DROPS / 199 / 6

Dear to my Heart by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-168
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 23, grey blue
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 30, mustard

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6-6-7-7-7-7 items.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the jacket slightly higher at the back of the neck when working the yoke, work an elevation as described below. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row (in sizes S, XL, XXL and XXXL the marker is inserted in the middle stitch on the row). Start from the right side with off white and knit 14-15-16-16-17-18 stitches past the marker/stitch with marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 29-30-32-33-35-37stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 43-45-48-49-52-55 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 57-60-64-65-69-73 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 71-75-80-81-86-91 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl to end of row (band is worked in garter stitch). Then work YOKE as described in text.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count all the stitches on the needle (e.g. 120 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 17) = 6.5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 6th and 7th stitch (do not increase on bands). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase the same way at the second marker thread. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

KNITTING TIP-1 (for bands):
When working pattern with 2 colours, work the 5 stitches in both bands with the background colour of the pattern.

KNITTING TIP-2:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important not to have tight strands at the back. You can increase the needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes with 8-8½-7½-7½-8-8½ cm between each.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with a larger needle size. Or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for sleeves and body. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 120-124-128-132-136-140 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and mustard. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Change to off white and work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. Remember BUTTONHOLE on right band – read description above.
When the rib is finished changed to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 17-20-30-17-25-27 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 137-144-158-149-161-167 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands are worked in garter stitch). Now you can work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP-2!
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch with off white, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on row (= 18-19-21-23-25-26 repeats of 7-7-7-6-6-6 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch and off white. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above.
When A.1 has been completed there are 299-315-347-379-411-427 stitches on the row. Continue with stocking stitch and grey blue, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. The next row is worked as follows: Work 48-51-55-60-66-69 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 59-61-69-75-79-81 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-10-10-10-12-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 85-91-99-109-121-127 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 59-61-69-75-79-81 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-10-10-10-12-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 48-51-55-60-66-69 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 197-213-229-249-277-297 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 52-56-60-65-72-77 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 93-101-109-119-133-143 stitches between the marker threads on the back piece. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work stocking stitch back and forth with grey blue and with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front. When the piece measures 4 cm from the division in all sizes, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 8 cm a total of 3 times on each side = 209-225-241-261-289-309 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 22 cm from the division in all sizes (or to desired length; there is 3 cm left to finished length).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch) where you increase 39-39-47-47-55-63 stitches evenly spaced = 248-264-288-308-344-372 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 59-61-69-75-79-81 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-10-10-12-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 67-71-79-85-91-97 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-10-10-10-12-16 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with grey blue.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 4½-3½-2½-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 9-11-14-14-17-20 times = 49-49-51-57-57-57 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 40-39-37-36-34-33 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 6 cm left to finished length, decreases are finished mid under sleeve and there are shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke).
Knit 1 round with grey blue where you decrease 1-1-3-1-1-1 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-48-56-56-56 stitches. Work A.2 in the round (= 6-6-6-7-7-7 repeats of 8 stitches). When A.2 is finished knit 1 round with off white where you decrease 0-0-0-4-4-0 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-48-52-52-56 stitches. There is now 3 cm left to finished length; if you want a longer sleeve continue with off white to desired length. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Change to mustard and work 1 round of rib. Then cast off with mustard and knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 46-45-43-42-40-39 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

= off white
= grey blue
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background colour in the pattern; on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Erica Branchi 15.01.2019 - 09:55:

Molto bello ed originale il ricamo a cuore!!!

Lisbeth G Tørvi 12.01.2019 - 15:05:

Denne jakka var veldig fin🤗 Kan godt tenke meg å strikke denne👍

Ann M. 11.01.2019 - 20:08:

This is a lovely sweater. Thank you.

Barrussaud Catherine 11.01.2019 - 15:26:

Amour tout simplement

Lisbeth Hogndal 02.01.2019 - 15:12:

Nydelig jakke og ikke for mye mønster. Fin fargekombinasjon

Inger Marit Lien 18.12.2018 - 09:44:

Kjempefin jakke.

Hjertejakken 18.12.2018 - 09:38:

Kjempefin jakke.

Sylvia 16.12.2018 - 11:14:

Sehr schöner Cardigan, probably named "HeartPiece" ?

Colin 15.12.2018 - 21:34:

Coeur d'amour

Gry Elise 14.12.2018 - 01:22:

Veldig søt jakke, genser

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