DROPS / 201 / 37

Dandelion Dreams by DROPS Design

Knitted top with round yoke in DROPS Belle. Piece is knitted top down with fan pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern vs-054
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 03, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm – for edge in garter stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 123 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 7) = 17.6. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 17th and 18th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 123-126-129-135-144-150 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Belle. Knit 1 round, then work rib = knit 1/purl 2 until 4 round rib have been worked. Knit 1 round. Knit 1 more round while increasing 7-14-11-15-16-20 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 130-140-140-150-160-170 stitches.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round. Move the marker thread upwards when working. Now work pattern A.1 (= 10 stitches) 13-14-14-15-16-17 times in total on round. When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 169-182-182-195-208-221 stitches on round (and there is a marker thread in every repetition A.1). Knit 5, remove marker thread at the beginning of round and insert it here (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 5 stitches towards the left). Remove the rest of the marker threads in piece.
Now work pattern A.2 (= 13 stitches) 13-14-14-15-16-17 times in total on round. NOTE: Fans should be in the middle of fans from previous row. When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, there are 208-224-224-240-256-272 stitches on round (and there is a marker thread in every repetition A.2). Knit 7, remove marker thread at the beginning of round and insert it here (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 7 stitches towards the left). Remove the rest of the marker threads in piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now work pattern A.3 (= 16 stitches) 13-14-14-15-16-17 times in total on round. NOTE: Fans should be in the middle of fans from previous row. When entire A.3 has been worked vertically, there are 221-238-238-255-272-289 stitches on round (and there is a marker thread in every repetition A.3). Knit 7, remove marker thread at the beginning of round and insert it here (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 7 stitches towards the left). Remove the rest of the marker threads in piece.
Now work pattern A.4 (= 17 stitches) 13-14-14-15-16-17 times in total on round. NOTE: Fans should be in the middle of fans from previous row. When entire A.4 has been worked vertically, there are 286-308-308-330-352-374 stitches on round (and there is a marker thread in every repetition A.4). Piece measures approx. 16 cm from cast-on edge and down.
Now continue with stocking stitch in the round for 1-3-5-7-9-11 cm, at the same time increase 14-13-27-30-34-38 stitches evenly – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 1-1-2-3-4-5 cm 1-2-2-2-2-2 times in total = 300-334-362-390-420-450 stitches. When piece measures 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm, work next round as follows:
Work the first 42-46-49-55-60-65 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 66-74-82-85-90-94 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 84-93-99-110-120-131 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 66-74-82-85-90-94 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 42-47-50-55-60-66 stitches (= half back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-202-218-240-264-290 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast-on under sleeves in each side (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this approx. every 7 cm 4 times in total = 200-218-234-256-280-306 stitches. When piece measures 30 cm from division, increase 31-31-36-38-41-45 stitches evenly = 231-249-270-294-321-351 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 2) in the round for 3 cm. Cast off. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Top measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 66-74-82-85-90-94 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle or double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under sleeve = 74-82-92-95-102-108 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under sleeve. Marker thread is the beginning of round. Work in stocking stitch in the round until piece measures 3 cm. Work next round as follows: Knit 27-31-34-34-37-38, knit the next 20-20-24-26-28-32 stitches together 2 by 2 (= 10-10-12-13-14-16 stitches decreased), work the remaining 27-31-34-35-37-38 stitches on round = 64-72-80-82-88-92 stitches. Knit 2 rounds. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work 4 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Cast off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= knit 1 Insert a marker thread in this stitch. Work fan in this stitch later in piece.
= insert a marker thread in the space between 2 stitches Work fan in the space between these 2 stitches later in piece
= fan in stitch with marker thread: * Insert needle in stitch with marker thread, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn to the front of piece so make the yarn over approx. 2.5 cm long, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total (= 5 yarn overs on needle). NOTE: Make sure that the yarn overs are approx. 2.5 cm long (it is important to avoid tight yarn overs to make the knitting tension correct vertically). On next round knit the yarn overs.
= fan in the space with marker thread between 2 stitches: * Insert needle in space with marker thread, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn to the front of piece so make the yarn over approx. 2.5 cm long, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total (= 5 yarn overs on needle). NOTE: Make sure that the yarn overs are approx. 2.5 cm long (it is important to avoid tight yarn overs to make the knitting tension correct vertically). On next round knit the yarn overs.
= knit stitch before fan and stitch over first yarn over in fan together (= 1 stitch decreased).
= slip stitch over last yarn over in fan off the needle knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
= knit the 2 stitches before fan and stitch over first yarn over in fan together (= 2 stitches decreased).
= slip stitch over last yarn over in fan off the needle knitwise, knit the 2 stitches after fan together, pass slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased).



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Father 11.08.2019 - 16:09:

Bonjour, J’aimerai faire une rehausse pour le dos. Pouvez-vous me préciser si le début du tour correspond au milieu du dos. Merci

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Mme Father, le début des tours au tout début de l'empiècement ne se trouve pas au milieu dos, on sera au milieu dos seulement quand on aura terminé l'empiècement (on décale le fil marqueur entre chaque diagramme en hauteur pour que les éventails soient intercalés). Bon tricot!

Nancy Reed 25.06.2019 - 08:31:

I would love to read the comments in English. Also I plan to make this top in plain knitting in the round, without the fan pattern. Hopefully it will be possible to do this! Can you confirm or advise against this? If possible, perhaps you have a pattern for a plain top, from the top, short sleeves, for sizes 3X and 4X. Hard to find! I want to make several for myself - I've been given some lovely yarns and plan to use them. Thank you for your help!!

DROPS Design 25.06.2019 kl. 08:36:

Dear Mrs Reed, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, you are welcome to contact your store for any individual assistance - you will find here some other top patterns with round yoke. Happy knitting!

Helga Eggen 22.06.2019 - 13:41:

Sendte dessverre spørsmålet som kommertar. Jeg fikk ikke til "vifta" Skal den virkelig være 2,5 cm? Finnes det en video for dette?

DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 08:24:

Hei Helga. Ja, tråden skal trekkes lik at den blir 2,5 cm lang. Det ligger 2 videoer av viftene til venstre for oppskriften, fekse denne: . God fornøyelse

Helga Eggen 22.06.2019 - 13:38:

Skjønner ikke hvordan vifta blir laget Kastet skal være 2,5 cm. Brukes det en ekstra pinne? Prøvde å se om det var en video.

Bjørg 06.06.2019 - 09:10:

Oppskriften er feil, etter å ha strikket A 3 viser oppskriften 221 masker ? beklagelig at diagram ikke er korrigert !

DROPS Design 06.06.2019 kl. 09:37:

Hei Bjørg. Dette stemmer. Det er 17 masker i hver A.3 på siste omgang. Du strikker 13 rapporter av A.3 i bredden. 17 x 13 = 221 masker. God fornøyelse

Inger-Lise Skartlien 05.06.2019 - 21:14:

Når man lager kast og strikker en maske og gjentar 5 x, så kan ikke jeg forstå at når man feller 2 masker på neste omgang, så blir den totale økningen masker pr rapport 3? (A1)

DROPS Design 06.06.2019 kl. 07:22:

Hei Inger-Lise, Du først øker 5 masker ved å lage 5 kast og på neste omgang feller 2 masker. Da blir det totalt øket 3 masker på disse 2 omgangene, God fornøyelse!

Doris 15.02.2019 - 16:35:

Wann wird die Anleitung für dieses schöne Modell veröffentlicht?

Isabelle R. 06.02.2019 - 14:38:

Bonjour à votre équipe, j'aimerais savoir quand ce patron sera disponible, j'aimerais bien le tricoter pour cette été, merci.

Gerda Craps 31.01.2019 - 16:21:

Waar vind ik het patroon ?

Manuela 04.01.2019 - 20:40:

Dieses Modell gefällt mir sehr gut, tolles Muster! Würde mich freuen, wenn die Anleitung schnell eingestellt wird.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 201-37

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.