DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 1.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-1400
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-267
Yarn group A
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The heart weighs approx. 20 g.
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Measurements: Width: approx. 17 cm / 6 3/4''. Height: approx. 15 cm / 6''.
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 19, red

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 24 double crochets on 10 cm / 4'' in width. A.1 measures approx. 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 1.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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HEART:
You first work a square in the round, starting from the middle of the square. Then you work a semi-circle back and forth along one side of the square. Then another semi-circle along the other side of the square, i.e. beside the first semi-circle.

Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and Safran and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch (= middle of square). Continue in the round according to diagram A.1 - REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed (do not cut strand) work a semi-circle back and forth according to diagram A.2 along the first side of A.1. When A.2 has been completed, cut and fasten strand.
Then work a semi-circle according to A.2 in the same way along the next side of A.1 - see star in diagram (start from right side). When A.2 has been completed, you have finished in the middle of the 2 semi-circles - do not cut strand!
Now work an edge around the whole heart as follows:
Work 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, work from *-* along the whole semi-circle, then along the side of the square as follows: Work 1 single crochet around corner-space, 2 chain stitches, * 1 single crochet around next chain-space, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around same chain-space, 2 chain stitches *, work from *-* along both sides of square, then work along the other semi-circle as follows: Work 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* along the whole semi-circle, finish with 30 chain stitches (= loop) and fasten with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round. Cut and fasten strand.

So the heart hangs nicely and is a bit stiff, you can dip it in sugared water or colorless fizzy drink and lay flat to dry.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = chain stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = single crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space/chain-stitch ring
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = 4 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: Work 4 treble crochets around next chain stitch, but wait with last yarn over and pull through on each of these treble crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 5 loops on hook
symbols = Round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = Round begins with slip stitches worked to middle of first chain-space, then work 1 chain stitch. Round finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = work back and forth from here.
symbols = slip stitch in chain-space/double crochet
symbols = 4 chain stitches, form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round starts and finishes here
symbols = last semi-circle starts here - see description in text
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Susan Farrell wrote:

Is this available in English? Thank you!

11.02.2024 - 12:39

country flag Susan wrote:

In the picture of the red heart shown finished, on the left semi-circle there are seven 4 treble crochets together, and on the right side there are only six. Is this intentional?

04.02.2024 - 08:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, it should be 7 (4 treble crochets together) in each semi-circle; there was a mistake in the photo. Please follow the instructions in the written pattern and only use the photo as a visual general guide. Happy crochetting!

04.02.2024 - 23:22

country flag Sofie wrote:

To spørgsmål 1. Kan det passe at den første Hjertebue a2, kommer til at vende vrang i forhold til a1? 2. A2 viser 7 dobbeltstgm, men jeres viste hjerte har 6 på den ene side og 7 på den anden? Mvh Sofie

10.06.2022 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sofie. Når du hekler den første hjertebuen vil 1. og 3. rad hekles fra "retten", mens 2. og 4. rad hekles fra "vrangen". Det samme gjelder også når 2. hjertebue skal hekles. Se gjerne hjelpevideoen til dette hjertet. Det skal være 7 dobbeltstgm, som du ser på diagrammet, på begge hjertebuene. mvh DROPS Design

13.06.2022 - 09:27

country flag Arachna wrote:

Part 3: R3: 3ch, sl in dc, 3ch, turn, * st in 3ch sp, 5ch * 5x st, 3ch, sl in dc, R4: 3ch, sl in 4ch sp, turn, ch, dc,ch,dc,ch in 3ch sp, *dc,ch,dc,ch,dc* 6x in every ch (both 3 and 5 ch) sp, sl in 4ch sp Please feel free to correct if I made mistake. Hope it helps, best regards! Arachna

23.02.2022 - 21:21

country flag Arachna wrote:

Part 2: R4: 3ch, *ch, st in 4ch sp, 5ch, st in 4ch sp, ch, 5dc in 6 ch sp, 3ch, 5dc in the same 6 ch sp*4x end w sl to first 3ch R5: 3ch, * 3ch, dc in 5ch sp, 3ch, dc in 1ch sp, 5ch, dc in 3ch sp, 4ch, dc in the same 3ch sp, 5ch above 5 dcs, dc in 1ch sp *4x end w last dc as sl into the first 3ch A2 Back and forth R1: sl in ch sp, *ch, dc in st*6x ch, sl in 3ch sp, turn R2: 3ch, sl in 5ch sp, *4trtog, 3ch*5x, 4trtog, sl in 5ch sp

23.02.2022 - 21:20

country flag Arachna wrote:

Hello Dear Crocheters, I tried to write down the instructions first part: Start: 4 chain stitches, form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch R1: 3ch, *ch, dc* 12x end w ch into 3ch R2: 3ch, *4trtog in ch sp, 3ch* end w sl in first 3ch R3:sl into ch sp, ch, *st in ch sp, 4ch, st in ch sp, 4ch, st in ch sp,6ch* 4x (12st, 8x4ch, 4x6ch) end w sl to first ch

23.02.2022 - 21:19

country flag Lennel Davenport wrote:

On the heart pattern I got through the A1 part but it was like totally confusing trying to go to A2. The video didn't help at all, you couldn't even tell where she was crocheting. All you could see was the needle & the stitch being made. I need to know where to go to start A2 & what the instructions mean. The written instructions were terrible.

24.05.2020 - 03:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Davenport, A.2 is worked the first time just after A.1 (see arrow for beg of row in A.2 and time code 13:47 in the video). You work A.2 after the last sl st on last row in A.1 and continue back and forth joining each row in the last row of A.1 - when first A.2 is worked, cut the yarn and work 2nd A.2 starting where there is a black star on last row in A.1. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

25.05.2020 - 09:31

country flag Oddrun Hovsengen wrote:

Har hekla denne, med små justeringer (picoter rundt + bakstykke=korg). Tenkte å legge inn bilder her, men får det ikkje til. Kan eg leggje inn på FB, men kva for gruppe?

10.03.2020 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Oddrun, Den vil vi glæde os til at se. Du kan lægge den ind på DROPS Workshop på Facebook. Og på Instagram #dropsfan - tusind tak :)

10.03.2020 - 13:17

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, Est-ce possible d'utiliser ce modèle pour fabriquer des décorations de Noël vendues par une association ? Il s'agit d'une association à but non lucratif qui organise des cours d'éveil artistique pour les jeunes en milieu rural avec des professionnels qualifiés et des bénévoles, ainsi qu'une galerie d'exposition pour soutenir les artistes locaux et animer le village, avec une boutique éphémère pour les fêtes. Merci d'avance pour votre réponse !

15.11.2019 - 09:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, vous trouverez toutes les conditions d'utilisation de nos modèles sous la mention copyright en bas de page de chacun de nos modèles. Bon crochet!

15.11.2019 - 11:31

country flag Rachel wrote:

Thanks for the clear and slow video. This got me started with the chart. Then I worked happily and I'm thrilled with the Heart. I made mine using scraps of Alize Batik cotton and a 3 mm hook.

31.07.2019 - 21:26