Visby Tunic by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Tunic for kids with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, knitted top down. Head band with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. Size 2 - 12 years Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

  • Visby Tunic / DROPS Children 30-11 - Set consists of: Tunic for kids with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, knitted top down. Head band with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. Size 2 - 12 years Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
  • Visby Tunic / DROPS Children 30-11 - Set consists of: Tunic for kids with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, knitted top down. Head band with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. Size 2 - 12 years Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
  • Visby Tunic / DROPS Children 30-11 - Set consists of: Tunic for kids with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, knitted top down. Head band with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. Size 2 - 12 years Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
DROPS design: Pattern me-036-bn
Yarn group B
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For the entire set use approx.:
250-300-300-350-400-450 g colour 32, dark rose
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 18, green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 33, rose
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TUNIC:
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-300-350-400-450 g colour 32, dark rose
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 18, green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 33, rose

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edges in garter stitch.
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HEAD BAND:
Size: 2/5 - 6/12 years
Head circumference: approx. 48/52 - 52/56 cm
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white
50 g for both sizes in colour 32, dark rose

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm – for rib.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
Tunic: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size.
Head band: See diagram A.6.
Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 8) = 9.5.
In this example increase after alternately approx. every 9th and 10th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If decreasing knit alternately approx. every 8th and 9th stitch and every 9th and 10th stitch together. 

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Begin from right side with rose and knit as before until 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 12-12-14-14-16-16. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 18-18-21-21-24-24, turn, tighten yarn and purl 24-24-28-28-32-32. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 30-30-35-35-40-40, turn, tighten yarn and purl 36-36-42-42-48-48. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

KNITTING TIP-2 (applies to yoke on tunic):
If knitting tension is incorrect in height and there are more rows vertically on 10 cm than stated in pattern the round yoke will be too short and the armholes too small. To avoid this work 1 extra round in stocking stitch evenly in the unicoloured sections on yoke.

KNITTING TIP-3:
Tunic can be worked to desired length. If you want it longer, continue increase in each side the same way as before until desired measurements.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in each side as follows: Begin 10 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 20 (marker thread is in the middle of these 20 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 2 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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TUNIC:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Rounds begin mid back.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 76-78-80-82-84-86 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm with rose. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then knit 2 round while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 8-6-10-8-12-10 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 84-84-90-90-96-96 stitches. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch back to circular needle size 4 mm and work ELEVATION at the back of neck - see explanation above. When elevation has been worked, finish by knitting 0-2-0-2-0-2 rounds with rose. Read KNITTING TIP-1 AND KNITTING TIP-2!
Then work A.1 in the round (= 14-14-15-15-16-16 repetitions of 6 stitches). Continue pattern and increase as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On round marked with arrow-1 in A.1 there are 126-126-135-135-144-144 stitches on needle. Work round as shown in diagram and increase AT THE SAME TIME 10-16-18-18-20-26 stitches evenly on this round = 136-142-153-153-164-170 stitches. Continue A.1 and increase AT THE SAME TIME 8-14-15-15-16-22 stitches on round marked with arrow-2 in A.1 = 144-156-168-168-180-192 stitches. After A.1 work A.2 in the round (= 12-13-14-14-15-16 repetitions of 12 stitches). Continue pattern and increase as shown in diagram. On round marked with arrow-3 (last round in A.2) there are 192-208-224-224-240-256 stitches on needle. Work round as shown in diagram and increase AT THE SAME TIME 14-10-6-10-6-2 stitches evenly on this round (increasing base colour in pattern stripe) = 206-218-230-234-246-258 stitches. Piece measures now approx. 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm from cast-on edge mid front. On next round work as explained below:
SIZE 2 and 3/4 YEARS:
Work with off white as follows: 29-31 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), slip the next 45-47 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 58-62 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 45-47 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 29-31 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece).
SIZE 5/6, 7/8, 9/10 and 11/12 YEARS:
Work with dark rose as follows: 33-34-36-38 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), slip the next 49-49-51-53 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 66-68-72-76 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 49-49-51-53 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 33-34-36-38 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece).

ALL SIZES:
Cut the strand. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 128-136-144-152-160-168 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches that were cast on under sleeve in each side. Begin round at one marker and read the rest of body before continuing!
SIZE 2, 3/4, 5/6 and 7/8 years:
Work A.3 in the round (= 16-17-18-19 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.3 has been worked, work A.4 in the round. When A.4 has been worked, work in stocking stitch with dark rose until finished measurements.
SIZE 9/10 and 11/12 years:
Work A.4 in the round (= 20-21 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.4 has been worked, work in stocking stitch with dark rose until finished measurements.

ALL SIZES: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm, increase 2 stitches in each side - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 8th-9th-8th-9th-8th-9th round (approx. every 3 cm) 8-8-10-10-12-12 times in total in each side = 160-168-184-192-208-216 stitches. NOTE! Work the increased stitches in dark rose, i.e. when increasing, there will be more stitches in dark rose between dots in A.4.
When piece measures approx. 25-28-31-34-37-40 cm from division - read KNITTING TIP-3, work 2 ridges. Then loosely cast off. Tunic measures approx. 42-46-50-54-58-62 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 45-47-49-49-51-53 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 51-53-55-57-59-61 stitches on needle. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under sleeve and 1 marker thread in the middle stitch on round (= mid on top of sleeve. Read the rest of sleeve before continuing!
SIZE 2, 3/4, 5/6 and 7/8 years:
Begin at marker thread mid under sleeve and work A.3 in the round but note that the pattern will not fit an entire repetition mid under sleeve. Begin with 3rd-2nd-1st-8th stitch in A.3 and repeat A.3 in the round as long as you can. Pattern will be symmetrical mid under sleeve and stitch with marker thread mid on top of sleeve should now fit 4th stitch in A.3. After A.3 work in stocking stitch with dark rose.
SIZE 9/10 and 11/12 years:
Begin at marker thread mid under sleeve and work in stocking stitch with dark rose.

ALL SIZES: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-3-2-2-2-2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2-2½-3½-3½-3½ cm 7-8-9-8-9-10 times in total = 37-37-37-41-41-41 stitches. When piece measures 16-19-23-27-31-34 cm from division (decreases should be done), knit 1 round while decreasing 1 stitch in all sizes = 36-36-36-40-40-40 stitches. Work A.5 in the round (= 9-9-9-10-10-10 repetitions of 4 stitches). After A.5 switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work 2 ridges in the round with dark rose, switch back to double pointed needles size 4 mm and cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 21-24-28-32-36-39 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.
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HEAD BAND:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 108-124 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with dark rose. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 2 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and off white. Knit 1 round while at the same time decrease 10-12 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 98-112 stitches. Work A.6 in the round (= 7-8 repetitions of 14 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.6 has been worked, continue with dark rose. Knit 1 round while increasing 10-12 stitches evenly = 108-124 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 2 cm. Switch back to circular needle size 3 mm and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

symbols = rose
symbols = off white
symbols = green
symbols = dark rose
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with base colour in pattern stripe
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Jinky wrote:

Thanks so much for the help, I've already cast on, and just to point out on the instruction when increase, it says I should do a yarn over, which would create a hole, I think you the pattern means to do M1 right? it's rather confusing when saying do a yarn over when increasing...

15.12.2017 - 09:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jinky, the video below shows how to increase with a yarn over. A small hole can appear but should be fixed when blocking/washing; feel free to use any other increase technique if you prefer. Happy knitting!

15.12.2017 kl. 10:15

Jinky wrote:

Thanks, now I understand, another question since this is my first time to follow your pattern in knitting I'm a bit confuse on the Elevation instruction. Is this suppose to be a Wrap and Turn? if not I don't think I know what you meant when you say "Begin from right side with rose and knit as before until 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn" Hope you can explain this a bit a further? Thanks so much for the help.

14.12.2017 - 04:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jinky, the video below shows how we work the elevation on back piece (ie short rows without wrap & turn, but feel free to work them if you rather). Happy knitting!

14.12.2017 kl. 08:53

Jinky wrote:

I did, and didn't find the chest size on the schematics, hence my question which I think is pretty direct, also the link that you direct me to is for the adult size, do you have the size conversion like age and chest size according to Drops standard which btw I have read prior to sending my queries I did measure the tunic that I think best fit my daughter and that's what I came up with the size, I would hate to find out that I knitted the wrong size. Thanks so much for your help.

12.12.2017 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jinky, you can check from number of sts in pattern and gauge, ie with 23 sts = 4 inch, in the first size you should get 128 sts for body = approx. 22 inch, and in 2nd size with 136 sts you should get approx. 23.6 inch. Compare other measurements and ajdust if necessary. Remember to check and keep the gauge. Happy knitting!

12.12.2017 kl. 15:22

Jinky wrote:

Just wanted to know which size I can knit for my daughter that has a chest size of 21" but would love to have at least 2" positive ease? I've already bought the yarn and just wanted to be sure before the start knitting. Thank you so much for the help.

12.12.2017 - 10:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jinky, look at the measurement chart, you will find all measurements for each size taken flat (in cm) from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment she has to find out the matching size. Read more about sizing and convert into inches here. Happy knitting!

12.12.2017 kl. 13:14

country flag Liv Endahl wrote:

Strikker denne i størrelse 7/8, er kommet til tredje økningen på diagram A2. Som jeg forstår skal det økes hver 15de maske i denne omgangen. Forstår ikke at det er mulig å øke midt i mønstret, eller har jeg misforstått ?

17.11.2017 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Liv, Du skal bare øke på omgangene markert med pil, som er 2 omganger med bare en farge hvor økningene ikke synes, God fornøyelse!

18.11.2017 kl. 07:20

country flag Veronica wrote:

Hei... plutselig var mønster a.3 og a.6 borte fra siden....

27.10.2017 - 09:31

country flag Aslaug Berget Alsaker wrote:

Har en kunde som er kommet inn og lurer på om dette mønstret er riktig. Hun lurer på om pil på A.2 står plassert feil? hun strikker str 7/8.

02.10.2017 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Man har 168 m på pinden efter A.1, tager ud ifølge A.2 (4mx14)= 56 + 10 m på sidste omgang i A.2 = 234 masker, så det stemmer. Da sidste omgang (med pilen) strikkes i kun én farve, så skal der bare tage ud i den ene farve (de andre størrelser tages der ud i en mønsteromgang). Har du yderligere spørgsmål så husk at markere det som et spørgsmål (ikke som generel kommentar), ellers ser vi som svarer det ikke og derfor svarer vi så heller ikke. God fornøjelse! :)

05.10.2017 kl. 08:17

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