DROPS / 196 / 2

Daisy Delight by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern and garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-057
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour no 41, plum
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 45, lemon punch
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 02, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for rib and edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
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Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Baby Merino 22, 04, 20.
B) DROPS Baby Merino 37, 41, 3.
C) DROPS Baby Merino 38, 46, 09.
D) DROPS Baby Merino 20, 39, 45.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.15 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.15 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 106 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 26.5. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 26th and 27th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 8 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 16 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION:
Insert a marker thread mid back = beginning of round. Begin from right side with plum and work in stocking stitch until 8-8-8-9-9-10 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and work 16-16-16-18-18-20 stitches in stocking stitch. Turn, tighten yarn and work 24-24-24-27-27-30 stitches in stocking stitch, turn, tighten yarn and work 32-32-32-36-36-40 stitches in stocking stitch, turn, tighten yarn and work until mid back.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 8 stitches increased on round) as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), make 1 yarn over. Repeat at the other marker threads. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 106-110-115-125-130-134 stitches on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm with plum. Work 5 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 round while increasing 4-10-15-15-20-26 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 110-120-130-140-150-160 stitches. Knit 1 round (all stitches are knitted twisted to avoid holes). For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck so that yoke is somewhat higher on back piece. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - read ELEVATION. 
Insert 9-10-10-10-11-11 marker threads in piece without working as follows: Insert first marker thread after 7-6-7-7-5-5 stitches, insert each of the next 8-9-9-9-10-10 marker threads after 12-12-13-14-14-15 stitches, 7-6-6-7-5-5 stitches remain on round after last marker thread. Move the marker threads upwards when working. Now work pattern A.1 (choose diagram for your size) the entire round – read KNITTING TIP, AT THE SAME TIME on every round with arrow in diagram increase on each side of marker threads as follows: REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
ARROW-1: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 128-140-150-160-172-182 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 146-160-170-180-194-204 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 164-180-190-200-216-226 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 182-200-210-220-238-248 stitches.
ARROW-5: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 200-220-230-240-260-270 stitches.
When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm from cast-on edge and down mid front. Remove the marker threads. Now work pattern A.2 (= 20-22-23-24-26-27 repetitions of 10 stitches) in the round. On next to last round in A.2 increase 10-12-14-16-12-12 stitches evenly = 290-320-336-352-376-390 stitches. When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from cast-on edge and down mid front. Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker thread after the first 45-49-51-55-60-64 stitches (= half back piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 55-62-66-66-68-67 stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 90-98-102-110-120-128 stitches (= front piece) and insert 4th marker thread after the next 55-62-66-66-68-67 stitches (= sleeve). 45-49-51-55-60-64 stitches remain on round after last marker thread (= half back piece).
Now work pattern A.3 in the round, at the same time on first round begin increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. Increase like this every other round 5-6-8-10-11-13 times in total = 330-368-400-432-464-494 stitches. NOTE: When A.3 has been worked vertically 1 time, continue with stocking stitch until all increases for raglan are done and piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from cast-on edge.
Work next round as follows: 50-55-59-65-71-77 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece), slip the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 100-110-118-130-142-154 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve edges, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 50-55-59-65-71-77 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! 

BODY:
= 220-240-260-284-312-340 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 110-120-130-142-156-170 stitches between marker threads). Continue in the round with plum and in stocking stitch. When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 2 stitches in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this approx. every 2 cm 12 times in total = 268-288-308-332-360-388 stitches. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 28 cm from division, increase 8-12-13-13-15-17 stitches = 276-300-321-345-375-405 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib * knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* in the round for 2 cm. Work 2 ridges and cast off. Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 75-84-94-98-104-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid under sleeve and begin round here. Continue with plum and in stocking stitch. When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-3rd round 13-17-21-22-23-24 times in total = 49-50-52-54-58-61 stitches. Continue until piece measures 40-38-37-35-33-32 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round while increasing 2-4-5-6-5-5 stitches evenly = 51-54-57-60-63-66 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Now work rib * knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* in the round for 2 cm. Work 2 ridges and cast off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

= knit with plum
= knit with off white
= knit with lemon punch
= purl with plum
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
= this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
= increase round - read explanation in pattern!





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

Nicole 17.09.2020 - 20:14:

J’ai imprimé le patron 196-2 et il a sûrement un erreur dans le calcul des mailles à partir de À.2 jusqu’à la fin du Dos&Devant

DROPS Design 18.09.2020 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Nicole, à quelle erreur pensez-vous précisément? Quelle taille et quel niveau des explications? Merci pour ces informations complémentaires.

Sue Craver 09.07.2020 - 19:19:

Here I am again. For A2, pattern reads “23 repetitions of 10 stitches” but I count 12 stitches per repetition in A2 after the first row. Is this correct?

DROPS Design 10.07.2020 kl. 07:15:

Hi Sue, Yes, you are right, after row 1 there are 12 stitches in each A.2. So on row 1, you increase 23 x 2 = 46 stitches. Happy knitting!

Sue Craver 25.06.2020 - 03:06:

Ok I give up. On the A2 chart for the Daisy sweater, what does the little football shaped symbol mean in the first row?

DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 09:06:

Dear Mrs Craver, this symbol is the 5th from diagram key, it's a yarn over - to increase for round yoke in A.2 you will make some yarn overs on first row 5 = 2 yarn overs) and on 21sts row (so that there will be 14 sts in each A.2). Happy knitting!

Sue Craver 17.05.2020 - 08:18:

Pattern 196-2, can the size S be knit with Sublime baby cashmere merino silk dk yarn with size 3 needles? My granddaughter picked out the yarn and I don’t know how to determine if it could be substituted.

DROPS Design 19.05.2020 kl. 08:10:

Hi Sue, You will need to do a swatch to see how many rows and stitches you need to get 4 x 4" and then adjust the numbers in the pattern accordingly. Happy knitting!

Sue Craver 17.05.2020 - 02:40:

In reading the chart for Daisy Delight 196-2, the A-1 chart for size S has a blank row at the bottom. What does this represent?

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 08:07:

Hi Sue, The first row in A.1 for both sizes S and M is a knit row with Plum. Happy knitting!

Sue Craver 14.05.2020 - 03:22:

I want to make this for my 12 year old granddaughter. I just knit the daisy delight pattern for her and it was 2 sizes too small. Her chest measurement is 29 1/2 inches. What size should I knit for her in this pattern? I’m not sure if measurements are in inches or centimeters.

DROPS Design 14.05.2020 kl. 08:01:

Dear Mrs Craver, this pattern is available in children size to 12 years - see Daisy Delight. Measurements in chart are all in cm. Happy knitting!

Irmeli Andersson 24.03.2020 - 08:55:

En oikein saa tolkkua ohjeeseen jossa kehoitetaan lisämään kuvion A2 toiseksi viimeisellä kerroksella 12 silmää ja tuloksena on 320 s koossa M kun silmukoita ennen lisäystä on 220. Mikähän multa on mennyt ohi?

Brandenburg 17.12.2019 - 10:06:

Ich verstehe die Maschenzunahme nach dem Muster A2. Nach dem Muster A1 habe ich 220 Maschen, in der vorletzten Runde von A2 sollen 12 Maschen verteilt zugenommen werden. Dann sollen es 320 Maschen sein. Wenn aber nur 12 Maschen zugenommen werden sollen, wie kommmen dann die 320 Maschen zustande?

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 10:13:

Liebe Frau Brandenburg, nach A.1 haben Sie 220 M (Größe M), dann stricken Sie A.2 (= 10 Maschen x 22); im A.2 werden Sie insgesamt 4 Maschen + 12 Maschen gleichmäßig verteilt in der vorletzen Runde in A.2 so daß Sie nach A.2: 14 Maschen x 22 = 308 M + 12 Zunahmen = 320 M haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Rosita 21.11.2019 - 21:13:

Buonasera,non riesco a capire questo passaggio:* 1 maglia diritto, 2 maglie a punto legaccio *, ripetere da *-* ,il le faccio e il punto diritto sono la stessa cosa.grazie in anticipo per la vs.gentile risposta!

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 22:26:

Buongiorno Rosita. Le coste devono risultare come 1 maglia diritto / 2 m a legaccio. Quindi, lavorando in tondo, lavora la maglia a diritto sempre a diritto, e lavora le 2 m a legaccio su un giro a diritto e sul giro successivo a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

Roselyne 07.11.2019 - 15:06:

Cela veut donc dire que le 1° rang est tout à l'endroit ? j'avoue que je ne comprends pas très bien

DROPS Design 07.11.2019 kl. 15:22:

Bonjour Roselyne, tout à fait, car les mailles endroit des côtes vont se tricoter tous les tours à l'endroit, mais les mailles point mousse vont devoir se tricoter 1 tour à l'endroit, 1 tour à l'envers (cf cette vidéo du point mousse en rond). Bon tricot!

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