DROPS / 207 / 4

Marigold Sunshine by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked with cables, lace pattern and shawl collar. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-072
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 45, lemon

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
A.3 and A.4 (= 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches) measure approx. 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm in width.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3 and A.4). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
NOTE: Both A.3 and A.4 show 1 repeat in height, but the diagrams differ in height because each cable/lace pattern covers different numbers of rows in height.
And the smallest cable in A.3 and A.4 varies from 3 to 2 stitches. The number of stitches in the pattern can therefore vary by 1 stitch, depending on where you are in the cable.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
All decreases are made from the right side!
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 252 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 14 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 26) = 9.2. 
In this example decrease by knitting together approx. each 8th and 9th stitch together. Do not decrease on bands.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for armholes):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease for the armholes on the inside of the 6 outermost stitches towards the armholes as described below.
Decrease as follows after the 6 outermost stitches: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 5, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the 6 outermost stitches: Work until there are 8 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together, knit 5 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

INCREASE TIP-2 (for shawl collar):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase for the collar on the inside of the outermost stitch towards mid front (i.e. on the inside of the slipped stitch). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. The increased stitches are worked into A.1 as you go.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = Start from the right side and knit the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge together, then make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over (= hole).
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 2, 9, 15, 22 and 28 cm
M: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 29 cm
L: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm
XL: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26 and 31 cm
XXL: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm
XXXL: 2, 9, 15, 21, 27 and 33 cm

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the back and front pieces are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 252-276-296-328-364-396 stitches (including 7 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.1 over the first 7 stitches (= band), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with A.2 over the last 7 stitches (= band). Continue this rib for 4 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in A.1/A.2) – AT THE SAME TIME decrease 26-30-34-36-40-44 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 226-246-262-292-324-352 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker thread 64-69-73-82-90-97 stitches in from each side (= 98-108-116-128-144-158 stitches between marker threads on back piece).
Read PATTERN and work the next row from the right side as follows: 7 band stitches in A.1, work A.3 (= 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches), work stocking stitch until there are 42-42-42-49-49-49 stitches left on the row, work A.4 (= 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches) and finish with 7 band stitches in A.2. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now increase in the sides, increase for the shawl collar and decrease for the armholes as described below (increasing to shawl collar and decreasing for armholes will in some sizes occur simultaneously):
INCREASING IN SIDES:
When the piece measures 10 cm in all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm a total of 4 times on each side (= a total of 16 stitches increased).
SHAWL COLLAR:
When the piece measures approx. 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm (you should have worked a couple of rows after the last buttonhole), increase 1 stitch on each side towards mid front – read INCREASE TIP-2.
Increase for the collar like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 8-8-10-10-12-12 times (after the final increase for the collar there are 15-15-17-17-19-19 stitches on the band/collar).
ARMHOLES:
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm, cast off for the armholes on each side of the body; the next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work as before until there are 3-5-7-9-11-13 stitches left before the first marker thread, cast off 6-10-14-18-22-26 stitches for the armhole, work as before until there are 3-5-7-9-11-13 stitches left before the second marker thread, cast off 6-10-14-18-22-26 stitches for the armhole and work to end of row as before. Front and back pieces are now finished separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Continue back and forth as before with A.1 over the band/shawl collar, A.3 (= 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches) and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch in the side for the armhole – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for the armhole like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 6-7-8-11-15-17 times.
After all increases and decreases there are 67-69-72-76-80-83 stitches on the row. Continue the pattern.
When the piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm knit 1 row from the right side as before – AT THE SAME TIME on this row decrease 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches evenly over the 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches in A.3 = 59-61-64-65-69-72 stitches left. Knit 1 row from the wrong side over all stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Knit 26-26-29-29-32-32 stitches (= shawl collar) and cast off the 33-35-35-36-37-40 stitches on the shoulder. Cut the strand. Now work RIGHT COLLAR as described below.

RIGHT COLLAR:
Keep the 26-26-29-29-32-32 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm. The collar is worked in garter stitch with short rows towards the neck. Start from the wrong side and knit 1 row. Now work garter stitch back and forth as follows: * Work 1 ridge back and forth over all 26-26-29-29-32-32 stitches, work 1 ridge back and forth over the first 20-20-23-23-26-26 stitches *, work from *-* until the collar measures approx. 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm inside where shortest (measures approx. 14-14-14-14-16-16 cm outside where longest). Cast off with knit from the right side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Continue back and forth as before with stocking stitch, A.4 (= 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches) and A.2 over the band/shawl collar.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch in the side for the armhole – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for the armhole like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 6-7-8-11-15-17 times.
After all increases and decreases there are 67-69-72-76-80-83 stitches on the row. Continue the pattern.
When the piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm, work 1 row from the right side as before – AT THE SAME TIME on this row decrease 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches evenly over the 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches in A.4 = 59-61-64-65-69-72 stitches left. Knit 1 row from the wrong side over all stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Cast off 33-35-35-36-37-40 stitches for the shoulder and knit the remaining 26-26-29-29-32-32 stitches (= shawl collar). Now work LEFT COLLAR as described below.

LEFT COLLAR:
= 26-26-29-29-32-32 stitches. Start from the wrong side and work garter stitch back and forth as follows: * Work 1 ridge back and forth over all 26-26-29-29-32-32 stitches, work 1 ridge back and forth over the first 20-20-23-23-26-26 stitches *, work from *-* until the collar measures approx. 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm inside where shortest (measures approx. 14-14-14-14-16-16 cm outside where longest). Knit 1 row from the wrong side and cast off with knit from the right side.

BACK PIECE:
= 100-106-110-118-130-140 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch on each side for the armholes – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for the armholes like this every 2nd row a total of 6-7-8-11-15-17 times = 88-92-94-96-100-106 stitches.
Work until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Now cast off the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 1 stitch 2 times = 33-35-35-36-37-40 stitches. Work until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 68-72-72-76-76-80 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 8 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 12-14-12-14-12-12 stitches evenly spaced = 56-58-60-62-64-68 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid under sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when increasing mid under sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 9-9-9-9-10-10 cm from the cast-on edge, increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 3½-3-2½-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 11-13-15-18-21-22 times = 78-84-90-98-106-112 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 47-46-46-45-44-43 cm (there is 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm left to finished length; alternately, continue to desired length). NOTE; Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders and longer sleeve cap.
The next round is worked as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, cast off 6 stitches (= mid under sleeve) and work stocking stitch to end of round = 72-78-84-92-100-106 stitches left.
Now work stocking stitch back and forth and AT THE SAME TIME cast off stitches for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on both sides as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side, 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times on each side and 1 stitch 5-7-9-9-11-12 times on each side. Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-56-56 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 56-56-57-57-57-57 cm from the top down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew in the sleeves inside the 1 edge stitch.
Sew the collar together mid back (make sure the seam turns towards the wrong side when the collar is turned down). Sew the collar to the neck at the back, with the seam on the wrong side.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 11.02.2020
Correction first row in diagram A.4 size XL-XXL-XXXL

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= this square has no stitch as it was decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in diagram
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over (leaves a hole)
= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1. knit 1 from cable needle
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle
= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= knit 3, pass the first stitch over the other 2, so it lies around them
= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit






Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Christine 15.03.2020 - 19:30:

I would appreciate the cm-to-inches conversion to be made already on the schematic, instead of doing it myself. The schematic doesn't include the back. This is an unusual construction, seeing how the back looks would be helpful.

Sussi Beck 31.01.2020 - 12:48:

Er der ikke fejl i A4 str. XL-XXXL? Iflg. A4 str. S-L skal der strikkes V så den bliver omvendt i forhold til A3, men i str. XL-XXXL er den det sammen som i A3. Det kan da ikke være rigtigt?

DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 09:07:

Hej Sussi, Det ser ud som om du har ret, vi skal få diagrammet rettet. Tak for info :)

Angela 12.12.2019 - 20:01:

Thank you for the reply to my question. I worked it out for myself in the end based on the diagram which I don't think I had printed off. It is a very pretty design and it is quite distinctive.

Angela 11.12.2019 - 14:10:

Please provide more explicit instructions on the decreases of the sleeves and how many stitches should be left on the needle when finished. I've completed the body of the cardigan and it is lovely.

DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 14:38:

Dear Angela, the number of sts remaining at the end of sleeve cap will depend on your number of rows in height, measurements are here more important than number of remaining stitches, cast off first 6 sts mid under sleeve, then continue to cast off stitches at the beg of each row (both from RS and WS) as explained for your size, make sure you cast off the same number of stitches on each side, following measurements at the same time, hope it helps. Happy knitting!

Charo 13.10.2019 - 00:16:

Como se puede acceder al patrón de este modelo?

DROPS Design 13.10.2019 kl. 22:37:

Hola Charo. Este patrón será publicado en español esta semana.

Jeanne 19.08.2019 - 09:15:

Bij rugpand worden voor de hals 20 steken afgekant. Waar worden deze steken bij de voorpanden geminderd ?

DROPS Design 01.09.2019 kl. 13:48:

Dag Jeanne,

Deze minderingen zijn op de voorpanden verwerkt in de v-hals/sjaalkraag.

Jeanne 18.08.2019 - 20:48:

Ik ben nu bij het meerderen van de kraag. Worden er dan geen steken geminderd om een mooie kraag te krijgen?

DROPS Design 16.10.2019 kl. 10:03:

Dag Jeanne,

Er wordt inderdaad niet geminderd voor de hals. De kabels lopen ook recht door naar boven op de voorpanden. Er wordt dus alleen gemeerderd voor de kraag.

Maschefuermasche 16.08.2019 - 08:54:

Guten Morgen Bei der Strickschrift A.3 neunte Reihe bekomme ich mit der 4-6. Masche weniger Maschen ... Das sollte doch nicht sein? Muss ich jeweils 2 Umschläge arbeiten? Danke für die schnelle Antwort

DROPS Design 16.08.2019 kl. 09:37:

Liebe Maschefuermasche, in A.3 wird die Maschenanzhal um 1 Masche unterschiedlich sein, wegen den schmallen Zopf (am Ende A.3), dh bei der 1. und 4. Reihe im Zopf haben Sie 35-42 M in A.3, und bei der 2. und 3. Reihe im Zopf haben Sie 34-41 M in A.3. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Jeanne 14.08.2019 - 07:44:

Hoe kan ik het patroon aanpassen dat de schouder niet afhangend wordt? Is mi ook veel mooier

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 10:03:

Dag Jeanne,

Helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om patronen aan te passen naar persoonlijke wens. Eventueel kun je hulp vragen bij de winkel waar je het garen hebt gekocht.

Martina 12.08.2019 - 18:32:

Ein wirklich wunderschönes tragbares Modell, werde demnächst die Anleitung genau durcharbeiten und nachstricken. Vielen Dank an Ihr Team....tolle Arbeit..die Ihr da leistet.

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