DROPS / 180 / 16

Solfest by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with cables and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-245
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-650-700-750-800 g colour 2923, golden rod

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM for rib/garter stitch edge – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

DECREASE TIP (for body):
Decrease as follows by both marker threads: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread: Knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Increase as follows mid under the sleeve – start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease 2 stitches in each transition between body and sleeves. Start 2 stitches before A.2/A.3, knit 2 together, work A.2/A.3, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

ELEVATION (for back of neck):
Cut the strand. Continue working as follows – starting after 11-13-16-18-19-20 stitches on the back piece (= mid back): Work stocking stitch, A.2 and A.3 as before.
Insert 1 marker in the next stitch on the row (= mid back). Start from the right side and work 36-37-39-41-43-45 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and work 73-75-79-83-87-91 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and work 67-69-73-77-81-85 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and work 61-63-67-71-75-79 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and work to mid back. Cut the strand. The round now starts at the same place as before, i.e. 16-17-19-21-23-25 stitches towards the right (seen from the right side) at the marker mid back.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked bottom up. The body is worked in the round with circular needle and the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles before they are worked together and you work the yoke in the round with circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 166-178-194-210-226-246 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Nepal. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 83-89-97-105-113-123 stitches (the marker threads mark the sides of the garment). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 11 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread (= 4 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 4 cm a total of 7 times = 138-150-166-182-198-218 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-38-38-38-38 cm cast off 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of each marker thread (= 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches in each side) = 61-67-73-81-87-95 stitches on the front/back piece. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and Nepal. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2). When the piece measures 6 cm change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Knit 1 round and decrease 8-8-8-6-8-8 stitches evenly on round = 36-36-40-42-44-44 stitches. Work stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve). When the piece measures 8 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 4-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm a total of 8-11-12-13-13-15 times = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. When the piece measures 40-39-38-37-36-34 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of longer yoke) cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 44-50-54-58-58-60 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle size 5.5 mm as the body where you have cast off stitches for the armholes = 210-234-254-278-290-310 stitches.
Continue working as follows – start the round after 5-4-3-3-4-5 stitches on the back piece: Work * 51-59-67-75-79-85 stitches stocking stitch, A.1 (= 12 stitches), 30-34-36-40-42-46 stitches stocking stitch, A.1 over the next 12 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 2 times. When A.1 has been completed in height 1 time, there are 226-250-270-294-306-326 stitches on the needle.
Now continue working as follows: Work * 51-59-67-75-79-85 stitches stocking stitch, A.2 (= 16 stitches), 30-34-36-40-42-46 stitches stocking stitch, A.3 (= 16 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times. Continue with pattern and decrease to RAGLAN – see description above.
Decrease every 4th round 6-6-6-6-7-7 times, then every 2nd round 8-10-11-13-13-15 times (= a total of 14-16-17-19-20-22 times).
After all the decreases, there are 114-122-134-142-146-150 stitches on the round. For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above.
On the next round, decrease 4 stitches over each of A.2 and A.3 = 98-106-118-126-130-134 stitches.
The next round is worked as follows: Work * 33-35-39-43-47-51 stitches stocking stitch and decrease 3-4-7-9-10-11 stitches evenly on round, knit the next 16-18-20-20-18-16 stitches together 2 and 2, *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches. Purl 1 round. The yoke measures approx. 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm.

NECK:
Knit 1 round and increase 8 stitches evenly on round = 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches. Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.06.2019
Correction - ELEVATION: Continue working as follows – starting after 11-13-16-18-19-20 stitches on the back piece (= mid back)
Updated online: 31.10.2019
SLEEVES:...Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve). When the piece measures 8 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP....

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to prevent holes
= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches from cable needle
= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Rosanne 09.02.2020 - 17:08:

Of moet de laatste zin van de instructie voor de Verhoging misschien zijn: “ De naald begint nu op dezelfde plaats als hiervoor, dus 16 steken richting de rechterkant VANAF (in plaats van OP) de markeerdraad midden achter.”? Dan beginnen de 33 steken net in de kabel rechts achter en lopen precies over het middenachtergedeelte. Klopt dit?

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 23:37:

Dag Rosanne,

De naald moet je inderdaad beginnen bij waar je was voordat je begon met de verhoging, dus het zou inderdaad zo kunnen zijn dat de minderingen over het voor- en achterpand gemaakt moeten worden.

Rosanne 09.02.2020 - 16:54:

Dank! Nog een laatste vraag: van waar gerekend begint men met de 33 volgende steken. M.a.w. Waar moeten de 16 steken 2 aan 2 recht samen geplaatst worden? Zijn deze 16 steken midden boven de mouwen of midden voor en midden achter? Heel hartelijk dank voor uw hulp.

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 23:31:

Dag Rosanne,

Het was even puzzelen, maar ik denk dat het de bedoeling is dat je eerst 23 steken breit (in plaats van 33) en dan de volgende 16 steken 2 aan 2 samen breit, deze 16 steken zijn de 12 steken van de raglan, 2 steken van de mouw en nog 12 steken van de raglan. Dit herhaal je vervolgens nog een keer. Dus niet 2 aan 2 samenbreien op de voor- en achterpanden, maar over de raglan- en mouwsteken. Er zit dus denk ik een foutje in het patroon en ik zal dit even doorgeven aan design ter controle

Rosanne 06.02.2020 - 16:12:

Dank u wel. Als ik de verhoging heb gemaakt moet ik 4 steken minderen over elk van de A2 en A3. Echter: dit is tevens de 9e naald van A2 en A3, en moet ik de kabels maken. Hoe combineer ik dit? Waar plaats ik de minderingen?

DROPS Design 09.02.2020 kl. 11:10:

Dag Rosanne,

Het idee is dat je aan het einde van de kabels, dus vlak voordat je de hals rand maakt en klaar bent met de kabels, 4 steken boven elke kabel mindert. Dit doe je door 4 keer 2 steken samen te breien.

Rosanne 29.01.2020 - 09:31:

En graag ook advies over de minderingen vervolgens in A2 en A3: hoe verdeel ik de 4 minderingen? Over de kabels of ook in de 2 x 2 avrechte steken? Hartelijk dank!

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 08:25:

Dag Rosanne,

Deze zou ik zo veel mogelijk over de kabels zelf verdelen en niet over de averechte steken.

Rosanne 27.01.2020 - 16:40:

Hallo. Dank voor het mooie filmpje! De pas is me gelukt. Ik loop echter vast bij de verhoging. Ik moet voor de verhoging vanaf midden achter 36 steken breien (maat S) en dan keren. Ik kom dan halverwege A3 uit, halverwege de kabelrand op de mouw voor. Moet ik daar echt keren? Idem voor de teruggaande steken: 73 steken terug komt uit bij de kabelrand op de andere mouw voor. Dan worden de kabelranden toch vreemd uitgerekt? Kunt u mij helpen? Hartelijk dank.

DROPS Design 04.02.2020 kl. 22:59:

Dag Rosanne,

Ja, het is inderdaad de bedoeling om daar te keren. Er staat trouwens dat je tricotsteek moet breien, maar je kunt bij de kabel de steken averecht breien, die in de kabel ook averecht zijn gebreid. Op die manier sluit het patroon beter aan.

Anne Marie 30.10.2019 - 19:32:

Obs, mener dette må være en feil i oppskriften. Under "erme" : "Når arbeidet måler 8 cm økes det 2 masker på hver side av merketråden – les ØKETIPS.". Vil tro det er meningen at man skal øke 1 maske på hver side av merketråden? Altså 2 masker på en omgang.

DROPS Design 31.10.2019 kl. 06:52:

Hej. Tack för info, oppskriften kommer att rättas. Mvh DROPS Design

Coraline 21.06.2019 - 14:48:

Bonjour . J’ai fini le pull il est parfait . Par contre ma taille (je suis petite et mince) j’ai du tricoter avec des aiguilles n•4 donc j’ai pu suivre parfaitement le nombre de maille du modèle mais je n’ai pas pu avoir l’échantillon . Est ce que c’est une erreur ? Ou est ce je dois utiliser toujours une taille d’aiguille plus petite que celle proposée dans les modèles pour ma taille ? Tous les autres modèles en taille small sont toujours trop grands ..,.

DROPS Design 24.06.2019 kl. 08:43:

Bonjour Coraline, en prenant une aiguille plus fine (et donc sans l'échantillon), vous modifiez automatiquement les mesures finales du schéma, toutefois, la texture de votre ouvrage peut être également plus dense (car la tension est plus serrée) que dans le modèle présenté. N'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin si besoin - même par mail ou téléphone, on pourra également vous aider à ajuster à votre taille. Bon tricot!

Coraline 19.06.2019 - 13:08:

Vraiment un grand merci pour votre aide détaillée ! C’est très apprécié car ce n’est pas toujours facile quand on débute et grâce à vos conseils c’est encourageant et on peut petit à petit gagner en confiance en soi . Merci infiniment!

Coraline 19.06.2019 - 03:33:

Et concernant l’étape « Au tour suivant, diminuer 4 mailles au-dessus de chaque A.2 et A.3 = 98 mailles » Comment diminue t on ? A2 exemple a 16 mailles ? Est ce que toutes les 4 mailles on tricote 2 mailles ensemble ? Même si ça concerne les mailles envers ? Ou juste des mailles endroits ? Merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 19.06.2019 kl. 08:04:

Bonjour Coraline, vous devez diminuer 4 m dans les torsades de A.2 et A.3 pour bien conserver la bonne largeur (les torsades nécessitent plus de mailles pour la même largeur), diminuez en tricotant 4 fois 2 m ens à l'end au-dessus des 12 m endroit de A.2/A.3. Bon tricot!

Coraline 19.06.2019 - 03:20:

En essayant à partir de 16 mailles dans le dos , j’ai tricoté 36 mailles et je suis arrivé à 11 mailles du diagramme de A3 après les 7 maille jersey du dos les 16 mailles de A2 et les 2 mailles de manche et donc 11 mailles de A3 avant de tourner et aller dans l’autre sens ? Est ce que c’est correct ?

DROPS Design 19.06.2019 kl. 08:03:

Bonjour Coraline, j'ai trouvé comme vous, donc c'est ce que j'aurai à priori fait, en attendant une réponse de nos stylistes.

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