DROPS / 180 / 2

Perles du Nord by DROPS Design

The set consists of: Knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. The set is worked in DROPS Flora.

  • Perles du Nord / DROPS 180-2 - The set consists of: Knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern.
The set is worked in DROPS Flora.
  • Perles du Nord / DROPS 180-2 - The set consists of: Knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern.
The set is worked in DROPS Flora.
  • Perles du Nord / DROPS 180-2 - The set consists of: Knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern.
The set is worked in DROPS Flora.
  • Perles du Nord / DROPS 180-2 - The set consists of: Knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern.
The set is worked in DROPS Flora.
  • Perles du Nord / DROPS 180-2 - The set consists of: Knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern.
The set is worked in DROPS Flora.
  • Perles du Nord / DROPS 180-2 - The set consists of: Knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern.
The set is worked in DROPS Flora.
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-008
Yarn group A
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JUMPER:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour 15, green
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 16, pistachio

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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HAT:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
To fit head size: 54/56 - 58/60
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g in both sizes in the following colours:
colour 01, off white
colour 15, green
colour 16, pistachio

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

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Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Flora 01, 14, 10.
B) DROPS Flora 01, 07, 08.
C) DROPS Flora 03, 04, 05.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.95£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 120 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 18) = 6.6.
In this example, decrease by knitting alternately every 5th and 6th stitch and every 6th and 7th stitch together.
If you are increasing, do this after alternately every 6th and 7th stitch (increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted and into the pattern so that there are no holes).

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid back. Start from the right side with off white and knit until you have worked 8-8-9-10-10-11 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 16-16-18-20-20-22 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 24-24-27-30-30-33 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 32-32-36-40-40-44 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 40-40-45-50-50-55 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-48-54-60-60-66 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 56-56-63-70-70-77 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 64-64-72-80-80-88 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back.

PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagrams A.4 and A.5.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. The whole of the pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP (for the multi-coloured pattern):
To prevent the knitting tension from becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands do not tighten at the back of the piece. You can increase the size of your needle when working pattern if you find you are working too tightly.

INCREASE TIP (for the sides of the body):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted so that there are no holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for mid under the sleeve):
Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for the hat):
Decrease after each marker thread as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeve is worked in the round with short circular needle, top down. Change to double pointed needles when you have decreased enough stitches.  

NECKLINE:
Cast on 120-124-128-132-140-148 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and off white. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 3 cm, knit 1 round where you decrease 18-16-14-12-14-16 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 102-108-114-120-126-132 stitches. Continue to work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 round. For a better fit you can now work a small ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above.
When the elevation is complete, work A.1 in the round (= 17-18-19-20-21-22 repeats of 6 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram. Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the round marked with a star in A.1 (i.e. the next to last round in A.1) there are 221-234-247-260-315-330 stitches on the needle, increase at the same time 11-22-33-36-21-22 stitches evenly on this round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 232-256-280-296-336-352 stitches.
When A.1 is complete, work A.2 in the round (= 29-32-35-37-42-44 repeats of 8 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way, but on the round marked with a star in A.2 (i.e. the next to last round in A.2) increase 8-16-24-24-16-16 stitches evenly on round = 240-272-304-320-352-368 stitches.
When A.2 is complete, work A.3 in the round (= 15-17-19-20-22-23 repeats of 16 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram.
When the last round in A.3 remains (marked with an arrow in each size) there are 315-357-399-420-462-483 stitches on the needle, increase at the same time 11-11-1-12-0-5 stitches evenly on the round = 326-368-400-432-462-488 stitches.
The piece now measures approx. 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm from the cast-on edge, measured mid front. NOTE: If the piece measures less than this, continue working stocking stitch with green to the required length.
The next round is worked as follows: Knit 50-55-59-65-71-76 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), knit 99-109-117-130-141-151 stitches (= front piece), place the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and knit the remaining 49-54-58-65-70-75 stitches (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 218-238-258-284-310-334 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve in each side. Start the round by one of the marker threads and work stocking stitch in the round with green. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 10th round (approx. every 3 cm) until required length (if the knitting tension is correct in height, there should be approx. 9 increase rows in each side).
When the piece measures 30 cm from the division in all sizes, there are approx 254-274-294-320-346-370 stitches on the needle.
Knit 1 round where you increase 82-90-98-104-114-122 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 336-364-392-424-460-492 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over on the needle after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on a short circular needle size 3 mm and in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 74-85-95-98-104-109 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under the sleeve. Start the round here and work stocking stitch in the round with green. When the sleeve measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease a total of 11-15-19-19-21-22 times in S: Every 9th round, in M: Every 6th round, in L and XL: Every 4th round, in XXL: Alternately every 3rd and 4th round and in XXXL: Every 3rd round = 52-55-57-60-62-65 stitches. When the sleeve measures 31-29-28-26-25-23 cm from the division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to longer yoke), knit 1 round where you increase 16-17-19-20-18-19 stitches evenly on round = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 10 cm (or desired length) cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to prevent the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 41-39-38-36-35-33 cm from the division. Work the second sleeve in the same way.
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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles as the number of stitches decreases.
Cast on 128-136 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and off white. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Change to short circular needle size 3 mm and knit 2 rounds – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round, increase 4-8 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 132-144 stitches. Work A.4 in the round (= 11-12 repeats of 12 stitches). On the last round in A.4 (marked with a star in the diagram), decrease 4-8 stitches evenly on round = 128-136 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Now work A.5 in the round (= 16-17 repeats of 8 stitches). On the next to last round in A.5 (marked with a star in the diagram), decrease 8-4 stitches evenly on round = 120-132 stitches. The piece now measures approx. 16 cm in height. Continue working stocking stitch with green until the piece measures 20-23 cm. Insert 10-11 marker threads in the piece with 12 stitches between each marker thread. On the next round, decrease 1 stitch after each marker thread – read DECREASE TIP (= 10-11 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 8 times and then every round a total of 2 times = 20-22 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together, 2 and 2 = 10-11 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten the strand and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 25-28 cm top down.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = green
symbols = pistachio
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with background colour in pattern strip, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes
symbols = increase round
symbols = decrease round
symbols = finish after this round
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (88)

country flag Carina 24.11.2021 - 12:05:

Hola. Podría hacer este jersey con Drops Lima, reduciendo una talla o dos?

country flag Michaela Knaus 20.09.2021 - 17:25:

Betrifft Muster A3 Gr . XL-XXl-XXXl , durch die Zunahme von 22 Maschen nach jeder 18. Masche stimmt der komplette weitere Musterverlauf nicht mehr mit dem unteren Muster überein, das ganze Muster verschiebt sich ab er Reihe 11, Toll da hat mab bis dahin wohl alles umsonst gestrickt oder habt ihr vom Dropsteam da eine Lösung?????

country flag Elisabeth Delaplace 12.09.2021 - 12:38:

Bonjour Jeannette, J’ai un problème pour le nombre de mailles à l’avant dernier rang d’A 1 pour la taille xl, j’obtiens 212 mailles au lieu de 260🥲. Je suis partie de 120 après les 12 diminutions et j’ai augmenté ainsi : Rg 3 6 mailles Rg 5. 18 mailles Rg 9. 36 mailles Rg. 13 16 mailles Rg 19. 16 mailles Merci de me dire où je me suis trompée. Par avance un grand merci pour votre rèponse et bonne fin de journée, Elisabeth

user icon DROPS Design 13.09.2021 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour Élisabeth, vous augmentez dans A.1 ainsi: 1 m au 3ème (vous avez désormais 7m dans chaque A.1) et au 5ème rang (8 m), 2 m au 9ème rang (10 m), 1 m au 11ème (11 m), 13ème (12 m) et 19ème (13 m) rang, vous avez ainsi bien 13 m x 20 motifs tout le tour = 260 mailles. Bon tricot!

country flag DELAPLACE 02.09.2021 - 15:38:

Bonjour, Juste pour vous demander où je peux trouver la grille des différentes tailles’ afin de choisir la bonne taille en fonction de mes mensurations ? Par avance, je vous en remercie, bonne fin de journée Elisabeth Delaplace

user icon DROPS Design 02.09.2021 kl. 16:44:

Bonjour Mme Delaplace, pour trouver la taille à tricoter, mesurez un vêtement analogue que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme, et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma. Vous retrouverez toutes ces infos et plus encore ici. Bon tricot!

country flag Huser Irene 08.05.2021 - 18:01:

Ich stricke das Modell 180 - 2 in Grösse S. Bei A3 nehme ich ja in Reihe 11 nach jeweils 18 Maschen eine Masche auf. Ist es richtig, dass ich dann in Reihe 12 zwischen den grünen Maschen 4 aber manchmal auch 5 weisse Maschen habe?

user icon DROPS Design 10.05.2021 kl. 11:00:

Liebe Frau Huser, bei der 11. Reihe in A.3 wird der Umschlag am Anfang jeder A.3 sein (= 1 Umschlag, 18 Maschen stricken) und von (bis) die ganze Runde wiederholen, so daß der Umschlag am Anfang von jedem Diagram wird bei der 12. Runde eine grüne Masche sein. Und so stricken Sie bei der 12. Runde (1 M mit grün, 4 M mit natur, 1 M mit grün, 4 M mit natur, 1 M mit grün, 4 M mit natur, 1 M mit grün, 3 M mit natur). Das diagram genau so wie gezeigt stricken, bei der 15.Reihe nehmen Sie am Ende von jedem A.3 zu (so werden jedes Muster gleich sein). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Markéta 08.04.2021 - 17:55:

Dobrý den, pletu velikost XL , mám hotové sedlo a vůbec nesedí na těle. Těsně pod průkrčníkem je řada s ujímáním , tudíž lem divně trčí, je vyboulený. Asi 10 cm pod krkem se udělá varhánek . Zkusila jsem i vyprat. Neutahuji. Zřejmě špatně rozložené přidávání ok ??? Nevím co s tím, vzor se mi líbí a těch hodin s tím strávených 😔

country flag Laura 08.02.2021 - 19:16:

Buonasera, grazie per i video suggeriti. Purtroppo li avevo già visti e non risolvono il problema. Nel primo lo scalino viene saltato sulla seconda riga dello stesso colore, nel secondo non c’è un inizio giro definito 😞. Voi come fate?

country flag Laura 07.02.2021 - 12:56:

Buongiorno, come faccio ad evitare lo “scalino” alla fine del giro? Ho guardato il tutorials e ho visto quello sulle righe, ma non si può applicare al motivo nordico quando c’è il cambio di colore all’inizio del giro. Come devo fare? Grazie mille

user icon DROPS Design 07.02.2021 kl. 22:58:

Buonasera Laura, ha guardato questi 2 video? e . Buon lavoro!

country flag Jette 01.02.2021 - 07:28:

Jeg kan ikke se udtagningerne der skal være i diagrammet A1

user icon DROPS Design 01.02.2021 kl. 15:31:

Hei Jette. I diagram A.1 ser du en stjerne i nest øverste rad. Hvordan det skal økes (les FELLE-/ØKETIPS) og hvor mange masker i de enkelte størrelsene står i oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

country flag Brigitte Mangon 18.01.2021 - 21:59:

Bonsoir, pourquoi le diagramme ne s'imprime pas je sais imprimer les explications mais impossible par contre d'imprimer les diagrammes ??

user icon DROPS Design 19.01.2021 kl. 07:37:

Bonjour Mme Mangon, les diagrammes sont censés pouvoir être imprimés, vérifiez dans les paramètres si votre imprimante n'a pas sauvegardé un nombre de pages inférieur à celui du modèle. Bon tricot!

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