sammenlign med målene i målskissen for å finne beste passform. mvh DROPS designJeg forsto hva jeg hadde gjort feil etter at jeg leste svaret til Kristin ..Jeg fikk også for mange masker først .
Jeg forstår ikke raglandsfellingen. Det står at en skal lage kast etter alle 8 merkene i arbeidet , men også kast etter begge sidene på mønster A1 for ragland . Hvordan skal det strikkes inn i mønster A 2 ? og hvor mange kast skal det være på en runde ? mvh Hilde
DROPS Design
05.08.2021 kl. 14:29:
Hej Hilde, de 8 udtagninger på en raglan-omgang sker på hver side af A1 hele vejen rundt. God fornøjelse!Hei, nå har jeg begynt igjen på økningen. Jeg har økt en omgang med kast, jeg har strikket mønster A1 5 masker, nå har jeg kommet til kastet. Skal det alltid strikkes vridd rett? Så starter jeg på mønster A2 med vrang maske?
Hei Skal det igjennom hele raglanfellingen alltid være 5 masker? Så fellingen foregår på utsiden av de fem maskene? Har fulgt oppskriften nøyaktig, men det øker med masker i raglan feltet. Tror det er feil. Vennlig hilsen Kristin Tronvold
DROPS Design
14.07.2021 kl. 10:27:
Hej Kristin, ja udtagningerne til raglan sker på hver side at de 5 raglanmasker, så de 5 masker er konstant. De nye masker strikkes ind i samme mønster som ærmer, ryg og forstykke :)