DROPS / 194 / 15

Cloud Chasing by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan in 3 strands DROPS Melody. The piece is worked top down with high neck and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ml-025
Yarn group D + D + D
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 01, off white
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 02, fog
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 07, dark jeans blue

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
7 stitches in width and 8 rows in height with stocking stitch and 3 strands held together = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 15 MM: length 60 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 12 MM - for rib on neck.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 12 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 3.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP-1:
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, (marker thread sits here), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for the sleeves):
NOTE: So that the decreases are alternately on the right and left side of the piece decrease as follows:
In sizes S, M and L, decrease alternately at the beginning and end of the rows with decreases.
In sizes XL, XXL and XXXL, decrease at the beginning of each row with decreases (alternately from right and wrong side).
Decrease as follows from the right side: Knit 2 together.
Decrease as follows from the wrong side: Purl 2 stitches together.

MAGIC LOOP:
If you are working in the round with a circular needle which is too long for the number of stitches, you can work as follows: The circular needle must be long and have a flexible wire. Push the stitches to the middle of the wire. Divide the stitches in the middle and pull the wire between the stitches. Push the stitches to the end of the needle on both sides; make sure the stitches are not twisted. The yarn strand you are working with is on the back needle and you begin working on the front needle. Pull out the back needle so that you can work the stitches on the front needle. When you have worked the front stitches, turn and push the stitches back onto the empty needle and work them in the same way. Continue like this in the round; make sure that you always pull out the needle on the side with the strand.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of each marker thread (= 8 stitches increased on round).
Increase as follows, start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (for body):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles to start with, then with circular needle and MAGIC LOOP until there are enough stitches to continue normally with circular needle length 60 or 80 cm. You work top down. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle

YOKE:
Cast on 40-40-44-44-48-52 stitches with double pointed needles size 12 mm and 1 strand of each colour (= 3 strands). Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) until the piece measures 9 cm. Insert 4 marker threads in the piece without working the stitches as follows: The first marker thread is inserted at the beginning of the round, the second after 14-14-16-16-18-20 stitches (= back piece), the third marker thread after 6 new stitches (= sleeve), and the fourth after 14-14-16-16-18-20 new stitches (= front piece); there are 6 stitches left on the round up to the first marker thread (= sleeve). Knit 1 round where you decrease 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 32-32-36-36-40-44 stitches. Change to circular needle size 15 mm, NOTE: In our collection of needles, the shortest circular needle is 60 cm in size 15 mm. You have now decreased stitches so that the circumference of the piece is less than 60 cm in sizes S - XXL. So continue with MAGIC LOOP – see description above, until you have enough stitches to use circular needle length 60 or 80 cm normally.
Work stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on round 2 start to increase to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase like this every 2nd round 8-10-10-11-12-14 times = 96-112-116-124-136-156 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Raglan-increases in sizes M, L, XXL and XXXL are now finished. In sizes S and XL work 1 more round where you increase 1 stitch on front and back pieces in the same way (do not increase on sleeves) = 4 stitches increased.
There are now 100-112-116-128-136-156 stitches on the round. The piece measures approx. 21-25-25-29-30-35 cm from below the rib and down. Continue without increasing for 3-0-2-1-0-0 more rounds. The piece measures approx. 25-25-28-30-30-35 cm from below the rib and down.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 30-32-34-38-40-46 stitches (= back piece), place the next 20-24-24-26-28-32 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 4-4-4-4-6-6 stitches under the sleeve, work 30-32-34-38-40-46 stitches (= front piece), place the next 20-24-24-26-28-32 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 4-4-4-4-6-6 stitches under the sleeve. Insert a marker thread in the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 68-72-76-84-92-104 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new cast-on stitches (= 2-2-2-2-3-3 new stitches on each side of the marker thread) and 34-36-38-42-46-52 stitches between marker threads on front and back pieces.
Now increase in the sides as follows – read INCREASE TIP:
When the piece measures 5 cm increase 1 stitch before each marker thread.
When the piece measures 8 cm increase 1 stitch after each marker thread.
When the piece measures 10 cm increase 1 stitch before each marker thread.
When the piece measures 12 cm increase 1 stitch after each marker thread.
There are now 76-80-84-92-100-112 stitches on the round.
Now continue working in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S, L, XL and XXL:
Continue in the round with stocking stitch until the piece measures 17-18-18-20 cm.

Sizes M and XXXL:
Continue in the round with stocking stitch until the piece measures 19-17 cm and at the same time increase as follows:
When the piece measures 14 cm increase 1 stitch before each marker thread.
When the piece measures 16 cm increase 1 stitch after each marker thread.

ALL SIZES:
There are now 76-84-84-92-100-116 stitches on the round. When the piece measures 17-19-18-18-20-17 cm place the 38-42-42-46-50-58 stitches for the back piece on a thread. Then work rib back and forth over the 38-42-42-46-50-58 stitches for the front piece. Change to circular needle size 12 mm and work as follows from the right side: 2 stitches GARTER STITCH - see description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 2 stitches garter stitch.
Continue like this until the rib measures 6 cm and the piece a total of 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Place the stitches from the thread (back piece) on circular needle size 12mm and work rib back and forth in the same way as for the front piece until the rib measures 12 cm. The split on the front piece is 6 cm long and the split on the back piece is 12 cm long. The piece measures a total of 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down measured on the back piece.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle and sewn together to finish. Place the 20-24-24-26-28-32 stitches from the one thread back on circular needle size 15 mm and cast on 2-2-2-2-3-3 new stitches in each side = 24-28-28-30-34-38 stitches. Work stocking stitch back and forth over all stitches. When the piece measures 4-4-2-4-4-2 cm decrease 1 stitch on the right-hand side of the piece – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease alternately on the left and right-hand side of the piece every 2nd-2nd-2nd-1st-1st-1st row 8-12-12-14-14-18 times (= 4-6-6-7-7-9 times in each side) = 16-16-16-16-20-20 stitches. When the piece measures 33-34-31-30-29-24 cm change to circular needle size 12 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so that the seam is flat. Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Katherine Sri 24.05.2020 - 02:58:

Hi I live in Australia and would like to knit the Cloud Chasing pattern and buy the wool and needles required. Do you ship to Australia and what would be the cost? I am a size 12 to 14, and would like the jumper to be loose fitting. Or do you have a stockist in Australia. I live in Queensland. Thank you.

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 09:28:

Dear Mrs Sri, you will find here DROPS stores shipping to Australia - please check their website/contact them for any further informations. Happy knitting!

Karlé Briedenhann 03.05.2020 - 09:20:

I would like to knit this garment in a small or medium size, but I only want to use 1 strand of wool. Which yarn group and what number needles would I have to use? Thank you very much.

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 12:37:

Dear Mrs Briedenman, you could use 1 strand Polaris instead (see here relevant patterns in Polaris, same tension) but texture would be different - read more alternatives here. Happy knitting!

Christine 19.02.2020 - 19:56:

Bonjour Je tricote l'empiècement. (M). J'ai terminé le raglan et dois tricoter le rang suivant. J'ai tricoté les 32 m. (Dos). J'ai glissé les 24 m. suivantes en attente. Je suis bloquée à ce stade du tricot. Est ce que je dois couper le fil pour monter les 4 m. . Ou est ce que je continue à tricoter en rond? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 08:04:

Bonjour Christine, après avoir mis les mailles de la manche en attente, vous allez monter les 4 mailles de l'emmanchure directement après les mailles du dos, puis tricoter les mailles du devant et répéter pour la 2ème manche. Cette leçon, photos 9 à 15 vous montre comment procéder - vous retrouvez cette technique dans cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

Alexandra Schoenit 24.01.2020 - 21:47:

Hi :) What size is the model in the photo wearing? I would like to knit this for my daughter. She is normally and extra small to small size, but would like it to be loose when wearing. Does the pattern allow for this, or would I have to knit a larger size, such as a medium or large to get the loose fitting effectr?

DROPS Design 24.01.2020 kl. 22:08:

Dear Alexandra, our models are mostly about size 38 (European size). You can also see the measurements of the finished piece on the schematic drawing at the bottom of the page. We would suggest that you take a sweater that is comfortable to the intended wearer and compare the measurements. Happy Knitting!

Deb 25.11.2019 - 20:50:

I want to knit the DROPS / 194 / 15 Cloud Chasing by DROPS Design. I have read the pattern three times & cannot figure out which size to make ( bust 36”, & how much yarn in each color do I need?

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 21:06:

Dear Deb, for sizing please refer to the schematics drawing at the bottom of the page. And you will need 3-4 balls of each color (depending on the size you want to knit. Happy Knitting!

Helene 14.09.2019 - 15:50:

Bonjour j'aimerais faire ce pull avec une laine moin pelucheuse...est-ce possible

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 11:00:

Bonjour Hélène, nous avons ajouté des alternatives possibles dans notre convertisseur; rappelez-vous toutefois que des fils de texture différente donneront un résultat différent - plus d'infos ici; n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone pour toute assistance personnalisé au choix d'une alternative. Bon tricot!

Lyse 26.07.2019 - 18:44:

Bonjour, pourriez-vous m'indiquer une alternative à la laine Melody pour tricoter ce pull ?

DROPS Design 26.07.2019 kl. 23:12:

Bonjour Lyse! 3 fils de DROPS Melody peuvent etre remplaces par 6 fils de DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. L'effet sera le plus proche. Bon tricot!

AnneSofie 19.02.2019 - 20:32:

Vilket garn kan jag använda istället för drops melody till detta mönster? Tack på förhand Mvh Ann-Sofie

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 15:20:

Hei Anne-Sofie. Det er strikkefastheten som avgjør hvilke garn som kan byttes med hverandre. Melody tilhører garngruppe D, og det er ingne andre garn i denne gruppen. Her skal det i tillegg strikkes med 3 tråder Melody, men du kan alternativt strikke med 6 tråder med garn fra garngruppe B. For andre kombinasjoner kan de lese mer her. God fornøyelse

Nina 14.01.2019 - 11:45:

Liebes Drops Team, der Garnumrechner hat leider nicht funktioniert. Ich schau aber, ob ich einen Online Laden finde, wo ich die Wolle bestellen kann. Viele Grüße, Natascha

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 13:03:

Liebe Nina, hier lesen Sie mehr über die Garnalternativen und die verschiedenen Garngruppe - aber DROPS Melody finden Sie sowieso bei Ihrem DROPS Laden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nina 12.01.2019 - 22:18:

Liebes DROPS Team. da es die oben angegebene Wolle nicht mehr gibt - welche könnte ich denn ersatzweise nehmen? Danke! HG, Ninas

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 10:37:

Liebe Nina, DROPS Melody ist nicht ausgelaufen, die finden Sie immer bei Ihrem DROPS Laden - sollten Sie eine Alternative benutzen, gerne können Sie unseren Garnumrechner benutzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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