DROPS / 187 / 10

Malibu Top by DROPS Design

Knitted top with garter stitch and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in 2 strands DROPS Safran.

DROPS Design: Pattern no e-271
Yarn group A + A or C
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color 13, raspberry
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color 17, white
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color 06, denim blue
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 12, peach
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color 01, light pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 05, light blue purple

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9 – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 30 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – for neck edge.

ACCESSORIES: Approx. 80 cm / 31½'' lace ribbon (approx. 10 mm/½" in width).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.15$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

Work stripes in garter stitch with 2 strands Safran as follows:
denim blue + denim blue: 3-3-4-4-4-4 ridges
denim blue + white: 4-4-4-4-4-4 ridges
denim blue + light blue purple: 5-5-5-6-6-6 ridges
light blue purple + raspberry: 3-4-4-4-5-5 ridges
raspberry + raspberry: 6-6-6-7-7-7 ridges
raspberry + denim blue: 3-4-4-4-4-5 ridges
denim blue + white: 7-7-8-8-8-9 ridges
white + white: 4-4-4-4-4-4 ridges
white + peach: 3-3-3-3-3-3 ridges
peach + raspberry: 4-5-5-5-5-6 ridges
raspberry + raspberry: 5-5-5-5-5-5 ridges
raspberry + light blue purple: 3-3-4-4-5-5 ridges
light blue purple + white: 2-2-2-2-3-3 ridges
raspberry + peach: 3-3-3-4-4-4 ridges
peach + peach: 6-6-6-6-6-6 ridges
peach + light pink: 3-3-3-3-3-3 ridges
light pink + light pink: 6-6-6-6-6-6 ridges
light pink + white: 3-3-3-3-3-3 ridges
white + white: 5-5-5-5-5-5 ridges– or to finished length.

Decrease on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 3 edge stitches: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the 3 edge stitches: Start 2 stitches before the 3 edge stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

The piece is worked back and forth in 2 parts which are sewn together to finish.

The whole of the back piece is worked back and forth with GARTER STITCH and STRIPES - see description above.
Cast on 72-78-84-92-100-110 stitches with circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and 2 strands Safran (denim blue + denim blue). Work garter stitch and stripes as described above.
When the piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', decrease 1 stitch in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 8-8-8-8-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½'' a total of 4 times in each side = 64-70-76-84-92-102 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'', bind off 3-3-4-5-5-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for armholes = 58-64-68-74-82-90 stitches. Then decrease 1 stitch for the armhole in each side every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 3-6-7-9-12-15 times in each side – read DECREASE TIP = 52-52-54-56-58-60 stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 38-40-42-42-44-46 cm / 15"-15 3/4"-16½"-16½"-17 1/4"-18'', divide for the split mid back (this is done after 1 knitted row from the right side). Place half the stitches on 1 thread and finish each side separately.
Continue with stripes and garter stitch and continue to decrease for armhole in the side if necessary, on each row from the right side until all the decreases have been completed.
When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8'', bind off 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches for the neck at the beginning of the row from mid back. Continue working as before and bind off 1 stitch for the neck at the beginning of the next row from mid back = 12-12-12-13-13-14 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working with 2 strands white until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''. Bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other side in the same way.

Cast on as for back piece and follow the instructions for back piece until the piece measures 46-48-50-51-53-55 cm / 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21"-21½''. Decreases for armholes have now been completed and there are 52-52-54-56-58-60 stitches on the needle.
Place the middle 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches on a thread for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue with garter stitch and stripes and continue to bind off for neck every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) as follows: bind off 2 stitches 2-2-2-2-2-2 times and then 1 stitch 3-3-3-3-4-4 times = 12-12-12-13-13-14 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''. Bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

Sew side seams from the armholes down – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat, but stop when you still have 20 cm / 8'' left at the bottom of each side (= split). Sew shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge.

Start from the right side mid back and knit up approx. 68 to 84 stitches (including stitches from the thread in front) with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and 2 strands white. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Then bind off with knit from the right side.
Divide the lace ribbon into 2 equal lengths and sew a length to each side of the split at the back, at top of neck. Tie a bow mid back.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Claudia 08.05.2020 - 22:46:

Hola! Tengo dos preguntas. En el delantero, me toca pasar los puntos al gancho auxiliar para el cuello y finalizar los hombros. Los puntos se pasan al gancho por el lado del derecho? Y cuando dice "Continuar con el punto musgo y las rayas y seguir cerrando para el cuello cada 2a fila...", comienzo a cerrar los puntos desde el centro del delantero? Gracias!!

Claudia 10.04.2020 - 11:00:

Hola. Me toca dividir la labor para empezar la abertura de la espalda. Cómo sigo? Tejo 1 fila de derecho y luego paso la mitad de los puntos al gancho auxiliar (es decir, cuando empiece a tejer uno de los lados me tocará iniciar del revés)? O primero paso los puntos al gancho auxiliar y luego empiezo a tejer (empezaría cada lado de derecho)? Gracias por la aclaración.

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 21:02:

Hola Claudia. Si, es correcto. Después de completar 1 fila de derecho pasar la mitad de los puntos a un gancho auxiliar y comenzar a trabajar el resto de la espalda comenzando por el lado revés.

Claudia 22.03.2020 - 22:11:

Hola! Me podrían decir qué conviene más, si cortar el hilo cuando se hace un cambio de color o llevar el hilo inactivo todo el largo del borde? Mi duda es porque son muchos colores y las franjas varían de pequeñas a grandes. Gracias!

DROPS Design 22.03.2020 kl. 23:18:

Hola Claudia. Este vídeo te podría ayudar:

Claudia 20.03.2020 - 16:16:

Hola! Quería saber si en el montaje de puntos de este modelo ya están incluidos los puntos de orillo. Gracias!

DROPS Design 22.03.2020 kl. 23:37:

Hola Claudia. Los puntos de orillo están incluidos en el número total de puntos.

Claudia 20.03.2020 - 15:47:

Hola! Quisiera saber si en el montaje de puntos de este modelo ya están incluidos los puntos de orillo. Gracias!

Pola 18.02.2019 - 14:27:

I would like to make this top with one colour of safran yarn. Could you tell me how many skeins will I need?

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 16:01:

Dear Pola, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. For any further individual assistance please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Annette 08.08.2018 - 12:34:

Wenn ich es mit einem Faden Safran in L stricken möchte, wie viel Maschen muss ich dann aufnehmen? Kann ich das irgendwie umrechnen? Danke

DROPS Design 08.08.2018 kl. 13:22:

Liebe Anette, dieses Top wird mit 2 Fäden Safran gestrickt, dh die Maschenprobe wird nicht die gleiche sein wie mit nur 1 Faden und die Anleitung sollen Sie dann ganz anpassen, je nach Ihrer eigenen Maschenprobe. Am besten stricken Sie mit 2 Fäden Safran - wie in der anleitung oder mit nur 1 Faden Garngruppe C - siehe unseren Garnumrechner. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Rebekka Schlenker 09.07.2018 - 09:13:

Liebes DROPS-Team, würde es Sinn machen, die Baumwolle vor dem Verarbeiten in Wasser zu tauchen und trocknen zu lassen, damit das fertige Strickstück später beim Waschen nicht mehr einläuft? Danke und liebe Grüße Rebekka

DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 09:45:

Liebe Frau Schlenker, hier können Sie wichtige Pflegehinweise lesen, für weitere Auskünfte, nehmen Sie bitten Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Daniela Stoll 18.06.2018 - 10:42:

Liebes DROPS-Team ich habe die gesamte Höhe des Rückenteils erreicht bevor die Streifenfolgefertig ist.Beende ich nun die Arbeit oder Stricke ich erst die Streifen laut Anleitung fertig?

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 13:47:

Liebe Frau Stroll, die Streifen beenden mit 2 Fäden Weiß und 5 Krausrippen - oder bis zum fertigen Maß dh mit 2 Fäden Weiß fertig stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Daniela Stoll 13.06.2018 - 19:42:

Sorry Liebes Dropsteam habe meine Frage in den Kommentaren gepostet.Ich wollte wissen ob bei dem Top alle Maschen kraus rechts gestrickt werden oder ob man Randmaschen macht?

DROPS Design 14.06.2018 kl. 08:21:

Liebe Frau Stroll, alle Maschen werden kraus rechts gestrickt, dh auch die Randmaschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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