DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Enigma

Jumper with raglan and rib on the yoke, worked top down in DROPS Air. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 176-24
DROPS Design: Pattern no. ai-051
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-300-350-350-400 g colour 02, wheat

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – for the borders.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 6.3. In this example, increase after approx. every 6th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of 4 knitted stitches along every raglan line (i.e. in every transition between the body and the sleeves). NOTE: The increases are different in each side on the front and back pieces and in each side for the sleeves as described in the text.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes – NOTE: The increased stitches are worked in to the rib as you go (i.e. the first 3 stitches are knitted, the next 4 stitches are purled, the next 3 stitches are knitted, the next 4 stitches are purled and so on).

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back and is worked top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with a short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 76-76-76-76-86-86 stitches with a short circular needle size 5 mm and Air. Knit 3 rounds. Then knit 1 round where you increase 12-12-12-12-16-16 stitches evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP = 88-88-88-88-102-102 stitches. Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Marker thread 1 inserted after the first 15-15-15-15-18-18 stitches (= ½ the back piece), marker thread 2 is inserted after the next 15 stitches (= right sleeve), marker thread 3 is inserted after the next 29-29-29-29-36-36 stitches (= front piece) and marker thread 4 is inserted after the next 15 stitches (= left sleeve). There are now 14-14-14-14-18-18 stitches left on the back piece after the last marker thread. The next round is worked as follows:
SIZES S + M + L + XL: Knit 2, purl 4, knit 3, purl 4 (= ½ the back piece), knit 4 (= raglan line – the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), purl 4, knit 3, purl 4 (= right sleeve), knit 4 (= raglan line), * purl 4, knit 3 *, repeat from *-* in total 3 times, purl 4 (= front piece), knit 4 (= raglan line), purl 4, knit 3, purl 4 (= left sleeve), knit 4 (= raglan line),purl 4, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1 (= ½ the back piece).
SIZES XXL + XXXL: purl 2, * knit 3, purl 4 *, repeat from *-* in total 2 times (= ½ the back piece),knit 4 (= raglan line – the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), purl 4, knit 3, purl 4 (= right sleeve), knit 4 (= raglan line), * purl 4, knit 3 *, repeat from *-* in total 4 times, purl 4 (= front piece), knit 4 (= raglan line), purl 4, knit 3, purl 4 (= left sleeve), knit 4 (= raglan line), purl 4, knit 3, purl 4, knit 3, purl 2 (= ½ the back piece).

Continue the rib in this way. AT THE SAME TIME on the next round start the increases to RAGLAN – see description above and the increases are as follows:
FRONT/BACK PIECE: Increase 1 stitch in each side every round in total 2-4-8-10-13-14 times, then increase 1 stitch in each side every 2nd round in total 19-20-20-21-22-24 times.
SLEEVES: Increase 1 stitch in each side every 2nd round in total 14-20-24-22-27-25 times, then every 4th round in total 3-1-0-2-1-3 times.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

After all the increase to raglan there are 240-268-296-308-354-366 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast-on edge mid front (i.e. approx. 23-25-27-29-31-33 cm from the shoulder).
The next round is worked as follows: Work 36-39-43-46-53-56 stitches stocking stitch (= ½ the back piece), place the next 49-57-63-63-71-71 stitches on 1 thread (= right sleeve), cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), work 71-77-85-91-106-112 stitches stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 49-57-63-63-71-71 stitches on 1 thread (= left sleeve), cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 35-38-42-45-53-56 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ the back piece). The body and sleeves are now worked separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 158-170-186-198-228-240 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches which were cast on under the sleeves in each side. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 27 cm from the separation, knit 1 round where you increase 2-2-2-2-0-0 stitches evenly along the round = 160-172-188-200-228-240 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work 2 rounds of rib (= knit 2/purl 2). Work 2 rounds stocking stitch. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off loosely. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder and down.



SLEEVE:
Place the 49-57-63-63-71-71 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on a short circular needle size 5 mm. In addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches which were cast on under the sleeve = 57-65-71-71-79-79 stitches on the needle. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the separation in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 3½-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm in total 5-9-10-10-12-12 times = 47-47-51-51-55-55 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 20-19-18-17-14-13 cm from the separation. Knit 1 round where you increase 1 stitch on the round = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work 2 rounds of rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch. Change back to double pointed needles size 5 mm and loosely cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 22-21-20-19-16-15 cm from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = work direction
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Mitzi Russell wrote:

I’m knitting size small . I am confused at the raglan increases . How do I keep the rib pattern of k 3, p4 when you’re increasing stitches. I have the correct number of stitches. I would appreciate your help.

25.11.2022 - 22:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mitzi, when increasing for the raglan, continue working the pattern over the increased stitches . For example, for the sleeve you have purl 4, knit 3, purl 4. After the first increase on each side: knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1. After the second increase: knit 2, purl 4, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2. After the third increase: knit 3, purl 4, knit 3, purl 4, knit 3. After the fourth increase: purl 1, knit 3, purl 4, knit 3, purl 4, knit 3, purl 1. So each increase you work will help maintain the rib pattern. Happy knitting!

27.11.2022 - 16:28

country flag Laranjeira wrote:

La taille m

29.12.2021 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, vous allez augmenter à un rythme différent sur le dos/devant et sur les manches autrement dit, vous allez augmenter soit 8 m par tour (= dos, devant et manches soit 2 mailles par pièce) soit 4 mailles seulement (= devant/dos uniquement quand on augmente tous les tours et/ou manches seulement quand on augmente tous les 4 tours). Dans le pull en rond, tous les tours sont sur l’endroit. Si vous augmentez pour le raglan tous les tours, avant le marqueur vous tricotez le jete du tour precedent torse a l’end ou a l’env (voir RAGLAN) et ensuite vous faites un jete 2 mailles avant le marqueur. Regardez aussi d’autres questions/reponses en francais dans ce modele. Bon tricot!

30.12.2021 - 09:49

country flag Laranjeira wrote:

Merci une dernière question. Sur le 1er rang j'augmente 8 fois. Si j'augmente encore 4fois sur le tour suivant je fais des jetés sur un tour envers ça fait des trous... Dois je laisser un tour sans augmenter ? C'est a dire un tour 8 jetés, 1 tour sans jeté, 1 tour 4 jetés, 1 tour vide etc...

29.12.2021 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonsoir, quelle est la taille que vous faites?

29.12.2021 - 21:14

country flag Laranjeira wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse. Avant et après les marqueurs on reste toujours a 2 mailles endroits c'est bien ça ?

29.12.2021 - 14:41

DROPS Design answered:

Exactement. Bon tricot!

29.12.2021 - 15:17

country flag Laranjeira wrote:

Bonjour du coup il es possible de se retrouver avec 2 jetés a la suite, 1 avant le marqueur et 1 après ? Comment fait on 2 jetés a la suite ?

29.12.2021 - 01:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Madame, il n'y a pas 2 jetes a la suite. Vous augmentez pour le raglan de chaque côté des 4 mailles endroit tous le long de 4 raglans. Un jete est fait a 2 mailles avant le marqueur et 2 mailles apres le marqueur. Le marqueur est place au milieu de 4 mailles endroit du raglan. Bon tricot!

29.12.2021 - 10:25

country flag Marina Arden wrote:

Can you give me calculations for safran yarn, size small and medium, Thank so much I want to compliment your business midel, it's genius. Every time I see new pattern, I want to make it and of course I use drops yarn, it makes all projects easy. Please keep posting new patterns. Thanks again, Marina Arden

28.06.2021 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marina, please be aware that our Safran yarn is a totally different structure than Air, thus if you substitute, the result will also be different. To calculate yarn amounts for substitutes please use our yarn converter HERE. Happy Stitching!

28.06.2021 - 23:48

country flag Emmanuelle wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse. Autre petite question : on distingue les augmentations devant/dos et celles des manches, mais marqueur 1 = transition dos / manche droite - marqueur 2 = transition manche droite / devant - marqueur 3 = transition devant / manche gauche - marqueur 4 = transitions manche gauche / dos. Faut-il comprendre que les augmentations devant/dos sont faites au niveau des marqueurs 1 et 3 et celles des manches au niveau des marqueurs 2 et 4 ? Merci

11.11.2020 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Emmanuelle, les augmentations du dos vont se faire avant le marqueur 1 (au début du tour) + après le marqueur 4 (à la fin du tour), celles du devant après le marqueur-2 et avant le marqueur-3 et celles des manches: après le marqueur-1 + avant le marqueur-2 et après le marqueur-3 + avant le marqueur-4. Bon tricot!

11.11.2020 - 13:48

country flag Emmanuelle wrote:

Je vous remercie pour ce splendide patron…Je ne comprends pas bien cela : « NOTE: les augmentations se tricotent en côtes au fur et à mesure (c'est-à-dire tricoter les premières 3 mailles augmentées à l'endroit, les 4 suivantes à l’envers, les 3 suivantes à l'endroit, les 4 suivantes à l’envers et ainsi de suite). »Tricoter les 3 premières mailles augmentées à l’endroit cela signifie-t-il que les 3 rangs suivant ces 3 mailles sont tricotées à l’endroit ?Merci

10.11.2020 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Emmanuelle, les mailles augmentées pour le raglan doivent être tricotées en côtes 3 m endroit/4 mailles envers. Ainsi, comme les côtes commencent/se terminent par 4 mailles envers, la 1ère augmentation avant/après ces 4 mailles envers (au début/à la fin de chaque pièce) va se tricoter à l'endroit ainsi que les 2 augmentations suivantes, pour que vous ayez toujours bien la continuité des côtes. Les 4 prochaines augmentations se tricoteront à l'envers, le 3 suivantes à l'endroit etc.. J'espère que c'est plus clair ainsi, bon tricot!

11.11.2020 - 08:44

country flag Emmanuelle wrote:

Je vous remercie pour ce splendide patron…Je ne comprends pas bien cela : « NOTE: les augmentations se tricotent en côtes au fur et à mesure (c'est-à-dire tricoter les premières 3 mailles augmentées à l'endroit, les 4 suivantes à l’envers, les 3 suivantes à l'endroit, les 4 suivantes à l’envers et ainsi de suite). »Tricoter les 3 premières mailles augmentées à l’endroit cela signifie-t-il que les 3 rangs suivant ces 3 mailles sont tricotées à l’endroit ?Merci

10.11.2020 - 21:02

country flag Herbassier wrote:

Je ne comprends pas les augmentations raglan, premier tour augmentation seulement devant /dos, puis 2ème tour augmentation devant/dos et manches ? Puis pas d\'augmentation, tour suivant devant /dos et manche ? Ou on recommence un tour devant /dos un autre manches ? Merci pour vos explications

13.06.2020 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Herbassier, vous allez augmenter à un rythme différent sur le dos/devant et sur les manches autrement dit, vous allez augmenter soit 8 m par tour (= dos, devant et manches soit 2 mailles par pièce) soit 4 mailles seulement (= devant/dos uniquement quand on augmente tous les tours et/ou manches seulement quand on augmente tous les 4 tours). Bon tricot!

15.06.2020 - 08:30