DROPS / 176 / 19

Misty Moor by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan, cables and A-shape, worked top down in 2 strands DROPS Delight and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no de-168
Yarn group A + A + C or E
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 05, beige/grey/pink
150-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 06, pink/purple
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK (belongs to yarn group C)
75-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 05, beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 10 MM – or the size needed to get 9 stitches and 12 rows stocking stitch with 3 strands on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 9 MM for the rib and garter stitch.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for the cables in raglan.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 1.80 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 1.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 38 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 6.3. In this example increase after approx. every 6th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

ELEVATION:
Start from the right side mid back, insert 1 marker thread before the first stitch and knit 6-6-7-7-7-8 stitches past the marker thread, turn, tighten the strand and purl 12-12-14-14-14-16 stitches from the wrong side, turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit 18-18-21-21-21-24 stitches, turn the piece, tighten the strand and purl 24-24-28-28-28-32 stitches, turn the piece, tighten the strand and knit back to mid back.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of A.1/A.2 in each transition between body and sleeves. The increases are different on the body and sleeves as explained in the text.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides on the body):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles/circular needle from mid back and is worked top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 38-38-38-40-42-42 stitches with double pointed needles size 10 mm and 1 strand Delight in each colour + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 3 strands). Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm and work 2 RIDGES – see description above. AT THE SAME TIME on the third round (= a round of knit) increase 6-8-8-8-8-10 stitches evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 44-46-46-48-50-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 10 mm.
For a better shape, you can now work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – see description above. When the elevation is finished, insert 4 marker threads in the piece AT THE SAME TIME as you work and increase as follows: Knit 6-6-6-7-7-8 (= ½ the back piece), purl 1, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches (knit in front and back loop of stitch = 3 stitches increased) and insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches, purl 1, knit 1 (= mid top of right sleeve), purl 1, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches, purl 1, knit 11-12-12-13-14-15 (= front piece), purl 1, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches, purl 1, knit 1 (= mid top of left sleeve), purl 1, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches, purl 1 and knit 5-6-6-6-7-7 (= ½ the back piece) = 56-58-58-60-62-64 stitches on the needle.
The next round is worked as follows: knit 6-6-6-7-7-8 (= ½ the back piece), increase 1 stitch for RAGLAN – see description above, work A.1 (= 8 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 1 (= sleeve), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.2 (= 8 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 11-12-12-13-14-15 (= front piece), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1 (= 8 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 1 (= sleeve), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.2 (= 8 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan and knit the remaining 5-6-6-6-7-7 stitches. Continue in this way, with stocking stitch and A.1/A.2 in each transition between body and sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME continue the increases for raglan as follows – NOTE: The increases are different on the front/back pieces and on the sleeves:

FRONT/BACK PIECE: Increase 1 stitch before A1 and after A.2 every 2nd round in total 5-5-8-9-12-15 times (including the first increase described above) and then every 4th round 3-4-3-3-2-1 times (= in total 8-9-11-12-14-16 times).

SLEEVE: Increase 1 stitch after A.1 and before A.2 every 2nd round in total 11-11-12-11-12-13 times (including the first increase described above) and then every 4th round 0-1-1-2-2-2 times (= in total 11-12-13-13-14-15 times).

After the last increase to raglan there are 132-142-154-160-174-188 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from the cast-on edge mid front (approx. 25-27-29-31-33-35 cm from the shoulder).
The next round is worked as follows: Knit 18-19-21-23-25-28 stitches (i.e. until the marker thread (= ½ the back piece), place the next 31-33-35-35-37-39 stitches on 1 thread (= right sleeve), cast on 4-4-4-6-6-6 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), knit 35-38-42-45-50-55 stitches (= front piece), place the next 31-33-35-35-37-39 stitches on 1 thread (= left sleeve), cast on 4-4-4-6-6-6 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and knit the remaining 17-19-21-22-25-27 stitches (= ½ the back piece). Body and sleeves are now worked separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 78-84-92-102-112-122 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches cast on under the sleeves in each side and let the marker threads follow the work upwards. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm increase 2 stitches in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 10 cm in total 3 times in all sizes = 90-96-104-114-124-134 stitches.
When the piece measures 33 cm from the separation (approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder) knit 1 round where you increase 14-16-16-22-20-26 stitches evenly along the round = 104-112-120-136-144-160 stitches. Change to circular needle size 9 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 5 cm increase every other purl 2 to purl 3 = 117-126-135-153-162-180 stitches. Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until the rib measures 8 cm. Cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm from the shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 31-33-35-35-37-39 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 10 mm, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches which were cast on under the sleeve and insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches = 35-37-39-41-43-45 stitches on the needle. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the separation in all sizes decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 4½-4½-3½-3½-3-2½ cm in total 8-8-9-9-10-10 times = 19-21-21-23-23-25 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-35-33-32-30-29 cm from the separation (shorter lengths in the larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 5-3-3-5-5-7 stitches evenly along the round = 24-24-24-28-28-32 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 /purl 2). When the rib measures 8 cm (the whole sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-40-38-37 cm from the separation) cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl – to prevent the cast-off edge becoming tight make a yarn over after every 4th stitch at the same time as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as ordinary stitches). Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Annie Gravgaard 29.01.2019 - 12:37:

Jeg er lidt forvirret : der er to billeder til opskriften, ser ud til at det er forskellige farver. Hvilken passer med farverne i opskriften ?

DROPS Design 29.01.2019 kl. 13:06:

Hei Annie. Det er nok bare lyssettingen som gjør at de ser ut som forkjsellige farger - den ene er tatt i dirkete sollys, mens den andre er tatt i vanlig dagslys. Men det er altså fargene som er oppgitt i oppskriften på begge bildene. God fornøyelse.

Clara 10.07.2017 - 10:34:

Bonjour je tricote du S, je crois que cela vient d'un problème au niveau des augmentations (j'ai tricoté 2 fois les mailles au lieu de faire des jetés). Par contre je pense que l'empiècement parait petit pour passer la tête.

DROPS Design 10.07.2017 kl. 10:59:

Bonjour Clara, vous avez 56 m après les augmentations juste avant A.1/A.2 et augmentez ainsi: Dos & devant: 5x 1 m + 3x1m au début et à la fin du dos/du devant = + 32 m Manches: 11x1 m au début et à la fin de chaque manche = + 44 m. Vous aviez 56 m + 32 + 44 = 132 m. Votre réflexion va être transmise à nos stylistes, merci d'avance pour votre patience en raison des vacances. Bon tricot!

Clara 08.07.2017 - 18:31:

Bonjour, je pense que les explications sont inexactes car à partir des augmentations du raglan il y a un problème de nombre de mailles nécessaires pour effectuer les explications. Pouvez-vous m'aider ou vérifier que les explications sont justes ? Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 10.07.2017 kl. 09:37:

Bonjour Clara, pouvez-vous indiquer quelle taille vous tricotez pour que les vérifications puissent être faites? Merci.

Svetlana 08.07.2017 - 06:24:

Hi, Probably, I don't understand the instructions. On the diagram, the width of the 1/2 of the yolk is 16 cm for the medium size (32 for the whole?). No way, that it would fit my head. I began to knit and it looks like it's too small for my head (and I believe for any adult head). Please, advise. Thank you, Svetlana

DROPS Design 08.07.2017 kl. 11:43:

Hi Svetlana, I think you could be right that the measurements on the diagram are misleading. I think, though, that 38 stitches with size 10 mm needles will be large enogh, looking at the knitting tension. You can try taking the stitches off the needle when you have completed the ridges and see how big the neck is. Send another comment if this is not the case. Kind regards, Deirdre

Regina 15.06.2017 - 15:52:

Hallo, Stimmt es wirklich, dass ich für Größe M von Drops Delight jeweils 200g brauche, aber von Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk nur 100g ? Die Lauflänge von letzterem ist doch geringer? Danke

DROPS Design 15.06.2017 kl. 18:08:

Liebe Regina, 4 x Brushed Alpaca Silk = 560 m, aber 3 x Delight wären nur 525 m, dann braucht man 4 x Delight. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Pia Hansen 24.03.2017 - 09:55:

Jeg er netop færdig med denne model i XL, som jeg har lavet noget længere end mønstret, alligevel har jeg lidt over 200g garn tilovers. ca. 75 g brushed alpaca & 150 Deligth... Er der fejl i mængde-angivelsen?

DROPS Design 17.10.2017 kl. 08:44:

Hei Pia. Takk for din tilbakemeldig. Vi har ikke fått noen andre henvendelser på for mye garn på dene modellen, men vi vil undersøke nærmere og evnt komme med en garmmengde endring om det trengs.mvh Drops design

Susan W 22.03.2017 - 00:45:

Hello, Instead of 2 strands of Delight could not 1 strand of Big Delight be used? I know the colour effect will not be the same but I have at least 400g of it that has been my stash for years, waiting for the perfect project. Also, would the grams and meterage be the same, or will I need more? Thank you.

DROPS Design 22.03.2017 kl. 09:25:

Dear Susan W, you can replace 2 strands yarn group A (= Delight) with 1 strand yarn group C (= Big Delight), read more and calculate new amount here. Happy knitting!

Mary 31.01.2017 - 16:00:

Bonjour, juste pour vous remercier de mettre tous ces modèles / aides / conseils / techniques et astuces, gratuitement à notre disposition. Je viens de trouver ce que je cherchais et grâce à vous je n'ai plus qu'à tricoter sans trop me prendre la tête à calculer!! :)

Angela Biagi 12.01.2017 - 11:20:

Magnifici colori. Evergreen. Ho una passione particolare per i colori mèlange. Quando potro' avere il modello ? Buon lavoro.

Sarthou -Moutengou 28.12.2016 - 13:53:

.J'adore ce modèle, sa forme,sa couleur et j'attends avec impatience ses explications.

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