DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 179
  6. 30

Autumn Vines

Jumper with leaf pattern and raglan, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Alpaca.

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DROPS 179-30

#autumnvinessweater

DROPS design: Pattern z-797
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 2925, rust

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch (24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch) = width 10 cm and height 10 cm.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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related pattern
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

CAST-OFF TIP:
Make 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn over as stitch) to make the cast-off edge more elastic.
----------------------------------------------------------

Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down.

JUMPER:
Cast on 96-100-106-112-118-124 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 12-24-22-24-22-12 stitches evenly = 108-124-128-136-140-136 stitches. Purl 1 round.

Work next round as follows: 20-22-22-25-28-30 stitches in garter stitch (= half back piece), A.1 (= 1 stitch), work 12-16-18-16-12-6 stitches in garter stitch (= sleeve), A.1, work 40-44-44-50-56-60 stitches in garter stitch (= front piece), A.1, work 12-16-18-16-12-6 stitches in garter stitch (= sleeve), A.1, work 20-22-22-25-28-30 stitches in garter stitch (= half back piece). 

Continue in garter stitch and A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work A.1 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total vertically, make sure that first stitch in A.1 is directly above middle stitch in previous repetition = 324-364-392-424-460-488 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 20-23-25-27-30-33 cm from cast-on edge.

Work next round as follows: Work 48-53-56-62-69-75 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 66-76-84-88-92-94 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve), work 96-106-112-124-138-150 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 66-76-84-88-92-94 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve) and work the remaining 48-53-56-62-69-75 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 212-232-248-272-304-332 stitches. Continue in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast on (= 106-116-124-136-152-166 stitches on front piece and on back piece) – Now measure piece from here! When piece measures 10 and 20 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in the sides = 4 stitches increased every time = 220-240-256-280-312-340 stitches. When piece measures 28-27-27-27-26-25 cm, cast off loosely - READ CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE: 
Work sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. Slip the 66-76-84-88-92-94 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and cast in addition on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitch mid under sleeve = 76-86-96-100-106-110 stitches – Now measure piece from here! Continue sleeve in stocking stitch. When piece measures 3 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve. Decrease every 2½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm 13-17-20-21-23-24 times in total = 50-52-56-58-60-62 stitches. When piece measures 38-36-34-33-30-28 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work in GARTER STITCH over all stitches - see explanation above. When sleeve measures 42-40-38-37-34-32 cm, cast off LOOSELY - READ CAST-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round knit or purl (as pattern shows) yarn over to make holes
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Autumn Vines

Maria, Sweden

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 179-30

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Edith wrote:

Joli modèle, dommage qu’il soit à réajuster en taille et en motif, pour obtenir un beau résultat . Pourriez-vous refaire des photos zoomées sur le détail des points fantaisies pour les patrons en général, cela aiderait à comprendre quand les explications manquent de clarté ? Merci

04.10.2024 - 14:12

country flag Jutta Pinnerød wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke hvor jeg skal øke masker?

23.01.2022 - 13:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jutta. Du ökar maskor enligt diagram A.1. Mvh DROPS Design

24.01.2022 - 07:27

country flag Anne wrote:

Bonjour, En effet, je remarque aussi tout comme Marion, que le motif est répété 3 fois dans l'explication, alors que sur la photo, il semble être répété 2 fois ; ou alors le 3e motif est sous le bras (ce qui semble étrange) ? Merci d'avance.

25.01.2021 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anne, la fin du 3ème motif en hauteur se trouve tout à la fin de l'emmanchure et légèrement sous la manche - on peut le deviner sur la 1ère photo. Bon tricot!

25.01.2021 - 16:11

country flag Marion wrote:

Deuxième question : quel type d'augmentation faut-il faire ? Simple jeté, maille tricotée deux fois où augmentation intercalaire ? Il n'y a pas de précision dans les explications. Merci par avance pour votre réponse.

20.12.2020 - 09:41

country flag Marion wrote:

Bonjour, je m'apprête à commencer ce modèle et plusieurs choses me paraissent bizarres entre le patron et la photo. Le col sur le patron me paraît plus serré que celui de la photo. J\'ai fait un produit en croix par rapport à l\'échantillon et j\'obtiens 41cm pour le col en taille M or ma tête ne passe pas dans ce cas. De plus sur la photo on voit le motif de dentelle répété deux fois alors que dans le patron on le répète 3 fois. Bref je suis perdue. A l\'aide !

19.12.2020 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marion, désolée pour le retard de la réponse. Montez vos mailles bien souplement pour que le montage ne soit pas trop serré. Le motif du raglan se tricote bien 3 fois en hauteur, on peut le deviner sur la 1ère photo où on voit le début de la feuille (l'emmanchure est ici un peu serrée car le modèle resserre le bras, mais c"'est bien juste ainsi). Bon tricot!

25.01.2021 - 16:14

country flag Marie wrote:

Danke für die rasche Antwort. Das macht die Sache klarer. Nach wie vor unklar ist, ob die geraden Reihen so gearbeitet werden müssen wie im Diagramm gezeichnet oder genau umgekehrt. In der Legende heißt es bei der Erklärung der kleinen schwarzen Ellipse\r\n\"= 1 Umschlag zwischen 2 Maschen, in der nächsten Runde den Umschlag rechts verschränkt stricken\". Im Diagramm eingezeichnet ist in der nächsten Runde an der Stelle aber eine linke Masche, keine rechte

16.08.2019 - 11:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marie, also bei der 3. Reihe wird dieser Umschlag rechts verschränkt gestrickt, aber es sieht so aus, daß die anderen immer links verschränkt gestrickt werden, unser Design Team wird das noch mal prüfen, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.08.2019 - 12:33

country flag Marie wrote:

Hallo! Zeigt das Diagramm alle Runden an, also auch die links gestrickten? Wieso sollen diese Runden dann von links nach rechts gelesen werden? Man kommt in der Runde doch immer von rechts. Oder ist das Diagramm so angelegt, dass man es mit Hin-Und Rückreisen Stricken muss und für die Runde muss man entsprechend verkehrt herum denken (und rechte Maschen wären dann in der Runde linke und andersherum)? Ich bin verwirrt.

15.08.2019 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marie, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, wenn Sie in der Runde gestrickt sind, sollen alle Reihen von rechts nach links gelesen werden. Deutsche Anleitung wird angepasst, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.08.2019 - 09:02

country flag Michaela wrote:

Hej. Bladmønstret på min cardigan bølger en del eller stikker ud fra retstrikken. Kan jeg presse min cardigan på bladmønstret så det kommer mere i plan med den retstrikkede baggrund? Hvordan presser jeg bedst retstrik? På forhånd tak

24.04.2019 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Michaela. Du kan forsøke å dampe plagget lett, men det er litt ulikt hvor kraftig strykejern er så vi anbefaler at du strikker en prøvelapp og damper den først. God fornøyelse

26.04.2019 - 14:10

country flag Angela wrote:

Nel punto in cui finisce il giro a diritto ed inizia il giro a rovescio per ottenere la maglia a legaccio, quindi nel mezzo dietro, si forma una riga evidente perpendicolarmente al lavoro. E' corretto o si può ovviare in qualche modo? grazie

16.09.2017 - 19:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Angela. Purtroppo nel punto a legaccio lo scalino rimane. Può provare a tringere un po' la seconda maglia del giro; può eventualmente provare a inizio giro, a sollevare il filo tra le maglie e lavorarla con la prima maglia del giro. Ma in entrambi i casi, un po' il passaggio continua a vedersi. Buon lavoro!

17.09.2017 - 12:26

country flag Marina Romano wrote:

Liebes Drops Team Habe den Pullover mit Blattmuster (Drops 179-30) angefangen zu stricken, in Größe L. Nun weiß ich nicht, welches Diagramm ich nehmen muss. Verstehe ich irgendwie nicht. Können sie mir weiterhelfen? Liebe Grüße und vielen Dank

09.08.2017 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Romano, in der Größe L stricken Sie Diagram "A.1 L-XXXL", ganz unten (= 3. von oben). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.08.2017 - 17:07

Autumn Vines



Jumper with leaf pattern and raglan, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS 179-30
DROPS design: Pattern z-797
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 2925, rust

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch (24 stitches and 48 rows in garter stitch) = width 10 cm and height 10 cm.
----------------------------------------------------------

INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

CAST-OFF TIP:
Make 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn over as stitch) to make the cast-off edge more elastic.
----------------------------------------------------------

Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down.

JUMPER:
Cast on 96-100-106-112-118-124 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 12-24-22-24-22-12 stitches evenly = 108-124-128-136-140-136 stitches. Purl 1 round.

Work next round as follows: 20-22-22-25-28-30 stitches in garter stitch (= half back piece), A.1 (= 1 stitch), work 12-16-18-16-12-6 stitches in garter stitch (= sleeve), A.1, work 40-44-44-50-56-60 stitches in garter stitch (= front piece), A.1, work 12-16-18-16-12-6 stitches in garter stitch (= sleeve), A.1, work 20-22-22-25-28-30 stitches in garter stitch (= half back piece). 

Continue in garter stitch and A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work A.1 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total vertically, make sure that first stitch in A.1 is directly above middle stitch in previous repetition = 324-364-392-424-460-488 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 20-23-25-27-30-33 cm from cast-on edge.

Work next round as follows: Work 48-53-56-62-69-75 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 66-76-84-88-92-94 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve), work 96-106-112-124-138-150 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 66-76-84-88-92-94 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve) and work the remaining 48-53-56-62-69-75 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 212-232-248-272-304-332 stitches. Continue in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast on (= 106-116-124-136-152-166 stitches on front piece and on back piece) – Now measure piece from here! When piece measures 10 and 20 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in the sides = 4 stitches increased every time = 220-240-256-280-312-340 stitches. When piece measures 28-27-27-27-26-25 cm, cast off loosely - READ CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE: 
Work sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. Slip the 66-76-84-88-92-94 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and cast in addition on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitch mid under sleeve = 76-86-96-100-106-110 stitches – Now measure piece from here! Continue sleeve in stocking stitch. When piece measures 3 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve. Decrease every 2½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm 13-17-20-21-23-24 times in total = 50-52-56-58-60-62 stitches. When piece measures 38-36-34-33-30-28 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work in GARTER STITCH over all stitches - see explanation above. When sleeve measures 42-40-38-37-34-32 cm, cast off LOOSELY - READ CAST-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit
symbol = purl
symbol = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round knit or purl (as pattern shows) yarn over to make holes
symbol = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbol = knit 2 together
symbol = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbol = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together

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