DROPS / 195 / 19

Night Shades by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper round yoke in DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted bottom up with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern u-874
Yarn group B

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 21, medium grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 16, dark grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 05, black
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 72, light pearl grey

Color combinations:
A) DROPS Karisma 69, 50, 56, 01, 55.
B) DROPS Karisma 55, 52, 56, 01, 77.


21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for the garment in stocking stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.


GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. 

Jumper: See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern with several colours, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP (applies to under sleeves):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. 

To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 240 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 40) = 6. In this example knit approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together. When increasing make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

Decrease for raglan on each side of marker in every transition between sleeves and body. Begin 2 stitches before marker, knit 2 together, marker is here, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

For better shape work an elevation in the back of neck with dark grey. Insert 1 marker mid back of neck. Knit until 14-15-16-15-16-18 stitches past marker have been worked, turn, tighten yarn and purl 28-30-32-30-32-36 stitches. Turn and knit 42-45-48-45-48-54 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 56-60-64-60-64-72 stitches back. Turn and knit 70-75-80-75-80-90 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 84-90-96-90-96-108 stitches back. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back. 




Work piece in the round on circular needle, bottom up. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

Cast on 240-262-282-306-334-366 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with medium grey. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 7 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 40-44-46-50-56-60 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 200-218-236-256-278-306 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Continue in stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round and 1 marker after 100-109-118-128-139-153 stitches (= in the sides). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 30-31-32-32-34-35 cm, cast off 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of both markers) = 92-101-108-118-127-139 stitches remain on front and back piece. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

Cast on 58-58-64-64-64-72 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm with medium grey. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) for 5 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 10-10-10-10-10-12 stitches evenly = 48-48-54-54-54-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 9-9-9-7-9-8 cm, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 7th-6th-7th-6th-5th-5th round 12-14-12-14-16-16 times in total = 72-76-78-82-86-92 stitches. When piece measures 42-41-41-39-40-39 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under sleeve = 64-68-68-72-74-78 stitches remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 312-338-352-380-402-434 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Work stocking stitch with medium grey. AT THE SAME TIME on next round decrease for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other round 2-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 296-322-328-356-378-410 stitches. After last round with decrease knit 1 round while decreasing 24-34-24-32-36-32 stitches evenly = 272-288-304-324-342-378 stitches remain on needle. Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size = 17-18-19-18-19-21 repetitions on round). Read KNITTING TIP! Continue pattern like this and decrease as shown in diagram. When A.1 has been worked (finish after a round marked with arrow in diagram for correct size), there are 119-126-133-126-133-147 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down. For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck so that yoke is somewhat higher on back piece. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - read ELEVATION. 

Knit 1 round with dark grey while decreasing 25-30-35-26-29-39 stitches evenly = 94-96-98-100-104-108 stitches around the neck edge. Switch to a short circular needle size 3 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on last round increase 22-22-24-26-26-26 stitches evenly = 116-118-122-126-130-134 stitches. Then work rib = knit 1/purl 1. When rib measures 8 cm, work 1 ridge in garter stitch. Loosely cast off - make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Fold neck edge double and sew on the inside, ridge against ridge.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 11.09.2018
Correction to BODY: Knit 1 round while decreasing 40-44-46-50-56-60 stitches evenly
Updated online: 22.10.2018
Correction: Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Continue in stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round and 1 marker after 100-109-118-128-139-153 stitches (= in the sides).


= off white
= light pearl grey
= medium grey
= dark grey
= black
= knit 2 together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (86)

Vigdis Eriksen Lund 31.03.2020 - 13:34:

Har nettopp strikket denne genseren -str M ...Det står - når arbeidet måler 31 cm felles det av til ermene ..Så det gjorde jeg ...fulgte mønsteret slavisk ...Nå er genseren ferdig strikket og den er ALT for kort ...Hva gjør jeg med en genser som er helt ubrukelig ..?? Personen som skulle ha denne genseren er 152 cm høy ... Det må da være helt gale mål som er oppgitt...? Håper på snarlig svar ...

Kathy Hoffman 06.03.2020 - 06:46:

Continuing my question/comment...I am at the part where the arms are added to body. There are 8 stitches in my size that are between the beginning of the arm and end of the arm on the needle. They are so crammed together, cannot stretch because of the 8, how on earth does anyone knit these comfortably? And then to somehow to do raglan increases/decreases and then the nordic pattern? Whoever designed this obviously did not actually knit this, would have been much better designed as a top down.

DROPS Design 06.03.2020 kl. 09:25:

Dear Mrs Hoffman, this video shows how to work a sleeve onto same needle as body - the first round might look somewhat tricky so that you can get help from another circular needle, but after some rounds it just works perfectly. Happy knitting!

Pat 05.03.2020 - 17:29:

Bonjour, je commence ce modèle et ne comprends pas la raison des diminutions apres le premier rang. Est ce une erreur? Pouvez vous m'expliquer?

DROPS Design 06.03.2020 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Pat, pour que les côtes aient la bonne circonférence avec les aiguilles 3 il faut plus de mailles qu'ensuite en jersey avec les aiguilles 4, raison pour laquelle on diminue - si on gardait le même nombre de mailles, le bas du pull serait beaucoup plus large que prévu. Bon tricot!

TAFTI 01.03.2020 - 21:44:

Bonjour, J'ai réalisé ce beau modèle, mon premier jacquard et je suis motivée pour continuer car j'ai découvert le tricot avec les aiguilles circulaires le pull sans couture (presque sans) et c'est une belle technique.

Linda Foord 23.01.2020 - 15:01:

Is there a mistake in the pattern? after the bottom rib the instructions read decrease 50 stitches which should leaving 236 stitches but there are cast on 282, so should there be 232?

DROPS Design 23.01.2020 kl. 16:14:

Dear Mrs Foord, in 3rd size you cast on 282 sts and decrease 46 stitches (50 sts would be in 4th size) evenly so that you have 282-46= 236 sts . Happy knitting!

Joette 16.01.2020 - 13:25:

Merci beaucoup pour ce joli modèle que je viens de réaliser grâce à vos excellentes explications. Je tricote depuis soixante ans et c'est la première fois que je fais un pull avec une aiguille circulaire!

Bente Bunæs 09.01.2020 - 12:25:

Hei. Det må være feil mål på oppskriften. Modellen viser en lang modell, men hvis jeg skal avslutte for å felle til armer blir genseren en kort modell - DSV den vil bare rekke meg til hofta. Og da har jeg fått for lite med grått garn tilsendt og må etterbestille for å få den lang nok. Føler meg lurt. Da er ikke garnpakkene deres så veldig billig likevel. Jeg har også sjekket strikkefastheten som er helt riktig.

Louise Raymond 04.01.2020 - 20:14:

Is it possible to get that pattern in french language? DROPS 195-19

DROPS Design 06.01.2020 kl. 07:25:

Hi Louise, If you click on the box below the photo you can change the pattern language to French. Happy knitting!

Sharon S Marble 17.12.2019 - 16:12:

Can you provide the bust sizes for the S-M-L-XL shown on the Night Shades pattern?

DROPS Design 18.12.2019 kl. 07:32:

Dear Mrs Marble, you will find how to read measurement charts here and then convert into inches here. Happy knitting!

Margareta 06.12.2019 - 23:38:

Hej, underbart mönster. Skulle ni kunna fixa samma som kofta? Jag hade så gärna haft en. Tack för en toppen sida!

DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 08:54:

Hei Margareta! Akkurat nå har vi dessverre bare dette mønsteret for genser, men vi har mange andre flotte koftemønstre, de kan du se her . Lykke til!

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