DROPS Baby / 29 / 1

My Fairy by DROPS Design

This set is made up of: Dress for Christening or special occasions worked top down with raglan and lace pattern in DROPS Cotton Merino. Knitted hat with lace pattern in DROPS Cotton Merino. Baby sizes 0 - 2 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-001-by
Yarn group B
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DRESS:
Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2) years
Sizes in cm: 52/68 - 68/80 - 80/86 (92)
Total length:
36-38-47 (49) cm (dress of normal length)
80-82-91 (93) cm (long dress)
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300 (350) g colour 01, off white (for the dress of normal length)
400-450-500 (600) g colour 01, off white (for the long dress)

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 30 rows lace pattern on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 MM – for the garter stitch edges and lace border.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM – for the picot edge.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (white) NO 600: 3 items in all sizes.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 2.5-3 metres silk ribbon (approx. 25 mm wide).

HAT:
Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2) years
For head measurements: approx. 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50) cm
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50-100 (100) g colour 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 34 rows lace pattern on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM – for the picot edge.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 1 metre silk ribbon (approx. 15 mm wide).
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DRESS:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly along the row, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 25) = 3.84. In other words, in this example you increase after approx. every 4 stitches.
Increase by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease on each side of the marker thread mid under the sleeve as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the stitch with the marker thread. Increase as follows: Start just before the stitch with the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for the buttonholes on the right band at the back (when the garment is worn).
1 buttonhole = knit the second and third stitch from the edge together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row, knit the yarn overs so that there are holes.
Decrease for the buttonholes when the piece measures:
SIZE 0/6 MONTHS: 2, 5 and 8 cm.
SIZE 6/12 MONTHS: 2, 5 and 8 cm.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 2, 6 and 10 cm.
SIZE 2 YEARS: 2, 6 and 10 cm.
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DRESS:
The piece is worked top down. It is worked back and forth from mid back until the band at the back is finished, then the piece is worked in the round to desired length (normal dress length or long dress) – see description in the text.

YOKE:
Cast on 50-54-54 (58) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Cotton Merino. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 21 stitches evenly along the row (increase after approx. every 2nd stitch and do not increase over the outermost 3 stitches in each side) = 71-75-75 (79) stitches on the needle.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (start mid back – NOTE: Do NOT work the stitches whilst inserting the marker threads): Skip the first 10-11-11 (12) stitches (= right back piece when the garment is worn), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip the next 12 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip the next 20-22-22 (24) stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip the next 12 stitches (= sleeve) and insert the last marker thread in the next stitch (there are now 13-14-14 (15) stitches on the row after the last marker thread (= left back piece).
READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work stocking stitch back and forth from mid back, but the 3 outermost stitches in each side are worked in garter stitch (= bands). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember BUTTONHOLE on the right band – see description above.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side, increase to RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads – see description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 11-13-15 (16) times = 159-179-195 (207) stitches. After the final increase to raglan work the next row from the wrong side as follows: Work 25-28-30 (32) stitches as before (= left back piece), place the next 34-38-42 (44) stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8 (8) new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), work the next 44-50-54 (58) stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 34-38-42 (44) stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8 (8) new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve) and work the remaining 22-25-27 (29) stitches as before (= right back piece). The yoke is now finished and the body and sleeves are worked separately.

BODY: 
Insert 1 marker in the piece – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Start mid back, lay the 3 band stitches on the left back piece under the 3 band stitches on the right back piece (so that the band with the buttonholes is on top). Work in the round and knit 1 round over all stitches and AT THE SAME TIME knit the stitches from the two bands together 2 and 2 = 100-112-124 (132) stitches on the needle. Continue working stocking stitch in the round for 1-2-2 (3) cm – decrease AT THE SAME TIME 4-8-12 (12) stitches evenly along the first round = 96-104-112 (120) stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been completed, change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you increase 25-29-33 (37) stitches evenly – READ INCREASE TIP = 121-133-145 (157) stitches. Continue to work pattern in the round as follows: A.2A (= 2 stitches), A.2B (= 12 stitches) a total of 9-10-11 (12) times and A.2C (= 11 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way, but follow the description onwards for the desired length (dress of normal length or long dress).

DRESS OF NORMAL LENGTH:
When A.2 has been completed 1 time in height in all sizes, continue with pattern in the same way, but now work A.3 instead of A.2. When A.3 has been completed 1 time in height you have increased 2 stitches in each repeat of the lace pattern = 141-155-169 (183) stitches on the needle. Continue working pattern as before, but now work A.4 instead of A.3. When A.4 has been worked 1-1-2 (2) times in height (or to desired length) work A.5 instead of A.4. After A.5 there are 161-177-193 (209) stitches on the needle. Now work pattern according to diagram A.9 in the same way for approx. 5 cm, i.e. work A.9A (= 2 sts), A.9B (= 16 stitches) a total of 9-10-11 (12) times and A.9C (= 15 stitches). Work 4 rounds stocking stitch. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work A.1 in the round over all the stitches before LOOSELY casting off (NOTE: On round 5 in A.1 knit the last stitch of the round). The dress measures approx. 36-38-47 (49) cm from the shoulder down.

LONG DRESS:
When A.2 has been completed 1 time in height in all sizes, continue with pattern in the same way, but now work A.3 instead of A.2. When A.3 has been completed 1 time in height you have increased 2 stitches in each repeat of the lace pattern = 141-155-169 (183) stitches. Continue working pattern as before, but now work A.4 instead of A.3. When A.4 has been worked 2-2-3 (3) times in height, work pattern in the same way, but now with A.5 instead of A.4. When A.5 has been completed 1 time in height you have increased 2 stitches in each repeat of the lace pattern = 161-177-193 (209) stitches. Continue working pattern as before, but with A.6 instead of A.5. When A.6 has been completed 2 times in height in all sizes (or to desired length), work A.7 instead of A.6. When A.7 has been completed 1 time in height you have increased 2 stitches in each repeat of the lace pattern = 181-199-217 (235) stitches. Work 1 repeat of A.8 in height. After A.8 there are 201-221-241 (261) stitches on the needle. Now work pattern according to diagram A.10 in the same way for approx. 5 cm, i.e. work A.10A (= 2 stitches), A.10B (= 20 stitches) a total of 9-10-11 (12) times and A.10C (= 19 stitches). Work 4 rounds stocking stitch. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work A.1 in the round over all stitches before LOOSELY casting off (NOTE: On round 5 in A.1 knit the last stitch on the round). The dress measures approx. 80-82-91 (93) cm from the shoulder down.

BOTH DRESSES:

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm. Knit 1 round and knit up in addition 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8 (8) new stitches mid under the sleeve = 40-44-50 (52) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= the round begins mid under the sleeve) – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm in all sizes decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 3-2½-2 (2) cm a total of 4-6-8 (8) times = 32-32-34 (36) stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 16-18-20 (23) cm. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work 2 RIDGES – see description above, before loosely casting off with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

PICOT EDGE:
Work a picot edge at the bottom of both sleeves with crochet hook size 3 mm as follows: 1 double crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip 2 stitches on the sleeve, 1 double crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-*, but finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the double crochet at the beginning of the round (instead of 1 double crochet in the next stitch).
Work the same picot edge along the neckline in the transition between the garter stitch edge and the stocking stitch section on the yoke – NOTE: The edge is worked top down.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten 3 buttons on the left band at the back.
Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of holes on the yoke (start and finish mid front) and tie a bow mid front.
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HAT:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for mid piece on the back of the hat):
Decrease inside the outermost stitch in garter stitch in each side. All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the first stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease as follows before the last stitch in garter stitch: Start 2 stitches before the last stitch in garter stitch and knit 2 together.
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HAT: 
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 70-78-82 (90) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 3 mm and Cotton Merino. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 7-3-7 (3) stitches evenly along the row = 63-75-75 (87) stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2A (= 2 stitches), A.2B (= 12 stitches) a total of 4-5-5 (6) times, A.2C (= 11 stitches) and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 12-13-14 (15) cm work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cut the strand. Now place the outermost 23-28-28 (33) stitches in each side on separate threads or extra needle = 17-19-19 (21) stitches left on the row (= mid piece at the back of the hat). Work garter stitch back and forth over the mid piece AT THE SAME TIME as the last stitch on each row (both from the right and wrong side) is knitted together with the first stitch on the thread/extra needle. Continue in this way. AT THE SAME TIME when the mid piece measures 4 cm in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch in each side of the mid piece – READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 8-8-9 (9) cm = 13-15-15 (17) stitches left on the mid piece. Continue working until all the stitches from the threads/extra needle in each side have been worked together with the mid piece, then cast off the 13-15-15 (17) stitches on the mid piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Knit up from the right side approx. 66-72-76 (82) stitches along the bottom edge of the hat with circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern according to diagram A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side (first row = from the wrong side). When A.1 has been completed, cast off in knit from the right side.

PICOT EDGE:
Work a picot edge at the front of the hat. Start from the right side at the bottom in the corner and work with hook size 3 mm as follows: 1 double crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip 2 stitches on the hat, 1 double crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* along the whole of the front edge of the hat. Cut and fasten the strand.

Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of holes at the bottom of the hat.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= from the right side/wrong side: knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the stitches which were knitted together
= slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch
= no stitch, skip this square





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 29-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Ingrid Skøtt 05.06.2019 - 14:11:

I mønsterrapport B rager maskerne i 6. 8. Og 10. Række ind i rapport c som jo først skal strikkes efter til sidst efter 9 gange B. Hvad gør man her ?

DROPS Design 06.06.2019 kl. 07:34:

Hei Ingrid. Hvis du ser på starten av raden på B, så vil du se at det samme skjer her - altså den "manglende" delen fra slutten av rapporten passer sammen med den delen som er i starten av rapporten. Så det går helt fint å gjenta B 9 ganger etter hverandre. God fornøyelse

Sigrid Karlsson 15.04.2019 - 21:30:

Hei! Jeg har lurt på om jeg vil strikke denne oppskriten uten picotkant. Er det mulig? Isåfall hva kreves? HIlsen Sigid

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 14:01:

Hei Sigrid. Picot-kanten hekles på etter at arbeidet er ferdig, så om du ikke ønsker denne kan du helt fint la vær å lage den. God fornøyelse

Eva Solberg 26.01.2019 - 15:10:

Jeg holder på å strikke My Fairy dåpskjole. Mønsteret A.9 står ikke i oppskriften. Etter A.8 står det at jeg skal strikke A.10.

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 09:24:

Hej Eva, diagram A.9 bruges til "KJOLE MED VANLIG LENGDE" God fornøjelse!

Asta 04.01.2019 - 22:41:

Nå ser jeg det skal være et kast på pinnen i A1. Skal begynne på A2 og har 145 masker på pinnen. Det stemmer jo ikke med A2 som har 25 masker i bredden. Skal man bare strikke A2A og A2B først? Og så A2C eller hele skjemaet som det står?

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 07:46:

Hei Asta. Jeg regner med du strikker størrelse 12/18 mnd, siden du har 145 masker. Du skal strikke A.2A kun over de første 2 maskene på omgangen. Så gjentar du A.2B 11 ganger i bredden (altså over de neste 132 maskene), og avslutter omgangen med å strikke A.2C over de siste 11 maskene. A.2A viser altså hvordan omgangen starter og A.2C viser hvordan omgangen slutter, mens A.2B er "hoveddelen" av mønsteret. God fornøyelse

Asta 04.01.2019 - 07:28:

I diagram A1 skal man strikke to masker sammen. Da har man bare halvparten av maskene igjen. Videre står det at man skal øke 33 masker fra 121 masker som man hadde før man strikket to og to sammen. Dette skjønner jeg ikke.

Loredana Brusamolino 17.12.2018 - 08:19:

Sto eseguendo il modello lungo ma ho verifucato che mancano le indicazioni per la lavorazione dello schema A6. Probabilmente c'è un errore nella descrizione del lavoro.

DROPS Design 17.12.2018 kl. 09:10:

Buongiorno Loredana. Abbiamo aggiunto la parte mancante del testo. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

Rachel 26.09.2018 - 23:58:

Can you tell me why I am losing stiches while following the pattern A2? Do I need to increase each knitted row after I complete the pattern for one row? So first row is the pattern. Then the second row is all knit. Do I need to increase back to the original amount of stiches I had in row 1?

DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 07:59:

Hi Rachel, The rows in A.2 have the same number of yarn overs and decreases. So for example, row 1 has a total of 8 yarn overs (increases), 6 purl/knit 2 togethers and 1 psso and knit 2 together, which is a total of 8 decreases. So the number of stitches remains the same. Happy knitting!

Carol 26.09.2018 - 21:03:

Can you tell me where the A1 pattern is please

DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 08:07:

Hi Carol, The patterns A.1 and A.2 plus the measurement sketch are all at the bottom of the page. Happy knitting!

Carol 10.09.2018 - 22:05:

I am trying to knit the bonnet. I am really struggling with this, alls ok until I get to the 3rd or 4th pattern row. Do you work across all the 23 pattern stitches until the end of row, or is it the same as the others rows where you work first 12 stitches 5 times.

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 23:16:

Dear Carol, it is the same as with the other patterns. Start with the 'A' part, then repeat 'B' until you get to the last repeat, and do the 'C' for the last stitches. Happy crafting!

Antonina Rosenberg 07.09.2018 - 15:39:

Hei. Ønsker å få strikket denne dåpskjolen i hvitt (ikke naturhvitt) og ull har dere noe forslag til garn ?

DROPS Design 11.09.2018 kl. 09:42:

Hej Antoniana, Her ser du hvilke hvide som findes :) Farger

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