DROPS / 175 / 24

Bonita by DROPS Design

Crochet vest with crochet square and lace pattern in DROPS Paris. Size: S - XXXL

Tags: circle, lace, square, vests,
DROPS design: Pattern no w-631
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-300 g colour 17, off white

DROPS HOOK SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 14 trebles x 8.5 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
At beginning of every round/row with trebles replace first treble on round/row with 3 chain stitches.
At beginning of every round/row with double crochet work 1 chain stitch (does not replace first double crochet).

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 treble by working 2 trebles in same stitch.
Increase 1 double treble by working 2 double trebles in same stitch.
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VEST:
The vest is worked in 3 parts. Work back piece as a square separately. Work front pieces as a half circle and continue up to shoulder. When front pieces and back piece are sewn together, work 1 round with picots along entire outer edge.

BACK PIECE:
Begin with crochet hook size 5 mm and Paris and work pattern according to diagram A.2 4 times in total on round (A.1 shows how round begins and ends). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.2 has been worked, there are 35 trebles along each side and 4 corners that consist of 2 trebles, 3 chain stitches and 2 trebles. The square for back piece is done for size S/M, fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 28 x 28 cm. Continue in the round in size L/XL and XXL/XXXL as follows:

L/XL:
Repeat the last 2 rounds. Increase 1 treble before and after each corner. There are now 2 trebles more on each of the 4 sides = 39 trebles along each side. Fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 37 x 37 cm.

XXL/XXXL:

Repeat the last 2 rounds. Increase 1 treble before and after each corner. There are now 2 trebles more on each of the 4 sides = 43 trebles along each side. Work slip stitches until chain space with 3 chain stitches in first corner. Then work from 2nd row in diagrams A.3A to A.3C back and forth along one side as follows: Work A.3A around this chain space (shows how row begins and ends) - READ CROCHET INFO. Work A.3B until 1 treble remains before chain space in next corner, work A.3C (= 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble and work 1 treble around chain space in corner). Turn and work last row in diagrams.
Fasten off. Work the same way along the side on opposite side of square. Fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 47 x 37 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 5 mm with Paris and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Then work a half circle as follows:
ROW 1: Work 4 chain stitches, * 1 treble around chain stitch ring, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* 7 more times, finish with 1 treble around ring.
Turn and work as follows from right side: Work A.4A, A.4B, A.4C. On last row in diagrams increase evenly as follows - READ INCREASE TIP: Increase 0-6-6 trebles over A.4A (= 27-33-33 trebles) and 0-9-9 double trebles over A.4B (= 30-39-39 double trebles). Increase 0-3-3 trebles before corner in A.4C (= 6-9-9 trebles) and increase 0-3-3 trebles after corner (= 13-16-16 trebles). there are 76-97-97 stitches in total + corner (= 2 trebles, 3 chain stitches, 2 trebles) on last row. Size S/M is now done, fasten off. Work back and forth in the 2 next sizes as follows:

L/XL- XXL/XXXL:
Turn and work from wrong side. Work from row marked with arrow in diagrams as follows: Work A.5B over the first 15 trebles, A.5A, 3 chain stitches, (2 trebles, 3 chain stitches, 2 trebles) around chain space in corner, 3 chain stitches, A.5B over the next 9 trebles, A.5C over the next 39 double trebles, A.5B over the next 32 trebles, finish with A.5A in the last treble on row. Work last row in diagrams the same way. There are now 97 trebles/double trebles + 1 corner (= 2 trebles, 3 chain stitches, 2 trebles) on last row. Fasten off.

SHOULDER:
Now work back and forth over the first trebles from right side in A.4 (in size S/M) and A.5 (in size L/XL and XXL/XXXL), begin from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: Work A.3A, A.3B 5-6-7 times in total in width. Turn and work last row. Repeat the 2 last rows in diagrams 3-3-4 more times. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
S/M and L/XL: Sew shoulder on to each side at the top edge on crochet square/back piece. Sew stitches together one by one. On back piece there are now 17-21 trebles for neck between shoulder pieces. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
XXL/XXXL: Sew shoulder on to each side at the top edge on crochet square/back piece. Sew the 6 outermost treble crochets on shoulder to the side of the 2 outermost rows on back piece and sew the other stitches together one by one.
On back piece there are now 25 trebles for neck between shoulder pieces. Cut the yarn and fasten off.

PICOT EDGE:
Begin on top of one shoulder and work a picot edge as follows:
Work * 1 treble in treble/around row, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitches in first of the 3 chain stitches, 2 trebles in same treble/around row, skip approx. 2.5 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire vest, i.e. around both armholes, along edge on front pieces, back of neck along bottom edge on back piece. Finish with a slip stitch in first treble on round. Fasten off.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 lengths of 1.5 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread string through picot edge at the front on one front piece and tie a knot. Make another 3 strings the same way.
Fasten one to the other front piece.

Use the 2 other strands to keep front and back piece together in each side: Start approx. 21-23-25 cm from top of one of the front pieces and the back piece. Thread the string back and forth through holes in the picot edge, between the front and back piece in zig zags (like a shoe lace) and tie them together at the bottom - see picture.
Adjust length on string so that distance between front piece and back piece is approx. 6-6-8 cm. Repeat in the other side.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= 1 slip stitch
= 1 treble around chain stitch/chain space
= 1 treble in stitch
= 1 double treble around chain space
= 1 double treble in stitch
= 1 half treble around chain space
= Treble group with 2 trebles: Work 1 treble around next chain stitch/chain space but wait with last pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), then work next treble around same chain stitch/chain space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all stitches on hook.
= work around chain space as follows: 2 trebles, 3 chain stitch, 2 trebles (= corner)
= work 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch Black dot on circle is beginning of round
= round is explained in pattern and has already been worked
= row shows last row on previous diagram and has already been worked
= round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch
= begin on this row (= from wrong side)





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Ekaterina 27.05.2020 - 00:43:

Dear Drops! Thank you for your prompt reply, but I still have problems with the shoulder. I understand that I have to replace the first tr with 3 chains but I don't understand where exactly the row begins. Should I count from the corner= 2tr+3ch +2tr or start the shoulder over 13 trebles and work A. 3A in the tr in stich from previous row?

DROPS Design 27.05.2020 kl. 08:55:

Dear Ekaterina, in the 2nd size you have to work a total of 13 sts in A.3A and A.3B, count the last 13 sts from the end of the previous row (from the left towards the right, seen from RS) and join yarn here, You will then have enough room to work: A.3A and repeat A.3B a total of 6 times in width. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

Ekaterina 25.05.2020 - 22:24:

Dear Drops! I need to specify the start of the shoulder- should I start A. 3A = 1 tr at the corner or at the 3 ch stitches after the corner? Should I work A. 3B over the last 13 tr?

DROPS Design 26.05.2020 kl. 08:41:

Dear Ekaterina, you have to replace the first tr with 3 chains (see info crochet), so that A.3A will be worked with 3 chains at the beg of the row and as 1 treble at the end of row from WS - A.3B will end with 1 tr from RS and start with 3 ch (instead of 1 tr) from WS. Happy crocheting!

Ekaterina 25.05.2020 - 13:19:

Thanks a lot for all your help.

Ekaterina 23.05.2020 - 21:57:

Dear Drops! I need your help again, this time I don' t understand how to crochet shoulder. Should I work only A. 3A, A. 3B and what about A. 3C? My front piece ends with a corner 2tr3ch st2tr, then 3 ch and 13 tr to the end. And the 1st row in diagrams show 1ch st, 2 tr in chain space. Please, help me to solve this problem.

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 09:13:

Dear Ekaterina, you should also start A.3 with A.3A and repeat A.3B over the last sts on the left side (end of rows from RS with A.4/A.5): count 5-6-7 times 2 sts (for each A.3B), then 1 more stitch for A.3A and start now with a.3A = 1 treble, and repeat A.3B (1 chain, skip 1 st, 1 treble). So that you have the correct number of sts: 11-13-15 sts. Happy crocheting!

Ekaterina 22.05.2020 - 11:06:

If I crochet left front piece the same way as right front piece, I will need to turn it to have half circle look to the centre. But in this case last row will be done on the WS.

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 12:28:

Dear Ekaterina, work the same way as on right front piece, then when crocheting shoulder, instead of working over the first stitches on the right side as for right front piece, you will now work over the last stitches on the left side (seen from RS). Happy crocheting!

Ekaterina 21.05.2020 - 01:38:

Dear Drops! Would you be so kind to help me with the following problem. I failed to crochet left front piece. How should I begin? Could you explain the first rows, thanks in advance.

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 09:07:

Dear Ekaterina, you start the same way but crochet then shoulder over the last stitches instead of the first stitches so that left front piece will be a mirrored image of the right front piece. Happy crocheting!

AlmuSG 14.05.2020 - 18:57:

Hola, No me queda claro cómo hay que proceder para realizar los aumentos del frente derecho. Cuando se refiere "Aumentar 0-6-6 puntos altos sobre A.4A (= 27-33-33 puntos altos)". ¿Hay que hacer los aumentos en la última vuelta? ¿cuántos puntos (0-6-6)? Agradecería una explicación más concreta. Gracias.

Ekaterina 13.05.2020 - 22:47:

Dear Drops! What kind of yarn is used for the vest in the photo. It looks much thinner than Paris.

DROPS Design 14.05.2020 kl. 01:39:

Dear Ekaterina, the modell was made with Paris yarn. Happy Crafting!

Marjon De Vries 09.05.2020 - 17:56:

Ik mis telpatroon A1 en a2 van drops 175-24, deze zat niet bij het patroon en garen die ik besteld had, zou u de missende telpatroon alsnog kunnen sturen per mail, wil heel graag het mooie giletje haken. Groetjes Marjon

DROPS Design 13.05.2020 kl. 10:08:

Dag Marjon,

Je kunt de telpatronen afdrukken via de afdrukknop bij het patroon op de site. Hier vind je de afbeeling van A.1 en A.2.

Sylvie Plancher 22.04.2020 - 16:53:

Re bonjour, Excusez moi, j'ai bien compris que les côtés doivent être symétriques, mais je ne comprends toujours pas ce que veut dire "en sens inverse" pour un diagramme en demi cercle. par quoi dois-je commencer ? cordialement

DROPS Design 23.04.2020 kl. 10:19:

Bonjour Mme Plancher, vous crochetez le devant gauche comme le droit mais A.3 sera à gauche au lieu de à droite (vu sur l'endroit) pour que les deux demi-cercles soient symétriques et que les arrondis des demi-cercles soient face à face et l'épaule sur le côté "droit" du devant (= à droite sur le devant droit et à gauche sur le devant gauche). Bon crochet!

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