DROPS / 176 / 16

A Wistful Dream by DROPS Design

Poncho with lace pattern and crochet squares, worked top down in DROPS Belle. Sizes S - XXXL.

Tags: lace, ponchos, square,

DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-036
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-450-550 g colour 03, light beige
150-200-250 g colour 11, old pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 18 treble crochets and 9 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

CROCHET INFO-1:
The first treble crochet from the beginning of the round is replaced by 3 chain stitches and the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the start of the round.

CROCHET INFO-2 (diagram):
Each round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the start of the round.

COLOURS:
The whole poncho is worked with light beige apart from the 3 rounds marked with a black square in the diagrams, these rounds are worked with old pink.
The square is worked with light beige apart from the 4th round (= the round with together-worked treble crochets), this round is worked with old pink.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets in/around the same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Increase 1 treble crochet + 1 chain stitch by working 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet and 1 chain stitch around the same chain stitch.
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PONCHO:
The poncho is worked in the round and top down in 3 sections which are worked together as you go. Start with the first section, then work the squares separately as section 2. Increase mid front and mid back as shown in the diagram and otherwise increase evenly along the sides.

FIRST SECTION:
The round starts on the left shoulder.
Work 146-178-206 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and light beige and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches – READ CROCHET INFO-1, then work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5-3-5 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 5-7-8 more times (= 30-36-42 treble crochets), 1 chain stitch (= chain space in front), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4-4-4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 13-16-19 more times (= 60-72-84 treble crochets along the side), 1 chain stitch (= chain space in the middle in the back), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6-4-6 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 5-7-8 more times (= 30-36-42 treble crochets along half the side) = in total 120-144-168 treble crochets and 2 chain stitches on the round.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

Then work according to the diagram – READ COLOURS and CROCHET INFO-2. Increase every treble crochet round marked with an arrow – READ INCREASE TIP-1!

A.1 is worked as follows:
Work rounds 1-3 as follows: Work A.1A in total 5-6-7 times, A.1B over the chain space, A.1A in total 10-12-14 times, A.1B over the chain space in the middle, finish with A.1A in total 5-6-7 times.
Then work the last round and increase 23-23-23 treble crochets evenly in each of the sides between the chain space in the middle mid front and the chain space in the middle mid back.
When A.1 is finished in height there are 100-112-124 treble crochets between the chain-space mid front and mid back (= in total 200-224-248 treble crochets and 2 chain-spaces on the round).

A.2 is worked as follows:
Work rounds 1-3 as follows: Work A.2A in total 8-9-10 times, A.2B, A.2A in total 16-18-20 times, A.2B, finish with A.2A in total 8-9-10 times.
Then work the last round and increase 9-9-9 treble crochets evenly in each of the sides between the chain space in the middle in front and the chain space in the middle mid back.
When A.2 is finished in height there are 132-144-156 treble crochets between the chain-space mid front and mid back (= in total 264-288-312 treble crochets and 2 chain-spaces on the round).

A.3A and A.3B are worked as follows:
Work A.3A in total 11-12-13 times, A.3B over chain space in the middle, A.3A in total 22-24-26 times, A.3B over chain space in the middle, finish with A.3A in total 11-12-13 times.
When A.3B is finished in height there are 73-79-85 treble crochets with 1 chain stitch, between the chain-space mid front and mid back (= in total 146-158-170 treble crochets with 1 chain stitch and 2 chain-spaces on the round).

A.3A and A.3C are worked as follows:
When A.3A is worked, repeat only the last 2 rounds upwards. Work A.3A in total 12-13-14 times, A.3C, A.3A in total 24-26-28 times, A.3C, finish with A.3A in total 12-13-14 times. Continue up to and including rounds 4-6-8 in A.3C. There are now 77-85-93 treble crochets with 1 chain stitch, between the chain-space mid front and mid back (= in total 154-170-186 treble crochets with 1 chain stitch and 2 chain-spaces on the round). Cut the strand, start next round as shown in A.4A, i.e. not in the middle chain space, but before this one.

A.4 is worked as follows:
On the 1st round you will increase 1-2-0 treble crochet/s (with 1 chain stitch) evenly on each of the sides between the middle chain space mid front and the middle chain space mid back - READ INCREASE TIP-2 and work as follows: Work * A4.A, A.4B in total 25-28-30 times *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Then work rounds 2-4.
Then work round 5 and decrease 2-0-0/increase 0-0-8 treble crochets evenly in each of the sides between the chain space in the mid front and the chain space in the mid back.
When A.4 is finished in height there are 160-180-200 treble crochets between the chain-space mid front and mid back (= in total 320-360-400 treble crochets and 2 chain-spaces on the round). Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side and work the second section.

SECOND SECTION:
Work in total 18-20-22 similar squares. One square measures 11 cm in width x 11 cm in height. NOTE! It is important that you keep to these measurements so that the squares fit the measurements on the last round of the first section.

SQUARE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and light beige and form them to a ring with one slip stitch in the first chain stitch - Remember COLOURS. Continue in the round according to A.5 until the square is finished. Cut and fasten the strand. Work 17-19-21 more squares in the same way.

ASSEMBLY OF SQUARES:
Lay 10-11-12 squares together in a line (the square at each end = mid front and mid back of the poncho).
Lay 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, wrong side to wrong side and work them together through both layers as follows: 1 double crochet in the middle chain stitch in the corner, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the same chain-space, 1 chain stitch, * 1 double crochet around the next chain-space, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the same chain-space, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* in total 3 times, work 1 double crochet around the next space (= the corner), 2 chain stitches, finish with 1 double crochet in the middle chain stitch in the corner.
Lay the other 8-9-10 squares together in a line and work together in the same way.
Lay the 2 lines together to make a tip in each side (i.e. mid front and mid back – see the sketch) and work together in the same way as before.

ASSEMBLY OF FIRST AND SECOND SECTIONS:
Lay the first section = 160-180-200 treble crochets, together wityh second section (i.e. the side with the shortest circumference of squares). Work them together through both layers (adjust so that there is 20 treble crochets over each side of each square of 5 chain-spaces) as follows: Work * 1 double crochet in the next treble crochet and around the chain-space on the square, skip 3 treble crochets *, repeat from *-* the complete round, around the 2 chain spaces in the middle work in addition 3 chain stitches over the middle chain spaces (= mid front and mid back). Cut and fasten the strand.

THIRD SECTION:
Continue working in the round on the second section, i.e. the side with the longest circumference of squares, there are 10-11-12 square sides on each side of mid front and mid back (= in total 20-22-24 sides).
Start in one corner. Remember CROCHET INFO-2. Work 4 treble crochets around each of the 5 chain-spaces on each square until the next corner, work 3 chain stitches (= chain space in the middle), work 4 treble crochets around each of the 5 chain-spaces on each square until the next corner, finish with 3 chain stitches (= chain space in the middle). There are now 200-220-240 treble crochets between the chain-space mid front and mid back (= in total 400-440-480 treble crochets and 2 chain-spaces on the round).

A.6 is worked as follows:
Work * A.6A in total 33-37-40 times, A.3B over the chain space in the middle *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. When A.6 is finished in height there are 215-239-257 treble crochets between the chain-space mid front and mid back (= in total 430-478-514 treble crochets and 2 chain-spaces on the round). Cut and fasten the strand.

TIE STRING:
Cut 2 strands light beige and 2 strands old pink of 4 meters in length. Twist them together until they resist, fold the string double and it will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end, approx. 5 cm from the end. Thread the string up and down, starting mid front, through the holes in round 3 from the neck.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.02.2017
There has been made a small edit in pattern text about diagram A.2B.
Updated online: 13.07.2017
FIRST SECTION:
The round starts on the left shoulder.
Work 146-178-206 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and light beige and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches – READ CROCHET INFO-1,

Diagram

= chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= work 1 treble crochet in/around each of the next 2 stitches, but wait the last yarn over and pull through on both of these treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in/around the next stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook
= work 2 treble crochets around the chain-space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet around the same chain-space and pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook
= work 1 treble crochet around the chain-space/in the stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 treble crochet around the same chain-space/in the stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook
= double treble crochet around the chain stitch
= triple treble crochet in stitch
= triple treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= 4 chain stitches, form them in to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch – see point on circle, the round starts and finishes here
= slip stitch
= increase round/decrease round
= the round is described in the text and is already worked - start on the next round
= shows the last round of the previous diagram - start on the next round
= round worked with old pink





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

Svenja 24.02.2019 - 19:12:

Hallo, wenn ich für Größe S, wie in der Anleitung angegeben, in A.4A die erste Runde häkle und die eine Masche zunehme komme ich wieder auf 77 Maschen. Für die zweite Runde bräuchte ich aber doch 78 Maschen, oder zumindest etwas was durch drei teilbar ist, oder nicht? Für Hilfe wäre ich sehr dankbar.

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 11:04:

Liebe Svenja, bei der 1. Runde häkeln Sie 2 Stb in A.4A und 3 Stb x 25 in A.4B = 75 Stb + 1 Zunahme = 76 Stb + die 2 Stb in A.4A = 78 Stb. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Sue 13.11.2018 - 20:07:

Has this pattern been corrected and is now good to go!

Regina 09.11.2018 - 19:15:

Hallo, Wie viel Wollknäule brauche ich von beige und wie viele von rosa bei Größe S und der hier verwendeten drops belle uni colour? Vielen Dank LG Regina

DROPS Design 12.11.2018 kl. 08:12:

Liebe Regina, die Garnmenge in jede Farbe finden Sie für jede Größe unter die Kopfzeile, z.B. 350 g DROPS Belle /50 g 1 Knäuel = 7 Knäuel hellbeige in der 1. Größe. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Angela Echeverri Zaparta 23.09.2018 - 22:08:

Buenas tardes ...son hermosos los modelos de busos ...donde los puedo conseguir en medellin colombia. Muchas gracias.

Au3 25.07.2018 - 17:57:

In de Nederlandse vertaling staat een fout bij het stukje 'afwerking van eerste en tweede deel'. Tussen de vasten in het stokje en de lossenlus moeten iedere keer nog twee lossen gehaakt worden.

Rosie 11.07.2018 - 19:42:

I really need your help to figure out what size I need to make as I am lost. I have checked your diagram drawing and even looked at the help section for how to work out sizing. However this poncho doesn't include measurements for the chest or width and I am worried without this I'll choose the wrong size. I am a small framed woman but I carry weight to my bust and tummy so I am aware I might need a larger size but as there is no measurements for width or circumference I am lost. Please Help?

DROPS Design 12.07.2018 kl. 08:59:

Dear Rosie, you can check the bust measurement from any other pattern in same catalogue checking the measurements from a garment you already have and like the shape so that you should find out the matching size. Happy knitting!

Mary Gill 09.01.2018 - 02:08:

What weight yarn should I use....1 or 2 or 3. I would like it to be a spring like poncho.

DROPS Design 09.01.2018 kl. 07:40:

Dear Mary, the piece is made of DROPS Belle yarn, that falls into the DROPS yarn group "B", approximately 120 meters in a 50 gramm skein, which is about the same size as other DK yarns. Happy Knitting!

Vladka 05.07.2017 - 14:44:

Because I was curies, I tried L/XL size and with this size is everything OK. Can you check chain stitches and SUM of double crochet stitches together with spaces again, please. Because 172 chain stitches is not the same as SUM of double crochet stitches together with spaces (146 stitches) -> 26 chain stitches left.

DROPS Design 13.07.2017 kl. 09:19:

Dear Mrs Vladka, a correction has been made, you will cast on 146 chains in 1st size. Thanks for your feedback. Happy crocheting!

Vladka 05.07.2017 - 14:43:

Thank you for your answer, but I did exact as you written and it doesn´t work. If you count all double crochet and spaces you get SUM 146. But this doesn´t get along with 172 ch stitches (Work 172-177-206 chain stitches). And what I also noticed is that difference between S/M and L/XL is just 5 chains stitches and between L/XL and XXL/XXXL is 29 chain stitches. I still think 172 chain stitches for S/M size is not correct. Should it be 146 chain stitches?

Vladka 02.07.2017 - 16:17:

Hi. In all your answers I still didn't get the correct one. What is about first section? I made 172 chain stitches and at the end I have 120 dc and 2 chain stitches + all the chain stitches in between. But still there are 26 CHAIN STITCHES LEFT. Why? What should I do with them? Many ask that already, but still there is no proper answer to this. According to this pattern I don't know how to continue after first section is finished and this is really frustrated,

DROPS Design 03.07.2017 kl. 10:02:

Dear Vladka, remember to skip chains as told and work: 3 ch (=1st dc), 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch*, repeat from *-* 5 more times (= 1 dc + 5 dc + 24 dc= 30 dc), 1 ch (= ch-space in front), 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch (= 4 dc), *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch*, repeat from *-* 13 more times (= 4 dc+ 56 dc = 60-72-84 dc along the side), 1 ch (= ch-space in the middle in the back), 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch (= 6 dc), *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch*, repeat from *-* 5 more times (= 6 dc + 24 dc = 30 dc along half the side) = 120 dc + 1 ch on mid front + 1 ch on mid back. Happy crocheting!

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