Visby Socks by DROPS Design

Knitted socks with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern for kids. Sizes 24 - 37. The piece is worked in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-037-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 24/25 - 26/28 - 29/31 - 32/34 - 35/37
Foot length: 15-17-18-20-22 cm
Sock height down to heel: 18-18-20-20-22 cm
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g in all sizes in colour 32, dark rose
50 g in all sizes in following colours:
colour 01, off white
colour 18, green
colour 33, rose

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 52 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 4) = 13.
In this example, knit every 12th and 13th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease as follows before the marker: Start 2 stitches before the marker and knit 2 together. 
Decrease as follows after the marker: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

KNITTING TIP (for heel):
To strengthen the heel you can use 2 strands when working heel and heel decreases as follows: Use the strand from the inside and outside of the ball and work 1 stitch alternately with the one then the other strand. In this way, you get a slightly thicker heel without using a double strand.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work until there are 6-6-6-8-8 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work until there are 6-6-6-8-8 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work until there are 5-5-5-7-7 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece. 
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work until there are 5-5-5-7-7 stitches, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece. 
Continue to decrease in the same way, by working until there is 1 less stitch before slipping 1 stitch and until there are 10-10-10-10-10 stitches left on the needle.
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SOCK:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.
Cast on 48-52-56-60-64 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and rose. Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (= knit 2 /purl 2). When the rib measures 2-2-3-3-3 cm knit 1 round where you decrease 0-4-2-6-4 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 48-48-54-54-60 stitches. Continue by working A.1 in the round (= 8-8-9-9-10 repeats of 6 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the round marked with arrow-1 in A.1 decrease 0-0-2-2-2 stitches evenly = 48-48-52-52-58 stitches.
The next round is worked as follows: Work A.2A (= 3 stitches), work A.2B over the next 42 stitches (= 3 repeats of 14 stitches) and finish with A.2C (= 3-3-7-7-13 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. On the round marked with arrow-2 in A.2B decrease 8-8-4-4-2 stitches evenly on round = 40-40-48-48-56 stitches. When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round (= 5-5-6-6-7 repeats of 8 stitches). On the round marked with arrow-3 in the diagram, decrease 0-0-8-0-8 stitches evenly = 40-40-40-48-48 stitches. When A.3 has been completed, work A.4 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6 repeats of 8 stitches). Continue A.4 until piece measures 18-19-20-20-22 cm. Now keep the first 10-10-10-12-12 stitches on the needle for the heel, place the next 20-20-20-24-24 stitches on a 1 thread (= mid top of foot) and keep the last 10-10-10-12-12 stitches on the needle for heel. Read KNITTING TIP and work stocking stitch back and forth with dark rose over the 20-20-20-24-24 heel stitches for 4-4-4-5-5 cm. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! 
Continue by working HEEL DECREASE – see description above! After the heel decrease, knit up 9-9-9-11-11 stitches on each side of the heel and the 20-20-20-24-24 stitches from the thread are placed back on the needle = 48-48-48-56-56 stitches on the needle. Continue with A.4 in the round as before until A.4 has been worked a total of 2-2-2-3-3 times in height (from where A.4 started). Then work stocking stitch with dark rose.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after you have knitted up stitches on each side of the heel, decrease in each side as follows: Knit together the first 2 stitches after the 20-20-20-24-24 stitches on top of foot and knit twisted together the last 2 stitches before the 20-20-20-24-24 stitches on top of foot. Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 4-4-4-6-6 times = 40-40-40-44-44 stitches (when decreasing there will not be enough stitches to fit a hole repeat of A.4 in each side, adapt the pattern by working more stitches with dark rose between the “dots” in each side). Continue in the round until the piece measures 8-10-11-13-15 cm from the marker on the heel, there are now approx. 7 cm before finished length. Work A.5 in the round (= 10-10-10-11-11 repeats of 4 stitches). When A.5 has been completed, work stocking stitch with dark rose to finished length. When the piece measures 11-13-14-16-18 cm from the marker on the heel, insert 1 new marker in each side so that there are 20-20-20-22-22 stitches both on top of and underneath the foot. Continue with stocking stitch in the round - AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch on each side of both markers for toe - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 5 times in all sizes and then every round a total of 2 times in all sizes = 12-12-12-16-16 stitches left on the needles. On the next round, knit all the stitches together 2 and 2 = 6-6-6-8-8 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. Work one more sock in the same way.

Diagram

= rose
= off white
= green
= dark rose
= decrease round


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

Annika Fredriksson 28.10.2018 - 03:37:

I storlek 26/28 bilderna 3 A2A och A2C slutarbetet passar inte ihop med resten av mönstret. Är de fel ritADE

Anny 20.10.2018 - 00:31:

Hei, diagrammene er merket feil med farger, noe om jo er veldig irriterende når man som meg bare har fulgt diagrammene og innser etter A3 at fargene er omvendt av det man ønsker og man må rekke opp. Fint om man kan få rettet opp i dette

Bjørg Aasheim 28.12.2017 - 12:26:

Hei. Jeg synes dere burde lese igjennom teksten i oppskriften og sammenligne mot hvilke diagram det er henvist til i teksten. Viser også til kommentar jeg har ovenfor.

Bjørg Aasheim 25.11.2017 - 19:42:

Hei. Hvorfor er diagrammet tatt vekk på de to største str. I mønsteret til Drops Children 30-12 . Gjelder sokken Vispy sock.

DROPS Design 27.11.2017 kl. 09:58:

Hei Bjørg. Hvilken diagram mener du mangler? A.2B og A.2C er delt opp i 3 diagrammer (avhengig av størrelsene). mvh Drops design

Katarina Niemi 06.11.2017 - 19:14:

Hej, jag tycker att det är några fel i mönstret Diagram A1, varv 3 ska vara 3 vita, 1 rosa, 2 vita Diagram A2A stl 29/32 32/34 Varv 6 bör vara 4 vita

Katarina Niemi 06.11.2017 - 19:13:

Hej, jag tycker att det är några fel i mönstret Diagram A1, varv 3 ska vara 3 vita, 1 rosa, 2 vita Diagram A2A stl 29/32 32/34 Varv 6 bör vara 4 vita

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