DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Rays of Sunset

Knitted shawl in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked in garter stitch with stripes and short rows.

DROPS 201-38
DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-430
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
One-size.
Measurements: Width at top: approx. 160 cm. Length in middle: approx. 69 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g colour 100, off white
100 g colour 655, wooden rose
100 g colour 623, rose mist
50 g colour 651, sand

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 41 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases worked from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch by knitting 2 together. Repeat the decrease alternately every, and every 2nd, row from the right side a total of 26 times in each repeat (there are 5 repeats on the shawl). Each time you start on a new repeat with short rows, start the decreases again; i.e. you decrease 26 stitches on each repeat.

STRIPES:
NOTE: Change of colour is at the beginning of a row from the right side (= bottom edge of shawl). Make sure the strand is not tight between changes!
STRIPE-1: * 1 ridge with rose mist, 1 ridge with off white *, work from *-* until repeat 1 has been completed = 40 ridges.
STRIPE-2: * 1 ridge with wooden rose, 1 ridge with off white *, work from *-* until repeat 2 has been completed = 40 ridges.
STRIPE-3: * 1 ridge with sand, 1 ridge with off white *, work from *-* until repeat 3 has been completed = 40 ridges.
STRIPE-4: * 1 ridge with rose mist, 1 ridge with off white *, work from *-* until repeat 4 has been completed = 40 ridges.
STRIPE-5: * 1 ridge with wooden rose, 1 ridge with off white *, work from *-* until repeat 5 has been completed = 40 ridges.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid holes when turning the piece during short rows, tighten the strand before continuing.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in 5 repeats with short rows and STRIPES – read description above. Begin at the top of the shawl and work down towards the one bottom edge. The whole piece is worked in GARTER STITCH - read description above.

SHAWL:
Cast on 336 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 and rose mist. Knit 4 rows (= 2 ridges).

REPEAT 1:
Work STRIPE-1 - read description above, AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as described below and decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of each row from the right side - read DECREASE TIP! Work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Knit back.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn – read KNITTING TIP!
ROW 4: Knit back.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 8 stitches more left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 6: Knit back.
ROW 7: Knit until there are 8 stitches more left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 8: Knit back. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue like this and work until there are 8 stitches more left than on the previous row from the right side 33 more times (= a total of 35 times), then work until there are 9 stitches more left than on previous row, a total of 2 times. When all the short rows have been worked you have 39 ridges and have decreased 26 stitches = 310 stitches on row. Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn and knit back. Repeat 1 = 40 ridges.

REPEAT 2:
Work STRIPE-2 – read description above, AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as described below and decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of each row from the right side - read DECREASE TIP! Work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Knit back.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn – remember KNITTING TIP!
ROW 4: Knit back.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 8 stitches more left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 6: Knit back.
ROW 7: Knit until there are 8 stitches more left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 8: Knit back.
Continue like this and work until there are 8 stitches more left than on the previous row from the right side 11 more times (= a total of 13 times), then work until there are 7 stitches more left than the previous row a total of 24 times. When all the short rows have been worked you have 39 ridges and decreased 26 stitches = 284 stitches on the row. Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn and knit back. Repeat 2 = 40 ridges.

REPEAT 3:
Work STRIPE-3 - read description above, AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as described below and decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of each row from the right side – remember DECREASE TIP! Work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Knit back.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn – remember KNITTING TIP!
ROW 4: Knit back.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 7 more stitches left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 6: Knit back.
ROW 7. Knit until there are 7 more stitches left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 8: Knit back.
Continue like this and work until there are 7 more stitches left than the previous row from the right side 22 more times (= a total of 24 times), then work until there are 6 more stitches left than the previous row from the right side a total of 13 times. When all the short rows have been worked you have 39 ridges and decreased 26 stitches = 258 stitches on row. Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn and knit back. Repeat 3 = 40 ridges.

REPEAT 4:
Work STRIPE-4 - read description above, AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as described below and decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of each row from the right side – remember DECREASE TIP! Work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Knit back.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn – remember KNITTING TIP!
ROW 4: Knit back.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 6 more stitches left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 6: Knit back.
ROW 7. Knit until there are 6 more stitches left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 8: Knit back.
Continue like this and work until there are 6 more stitches left than the previous row from the right side 33 more times (= a total of 35 times), then work until there are 5 more stitches left than the previous row from the right side a total of 2 times. When all the short rows have been worked you have 39 ridges and decreased 26 stitches = 232 stitches on row. Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn and knit back. Repeat 4 = 40 ridges.

REPEAT 5:
Work STRIPE-5 - read description above, AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as described below and decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch at the beginning of each row from the right side – remember DECREASE TIP! Work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit all stitches, turn.
ROW 2: Knit back.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn – remember KNITTING TIP!
ROW 4: Knit back.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 6 more stitches left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 6: Knit back.
ROW 7: Knit until there are 6 more stitches left than on the previous row from the right side, turn.
ROW 8: Knit back.
Continue like this and work until there are 6 more stitches left than the previous row from the right side 7 more times (= a total of 9 times), then work until there are 5 more stitches left than the previous row from the right side a total of 28 times. When all the short rows have been worked you have 39 ridges and decreased 26 stitches = 206 stitches on row. Knit until there are 4 stitches left, turn and knit back. Repeat 5 = 40 ridges.

Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches with wooden rose. Cast off with knit, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 5th stitch. Yarn overs cast off as normal stitches.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.03.2019
Correction - STRIPE 2: AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as described below.
Updated online: 27.06.2019
Correction - STRIPE-1: * 1 ridge with rose mist, 1 ridge with off white *, work from *-* until repeat 1 has been completed = 40 ridges.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Susann wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke hvilke pinde der skal tages ind på? Hvis der er 80 pinde, kan I skrive eksempler på hvilke pinde der skal tages ind? 1000 tak.

03.04.2021 - 22:49

country flag Inge Pnnekamp wrote:

Liebes Drops Team! Gibt es eine Anleitung dieses Modells auch als rechtinkliges Dreiecksuches? Ich möchte sehr gerne eine rechteckige Decke stricken und dazu 2 Dreiechtücher aneinander fügen. Wie kann ich dieses Modell dahin gehend abändern? Immer den Rapport 1 stricken ohne Abnahme? Danke für Ihre Antwort und auch für die genialen Anleitungen allesamt Herzliche Grüße Inge Pinnekamp

25.01.2021 - 06:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Pinnekamp, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen hier finden Sie alle unseren gestrickten Tüchern - gerne kann Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden noch dazu weiterhelfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2021 - 11:51

country flag Vsilke wrote:

Ich bin nicht sicher, ob ich die Abnahme richtig verstehe. Beispiel 1.-2. Reihe rechts 3. re. mit abnehmen , 4. 5.6. rechts 7. re mit abnehmen, 8, rechts 9. re mit abnehmen, 10. 11.12. rechts Richtig? Richtig?

04.01.2020 - 08:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Vsilke, die Anahmen werden abweschelnd bei jeder 2. Reihe (= in jeder Hinreihe) und bei jeder 4. Reihe (= in jeder 2. Hinreihe): 1 Reihe mit Abnahme, 3 Reihe ohne Abnahmen, 1 Reihe mit Abnahme, 1 Reihe ohne Abnahme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.01.2020 - 07:41

country flag Sylvie Belleville wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas lorsqu'il est dit, dans les explications du modèle, de répéter les diminutions alternativement tous les rangs et tous les 2 rangs sur l'endroit. On diminue à tous les rangs OU à tous les 2 rangs? Je suis confuse. Merci de votre aide!

24.07.2019 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie! Regardez la lecon DROPS sur ce sujet ICI. Les diminutions s'y font alternativement tous les 3 et 4 rangs, mais la methodologie est bien claire. Bon tricot!

24.07.2019 - 22:24

country flag Janna wrote:

Hallo, ik begrijp niet zo goed bij welke naalden ik moet minderen. Minder ik dan (voor herhaling 1) bij naald 1, 3 en 7, naald 9, 11 en 15 etc (aan de goede kant afwisselend iedere naald en iedere 2e naald) tot ik dat in totaal 26 keer heb gedaan en 26 steken heb geminderd? Klopt het dan dat ik in de laatste naalden van de herhaling niet meer minder omdat er al 26 steken geminderd zijn?

07.07.2019 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Janna,

Op elke herhaling brei je in totaal 40 ribbels. Je mindert telkens aan de goede kant afwisselend elke naad en om de naald, zodat je verdeeld over de naalden 26 keer mindert. Dus je mindert op ribbel 1,3,4,6,7,9,10,12,15 etc. (Dus de ene keer sla je een ribbel over ,de andere keer niet.)

08.07.2019 - 09:56

country flag Noemy Rosario wrote:

It seems there is some error on translation on STRIPES Both stripes 1 and 2 have the same colors (1 ridge with wooden rose, 1 ridge with off white) Could you please check this? Thanks!

26.06.2019 - 19:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Rosario, thanks for your feedback, you are right, Stripe 1 should be worked with Rose mist (= 623) + off white. Pattern will be edited asap. Happy knitting!

27.06.2019 - 08:43

country flag Michalopoulou Vasiliki wrote:

What other color combinations can I use?

27.05.2019 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michalopoulou, basically you can use aní combination of Fabel unicolored, and the ones that have mid-length color repeats (sriping). I would either use for the base color the natural, or the black for a strong contrast, or the light gray or beige for a softer contrast. Similarlym if you use the colors Grand Canyon, Deep Ocean and / or Emerald City, you will have bright, jewel colors. Sunset, berry Dreams and Blue Lagoon would produce a spicy tropical mood as opposed teh original's soft, pastells. Happy Coloring and Happy Knitting!

27.05.2019 - 22:15

country flag Emka wrote:

Hallo, ik begrijp niet dat ik bijv bij herhaling 1 33x moet breien met iedere keer 8 steken maar maar dat het dan 35 x moet zijn. Bij herhaling 2 11x maar in totaal 13 keer en zo verder met alle herhalingen maar steeds 2 x meer als er eerst aangegeven wordt.

17.05.2019 - 14:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Emka,

Dat kan inderdaad wat verwarrend overkomen, maar het is de bedoeling dat je het in totaal 35 keer doet. Omdat je het al 2 keer gedaan hebt (in naald 5 en 7) staat er dat je het nog 33 keer moet doen en dus in totaal 35 keer.

22.05.2019 - 13:44

country flag Sophie wrote:

Doux printemps

22.02.2019 - 22:21

country flag Sophie wrote:

Doux printemps

22.02.2019 - 22:20