DROPS / 175 / 26

Randi by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with textured pattern on yoke and folded sleeve edges, worked bottom up in DROPS Melody. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no ml-019
Yarn group D
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 9 mm – or size needed to get 10 stitches and 12 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 3.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase as follows before stitch with marker: Work until 1 stitch remains before stitch with marker, make a yarn over.
Increase as follows after stitch with marker: Work 1 stitch, make a yarn over.
On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Body is first worked in the round on circular needle, then divide the piece and finish front and back piece separately back and forth. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles and sleeve cap is worked back and forth.

Cast on 108-120-124-136-152-156 stitches on circular needle size 9 mm with Melody. Purl 1 round. Insert 1 marker in first stitch, skip 53-59-61-67-75-77 stitches and insert 1 marker in next stitch. Work in stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm, cast off 7-7-9-9-11-13 stitches in each side for armholes (i.e. stitch with marker and 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches on each side of both markers). Work front and back piece back and forth separately.

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth.
= 47-53-53-59-65-65 stitches. Work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Work next row from right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, work 3 stitches in garter stitch, * 3 stitches in stocking stitch, 3 stitches in garter stitch *, repeat from *-* until 1 stitch remains on row, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the middle 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck =14-17-17-19-22-22 stitches remain for shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth.
= 47-53-53-59-65-65 stitches. Work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Then work pattern as on back piece. When piece measures 44-46-48-48-50-52 cm, cast off the middle 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off on every row from neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 14-17-17-19-22-22 stitches remain for shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 21-22-23-24-25-26 stitches on double pointed needles size 9 mm. Purl 1 round from right side. Insert 1 marker in the first stitch on round. Then work in stocking stitch. When sleeve measures 8 cm in all sizes, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4th round 9-11-8-6-1-1 times in total and every 5th-0-3rd-3rd-3rd-3rd round 2-0-4-6-12-12 times in total = 43-44-47-48-51-52 stitches. When piece measures 50-49-49-47-45-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off 7-7-9-9-11-13 stitches mid under sleeve (i.e. stitch with marker and 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches on each side of stitch with marker).
Then work a small sleeve cap back and forth in stocking stitch. Cast off stitches at beginning of every row in each side as follows:
Cast off 5 stitches 1 time and 4 stitches 1 time = 18-19-20-21-22-21 stitches. Cast off. Piece measures approx. 53-52-52-50-48-48 cm. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulders together with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-off edge. Then sew sleeves in body: Sew inside edge stitch in garter stitch on body and cast-off edge on sleeves. Fold the sleeve edges up 2 times and fasten with a small stitch in each side.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Christine 08.12.2019 - 17:14:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de tricoter la première manche. Je suis arrivée à 49 cms. J'ai rabattu 7 m. au milieu sous la manche. Je n'arrive pas à comprendre la suite des explications. Que voulez-vous dire par "Tricoter ensuite un petit arrondi en allers et retours en jersey. " ? Merci bcp pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 09:44:

Bonjour Christine, après avoir rabattu les 7 m au milieu sous la manche, continuez en allers et retours en rabattant au début de chaque rang de chaque côté: 1 x 5 m et 1 x 4 m, puis rabattez les mailles restantes. En tricotant ces rangs supplémentaires, vous créez un léger arrondi de la manche, pour la coudre le long des emmanchures dos/devant. Bon tricot!

Catherine MORA 15.11.2019 - 23:31:

Merci de bien vouloir m'indiquer la finition du col car elle ne figure pas sur le site. Merci d'avance de votre réponse. Bien cordialement,

Catherine MORA 15.11.2019 - 23:29:

Pourriez-vous m'indiquer la finition du col car elle n'est pas expliquée Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 08:45:

Bonjour Mme Mora, il n'y a aucune finition particulière pour le col, les mailles de l'encolure dos et celles du de l'encolure devant sont simplement rabattues lorsque l'on tricote le dos et le devant. Libre à vous de choisir de tricoter une petite bordure d'encolure si vous le souhaitez. Bon tricot!

Darshita Shukla 30.09.2019 - 15:43:

Can i beocome a raand Call me jaanu

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 17:03:

Dear Mrs Shukla, should you need any help, please feel free to ask your question here, remember you can also contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

Mary Lou Williams 30.03.2019 - 23:48:

Do you do anything to finish the neck edge?

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 16:12:

Dear Mrs Williams, there is no finishing edge on neck to this pattern. Happy knitting!

Mary Lou Williams 30.03.2019 - 23:44:

Do you do any finishing to the neck edge?

Mary Lou Williams 30.03.2019 - 23:41:

Do you do any finishing to the neck edge. It doesn"t look very finished!

DROPS Design 31.03.2019 kl. 17:38:

Dear Ms. Williams, no, there is no special finishing for the neck edge in this pattern. But of course you can use some of your favourite edging - knitted or crocheted. You only have to do it loose enough, so the garment stay flat. Happy knitting!

Domi 10.12.2018 - 20:06:

Bonjour, je désirerais faire ce modèle pour ma nièce de 16 ans qui taille XS, pensez-vous qu'en diminuant la taille des aiguilles du 9 au 8 ou au 7 peut me permettre d'atteindre cette taille XS ?Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement.

DROPS Design 11.12.2018 kl. 08:49:

Bonjour Domi, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Vous pouvez vous aider du schéma des mesures et ajuster en fonction de votre tension. Votre magasin saura vous assister si nécessaire - même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Cherylin 15.11.2018 - 06:00:

I am confused by the instructions to skip 53-59-61 etc stitches in the second row after casting on. Does this mean to slip them or to SKP?

DROPS Design 15.11.2018 kl. 09:10:

Dear Cherylin, after you have worked the first round purling all sts, you will now insert 2 markers (without working the sts): insert the 1st marker in the first st on the round, then count 53..77 sts (see size) and insert a marker in the next stitch (= 54th, ... 78th stitch - see size). You will not work the stitches on this round, just count them and insert the markers. Happy knitting!

Pauliina Lilja 22.03.2018 - 08:43:

Hei, onkohan tämä ohje kuitenkin alhaalta ylös eikä ylhäältä alas? Kiitos ihanasta ohjeesta! I think if this pattern is bottom up, no top down. Best regards Pauliina

DROPS Design 22.03.2018 kl. 14:16:

Hei! Kiitos viestistä, malli neulotaan tietysti alhaalta ylös. Otsikko on korjattu.

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