DROPS / 196 / 29

Green Wood by DROPS Design

Knitted fitted jumper in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked in stocking stitch with raglan and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-141
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 7820, green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: for cables.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 2.85 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 2.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.95£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 264 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 64) = 4.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body): 
Start 5 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeve):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves (i.e. decrease on each side of A.2) = 8 stitches decreased each time.
Decrease as follows before A.2: Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.2, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after A.2: slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT SUMMARY OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. Then the body and sleeves are placed on the same circular needle and the yoke is worked in the round to finished length.

BODY:
Cast on 264-292-320-352-388-424 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 64-72-80-88-96-104 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 200-220-240-264-292-320 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 6 cm in all sizes, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 100-110-120-132-146-160 stitches (= in the sides). On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 5 times in each side = 180-200-220-244-272-300 stitches on the needle.
When the piece measures 20 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 2 cm a total of 5 times in each side = 200-220-240-264-292-320 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 30 cm in all sizes. On the next round cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches in each side for the armholes (i.e. cast off 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of both marker threads). There are now 90-100-108-120-132-144 stitches left on front and back pieces.
Lay the piece to one side and work sleeves as described below.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles, change to short circular needle when necessary.
Cast on 56-60-60-64-68-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 10-12-10-12-12-10 stitches evenly on round = 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 8 cm in all sizes, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). On the next round increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 9-9-11-10-11-7 times and then every 1 cm a total of 5-9-11-13-13-18 times = 74-84-94-98-104-108 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 45-44-42-41-39-37 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). On the next round cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid under sleeve for the armhole (i.e. cast off 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 64-74-82-86-90-92 stitches left on needle. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on same circular needle as the body, where you cast off stitches for the armholes (do this without working the stitches) = 308-348-380-412-444-472 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in each transition between body and sleeves = 4 markers. Imagine that the garment is on the body and start the round by the marker in the transition between back piece and left arm, i.e. start 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches before this marker and work the first round as follows: Work A.1 (= 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches which increase to 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches), work stocking stitch over the sleeve until there are 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches left before the next marker, work A.1 (= 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches which increase to 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches), stocking stitch over the front piece until there are 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches left before the next marker. Work A.1 (= 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches which increase to 23-23-23-25-25-25 stitches), stocking stitch over the sleeve until there are 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches left before the next marker, work A.1 (= 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches which increase to 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches) and stocking stitch over the back piece to the end of the round = 332-372-404-444-476-504 stitches on the needle.
Continue the pattern like this, but when A.1 has been completed work A.2 over the 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches in each raglan line (due to the pattern the number of stitches in A.2 will vary between 23 and 21 stitches in sizes S, M and L and between 27 and 25 stitches in XL, XXL and XXXL).
AT THE SAME TIME on the round where you start A.2 begin to decrease to RAGLAN in each transition between body and sleeves – read description above. Continue to decrease to raglan every 4th round a total of 9-8-8-8-8-9 times and then every 2nd round a total of 11-16-19-22-25-26 times.
After the last decrease there are 172-180-188-204-212-224 stitches left on the needle and the piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
On the next round knit over knit and purl over purl AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches evenly over A.2 in each raglan line = 148-156-164-172-180-192 stitches left on needle.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 24-28-32-32-36-40 evenly on round – remember DECREASE TIP-1 = 124-128-132-140-144-152 stitches. Then work neck as described below.

NECK:
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= this square has no stitch because the stitch was decreased earlier; go directly to next symbol in diagram.
= knit 3, pass the first stitch knitted over the 2 last stitches so that it lies around the other 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased)
= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= knit 1 both in front and back of same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Christel 05.12.2019 - 19:53:

Äntligen en modell som stickas nerifrån och upp! Går det att översätta beskrivningen till Puna, garngrupp B?

DROPS Design 06.12.2019 kl. 08:02:

Hej Christel, garngruppe B er tykkere end A og hvis du strikker blusen i Puna med 21 m på 10 cm, så vil blusen blive 14% større. Vi kan desværre ikke hjælpe dig med at regne opskriften om, men du kan jo evt vælge en størrelse mindre... :)

Alice 03.12.2019 - 18:51:

Hallo ik begrijp iets niet goed (denk ik) in verband met de mindering van de armsgaten van de mouwen, doe ik deze mindering bij het breien van de mouw of tijdens het plaatsen van de mouw op de rondbreinaald van voor en achterpand, daar er staat in het patroon voor het maken van de PAS : plaats de mouwen op dezelfde rondbreinaald als het lijf, terwijl u steken afkanten voor de armsgaten, doe dit zonder de steken te breien? Ik brei de M maat. Vriendelijke groet en dank bij voorbaat. Alice

DROPS Design 05.12.2019 kl. 20:05:

Dag Alice,

Er stond een vertaalfoutje in. Er moet staan waar steken zijn afgekant, in plaats van terwijl u steken afkant. Waarschijnlijk zorgde dit voor de verwarring, het is nu aangepast!

Alice Dingemans 23.11.2019 - 14:05:

Kan ik deze trui ook verdraaid rechte tricot breien in plaats van rechte tricot. Vriendelijke groeten en dank bij voorbaat. Alice Dingemans

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 09:28:

Dag Alice,

Jazeker, dat kan. Maak evt. even een proeflapje om te kijken of de stekenverhouding dan nog klopt.

Inge 28.10.2019 - 16:44:

Hej igen og mange tak for svaret. Mht. forhøjning bag henviser du til andre af jeres modeller. Umiddelbart kan jeg ikke finde nogen. Kan du give mig et eksempel, hvor blusen er strikket nedefra?

DROPS Design 29.10.2019 kl. 12:11:

Hej igen Inge, se gerne vores video og eller DROPS 165-14

How to knit an elevation mid back from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Inge 27.10.2019 - 11:48:

Det ser ikke ud som om blusen er strikket højere bagpå? Kan det lade sig gøre at strikke den højere bagpå og hvordan?

DROPS Design 28.10.2019 kl. 12:41:

Hej Inge, nej det stemmer, denne bluse er ikke strikket med forhøjning bagpå. Hvis du vil ændre på modellen, kan du jo evt sætte et mærke i midterste maske bagpå og så følge en forhøjning fra en af vores andre modeller.... God fornøjelse

Carol Flaherty 14.09.2019 - 20:45:

This pattern was a pleasure to work with. What I liked especially is the constant # of stitches we should have after doing something. The final results was a sweater that fit and looked great on. Thanks

Katja 05.09.2019 - 08:22:

Jeg liker formen på genseren veldig godt, men er ikke så ivrig på å strikke flettemønster.... Kan jeg bare strikke glattstrikk der hvor fletta skulle være? På forhånd tusen takk!

DROPS Design 05.09.2019 kl. 09:27:

Hei Katja, Det kan du gjøre. God fornøyelse!

Anny 11.04.2019 - 16:32:

Warum werden nach dem Bündchen soviele Maschen abgenommen? Normalerweise werden doch eher Maschen zugenommen? Liebe Grüsse

DROPS Design 12.04.2019 kl. 08:29:

Liebe Anny, Das Rippenmuster ist elastischer und zieht sich z.B. im Vergleich zum Glatt-rechts-Gestrick zusammen. Wenn nach dem Rippenmuster-Rand abgenommen wird, kann man damit vermeiden, dass der Rand deutlich enger wird als das restliche Rumpfteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Dorota 25.02.2019 - 09:05:

Dziękuję, tak zrobiłam, ale karczek wyszedł mi zdecydowanie za krótki.

Linda 24.02.2019 - 17:56:

Hei! Akkurat ferdig m genseren. Den ble fin men er litt kort i lengden, kortere enn på bildet. Jeg bruker normal str. Ville strikket lengre bol :) ( Jeg hadde riktig maskeant pr cm.)

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