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Forest Fling by DROPS Design

Knitted stole with leaves in DROPS Delight. The piece is worked in garter stitch with short rows.

Keywords: domino, garter stitch, leaf pattern, madame, sideways, stole

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DROPS Design: Pattern no de-193
Yarn group A
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Measurements:
Width: approx. 42 cm
Length: approx. 162 cm
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250 g colour 08, green/beige

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 41 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 		from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.50£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
All rows are knitted (1 ridge = knit 2 rows).

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagram A.1 shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. Diagram A.1 is read from left to right on all rows from the wrong side. All rows from the right side are read from right to left.
Diagram A.2 shows the leaves as well as the knitting direction and order of rows.

COLOUR SUGGESTION:
To mix and change the pattern of colours while you work, you can change balls or use yarn from the other end of the ball each time you start a new row of leaves. Change colour before each START-ROW 1 and START-ROW 2 are worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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STOLE - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle; from the one corner, diagonally upwards in rows with different numbers of leaves.
Short rows are worked over one leaf at a time. The whole piece is worked in GARTER STITCH – read description above. Markers are used, inserted between and in the middle of leaves as you work. The markers are on the needle and will follow your work upwards. They make it easier to see where the leaves are to be worked. Read also COLOUR SUGGESTION in description above.

STOLE:
Cast on 36 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Delight. Then work as follows:

ROW 1: Work LEAF A as follows:

LEAF A:
Work diagram A.1; the first row in the diagram is from the wrong side – read description above under pattern. Work the diagram 1 time in height = 1 leaf. The first row of leaves is now finished, turn the piece.
In the transition between rows 1 and 2 with leaves, work START-ROW 1 as follows:

START-ROW 1:
From the right side: Cast off the first 18 stitches with knit, knit 18 stitches. Turn the piece, knit 18 stitches, insert 1 marker on the needle here and cast on 18 new stitches at the end of the row from the wrong side. Turn the piece and knit to end of row from the right side, insert a marker on the needle here. Cast on 36 new stitches at the end of the row. Now you are ready to work the next row of leaves. Turn the piece.

ROW 2. Work LEAVES B, C and D as follows:

LEAF B:
Work diagram A.1 over the first 36 stitches on the needle (as far as the first marker seen from the wrong side). Work the diagram 1 time in height (you have now worked as far as the same marker again). Turn the piece, knit 36 stitches from the right side. Turn the piece, knit 18 stitches from the wrong side, insert 1 marker on the needle here, do not turn the piece; the next leaf is worked over the next 36 stitches.

LEAF C:
Work diagram A.1 over the next 36 stitches on the needle (past one marker and as far as the next). Work the diagram 1 time in height. Turn the piece and knit 36 stitches from the right side. Turn the piece, knit 18 stitches from the wrong side (as far as the marker in the middle of the leaf), do not turn the piece; the next leaf is worked over the next 36 stitches.

LEAF D:
Work diagram A.1 over the last 36 stitches on the needle (past the last marker and to end of row). Work the diagram 1 time in height. You have now worked 3 leaves and 2 rows of leaves are finished.

Work START-ROW 1 – read description above, in the transition between rows 2 and 3 of leaves.

ROW 3: Work LEAF B over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C a total of 3 times in width, work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 5 leaves on the row) and work START-ROW 1 in the transition between rows 3 and 4 of leaves.

ROW 4: Work LEAF B over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C a total of 5 times in width, work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 7 leaves on the row) and work START-ROW 1 in the transition between rows 4 and 5 of leaves.

ROW 5: Work LEAF B over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C a total of 7 times in width and work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 9 leaves on the row). NOTE! START-ROW 1 is not worked anymore from here; you work START-ROW 2 in the transition between rows 5 and 6 of leaves as follows:

START-ROW 2:
From the right side: Cast off the first 36 stitches with knit, knit to end of row, insert 1 marker on the row here. Cast on 36 new stitches at the end of the row and insert 1 marker on the row here. Now you are ready for the next row of leaves which are worked from here. Turn the piece.

ROW 6: Work LEAF B over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C a total of 7 times in width, work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 9 leaves) and work START-ROW 2 in the transition between rows 6 and 7 of leaves.

ROW 7: Work LEAF B over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C a total of 7 times in width, work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 9 leaves) and work START-ROW 2 in the transition between rows 7 and 8 of leaves.

ROW 8: Work LEAF B over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C a total of 7 times in width, work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 9 leaves) and work START-ROW 2 in the transition between rows 8 and 9 of leaves.

ROW 9: Work LEAF E as follows:

LEAF E:
Work diagram A.1 over the first 36 stitches (as far as the first marker on the needle seen from the wrong side). Work the diagram 1 time in height (you have now worked as far as the same marker again). Turn the piece. Knit 36 stitches from the right side. Turn the piece, cast off 18 stitches from the wrong side. Turn the piece, insert 1 marker on the needle here and cast on 18 new stitches from the right side. Turn the piece, knit 18 stitches from the wrong side. Do not turn the piece as the next leaf is worked over the next 36 stitches from here. Work LEAF C a total of 7 times in width and work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 9 leaves on the row). Turn the piece, cast off the first 36 stitches with knit from the right side. Knit to end of row from the right side.

ROW 10: Work LEAF E over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C a total of 5 times in width and work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 7 leaves on the row). Turn the piece, cast off the first 36 stitches with knit from the right side. Knit to end of row from the right side.

ROW 11: Work LEAF E over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C a total of 3 times in width and work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 5 leaves on the row). Turn the piece, cast off the first 36 stitches from the right side. Knit to end of row from the right side.

ROW 12: Work LEAF E over the first 36 stitches, work LEAF C 1 time in width and work LEAF D over the last 36 stitches (= 3 leaves). Turn the piece, cast off the first 36 stitches with knit from the right side. Knit to end of row from the right side.

ROW 13: Work LEAF E over the last 36 stitches, but when diagram A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, cast off all stitches from the right side. Cut and fasten the strands.

Diagram

symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = knit from right side
symbols = shows direction of the rows and which number each row has
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Merete wrote:

Super sjov opskrift. Men jeg er nået til blad E, og jeg er usikker på måden det skal strikkes. Når jeg læser opskriften, synes jeg det virker som om, jeg skal strikke to blade direkte ovenpå hinanden (det er de to første sætninger, der forvirrer mig ). Er det korrekt læst? Det virker nemlig lidt mystisk, synes jeg , da resten af mønstret har bladene forskudt.

16.07.2020 - 06:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Merete, jo du ser i diagram A.2 nederst at efter række 9 hvor du strikker E, fortsætter du med 10 som også er E. God fornøjelse!

30.07.2020 kl. 14:46

country flag Mp 54 wrote:

Bonjour, mes feuilles sont bombées au milieu, alors que sur le modèle, elles paraissent plates Pouvez me dire où est mon erreur? Merci

09.03.2019 - 00:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mp54, il est possible que vous vous soyez trompée dans les rangs raccourcis de ces feuilles, quand elles sont terminées, elles doivent être toutes plates. N'hésitez pas à montrer votre ouvrage (même en photo par mail) à votre magasin, il lui sera plus facile de vous aider. Bon tricot!

11.03.2019 kl. 09:27

country flag Mp 54 wrote:

Bonjour, mes feuilles sont bombées au milieu, alors que sur le modèle, elles paraissent plates Pouvez me dire où est mon erreur? Merci

08.03.2019 - 20:44

country flag Anette wrote:

Eine sehr schöne Anleitung, die ich schon zweimal mit der angegebenen Wolle gestrickt habe. Leider benötigte ich bei jeder Version etwas mehr als 250 g Wolle.

22.11.2018 - 11:45

country flag Zaza wrote:

Bonjour j avoue ne pas trop saisir le debut du travail , j ai monte 36 mailles, tricote 36 mailles end, apres je bloque..je sais lire un diagramme' pourriez vous m aider pour tricoter le diagramme en entier et que j ai la premiere feuille sur mes aiguilles merci d avance zaza

22.10.2018 - 12:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Zaza, bien volontiers, lisez le 1er rang du diagramme sur l'envers = 36 m endroit, puis tricotez 18 mailles end sur l'end, tournez et tricotez 16 m end sur l'env, tournez, tricotez 18 m end sur l'end, tournez, et ainsi de suite. Au 22ème rang, tricotez 16 m end, tournez et tricotez 18 m end,, tournez et tricotez 16 m end, tournez et tricotez 18 m end et ainsi de suite jusqu'à la fin du diagramme. Bon tricot!

22.10.2018 kl. 14:17

country flag Mobsi wrote:

Ein sehr schönes Tuch! Eine total kurzweilige Strickweise, da man meist nur über 16 bis 18 Maschen strickt. So können das auch meine Rheumahände noch schaffen. Ich hab meine Sockenwollreste verstrick, 6 zusammenpassende Farben (4mal uni,2mal für Mustersocken), bei jedem Blatt ein Farbwechsel. Ich hab das Tuch um eine Reihe verbreitert. Das erste Stück seit langem, mit dem ich selbst zufrieden bin. Danke für diese TOLLE Anleitung

08.10.2018 - 12:23

country flag Tina Joelsen wrote:

Error: QueryCheckIfExists: Table 'garnstud_garnstudio.drops_oppskrift_tekst_dk' doesn't exist Jeg får denne besked når jeg forsøger at udskrive opskriften! Kunne det tænkes at der foreligger en fejl! Tak for et fantastisk site i øvrigt :) Mvh Tina Joelsen

13.09.2018 - 16:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, vi har lige prøvet at skrive den ud og det gik helt fint. Lav en restart og prøv igen. God fornøjelse!

19.09.2018 kl. 14:31

country flag Pam T. wrote:

Striking!! A real attention grabber!

08.08.2018 - 00:08

country flag Gitte Trab wrote:

Super flot men ærgeligt jeg ikke kan strikke den for kan ikke strikke efter diagram

04.08.2018 - 14:58

Jessica wrote:

Hi! Are we working short rows on the end of each row, for example I knit 18 for row 2, then wrap and turn, then do I knit 16 for row 3 and wrap and turn again?

24.07.2018 - 16:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jessica, there is no wrap and turn, just turn without wrap in the short rows to create holes in the middle of the leaf. On row 2, you knit 18 sts from RS, turn and K 16 sts from RS (row 3), then turn and work 18 sts from RS, turn and work 16 sts from WS and so on until row 20 & 21 (= K18 sts both from RS and from WS), then work *16 sts from RS, 18 sts from WS*, repeat from *-* until you reach the marker. Happy knitting!

24.07.2018 kl. 16:10

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