DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lotta

Children’s tunic with round yoke and multi-coloured Norwegian pattern, worked top down. Sizes 2 - 12 years. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Children 30-8
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-011-bn
Yarn group A
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Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200-250-300 g colour 16, red
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 05, light pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP (for multi-coloured pattern):
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working the pattern, it is important that the strands do not pull at the back of the piece. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
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TUNIC:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. You can work an elevation in the back of the neck to get a better fit, so that the yoke is a little higher in the neck. You can choose to leave out this elevation; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description of elevation further down the page. After the yoke, the body is worked in the round with circular needle. The sleeve edges are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 88-88-92-96-96-100 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm and with red. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 1½ cm. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 round where you increase 7-17-18-19-24-25 stitches evenly on round = 95-105-110-115-120-125 stitches.
Now work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to working the yoke if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Knit 8 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 16 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 24 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 32 stitches back. Continue working 8 more stitches each time you turn until you have worked over a total of 48-48-48-64-64-80 stitches, turn and knit to mid back.

YOKE:
Continue by working A.1 (= 19-21-22-23-24-25 repeats in width) and read KNITTING TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Change to longer circular needle when necessary. When A.1 has been completed, there are 228-252-264-276-288-300 stitches on the round. Knit 1 round where the number of stitches is adjusted to 236-252-260-280-292-304 stitches, continue with red for 0-1-2-0-1-2 cm. The yoke now measures approx. 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm mid front (measured without the rib in neck). The next round is worked as follows: Work 35-38-39-42-44-46 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 48-50-52-56-58-60 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve edge (without working them), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 70-76-78-84-88-92 stitches (= front piece), place the next 48-50-52-56-58-60 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve edge (without working them), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 35-38-39-42-44-46 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeve edges are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 152-164-172-184-192-200 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and red. When the piece measures 19-22-25-28-31-34 cm from the separation, knit 1 round where you increase 0-4-4-0-0-0 stitches evenly on round = 152-168-176-184-192-200 stitches. Work A.2 over all stitches (= 19-21-22-23-24-25 repeats of 8 stitches). Continue with red when A.2 has been completed. Purl 1 round (= the folding round), then work stocking stitch for 7 cm. Cast off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Place the stitches from one of the threads on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve in red = 54-56-60-64-66-68 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches = mid under sleeve. Knit 1 round where you increase 2-0-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly on round = 56-56-60-64-68-68 stitches. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 1½ cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bottom 7 cm on the body in towards the wrong side of the tunic (at the folding round) and fasten neatly with small stitches.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.06.2019
Correction - SLEEVE EDGE: Place the stitches from one of the threads on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm

Diagram

symbols = red
symbols = light pink
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Lotta

Helena, Germany

Lotta

Helena, Germany

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 30-8

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Letizia wrote:

Buongiorno!! Se volessi lavorare questo modello in tinta unità (senza motivo jacquard) come devo procedere per lo sprone? Grazie mille

06.02.2023 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Letizia, può lavorare il motivo con un colore solo rispettando gli aumenti. Buon lavoro!

10.02.2023 - 16:08

country flag Hélène wrote:

Bonjour! À la section « bordure de manches » vous mentionnez « relever en plus 1 maille dans chacune des 8 mailles. Ma question comment relevez-vous ces mailles.? Au plaisir de vous lire,

21.12.2020 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, utilisez la technique montrée dans cette vidéo ou bien dans cette leçon, photo 18B. Bon tricot!

21.12.2020 - 14:18

country flag Isabel wrote:

Hallo, ich bin gerade dabei euer schönes Modell zu stricken. In der Anleitung steht, dass das Modell von oben nach unten gestrickt wird, auf den bildern sieht das aber so aus als ob die Tunika von unten nach oben gestrickt wurde. Was ist richtig? Beim Rumpfteil steht, dass 1 Runde links gestrickt wird und dann noch 7 cm glatt rechts. Auf den Bildern sieht das nicht so aus, als ob die Tunika noch so lang wird.

20.12.2020 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Isabel, die Anleitung für diese Tunika wurde von oben nach unten gestrickt - beim Rumpfteil stricken Sie glattrechts mit rot bis Arebit mist 19-22-25-28-31-34 cm ab der Teilung, erst dann A.2 und 7 cm glatt rechts (Bruchkante) stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.12.2020 - 08:33

country flag Hélène wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote présentement votre modèle Lotta mais j’aimerais savoir si vous avez des modèles de chandails pour adolescents soit 14-16ans .? Au plaisir de vous lire

03.11.2020 - 17:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, nous avons quelques modèles enfant en taille 13/14 ans et d'autres modèles seront en taille XS dans la rubrique adulte. Bon tricot!

04.11.2020 - 08:41

country flag Hélène wrote:

Bonjour, j’ai une autre question en référence au « col «  à savoir comment faites-vous les augmentations soit (24) grandeur 9-10. Est-ce un jeté ou une augmentation intercalaire? Merci à l’avance

14.10.2020 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, vous pouvez faire un jeté ou augmenter comme vous en avez l'habitude. Bon tricot!

15.10.2020 - 09:05

country flag Hélène wrote:

Bonjour! À la section « col » les augmentations se font-elles en fonction des informations selon votre vidéo « comment répartir des augmentations/diminutions « . Je tricote la grandeur 9/10 donc je dois augmenter de 24 mailles pour un total de 120 mailles. Merci à l’avance.

06.10.2020 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, tout à fait les augmentations doivent se faire à intervalles réguliers comme l'explique cette leçon. Bon tricot!

07.10.2020 - 07:59

country flag Birgit Hommes wrote:

Hallo, habe dieses schöne Modell nachgearbeitet in Gr. 146/152. Leider hatte ich am Ende jeweils ein Knäuel übrig, von rot fast 2. Hier sollte die Anleitung für die Bestellung angepasst werden.

26.01.2020 - 11:46

country flag Mechthild wrote:

Hallo! Bei der Ärmelblende beschreibt ihr, dass die stillgelegten Maschen auf ein Nadelspiel Nr. 3,5 gelegt werden sollen. Ich vermute, dass sich hier ein Schreibfehler eingeschlichen hat und ihr Nr. 2,5 meint? Liebe Grüße M.

04.06.2019 - 16:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Mechtild, Sie sind ja recht, die Ärmelblende wird mit Nadeln 2, 5 gestrickt, eine Korrektur erfolgt gleich. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.06.2019 - 09:05

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour j’ai une question je suis rendu dos et devant dans le patron il indique de tricoter en jersey et quand l’ouvrage mesure x (depuis la séparation ) que voulez vous dire depuis la séparation? Et que veut dire :rang de cassure ?

04.10.2018 - 04:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, la hauteur depuis séparation correspond à la hauteur tricotée uniquement sur le dos et le devant, après avoir mis les mailles des manches en attente. Le rang de cassure est le tour envers que l'on tricote sur l'endroit, on va ensuite replier la bordure au niveau de ce rang et coudre les mailles rabattues sur l'envers -cf vidéo. Bon tricot!

04.10.2018 - 10:24

country flag Kari wrote:

Takk for svar ang. Lotta tunika. Hvis jeg ikke skal ha mønster hvordan øker jeg for å få 252 masker, når jeg har 105. Er det på hver pinne jeg øker, hvor mange, eller? Beklager at jeg ikke skjønner, men håper på en forklaring. MVH Kari nordstrand

24.06.2018 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari, Du kan følge økningene i A.1 uten å strikke mønster. For eksempel, øk med 1 kast om pinnen hver 5. maske på omgang 3 og hver 6. maske på omgang 8 osv. God fornøyelse!

25.06.2018 - 06:17