DROPS / 175 / 32

Petronella Top by DROPS Design

Knitted top with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Muskat. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no r-707
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 20, light mint

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase every 2nd round as follows:
Increase as follows before the marker thread:
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 1, marker thread.
Increase as follows, after the marker thread: Marker thread, knit 1, make 1 yarn over.
On the next round work the yarn overs knit, there will be holes.

Increase every 4th round as follows:
Increase as follows before the marker thread:
ROUND 1: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit1, marker thread.
ROUND 2: The yarn overs are worked knit, there will be holes.
ROUND 3: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread: Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, knit1, marker thread. No increases, but the row of holes continues as before.
ROUND 4: The yarn overs are worked knit, there will be holes.

Increase as follows, after the marker thread:
ROUND 1: Marker thread, knit 1, make 1 yarn over.
ROUND 2: The yarn overs are worked knit, there will be holes.
ROUND 3: Marker thread, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. No increases, but the row of holes is continued as before.
ROUND 4: Work the yarn overs knit, there will be holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread: Knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch = 2 stitches decreased.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) and make 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted knit to prevent holes (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch).
---------------------------------------------------------

TOP: 
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 80-84-88-92-96-100 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Muskat. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, on the last round of the ridges increase 20 stitches evenly along the round = 100-104-108-112-116-120 stitches. Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: first marker thread after 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches (= half the back piece), second marker thread after 12 new stitches (= sleeve), third marker thread after 38-40-42-44-46-48 new stitches (= front piece), fourth marker thread after 12 new stitches (= sleeve), there are 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches left on the needle after the last marker thread (= half the back piece). Begin with the increases to RAGLAN as described above and work stocking stitch across the stitches on the back piece and front piece and A.1 across all the sleeve stitches. READ THIS WHOLE SECTION BEFORE WORKING! The increases are different on the front piece/back piece and the sleeves as follows:

FRONT PIECE/BACK PIECE:
Increase every 2nd round 12-15-17-25-30-35 times, then every 4th round 7-7-7-4-3-2 times.

SLEEVES:
Increase every 2nd round 18-23-27-29-26-25 times, then every 4th round 4-3-2-2-5-7 times.

When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height, repeat A.2 in height. The increased stitches on the sleeves are worked in to the pattern as you go. After the next to last increase on the sleeve (there are 4 rounds left), continue by working garter stitch across the stitches on each sleeve, the stitches on the front piece/back piece are continued in stocking stitch as before. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! After all the increases to raglan there are 264-296-320-352-372-396 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: Work 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches (= half the back piece), cast off the next 56-64-70-74-74-76 stitches, work the next 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches (= front piece), cast off the next 56-64-70-74-74-76 stitches, work the next 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches (= half the back piece).

BODY:
Continue working as follows: work half the back piece, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work the front piece, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work half the back piece. There are now 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches on the body. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches which were cast on. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Continue with stocking stitch, but across the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches in each side work 2 ridges, then work stocking stitch across all stitches. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased), decrease every 3 cm in total 4 times – READ DECREASE TIP = 152-168-184-208-232-256 stitches. When the piece measures 19-19-19-18-18-19 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches increased), increase every 2 cm in total 6 times– READ INCREASE TIP = 176-192-208-232-256-280 stitches. When the piece measures 32-32-32-33-33-32 cm work A.3 across all stitches. Then cast off in knit, the piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (73)

Annemarie 19.07.2020 - 22:43:

Er staan 3 verschillende stukjes over meerderen? Wat moet ik wanneer doen?

DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 08:25:

Dag Annemarie,

Eerst gaat het over het meerderen bij de raglan en ho je dit op elke 2e naald doet (dus zonder gaatjes te maken) en hoe je dit voor en na de markeerdraad doet. Dan staat er ook omschreven hoe je voor de raglan meerdert op elke 4e naald (waarbij je gaatjes maakt) en hoe je dit voor en na de markeerdraad doet. Tot slot staat een algemene tip voor het meerderen (na de tip voor het minderen) en deze is voor de mouwen.

Bente Arlo Schønemann 14.06.2020 - 15:50:

Ser nå at mitt problem er; 2 og 4 omgang hvor det bare står at kastene strikkes rett, det skal bli hull.. Såpass forstår jeg, men skal det felles/økes på disse omgangene også? Det vanlige er at det strikkes "glattstrikk" på "vrangen" og mønster på alle oddetall. Men da får jeg ikke omgang 3 til å gå opp med felling/ økning til raglan , omgang nr.2. Aldri hatt sånne problemer før, nettopp strikket og heklet 2 modeller fra dere.

DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 08:07:

Hej Bente, I og med du strikker rundt, strikkes hver pind i diagrammet fra retsiden. Hulmønsteret i diagrammet strikkes 2 ret sammen, 1 kast det vil sige at du har samme antal masker efter mønsterpinden ifølge diagrammet. Raglan udtagningerne sker udover udtagningerne i diagrammet, så dem strikker du først på hver 2.omgang og senere på hver 4.omgang. God fornøjelse!

Catriona Graham 12.06.2020 - 14:03:

Thank you for your reply. I love Drops patterns, getting brilliant results but think some things do get lost in translation! Where A3 fits in is not explained anywhere in the pattern though perhaps it is a convention well understood in Norway so can I confirm the sleeve pattern? The yoke has a total of 52 rows, and I have tried to work out how that translates into the A1/A2/A3 pattern. Is A2 the repeat one? A1, A2x5,A3?

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 15:12:

Dear Mrs Graham, A.3(= 6 rows) is worked at the very end of body see: When the piece measures 32-32-32-33-33-32 cm work A.3 across all stitches. Then cast off ... - diagrams A.1 and A.2 are worked on yoke: you first work A.1 (= 6 rows), then repeat A.2 (=8 rows) while increasing for raglan as explained in the writte pattern (see RAGLAN)- read more here about diagrams. Happy knitting!

Catriona 12.06.2020 - 10:36:

I am not clear about the sleeves. The diagram shows A1, A2 and A3 but there is no mention of A3 though it implies there are 6 rounds. Is the sequence A1, A2, A3, A1, A2, A3?

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 12:24:

Dear Catriona, A.3 is worked at the very end of the body, just before casting off the stitches. Happy knitting!

Bente Arlo Schønemann 11.06.2020 - 20:35:

Jeg sliter også med å forstå økningene på erm/bol. Raglan er jo 4 ganger(8) mellom bol og ermer. Armene er jo mellom forstykket og bakstykket. Kommer dette i tillegg til raglanfellingen?

DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 10:26:

Hei Bente. Denne toppen strikkes ovenfra og ned, (raglansøkninger, ikke fellinger). Det økes forskjellig på for-bakstykket og på ermene. For-bakstykket økes det på hver 2.omgang 12-15-17-25-30-35 ganger, deretter på hver 4.omgang 7-7-7-4-3-2 ganger. På ermene økes det (samtidig som for-bakstykket) på hver 2.omgang 18-23-27-29-26-25 ganger, deretter på hver 4.omgang 4-3-2-2-5-7 ganger. I str S vil man øke til både for-bakstykke og ermene på hver 2. omgang 12 ganger, deretter på for-bakstykke øke på hver 4. omgang 7 ganger, samtidig som det ved ermene fortsettes å økes på 2. omgang 6 ganger og deretter på hver 4. omgang 4 ganger. God Fornøyelse!

Fabienne 16.05.2020 - 15:40:

Rebonjour, j'ai bien avancé mais j'ai besoin d'une confirmation. Est-ce juste qu'après avoir augmenté 15x tous les 2 tours sur le dos/devant, on ne le fait plus et donc on a plus les trous du raglan sur le dos/devant alors que l'on continue sur les manches encore 8x ? (Ça ne se voit pas sur l'image!) Taille M

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 08:01:

Bonjour Fabienne, vous devez avoir des trous tous les 2 tours comme avant - quand vous commencez à diminuer tous les 4 tours, tricotez comme indiqué sous Augmenter tous les 4 tours ainsi: ... avant le fil marqueur... après le fil marqueur. En tricotant les 4 tours décrits, vous augmentez au 1er tour, et au 3ème tour, vous tricotez le motif ajouré (= 1 jeté et 1 diminution pour compenser le jeté). Bon tricot!

Fabienne 12.05.2020 - 13:58:

Bonjour, je vois que pas mal de questions sont au sujet du raglan et des manches. J'ai déjà lu les réponses mais j'ai encore besoin d'une précision. Quand on commence le raglan doit-on faire successivement les augmentations des 2 tours puis ceux des 4 tours ou tous les 4 tours on additionne les augmentations. Dit autrement, est-ce que le Tour 1 correspond à l'augmentation faite tous les deux tours ? J'espère me faire comprendre ;-)

DROPS Design 12.05.2020 kl. 14:28:

Bonjour Fabienne, les augmentations du dos/du devant et des manches se font en même temps mais à un rythme différent, autrement dit vous allez d'abord augmenter 8 mailles tous les 2 tours (dos, devant et manches), puis soit 4 mailles (manches seulement ou dos/devant seulement en fonction de la taille) soit 8 mailles (partout). Vous augmentez donc d'abord tous les 2 tours, puis tous les 4 tours. En espérant répondre à votre question. Bon tricot!

Linda Medhus 02.05.2020 - 22:55:

Just below the raglan info there are 2 paragraphs. Increase every 4 round as follows: and Increase as follows, after the marker thread: Is the 1st paragraph for the body and the 2nd paragraph for the sleeve?

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 12:28:

Dear Mrs Medhus, these both p aragraphs apply to the increases, first it explains how to increase for raglan on every other round, then how to increase for raglan on every 4th round before the marker thread, then how to increase on 4th round after the marker thread. You will increase for body and sleeve first on every other round then on every 4th round. You will increase on each piece (front, back and sleeves) first after the marker (raglan) then before the marker (next raglan). Happy knitting!

María José Ayala 08.02.2020 - 18:34:

Porfavor si pudieran contestar la última pregunta 🙏🙏🙏\r\nMuchas gracias

María José 04.02.2020 - 12:03:

Buen día, después de aumentar cada dos vueltas 12 veces (talla s) en delantero espalda sigo aumentando solo en mangas por 6 veces más, y luego cuando termine estos aumentos en mangas comienzo simultáneamente aumentando cada 4 vueltas? O cuando termine de hacer los aumentos cada dos vueltas de espalda /delantero comienzo inmediatamente cada 4 vueltas? En la foto el raglán no deja de tener agujeros, y si no sigo con los aumentos no quedarán agujeros Muchas gracias

DROPS Design 09.02.2020 kl. 19:26:

Hola Maria Jose. Los aumentos en el raglán se trabajan sin interrupciones, es decir, cuando termines de aumentar cada 2ª vuelta, continuamos aumentando en cada 4ª vuelta. Los aumentos en el cuerpo y en las mangas se trabajan diferente, no se trabajan simultáneamente. La linea de raglán no se interrumpe en ningún momento.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 175-32

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.