DROPS / 194 / 22

Autumn Blush by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with false English rib and displacements in DROPS Eskimo. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ee-640
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
650-700-750-850-950-1000 g colour 36, amethyst

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
9 stitches in width and 10 rows vertically (counted in knit stitch from right side) with false English rib = 10 x 10 cm.
10 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 mm, length 40 and 60 or 80 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are done from the right side.
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until 2 stitches remain, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased in total). Knit yarn overs twisted on next row to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Finish front and back piece separately. Work sleeves back and forth on needle.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 78-84-90-96-108-114 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 9 mm with Eskimo. Work first row as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, * knit 1, purl 2 together *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain, finish with knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 53-57-61-65-73-77 stitches. Then work as follows from wrong side (read diagrams from left towards right): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the next 12-14-16-18-22-24 stitches, A.2 (= 26 stitches), A.1 over the next 13-15-17-19-23-25 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. I.e. pattern begins and ends with 1 knit stitch in false English rib inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece, seen from right side. Continue pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 48-50-50-52-52-54 cm (approx. 10-10-12-12-14-14 cm remain), work A.1 over all stitches (i.e. pattern continues straight up without displacements).
On next row from right side cast off the middle 11-11-11-15-15-15 stitches for neck with knit over knit and purl over purl (1 yarn over and 1 knit stitch = 1 stitch) = 21-23-25-25-29-31 stitches on each shoulder.
Stitch closest to the neck on each shoulder should now be a purl stitch from right side. Now finish each shoulder separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
On next row from the neck (= right side) work as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, slip yarn over and 1 stitch off the needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass yarn over and stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), work the rest of row as before. Decrease like this on every row from right side 4 times in total = 17-19-21-21-25-27 stitches. Work until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm in total. On next row from right side cast off. Knit together yarn overs and knit stitches while casting off and purl the purl stitches while casting off.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as right shoulder by decrease for neck at the end of every row from right side as follows: Work as before until 3 stitches remain (yarn over is not counted as stitch), knit purl stitch, yarn over and knit stitch together (= 1 stitch decreased) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 78-84-90-96-108-114 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 9 mm with Eskimo. Work first row as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 together *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain, finish with knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 53-57-61-65-73-77 stitches. Then work as follows from wrong side (read diagram from left towards right): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 1 stitch remains and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. I.e. pattern begins and ends with 1 knit stitch in false English rib inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece, seen from right side. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm (approx. 4 cm remain), cast off the middle 19-19-19-23-23-23 stitches for neck with knit over knit and purl over purl (1 yarn over and 1 knit stitch = 1 stitch) = 17-19-21-21-25-27 stitches on each shoulder. Stitch closest to the neck on each shoulder should now be a purl stitch from right side. Now finish each shoulder separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work pattern as before 1 stitch in garter stitch closest to the neck until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm in total. Cast off on next row from right side. Knit together yarn overs and knit stitches while casting off and purl the purl stitches while casting off.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as right shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 35-35-38-38-41-41 stitches on circular needle size 9 mm with Eskimo.
Work first row as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 together *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains, finish 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 24-24-26-26-28-28 stitches. Then work as follows from wrong side (read diagram from left towards right): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 1 stitch remains and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until piece measures 10 cm, adjust to finish with last row from right side. Now work piece in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece. When piece measures 12 cm, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch and 1 stitch in each side of piece - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 4-3½-3½-3-2½-2 cm 8-9-9-10-10-11 times in total = 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches. Cast off when piece measures 45-44-43-42-38-37 cm. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves (= approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm down from shoulder seams) and sew sleeve seams and side seams inside 1 edge stitch until approx. 12 cm remain (= vent).

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 44 to 56 stitches along neck edge (make sure to avoid a tight edge, pick up more stitches if needed), adjust so that number of stitches is divisible by 2. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 1). Work 2 rounds in total, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.01.2019
Correction - symbol number 5 in symbol definition: slip the knit stitch and the yarn over on to right needle as if to knit. Knit together: 1 purl stitch, 1 yarn over and 1 knit stitch (= 3 stitches, including the yarn over) pass yarn over and knit stitch slipped on to right needle over the stitches knitted together (= 2 stitches decreased)

Diagram

= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= 1 yarn over, slip 1 purl stitch on to right needle purlwise (= from wrong side)
= knit yarn over and knit stitch together (= from right side)
= work 3 stitches in knit stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit the yarn over and the knit stitch together but do not drop the yarn over and the knit stitch worked of the left needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit the knit stitch and the yarn over together 1 more time and then drop the stitches of the left needle = 3 stitches including yarn over (= 2 stitches increased)
= slip the knit stitch and the yarn over on to right needle as if to knit. Knit together: 1 purl stitch, 1 yarn over and 1 knit stitch (= 3 stitches, including the yarn over) pass yarn over and knit stitch slipped on to right needle over the stitches knitted together (= 2 stitches decreased)
= knit 1 yarn over, 1 knit stitch, 1 purl stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 knit stitch (= 5 stitches, including yarn overs) together (= 2 stitches decreased)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

Marjo Bodewes 29.09.2019 - 19:21:

Goedenavond, In het telpatroon A2 staat bij de 4e pen een ster. In de beschrijving komt deze niet voor Kunt u mij vertellen wat deze ster betekent. Alvast mijn dank,

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 16:24:

Dag Marjo,

Deze staat uitgelegd naast de ster bij de lijst met symboolverklaringen.

Veronique 02.06.2019 - 18:21:

Bonjour, Pourquoi des fausses cotes anglaises ? Le faire en vraies cotes anglaises changerait quoi? et faire le dos et le devant en circulaire eviterait de faire les coutures de cotés...

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 10:17:

Bonjour Véronique, c'est ainsi que la styliste a conçu ce modèle, vous pouvez naturellement tout à fait le modifier à votre guise. Bon tricot!

Delphine 22.02.2019 - 16:03:

Bonjour, Très joli pull que je souhaiterai réaliser, peux ton réaliser cet ouvrage avec des aiguilles fixes ? Merci

DROPS Design 22.02.2019 kl. 16:40:

Bonjour Delphine, seul le col de ce modèle se tricote en rond, le devant, le dos et les manches se tricotent en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour toutes les mailles, vous pouvez donc utiliser des aiguilles droites, veillez juste à bien conserver la bonne tension car vos mailles seront plus serrées. Vous trouverez ici quelques informations complémentaires sur les aiguilles circulaires.. Bon tricot!

Eva 27.01.2019 - 15:51:

Susanne! A1 finns under ritningens ärm, det är bara 2maskor och 4 varv.

Susanne Nordstrand 24.01.2019 - 00:16:

Hej. Hittade denna fantastiskt fina och lite ovanliga tröja. Men letar förjäves efter diagram A1. Är det jag som är korkad, eller är det så att det fallit bort ur mönstret ??? Ser fram emot ett snabbt svar, och ev en bilaga i ett mail om diagram A1 fattas.?! Vill gärna sticka denna tröja. Mvh Susanne.

DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 14:23:

Hej Susanne, A.1 hittar du till höger om måttskissen längst ner på sidan. Lycka till :)

Susanne Nordstrand 24.01.2019 - 00:14:

Hej. Hittade denna fantastiskt fina och lite ovanliga tröja. Men letar förjäves efter diagram A1. Är det jag som är korkad, eller är det så att det fallit bort ur mönstret ??? Ser fram emot ett snabbt svar, och ev en bilaga i ett mail om diagram A1 fattas.?! Vill gärna sticka denna tröja. Mvh Susanne.

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 08:53:

Hei Susanne. A.1 ligger helt nederst, ved siden av målskissen. Det er et lite diagram på kun 2 masker og 4 pinner. God fornøyelse

Rosa 08.01.2019 - 17:11:

Kan er geen filmpje gemaakt worden van de steek en de meerderingen en minderingen?

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 11:50:

Dag Rosa,

Je verzoek zal ik doorsturen naar de designafdeling.

Ingrid De Heij 04.01.2019 - 19:07:

Er staat dat je een rondbreinaald nodig hebt, maar daar brei je toch steeds aan dezelfde kant? Er wordt volgens het patroon heen en weer gebreid. En het voorpand en achterpand brei je apart. Kunt u mij uitleggen hoe dat zit?

DROPS Design 05.01.2019 kl. 12:57:

Dag Ingrid,

Je kan deze trui inderdaad ook gewoon helemaal met rechte naalden breien.

Mankau 22.12.2018 - 11:32:

Ich trage Größe 42 laut Skizze müsste ich Größe S stricken. Das kann nicht richtig sein.

DROPS Design 02.01.2019 kl. 08:40:

Liebe Frau Mankau, messen Sie einen ähnlichen Pullover, die Sie haben und gerne tragen. Vergleichen Sie die verschiedenen Massen mit den in der Maßskizze um die passende Größe zu finden. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Grössen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Monika 22.12.2018 - 11:29:

Die Größenangaben können nicht stimmen. Ich trage Größe 42 und müsste demnach S stricken

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