DROPS Lace
DROPS Lace
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Glowing Embers

Knitted shawl in DROPS Lace or DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with garter stitch and lace pattern.

DROPS 202-20
DROPS Design: Pattern no la-038
Yarn group A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
Height: In middle = approx. 54 cm.
Length: Along top = approx. 174 cm.
(After shaping the piece measures approx. 64 cm in middle and approx. 204 cm along top.)

MATERIALS:
DROPS LACE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g colour 3620, red
Or use:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250 g colour 3620, red

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Lace
DROPS Lace
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

SHAPING:
Lay the piece in lukewarm water until it is thoroughly wet. Press the water gently out– do not wring the garment. Then roll the piece in a towel and press more water out. The piece will now be damp. Lay the piece on a mat or mattress – pull gently to the measurements given above under SIZE and allow to dry. Repeat this process after each wash.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle so you have room for all the stitches. The whole piece is worked in GARTER STITCH – read description above.

SHAWL:
Cast on 5 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and work as follows: 
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and 1 knit (= 4 stitches increased and 9 stitches on needle).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches and yarn overs.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3, 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 4 stitches increased and 13 stitches on needle).
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches and yarn overs.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle stitch and allow it to follow your work onwards.

Work the next row as follows:
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit as far as the stitch with marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-stitch) and 1 yarn over. Knit until there are 2 stitches left on row, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 6 stitches increased and 19 stitches on needle).
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches and yarn overs.

Repeat ROWS 5 and 6 onwards until there are 373 stitches on the needle (rows 5 and 6 have been worked a total of 60 times).

Then work according to diagram A.1-A.7 as follows from the right side: Work A.1 over 8 stitches, A.2 until there are 10 stitches left before the mid-stitch (=12 repeats in width), work A.3 over 10 stitches, A.4 over 1 stitch (= mid-stitch), A.5 over 10 stitches, A.6 until there are 8 stitches left on row (= 12 repeats in width) and work A.7 over 8 stitches. When the diagrams have been completed there are 457 stitches on the needle.

Work the diagrams 1 more time in height as follows: Work A.1 over 8 stitches, A.2 until there are 10 stitches left before the mid-stitch (=15 repeats in width), work A.3 over 10 stitches, A.4 over 1 stitch (= mid-stitch), A.5 over 10 stitches, A.6 until there are 8 stitches left on row (= 15 repeats in width) and work A.7 over 8 stitches.


When the diagrams have been completed there are 541 stitches on the row.
On the next row from the right side work as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit as far as the mid-stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-stitch) 1 yarn over. Knit until there are 2 stitches left on row, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 547 stitches on needle. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.

CASTING OFF:
So the cast-off edge is not tight you can make yarn overs at the same time as you cast off with knit from the right side as follows: Make 1 yarn over above the yarn overs in the pattern and then cast them off as normal stitches. Make sure the strand is not tight as you cast off. If the edge is still tight, use a larger needle size when casting off. Cut and fasten the strand. When the shawl is finished, it can be dampened and shaped – read SHAPING above.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 202-20

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Christine Orvik wrote:

Hei! Skjønner ikke helt at man skal strikke A3 over 10 masker i 3. runde, da det er økt slik at det gjenstår 11 masker fra diagramstart A3 til midtmasken i diagram A4. Er det sånn at man i 1.omgang av diagrammet skal sette maskemerke 10 masker før midtmasken ( og tilsvarende etter midmasken) og forholde seg til det? Det økes jo 2 masker annenhver omgang ved midtmaska (+ til sammen 4 i hver ytterside). Jeg har rett og slett gått meg litt fast ;)

03.09.2021 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Christine. Det økes på hver side av midtmasken (A.4) hver gang det strikkes fra retten. På første rad når det strikkes etter diagrammene (A.1-A.7) strikkes A.3 over 10 masker, men på neste rad strikkes A.3 over 11 masker og på 3. rad strikkes det over 11 masker + det lages et kast, så på 4. rad strikkes det over 12 masker. mvh DROPS design

13.09.2021 - 10:46

country flag AL wrote:

Jag förstår inte var omslagen i avmaskningen ska göras. Ska de vara ovanför alla omslag i mönstret, alltså mellan varje maska?

18.01.2021 - 22:10

country flag Roosa wrote:

I'm so sad that you are no longer producing Drops Lace. I have used this fabulous yarn for beautiful woven and knitten textiles. There is no similar, cost-effective wool-silk yarn in the market. Why was the producement ceased? Are you planning to have a replacement yarn?

09.01.2021 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Roosa, DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk has the exact same content as DROPS Lace did, and would be a nice alternative - try out our yarn converter to get new amount required. Happy knitting!

11.01.2021 - 08:42

country flag Elin wrote:

Om man skulle vilja göra sjalen till endast 35cm höjd (eller bredd?), hur gör jag då? Jag förstår att även längden blir kortare då! Mvh

10.06.2020 - 23:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elin, vi har desværre ikke mulighed for at skrive mønsteret om til andre mål. Vi har også lidt mindre sjaler, hvis det er lettere for dig at følge en opskrift. Prøv at søge på sjaler og vælg strikke. :)

12.06.2020 - 10:50

country flag Evin Zerdest wrote:

Hej , kan någon förklara mig : om diagrammet går ut på 8 maskor och i början av en varv står omslag om stickan ska jag börja varv med en omslag ? Tack

16.03.2020 - 12:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ja det stämmer, är det är en symbol för omslag först i diagrammet så börjar du varvet med ett omslag. Lycka till!

18.03.2020 - 10:08

country flag Evin wrote:

Hej, Jag är nu i början av 23råd men fortfarande har 373 maskor. Kan inte inte begripa mig hur jag kommer till 457 maskor och samtligt ska följa diagrammet (jag menar följa antalet maskor efter A1, A2 också vidare) det blir ju mer maskor. Kan jag i 26 råd öka med maskor? Så det blir rätt antalet maskor till nästa omgång ? Tycker ni inte att det är fel i uppskrivet arbete? Vänligen Evin .

10.03.2020 - 08:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Evin, Jo men i A.1 och A.7 öker du 2 maskor i varje sida på vart annat varv enligt diagrammet. Lycka till!

10.03.2020 - 11:31

country flag Elaine wrote:

Bonjour j ai un problème je suis rendu à la ligne 21 du diagramme A3 et j ai sur mon aiguille 20 mailles alors que sur le patron je devrai avoir 21 mailles Exemple dans le diagramme A2 à la ligne 21 il y a un décalage ( c'est correct le tout fonctionne ) mais pour les diagramme A3 et A5 il y a une maille de plus que je n ai pas sur l aiguille que doit je faire ?

20.01.2020 - 03:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Elaine, la dernière maille du dernier A.2 n'est pas dessinée, car elle figure dans A.3 (comme entre A.1 et A.2), et ce sera la même chose entre A.5 (= la dernière m, celle en plus de A.5 est la 1ère m de A.6 et la dernière m de A.6 est la 1ère du A.6 suivant/la 1ère de A.7. Bon tricot!

20.01.2020 - 10:17

country flag Cath wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide ! :)

04.12.2019 - 16:32

country flag Cath wrote:

Bonjour à vous ! Avant de commencer, j'aimerais savoir si ce châle se tricote en commençant par le haut ou par le bas, je n'arrive pas à comprendre uniquement par la lecture. Merci pour la réponse !

04.12.2019 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cath, on tricote ce châle de haut en bas, en augmentant sur les côtés et au milieu pour créer le triangle. Bon tricot!

04.12.2019 - 13:57

country flag Anne wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, mir gefällt dieses Tuch sehr gut. Ich habe bereits angefangen es zu stricken. Nun frage ich mich wie das Karomuster in der Spitze entstehen soll, wenn ich Reihe 5 bis 5 wiederhole. Müsste nich zwischen den Umschlägen am Rand und den Umschlägen an der mittleren Masche noch mehr Umschläge gemacht werden, um eine Lochreihe in der Mitte zu erhalten? Viele Grüße, Anne

25.11.2019 - 07:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, Sie wiederholen Reihe 5 (Hinreihe), dh 6 Maschen werden in jeder Hinreihe zugenommen: 2 am Anfang der Reihe (= 1 Masche rechts, 1 Umschlag, 1 Masche rechts, 1 Umschlag, bis zur markierten Masche rechts stricken,), 2 beidseitg der mittleren Masche (= 1 Umschlag, 1 Masche rechts (= mittlere Masche) und 1 Umschlag.) und 2 am Ende der Reihe (=Rechts stricken bis noch 2 Maschen übrig sind, 1 Umschlag, 1 Masche rechts, 1 Umschlag und 1 Masche rechts). So bekommen Sie die Löcher beidseitg der mittleren Masche. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.11.2019 - 10:45