DROPS / 201 / 29

Egyptian Feathers Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked top down with 2-coloured English rib and zigzag stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-434
Yarn group A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 100, off white
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour 904, lavender
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 103, grey blue

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
26 stitches in width and 52 rows in height with English rib and zigzag = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM - for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM - for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6-6-7-7-7-7 items.

-------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH BAND (worked back and forth like this because of English rib pattern):
ROW 1 (= from right side): Knit.
ROW 2 (= from right side): Purl.
ROW 3 (= from wrong side): Purl.
ROW 4 (= from wrong side): Knit.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. First work A.1A/A.2A (= rib on neck). When A.A has been worked 1 time in height work A.1B/A.2B over A.A. When A.B has been worked 1 time in height work A.1C/A.2C over A.B.

STRIPES:
When working 2-coloured English rib, work back and forth with circular needle as follows: Work row 1 from the right side with colour-2, push all stitches back to the other end of the circular needle so the next row is also worked from the right side with colour-1.
Then turn the piece, work 1 row from the wrong side with colour-2, push all stitches back to the other end of the circular needle so the next row is also worked from the wrong side with colour-1.
So you work 2 rows from the right side with different colours and 2 rows from the wrong side with different colours.
Work stripes in English rib, i.e. colour-1 = used for knitted stitch from right side and colour-2 = used for purled stitch from right side.
Adjust so that each stripe finishes after 2 rows from the wrong side.
STRIPE 1: Colour-1 = lavender, colour-2 = off white. Work until the piece measures 5 cm at the shortest point.
STRIPE 2: Colour-1 = grey blue, colour-2 = off white. Work until the piece measures a total of 9 cm at the shortest point.
STRIPE 3: Colour-1 = off white, colour-2 = lavender. Work until A.1c and A.2c have been worked 1 time in height.
The last row in the diagram is worked with lavender from the right side. Then continue the stripes on yoke and body as follows (bands in garter stitch are worked as before):
ROW 1: Purl with off white.
ROW 2: Knit with lavender. Push all stitches to other end of circular needle so the next row is also from the wrong side.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Knit with off white.
ROW 4 (= right side): Purl with lavender. Push all stitches to other end of circular needle so the next row is also from the right side.
Repeat rows 1 to 4.

KNITTING TIP-1:
If you are in doubt about which colour to use on next row, you can see the colour used on the previous row by looking at the bands.

KNITTING TIP-2:
All stitch counts when working English rib are without yarn overs, because the yarn overs belong to the knitted stitches and are therefore counted as 1 stitch (unless otherwise stated).

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, purl 2 together, purl 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), purl 2 stitches twisted together (2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 331 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 80.25.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 80th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row (wrong side) work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, purl 4 (marker thread sits in middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then purl the new stitches from the right side and knit from the wrong side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, work 2 together and work the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) work the yarn over normally to leave a hole¬¬ (ie:
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 9-9-8-8-8½-9 cm between each one.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The yoke is worked in 2-coloured English rib with zigzag, then continue with stocking stitch with wrong side out and stripes with 1 row in each colour. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth from mid front. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 131-143-143-155-155-167 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and off-white.
Work as follows from the wrong side: Knit 5 band stitches, purl until there are 5 stitches left and knit these 5 stitches.
Then work pattern as follows: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on row (= a total of 10-11-11-12-12-13 repeats of 12 stitches), A.2A (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch– remember BUTTONHOLE – read description above.
When A.1A and A.2A have been worked 1 time in height, work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern as follows (first row from the right side with off-white): Work 5 stitches in GARTER STITCH BANDS – read description above, A.1B until there are 6 stitches left on row (= a total of 10-11-11-12-12-13 repeats of 12 stitches), A.2B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch bands.
Push all stitches back to the other end of the circular needle so the next row can be worked with colour-1 from the right side. Read STRIPES, KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP-2 and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1B and A.2B have been worked 1 time in height there are 251-275-319-347-395-427 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 9-9-9-9-11-11 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
Now work A.1C over A.1B and A.2C over A.2B.
When A.1C and A.2C have been worked 1 time in height there are 331-363-407-443-467-505 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 17-17-19-19-21-21 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
Continue with knit from wrong side and purl from right side, 5 stitches in garter stitch bands on each side and with stripes as before.
When the piece measures 19-19-21-21-21-21 cm from the cast-on edge increase stitches evenly spaced as follows: Increase 4-4-4-4-8-8 stitches every 2 cm a total of 1-2-1-1-2-2 times = 335-371-411-447-483-521 stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1.
When the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge (measured along the band) divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 5 stitches in garter stitch bands and work the next 49-53-58-66-72-78 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 64-74-84-88-92-98 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 99-107-117-129-145-159 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 64-74-84-88-92-98 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the next 49-53-58-66-72-78 stitches as before, finishing with 5 stitches in garter stitch bands. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 223-239-259-287-315-341 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the body, in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing in the sides.
Continue back and forth with stripes as before with knit from the wrong side, purl from the right side and 5 stitches in garter stitch bands on each side towards mid front.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½-2½-2½-3-3-2½ cm a total of 10-10-10-9-9-11 times = 263-279-299-323-351-385 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 2 cm left to finished length).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked as before), where you increase 18-20-18-18-17-19 stitches evenly spaced (not on bands) = 281-299-317-341-368-404 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib as follows with off-white (first row from right side): 5 stitches in garter stitch *knit 1, purl 2*, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 64-74-84-88-92-98 stitches from the thread on the 1 side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-82-92-96-100-106 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start the round by the marker thread and purl in the round with stripes with alternately 1 round off white and 1 round lavender. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 9-13-17-18-19-21 times = 54-56-58-60-62-64 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 41-40-39-38-36-34 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 2 cm left to finished length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke).
Knit 1 round where you increase 0-1-2-0-1-2 stitches evenly spaced = 54-57-60-60-63-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round with off-white (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-42-41-39-37 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.03.2019
Correction - SLEEVE:... on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm
Updated online: 19.03.2019
The colours used for row 24 and 25 in diagram A.1b size S-M has been corrected.

Diagram

= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= from right side with colour-1
= from right side with colour-2
= from wrong side with colour-1
= from wrong side with colour-2
= make 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl
= knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch (both from right and wrong side)
= purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch (both from right and wrong side)
= from wrong side: increase 2 stitches with colour-2 by working 3 stitches in knitted stitch and yarn over; i.e. knit together yarn over and knitted stitch, but do not slip the stitch off the needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together stitch and yarn over 1 more time = 3 stitches
= from wrong side: decrease 2 stitches with colour-2 as follows: Slip the first yarn-over and purled stitch onto right needle as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e., 1 purl + stitch and yarn over), pass the slipped stitch and yarn- over over the knitted-together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased)
= from wrong side: decrease 2 stitches with colour-2 as follows: Slip first stitch and yarn over onto right needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the purled stitch, slip the stitch back onto left needle, pass stitch and yarn-over over the stitch placed back on left needle, then to finish slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased)
= from wrong side: knit 2 stitches (and 1 yarn over, if on last round the stitch was worked in English rib) together.
= from wrong side: increase 2 stitches with colour-2 by working 3 stitches in knitted stitch as follows: knit 1, but do not slip the stitch off the needle, 1 yarn over right needle and knit 1 in same stitch 1 more time = 3 stitches
= knitting direction







Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Randi Lervik 11.05.2020 - 16:10:

Jeg vil gjerne ha hjelp fra en av dere som har strikket denne jakken. Nå har jeg rekket opp 5 ganger og har egentlig gitt opp å få til jakken. Men jeg har strikket i mange år og aldri stått fast før så jeg gir meg ikke enda. Er det en av dere her inne som kan være min mentor :) ?

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 10:13:

Hei Randi. Vi skal hjelpe deg så godt vi kan. Fint om du kort kan forklarer hva du har problemer med, husk å skrive hvilken størrelse det gjelder. Se gjerne igjennom spørsmål og svar under, kanskje noen har hatt samme problem og fått svar. Ta også en titt på hjelpevideoene til denne jakken, kanskje det kan hjelpe. mvh DROPS design

Aud Sveen 12.03.2020 - 13:33:

Hurra! Nå forstår jeg økningene. Kanskje det er lurt å gjøre oppmerksom på i strikketipsene at økningen inngår i mønsteret. Kan kanskje være flere enn meg som ikke er så rutinerte at de skjønner det?! Takk for hjelpen!

Aud Sveen 11.02.2020 - 22:16:

Jeg står fortsatt fast ved første økning i diagrammet A.1B. Den forklaringen jeg fikk, ser for meg ut som en del av mønsteret (med symbol svart). Ved første økning vises det to masker mer på hver side - uten at det er beskrevet hvordan dette skal gjøres.

DROPS Design 12.02.2020 kl. 08:12:

Hej Aud, første øgning i diagrammet er en del af mønsteret....

Antje Tiekstra 01.02.2020 - 12:05:

Ik brei 201-29 en heb nu de boord met naturel gebreid .Wil nu verder met pas . Hoe weet ik nu wat kleur 1 en kleur 2 zijn. En moet je patroon b en c over elkaar heen breien , zo ja hoe doe je dat. Vind nl het patroon moeilijk te lezen. Terwijl ik vaak gebreid heb. Dank u voor de hulp

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 23:54:

Dag Antje,

Bovenaan in het patroon bij 'STREPEN' staat wat kleur 1 en kleur 2 is. (Dit hangt dus af van welke streep je aan het breien bent.) Als je A.1b hebt gebreid, dan brei je A.1c daar achteraan. Niet over elkaar, maar boven elkaar :), dus ze sluiten in de hoogte op elkaar aan.

Floor 08.01.2020 - 16:31:

Een mooi patroon!\r\nIk ben van plan dit te breien voor een vriendin alleen zij heeft een erg tenger postuur dus een maat s zal ruim uitvallen voor haar. Hebben jullie enig idee hoe ik de verhoudingen van het patroon zo moet aanpassen dat het een maat kleiner uitvalt? Alvast bedankt!

Marijke 29.12.2019 - 11:44:

Ik ben aangeland bij de eerste minderingen van A.1B, op de verkeerde kant. Ik begrijp de beschrijving niet goed, vooral het tweede deel. Welke ‘steek plus omslag’ haal je de tweede keer over? De volgende op de linkernaald? Het resultaat lijkt niet mooi op de goede kant (wel op de verkeerde!). Ik kan geen tutorial vinden voor minderen op de verkeerde kant....alleen op de goede kant.

DROPS Design 04.01.2020 kl. 19:43:

Dag Marijke,

Nadat je de steek weer op de linker naald hebt gezet, haal je inderdaad de 2 steken die daarnaast op de linker naald staan over de zojuist geplaatste steek. Daarna ze je de steek weer terug op de rechter naald. Kan het zijn dat je die laatste terugplaatsing gedraaid hebt gedaan, waardoor het er niet mooi uitziet op de voorkant? Helaas is er geen video van.

Kristin 22.12.2019 - 09:56:

Hei! Jeg har akkurat begynt på jakken, men synes det er litt vanskelig, selv om jeg har strikket ganske mye. Jeg lurer på når det står at man skal skyve alle maskene tilbake til andre enden. Må jeg da kutte tråden? Jeg tok alle maskene tilbake, men da er jo tråden på andre siden.

DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 14:10:

Hej Kristin, jo men du strikker med flere farver og nøster. Læs stykket med STRIPER :)

Aud Sveen 16.12.2019 - 20:43:

Jeg strever fortsatt. Har altså kommet til den første økningen på diagrammet, hvor det skal økes to m. på hver side av hver mønsterrapport. Jeg er ikke i stand til å finne noen beskrivelse på hvordan dette gjøres. Hverken video eller økebeskrivelse passer på det jeg skal gjøre synes jeg. Det står ett sted at alle økninger skal foretas fra retten. Men diagrammet sier at økningspinnen skal strikkes fra vrangen??? Håper på godt svar denne gangen også!! Takk!

DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 11:45:

Hej, Jo du øger ifølge diagrammet, symbolet er sort og således står det i symbolforklaringen: = fra vrangen: øk 2 masker med farge-2 slik: Strikk 3 masker i rettmasken og kastet slik: Strikk kastet og rettmasken rett sammen, men vent med å løfte masken av pinnen, lag 1 kast om høyre pinne og strikk masken og kastet rett sammen 1 gang til = 3 masker

Aud Sveen 25.11.2019 - 23:11:

Jeg er nå kommet til den første økningen i diagrammet A.1B - (etter 11 pinner oppover). Lurer på om jeg skal øke 2 masker på hver side - av HVER mønsterrapport? Eller bare 2 masker mellom mønsterrapportene?

DROPS Design 26.11.2019 kl. 07:35:

Hei Aud, Du skal øke 2 masker på hver side av hver mønsterrapport. God fornøyelse!

Aud Sveen 19.11.2019 - 18:02:

Det tar litt tid for meg dette. Har rekkket opp flere ganger, men har nå forstått mønsteret : - fram til første økning. Prøvd å lese hele men ikke funnet svar på følgende: betyr anvisningen i diagrammet at det skal økes 2 masker på hver side av hver mønsterrapport (A.1B) ?

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 14:08:

Hei Aud. På raden der du begynner på A.1B strikkes du 5 masker i rillestolper, A.1B startes med diagrammet ikonet - firkant inni en firkant, som er en patent maske, altså ingen økning. God Fornøyelse!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 201-29

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.