DROPS / 180 / 3

Perles du Nord Socks by DROPS Design

Knitted knee socks with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. Sizes 35 - 43. The pieces are worked in DROPS Flora.

Tags: nordic, socks,
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-010
Yarn group A
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Sizes: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg length: 40 - 42 - 44 cm
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g colour 15, green
50-50-50 g colour 16, pistachio
50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

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Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Flora 01, 14, 10.
B) DROPS Flora 01, 07, 08.
C) DROPS Flora 03, 04, 05.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

DECREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 108 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.5.
In this example, you decrease by alternately knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch and every 4th and 5th stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for mid back of knee socks):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3 (for the toe):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To prevent the knitting tension becoming tight when working pattern, it is important that the strands are not tight at the back of the piece. Use a needle one size bigger when working pattern if you find it is tight.

KNITTING TIP-2 (for the heel):
To strengthen the heel, you can work the heel and the heel decrease with 2 strands as follows: Use the strand from the inside and outside of the ball and work 1 stitch alternately with the one and then the other strand. In this way, you will get a slightly thicker heel without using double strands.

HEEL DECREASE: 
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 8-9-9 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 8-9-9 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 7-8-8 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit , pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7-8-8 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
Continue the decreases in this way, by working until there is 1 less stitch left before slipping 1 stitch and until there are 14-14-16 stitches left on the needle.
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KNEE SOCK:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles and from top down. 
Cast on 108-108-116 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and off white. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 24-24-20 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 84-84-96 stitches. Read KNITTING TIP-1 and work A.1 in the round (= 7-7-8 repeats of 12 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the last round in A.1 (marked with a star in the diagram) decrease 4-4-8 stitches evenly on round = 80-80-88 stitches.
Work A.2 in the round (= 10-10-11 repeats of 8 stitches). On the last round in A.2 (marked with a star in the diagram) decrease 2-2-4 stitches evenly on round = 78-78-84 stitches.
Work A.3 in the round (= 13-13-14 repeats of 6 stitches). When A.3 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 23 cm.
Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid back), allow the marker thread to follow the piece as you work. Work stocking stitch in the round with green. When you have worked 2 rounds with green, decrease 2 stitches mid back - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in this way every 5th-7th-7th round a total of 11-9-10 times = 56-60-64 stitches.
When the piece measures 40-42-44 cm (the decreases mid back should now be complete), work the next row as follows: Knit 42-45-48 stitches, then place the last 28-30-32 stitches of these 42-45-48 stitches on 1 thread (= mid top of foot) and knit over the remaining 14-15-16 stitches = 28-30-32 stitches on the needle for the heel.
Read KNITTING TIP-2 and work stocking stitch back and forth over the heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row. Then work HEEL DECREASE – see description above. After the heel decrease work the next round as follows: Knit the 14-14-16 stitches from the heel, knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the side of the heel, knit the stitches from the thread and knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the other side of the heel = 68-72-80 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker on each side of the 28-30-32 stitches on top of the foot. Work stocking stitch in the round and decrease on each side of the 28-30-32 stitches on top of the foot as follows: Knit twisted together the 2 last stitches before the first marker on top of the foot and knit together the 2 first stitches after the last marker on top of the foot. Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 8-8-10 times = 52-56-60 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 18-19-21 cm from the marker on the heel (there are now 4-5-6 cm left before finished length). Insert 1 marker thread in each side so that there are 26-28-30 stitches both on top of and underneath the foot. Decrease for the toe on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 5-8-10 times and then every round a total of 5-2-1 times = 12-16-16 stitches left on the needles. On the next round knit all the stitches together 2 and 2 = 6-8-8 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten the strand well.
Work the other knee sock in the same way.

Diagram

= off white
= green
= pistachio
= decrease round

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Heidi 02.04.2020 - 22:28:

Today the parcel with the wool arrived, I am sooo happy! - These socks are going to be for my daughter. However, my daughter said that the other socks (193-16) are knitted too loosely, so I decided to try with a thinner needle. Now I found out that for the 10 x 10 cm I have 32 stitches and 45 rows!! I will manage to calculate the pattern. My QUESTION is: Based on your experience, do you think the pattern will still look good with these tiny stitches? Or will it look too miniature-like? Thank you

DROPS Design 03.04.2020 kl. 07:56:

Dear Heidi, both patterns, these socks and Nordfjord are worked with same tension, 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. If you work with another tension, you would have to edit the pattern to fit your new tension,otherwise socks won't fit. Read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

Lydia 07.09.2019 - 20:53:

Hej! jag håller på att sticka efter denna design och har gjort klart resåren. Men jag förstår inte hur minskningen ska gå till och jag har läst minskningstips-1, ett fåtal gånger men förstår fortfarande inte när man ska sticka ihop maskorna och allt som hör till. så skulle jag kunna få lite förtydligande på det? tack på förhand! :)

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 10:29:

Hej. Du minskar maskor genom att sticka 2 räta maskor tillsammans. För att veta hur ofta du ska minska för att det ska bli ca jämnt fördelat kan man dela antal m på antal m som ska minskas t.ex som här 108/24= 4,5. Du stickar då varannan gång ihop den 3:e + 4:e maskan och varannan gång den 4:e + 5:e maskan. Dvs. du stickar 2 m, stickar ihop de nästa 2 maskorna, stickar 3 m, stickar ihop de nästa 2 maskorna osv... Lycka till!

Linni 13.03.2019 - 18:04:

Hei! Når det står i oppskriften 100 g farge 15 grønn og 50g farge pistasj- vil det si at jeg trenger bare et garn nøste med 50g for å fullføre sokken?

DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 11:22:

Hej Linni, der står at du skal bruge 100 g fv 15 grøn, 50 g fv 16 pistasj og 50 g fv 01 natur i DROPS Flora . God fornøjelse!

Nisha 20.10.2018 - 11:11:

Er det rigtigt forstået, at diagrammerne skal strikkes nedefra og op? Altså så den række, der er nederst i diagrammet, er den, man strikker først, og den øverste række i diagrammet (med stjernen) er den, man strikker sidst?

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 08:27:

Hei Nisha. Ja, det stemmer. Strikkediagrammer leses alltid fra nederst til øverst, fra høyre mot venstre. Det vil si at du begynner nederst i høyre hjørne og jobber deg mot venstre, rad for rad oppover. God fornøyelse

Pernille Skou 27.10.2017 - 17:12:

I har glemt at tegne pistacie ind i diagrammet

Nancy 01.10.2017 - 20:24:

Worden deze sokken met 4 naalden gebreid en hoeveel per naald zet je dan op? Heb nog nooit sokken gebreid😉maar wil het proberen want ben bezig met de trui ervan en de sokken zijn zo mooi😍

DROPS Design 07.10.2017 kl. 17:03:

Hoi Nancy, Ja, je zet eerst het aantal op te zetten steken op en die verdeel je dan over 3 naalden. Met de 4e naald begin je te breien en zo schuiven de naalden steeds door in de rondte tijdens het breien.

Nieuwendijk R. 31.07.2017 - 16:28:

Prachtig!!! Zeer aangename kleur

Paula 15.06.2017 - 12:15:

Muster und Farbe sehr geschmackvoll.

Desiree Van Der Zweep 07.06.2017 - 13:52:

Ik zou wel een keer een patroon voor sokken willen zien welke bij de tenen begint.

Monique Matser 01.06.2017 - 21:40:

Deze wil ik!

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