DROPS / 207 / 7

Harvest Gold by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked with v-neck and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

Tags: cable, jumpers, v-neck,

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-050
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 16, lemon

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 3.45 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 240 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 40) = 6. 
In this example decrease by knitting each 5th and 6th stitch together.


DECREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

V-NECK:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease after A.2 as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease before A.3 as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.3, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes, then front and back pieces are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 240-260-285-310-335-365 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Sky. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 3 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 40-44-49-54-55-61 stitches evenly spaced - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 200-216-236-256-280-304 stitches. Change to circular needle 4 mm. Insert 1 marker thread in both sides of the piece (= 100-108-118-128-140-152 stitches on both front and back piece). Start the round at one of the marker threads (= in the side). Work stocking stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When the piece measures 6-7-8-6-7-8 cm from the cast-on edge decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm a total of 4 times = 184-200-220-240-264-288 stitches (= 92-100-110-120-132-144 stitches between the 2 marker threads on front and back pieces). When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm work pattern A.1 over the middle 22 stitches on the front piece. The remaining stitches are worked in stocking stitch as before (= 35-39-44-49-55-61 stitches in stocking stitch on each side of A.1 on the front piece). When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm cast off 2-3-4-5-7-9 stitches on each side of both marker threads (= 4-6-8-10-14-18 stitches cast off for the armhole on each side). There are 88-94-102-110-118-126 stitches left on the back piece and the number of stitches on the front piece varies according to your knitting tension and how many rows of A.1 have been worked in height. Front and back pieces are now finished separately.

FRONT PIECE:
Continue back and forth with A.1, stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above; AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes and v-neck as follows:

Armholes:
Cast off stitches at the beginning of each row from the armhole on each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-0-1-2-3-5 times and 1 stitch 3-4-5-6-7-6 times (= a total of 5-7-11-15-20-25 stitches cast off on each side including the first 2-3-4-5-7-9 stitches cast off on each side of both marker threads).

V-neck:
When A.1 has been completed in height divide the front piece in the middle for the left and right shoulder. There should be the same number of stitches on both shoulders and the piece should divide in the middle of diagram A.1. Place the stitches for the left shoulder on a thread and work the right shoulder as follows:

Right shoulder:
Start from the right side and work pattern from the neck as follows: A.2 over the first 12 stitches, stocking stitch until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth (the decreases for the armhole are continued if they are not finished) and on the next row from the right side start decreasing for the V-NECK – read description above. Decrease every 2nd row 8-7-7-6-6-5 times and then every 4th row 5-6-7-8-9-10 times (a total of 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches decreased) = 33-35-35-36-36-36 stitches. Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm (the armhole measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm). On the next row from the right side work as follows: knit over knit and purl over purl for the first 12 stitches (= neck-edge), knit the remaining 21-23-23-24-24-24 stitches and decrease at the same time 5-5-5-5-5-4 stitches evenly over these stitches = 16-18-18-19-19-20 stitches + the 12 stitches for the neck-edge. Turn and cast off the 16-18-18-19-19-20 stitches on the shoulder.
Work A.2 back and forth over the other 12 stitches (= neck-edge). When the piece measures 2 cm from where the shoulder stitches were cast off, work short rows with pattern as before, starting from the right side as follows: * work all stitches, turn and work the first 8 stitches, turn and work back, turn and work the first 3 stitches, turn and work back, turn and work all stitches *, work from *-* 2 times. (This is so the neck edge fits nicely around neck – the edge furthest away from neck is slightly longer than edge closest to neck) Continue with A.2 until the neck edge measures approx. 14-14-15-15-15-15 cm along the longest side from where the stitches were cast off for the shoulder. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Left shoulder:
Start from the right side and work pattern from the armhole as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, stocking stitch until there are 12 stitches left on the row, A.3 over the last 12 stitches (= towards the v-neck). Continue like this back and forth at the same time as the decreases for the armhole continue and you start to decrease for the v-neck on the next row from the right side – read description above. Decrease every 2nd row 8-7-7-6-6-5 times and every 4th row 5-6-7-8-9-10 times (a total of 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches decreased) = 33-35-35-36-36-36 stitches. Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm (the armhole measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm). On the next row from the right side work as follows: Knit the first 21-23-23-24-24-24 stitches and decrease 5-5-5-5-5-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, then work A.3 over the remaining 12 stitches (= neck-edge) = 16-18-18-19-19-20 stitches + the 12 stitches in A.3. Turn and work the first 12 stitches then cast off the remaining 16-18-18-19-19-20 stitches for the shoulder. Cut the strand. Start from the right side and work A.3 back and forth over the 12 stitches. When the piece measures 2 cm from where the shoulder stitches were cast off, work short rows with the pattern as before and starting from the right side as follows: * work all stitches, turn and work back, turn and work the first 8 stitches, turn and work back, turn and work the first 3 stitches, turn and work back *, work from *-* 2 times. (This is so the neck edge fits nicely around neck – the edge furthest away from neck is slightly longer than edge closest to neck. Continue with A.3 until the neck edge measures approx. 14-14-15-15-15-15 cm along the longest side from where the stitches were cast off for the shoulder. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

BACK PIECE:
There are 88-94-102-110-118-126 stitches on the back piece. Work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side; at the same time cast off stitches for the armholes in the same way as on the front piece (= a total of 5-7-11-15-20-25 stitches cast off for each armhole) = 82-86-88-90-92-94 stitches. When the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm cast off the middle 42-42-44-44-46-46 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then cast off stitches on each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 16-18-18-19-19-20 stitches. Continue back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the armhole until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm (armhole measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm). Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way

SLEEVE:
Cast on 50-55-55-60-60-65 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and Sky. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 3 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 7-11-9-12-10-12 stitches evenly spaced = 43-44-46-48-50-53 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Work stocking stitch in the round. At the same time when the sleeve measures 11-11-12-11-11-9 cm from the cast-on edge increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 7-6-5-5-4-4 round a total of 14-16-18-19-21-22 times = 71-76-82-86-92-97 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 48-48-47-46-44-42 cm. Now cast off the middle 4-6-8-10-14-14 stitches under the sleeve for the armhole (= 2-3-4-5-7-7 stitches on each side of the marker thread). Then continue back and forth with stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME at the beginning of each row cast off for the sleeve cap as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 4-4-3-3-2-2 times, 1 stitch 0-0-5-7-12-16 times, 2 stitches 4-4-3-2-2-1 times and 3 stitches 2-2-2-2-1-1 times = 23-26-28-30-32-33 stitches left. Cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures a total of 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the cast-off edge. Sew the 2 neck-edges together inside the cast-off edge. Then sew the neck-edge to the back piece. Sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the neck-edge and inside the cast-off edge on the back piece. Sew the sleeves to the body inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the body and inside the cast-off edge on the sleeves.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= place 4 stitches on the cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= place 1 stitch on the cable needle behind piece, knit 4, purl 1 from cable needle
= place 4 stitches on the cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 4 from cable needle
= place 4 stitches on the cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit and pass the slipped stitch over
= purl 2 together
= this square has no stitch; go straight to next symbol in diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Myriam Dorekens 08.10.2019 - 18:29:

Hallo ik vindt dat jullie heel mooie patronen hebben ,graag had ik geweten of dat ook gebreid kan worden op de breimachine ,want jullie werken veel met een rondbreinaald ?

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 20:16:

Dag Myriam,

Helaas zijn onze patronen alleen uitgeschreven om met de hand te breien.

Heike 20.09.2019 - 18:33:

Thank you for your prompt answer, which, however, was not very helpful. If I had saved settings the other patterns would not print correctly.

Heike 19.09.2019 - 14:26:

Hello everybody - I am trying to print the pattern and can only get the first page. Could you please check the file? I have never had problems printing your patterns before and another pattern printed just fine. So Iam assuming it may an error in the printing file. Thanks for helping -Heike

DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 15:21:

Dear Heike, we could succesfully print all pages to this pattern, make sure your printer didn't save previous settings, so that all pages will be print. Happy knitting!

Marie Hélène 16.09.2019 - 16:51:

Je suis étonnée qu'il faille à la fin des côtes diminuer de 60 mailles au moment d'entamer le jersey. Le modèle a l'air droit et d'habitude on augmente à ce moment là , on ne diminue pas. Pouvez vous m'expliquer l'interet de diminuer de 60 mailles à ce moment là ? Merci

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 10:29:

Bonjour Marie-Hélène, il faut plus de mailles avec les aiguilles 3 qu'avec les aiguilles 4 pour obtenir la même largeur (= circonférence), pour que le modèle reste droit après les côtes, on va donc diminuer avant de commencer le jersey et ainsi obtenir la bonne largeur. Bon tricot!

Béatrice 12.09.2019 - 07:54:

Bonjour, Êtes vous sûre que les symboles du diagramme correspondent au diagramme ?

DROPS Design 12.09.2019 kl. 09:04:

Bonjour Béatrice, qu'est-ce qui vous fait penser le contraire?

Chrystelle 23.08.2019 - 12:30:

Bonjour, Pourrait-on avoir les explications pour une taille XS ou 14/16 ans ? Merci

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 14:46:

Bonjour Chrystelle, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin pour toute assistance complémentaire. Bon tricot!

Kathy 14.08.2019 - 10:19:

I so agree with Ellis's comment. I hate drop shoulders and will only knit set-in sleeves. Some designs, such as this one, are tricky to adapt without a lot of work and graph paper.

Heléne 01.08.2019 - 13:12:

Hi! Thank you for your quick reply. In the end of the pattern I find the list of symbols and the lay out of the sweater with measures. Below the text where I would expect to see the diagram I only find a small, white square. It looks the same in the print preview. Helene

DROPS Design 02.08.2019 kl. 19:10:

Dear Heléne, the diagram shows fine, have you tried to refresh the page or empty the cache of the browser? Otherwise, have you checked another browser?

Helene 01.08.2019 - 11:38:

Hi, I am trying to knit this, but can’t find the directions or chart for the cable pattern, or any link? Is this an error in the pattern?

DROPS Design 01.08.2019 kl. 12:22:

Hi Helene, The diagrams are all at the bottom of the pattern. Happy knitting!

Federica 24.07.2019 - 14:35:

Could I replace Drop Sky with two strains of Drops Kid Silk?

DROPS Design 25.07.2019 kl. 19:02:

Hi Federica, below you will see suggestions given by our yarn convertor (for the first size): you can replace 250g of DROPS Sky (1 thread) with: 475g DROPS Muskat (1 thread), 475g DROPS Lima (1 thread), 396g DROPS Belle (1 thread), 432g DROPS Puna (1 thread), 475g DROPS Karisma (1 thread), 453g DROPS Merino Extra Fine (1 thread), 453g DROPS Cotton Light (1 thread), 432g DROPS Cotton Merino (1 thread). Happy knitting!

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