DROPS / 185 / 1

Dalvik by DROPS Design

The set consists of: Men’s knitted jumper with raglan, round yoke and multi-coloured Nordic pattern and knitted hat with multi-coloured Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-845
Yarn group B
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For the whole set there will be enough with:
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 21, medium grey,
100-150-150-150-150-150 g colour 16, dark grey,
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 05, black,
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white,
50 g for all sizes in colour 72, light pearl grey.
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JUMPER:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 21, medium grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 16, dark grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 05, black
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 72, light pearl grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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HAT:
Sizes: S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: 57/59 - 59/61 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g for both sizes in all colours:
colour 01, off white
colour 72, light pearl grey
colour 21, medium grey
colour 16, dark grey
colour 05, black

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4 MM - or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Karisma 69, 50, 56, 01, 55.
B) DROPS Karisma 55, 52, 56, 01, 77.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. 

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 230 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases/increase to be made (e.g. 46) = 5. In this example, when decreasing knit every 4th and 5th stitch together. If you are increasing, make 1 yarn over after every 5th stitch, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan on each side of the marker in each transition between body and sleeves. Start 2 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, marker sits here, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

PATTERN: 
Jumper: See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagram A.2.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern with more than one colour, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece do not pull. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BODY:
Cast on 230-252-270-300-332-362 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and medium grey. Work rib (knit 1 / purl 1) for 7 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 46-50-50-60-70-72 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 184-202-220-240-262-290 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Continue with stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the next round, insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round and 1 marker after 92-101-110-120-131-145 stitches (= in the sides). Now increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased on the round). Increase in each side every 22nd-23rd-24th-24th-28th-28th round a total of 4 times = 200-218-236-256-278-306 stitches. When the piece measures 35-36-37-37-39-40 cm, cast off 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches in each side for the armholes (i.e. cast off 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of both markers) = 92-101-108-118-127-139 stitches left on the front and back pieces. Lay the piece to one side and work sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 66-66-76-76-76-84 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and medium grey. Work rib (knit 1 /purl 1) for 5 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 18-18-22-22-22-24 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-54-54-54-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 6-7-9-7-6-10 cm increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every10th-8th-9th-8th-7th-6th round a total of 12-14-12-14-16-16 times = 72-76-78-82-86-92 stitches. When the piece measures 49-48-48-46-47-46 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder measurements), cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve = 64-68-68-72-74-78 stitches left on the needle. Lay the piece to one side and work one more sleeve.

YOKE: 
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where you cast off stitches for the armholes = 312-338-352-380-402-434 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in each transition between body and sleeves (= 4 markers). Work stocking stitch with medium grey. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 2-2-3-3-3-3 times = 296-322-328-356-378-410 stitches. After the last round of decreases, knit 1 round where you decrease 24-34-24-32-36-32 stitches evenly on round = 272-288-304-324-342-378 stitches left on needle. Continue by working pattern according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 17-18-19-18-19-21 repeats on the round). Read KNITTING TIP! Continue pattern in this way and decrease as shown in the diagram. When A.1 has been completed (finish after a round marked with an arrow in the diagram for your size) there are 119-126-133-126-133-147 stitches left on the needle and the piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Now you can work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to working neckline if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
For a better fit you can work an elevation in the back of the neck with dark grey. Insert 1 marker mid back of neck. Knit 14-15-16-15-16-18 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 28-30-32-30-32-36 stitches back. Turn and knit 42-45-48-45-48-54 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 56-60-64-60-64-72 stitches back. Turn and knit 70-75-80-75-80-90 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 84-90-96-90-96-108 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit to mid back.

NECKLINE:
Knit 1 round with dark grey where you decrease 25-30-35-26-29-39 stitches evenly on round = 94-96-98-100-104-108 stitches around the neck. Change to short circular needle size 3 mm. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round, increase 22-22-24-26-26-26 stitches evenly on round = 116-118-122-126-130-134 stitches. Continue working rib (knit 1 /purl 1). When the rib measures 8 cm work 1 ridge. Loosely cast off – Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight! Fold the collar double and fasten on the inside, ridge to ridge.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves
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HAT:
The hat is worked in the round with circular needle. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Cast on 132-154 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and dark grey. Work rib (knit 1 /purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 round AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 24-34 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 108-120 stitches. Work A.2 (= 9-10 repeats of 12 stitches) – read KNITTING TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.2 has been completed continue working with medium grey to finished length. When the piece measures 17-18 cm decrease 8-0 stitches evenly on round and at the same time insert 10 markers in the piece with 10-12 stitches between each marker = 100-120 stitches. On the next round decrease 1 stitch after each marker by knitting 2 stitches together (= 10 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 9-11 times = 10-10 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 5 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 24-26 cm in height.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.06.2018
the first and last round of diagram A.2 has been corrected to dark grey

Diagram

= off white
= light pearl grey
= medium grey
= dark grey
= black
= knit 2 together


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 185-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Sophie Godet 06.10.2019 - 07:39:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas la diminution après les côtes. Je pars avec 252 mailles est après les cotes je dois diminuer de 50 mailles alors que le schéma montre plutôt une augmentation. Pareil pour les manches. Je fais beaucoup de tricot mais en général on augmente après les bords faits en cotes.

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 09:19:

Bonjour Mme Godet, pour que l'ouvrage ait la bonne circonférence (cf schéma), on a besoin de plus de mailles pour les côtes et les aiguilles 3 que pour le jersey et les aiguilles 4, raison pour laquelle on va diminuer après les côtes. Bon tricot!

Marcia Rogocki 01.10.2019 - 05:00:

Hi. I went to comments but there isn't any in English. I would like to,know the colours you used with pattern A. The browns,blues, I would like to know the numbers for the karisma yarn. Thanks.

DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 10:27:

Dear Mrs Rogocki, you will find the colours of both alternatives A and B at the end of header (under materials for hat). Happy knitting!

DAUGERON SOLANGE 27.09.2019 - 17:57:

Bonsoir, J'aimerais faire ce modèle de pull jacquard pour homme. Comment puis je me procurer le diagramme de ce modèle en gris, noir et blanc. Je ne désire pas les explications du bonnet. Cette demande est urgente et dans l'attente d'une réponse de votre part, Vous remerciant bien cordialement

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 12:10:

Bonjour Mme Daugeron, les explications de ce modèle sont disponibles gratuitement, avec ou sans le bonnet, cliquez simplement sur "imprimer" pour lancer l'impression des explications et des diagrammes. Bon tricot!

Britta 14.09.2019 - 09:04:

Hej Jeg strikker i en XL og er kommet til det sted i ryg- og forstykke, hvor der står: Når arbejdet måler 37 cm.... er 37 cm ikke meget kort? Kan jeg evt strikke 5 cm mere? Mvh Britta

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 14:20:

Hei Britta. Noen syns 37 cm er kort andre syns det er lang. Det finnes ulike menneskekropper, noen med kort og noen med lang rygg. Om du forlenger med 5 cm, bare sjekk at du har nok garn. God Fornøyelse!

Karen Gnos 28.08.2019 - 11:30:

Hoi zäme Die Farbkombination A, sollten das Blautönen sein? Farbe 69 und 50 heissen aber grau/grün und seegrün. Lg

DROPS Design 28.08.2019 kl. 12:31:

Liebe Frau Gross, die Farbkombination A ist Grüntönen = mit grau/grün und see grün. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Inger J N Sørensen 03.06.2019 - 15:56:

Hei igjen ! Hvor høy er modellen, og hvilken str viser han ? Mvh Inger

DROPS Design 04.06.2019 kl. 07:56:

Hei Inger. Han er nok rundt 180cm, og det er en størrelse M. Nederst på siden ligger det en målskisse med alle genserens mål i de ulike størrelsene. Det er lurt å bruke denne når du velger størrelse. God fornøyelse

Inger J N Sørensen 30.05.2019 - 15:22:

Når begynner første økning på bolen, på den 24 omgang eller med en gang arbeidet begynner etter den første omgang med rett ?

DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 10:27:

Hei Inger. Den første økningen gjøres rett etter vrangborden, og videre gjentas økningen hver 24 omgang 3 ganger til (= totalt 4 ganger). God fornøyelse

Birgit Wolf 16.03.2019 - 18:48:

Hallo muss ich 36 cm mit Bund rechnen oder ohne ???Lieb gefragt Für die Anleitung Dalvik

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 09:00:

Liebe Frau Wolf, die 36 cm werden von der Anschlagskante gemessen -siehe auch Maßskizze: 7 cm Bündchen + 29 cm Rumpfteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Päivi Metsätähti 11.02.2019 - 16:55:

Sopiiko malli harteikkaalle miehelle?

Silvia Gantzert 13.01.2019 - 17:25:

Mein Mann möchte einen Rollrasen. Kann ich dann einfach länger stricken und dann locker abketten?

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 11:54:

Liebe Frau Gantzert, für einen Rollkragen können Sie ja einfach länger stricken - nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf, dort bekommen Sie individuelle Hilfe - auch telefonisch oder per Email. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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