DROPS / 175 / 31

Petronella by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down with 3/4-length sleeves in DROPS Muskat. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no. r-706
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour 20, light mint

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase every 2nd round as follows:
Increase as follows before the marker thread:
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 1, marker thread.
Increase as follows, after the marker thread: Marker thread, knit 1, make 1 yarn over.
On the next round work the yarn overs knit, there will be holes.

Increase every 4th round as follows:
Increase as follows before the marker thread:
ROUND 1: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 1, marker thread.
ROUND 2: Yarn overs worked knit, there will be holes.
ROUND 3: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread: Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, marker thread. No increase in stitches, but the row of holes is continued as before.
ROUND 4: Yarn overs worked knit, there will be holes.

Increase as follows, after the marker thread:
ROUND 1: Marker thread, knit 1, make 1 yarn over.
ROUND 2: The yarn overs are worked knit, there will be holes.
ROUND 3: Marker thread, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. No increase in stitches, but the row of holes continues as before.
ROUND 4: The yarn overs are worked knit, there will be holes.



DECREASE TIP:
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread: Knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch = 2 stitches decreased.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) and make 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted knit to prevent holes (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch).
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JUMPER: 
The piece is worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 80-84-88-92-96-100 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Muskat. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, on the last round of the ridges increase 20 stitches evenly along the round = 100-104-108-112-116-120 stitches. Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: first marker thread after 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches (= half the back piece), second marker thread after 12 new stitches (= sleeve), third marker thread after 38-40-42-44-46-48 new stitches (= front piece), fourth marker thread after 12 new stitches (= sleeve), there are 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches left on the needle after the last marker thread (= half the back piece). Begin with increase to raglan as described above, work stocking stitch across the stitches on the back piece and front piece and A.1 across the sleeve stitches. The increases are different for the front piece/back piece and the sleeves as follows:

FRONT PIECE/BACK PIECE:
Increase every 2nd round 12-15-17-25-30-35 times, then every 4th round 7-7-7-4-3-2 times.

SLEEVES:
Increase every 2nd round 22-27-31-33-32-31 times, then every 4th round 2-1-0-0-2-4 times.

When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height, repeat A.2 in height. The increased stitches on the sleeves are worked in to A.2 as you go. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! After all the increase to raglan, there are 272-304-328-360-384-408 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: Work 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches (= half the back piece), work the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches and place these stitches on a thread (=sleeve), work the next 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches (= front piece), work the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches and place these stitches on a thread (= sleeve), work the last 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches (= half the back piece).

BODY:
Continue working as follows: work half of the back piece, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work the front piece, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work half of the back piece. There are now 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches on the body. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches which were cast on. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Continue with stocking stitch across all the stitches. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased), decrease every 3 cm in total 4 times – READ DECREASE TIP = 152-168-184-208-232-256 stitches. When the piece measures 19-19-19-18-18-19 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches increased), increase every 2 cm in total 6 times – READ INCREASE TIP = 176-192-208-232-256-280 stitches. When the piece measures 32-32-32-33-33-32 cm work A.3 across all stitches. Then cast off with knit, the piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVE: 
The sleeve is worked on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. Place the stitches for the sleeve back on a short circular needle size 4 mm, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue with A.2 across all stitches. When the piece measures 4-4-4-4-4-2 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread. Decrease every 2½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm in total 8-10-12-12-12-12 times = 52-56-60-64-68-72 stitches. When the piece measures 24-22-21-20-19-16 cm work 2 ridges across all the stitches, then cast off with knit. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Lydia Lapidus Radlow 16.06.2020 - 23:48:

Hei, det virker rart at man skal legge opp nye masker under armen etter at man har strikket før og bakstykket sammen på forrige omgang.. er det riktig at det skal gjøres slikt eller skal man legge opp de nye maskene i det en samler før- og bakstykket under armen? Det er bare en omgang som blir trangere under armen før en øker... det har jeg aldri sett før. Kan du forklare?

DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 09:45:

Hei Lydia Etter alle raglan økningene skal du ha 272-304-328-360-384-408 masker på pinnen = Bærestykket. På neste omgang skal det i denne oppskriften strikkes halve bakstykke, så 1. arm (disse erm maskene settes på en tråd). Så strikkes forstykket, deretter 2. arm (disse erm maskene settes også på en tråd), så strikkes de siste maskene (= halve bakstykke). Når du skal strikke ermene, strikkes det opp i de nye maskene, slik unngår du å måtte sy «hullet» mellom bolen og ermene. God Fornøyelse!

Falou 24.03.2020 - 17:09:

Bonjour J’aimerais savoir combien de pelotes de laines faudrait-il pour une taille XL et s’il y a des frais de livraison s’il vous plaît. Merci. Cordialement

DROPS Design 24.03.2020 kl. 17:59:

Bonjour Falou, il vous faut 500 g DROPS Muskat, soit 10 pelotes - cf en-tête. Contactez votre magasin DROPS pour connaître les frais de port. Bon tricot!

Renate 29.01.2020 - 18:00:

Es wird zwischen "Raglanzunahmen" und "Zunahmetipp" unterschieden. Muss ich für die Passe nur die Raglanzunahmen berücksichtigen, d.h. jeweils vor und nach dem Markierungsfaden die Umschläge als Löcher arbeiten? Oder muss ich im Ärmelteil den Zunahmetipp anwenden und nur für Vorder- und Rückenteil jeweils die Raglanzunahmen umsetzen? Oder ist der Zunahmetipp zusätzlich zu den Raglanzunahmen anzuwenden? Oder ausschließlich für den Rumpfteil anzuwenden? Danke für Eure Hilfe!

DROPS Design 30.01.2020 kl. 09:05:

Liebe Renate, alle Raglanzunahmen stricken Sie wie unter RAGLANZUNAHMEN beschrieben ist ; ZUNAHMETIPP beschreibt wie man die Zunahmen am Rumpfteil (nach der Verteilung) arbeitet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Selam Belay 01.05.2019 - 23:00:

Hi Is there increase on the mid back? I don't understand the first marker after 19st? Thanks!

DROPS Design 02.05.2019 kl. 07:52:

Hi Selam, The 4 markers are positioned in each transition between sleeve and body, both front and back. The increases to raglan are either side of each of these markers as described in the pattern - so no increase mid back. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

Gunn Berg 04.04.2018 - 16:28:

Når jeg legger opp 84 masker på rundpinne, blir det en utrolig trang hals. Slik ser det ikke ut på oppskriften. Hvordan får jeg den løse halsen med så få masker?

DROPS Design 18.04.2018 kl. 08:07:

Hei Gunn. Om du ser på målskissen nederst i oppskriften ser du at halsåpningen er 20 cm (= ca 40 cm runt i str M). Dette stemmer overens med den den angitte strikkefastheten. Om du vil ha halsåpnigen litt videre kan du legge opp litt løsere, gå opp en halv pinnestørrelse eller evt velge å følge en større størrelse, du må prøve deg frem å se hva du syntes passer. God fornøyelse

Patoudefrance 26.01.2018 - 10:46:

Bonjour, je souhaite réalisé le modele r-706 raglan sur aiguille circulaire mais avec les manches d'une couleur et le corps d'une autre. Le jacquart serai une solution mais je ne souhaite pas voir l es fils derrière. Si j'utilise 4 pelotes en même temps, le ne peux plus tricoter en rond. Y a t il une solution qui m'échappe? Pas de magasin de laine dans mon secteur, je me sens vraiment seule ! Merci de votre aide.

DROPS Design 26.01.2018 kl. 13:26:

Bonjour Patoudefrance, vous trouverez ici quelques informations qui devraient pouvoir vous aider. N'oubliez pas que vous pouvez contacter votre magasin DROPS même par mail, téléphone ou via les réseaux sociaux. Bon tricot!

Grete 25.06.2017 - 23:36:

Jeg lurer på hvordan det skal økes på fram-og bakstykket? Hvor mange masker skal økes på hver 2.omgang? Hvor skal det økes?

DROPS Design 26.06.2017 kl. 14:02:

Hei Grete. I begynnelsen av oppskriften er det forklart hvordan det skal økes til raglan, under MØNSTER og over FELLETIPS. Under BÆRESTYKKE står det hvordan det skal økes til forstykket/bakstykket og på ermene(det økes forskjellig på forstykket/bakstykket og på ermene slik).God Fornøyelse!

Malin Hallgren 07.05.2017 - 16:51:

Hej! Det står inte i mönstret hur många maskor som ska ökas på fram/bakstycket eller var på varvet. En mycket rörig och knapphändig beskrivning! Hur sker ökningarna?

DROPS Design 08.05.2017 kl. 14:14:

Hej! Ökningarna görs på varje sida om markören i varje sida och det ökas totalt 6 gånger i varje sida så här: ÖKNINGSTIPS: Sticka till det är 1 maska kvar före markören. Gör 1 omslag, sticka 2 rätmaskor (markören sitter mellan dessa 2 maskor) och gör 1 omslag. På nästa varv stickas omslagen vridet räta så att det inte blir hål (de ökade maskorna stickas i slätstickning).

Magotte 17.04.2017 - 08:30:

Bonjour, les diagrammes A1 et A2 ne sont ils pas inversés dans leur numéro? Merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 18.04.2017 kl. 11:08:

Bonjour Margotte, on tricote 1 x A.1 (sans jours) en hauteur sur les manches, puis on continue en répétant A.2 en hauteur (avec des jours). Bon tricot!

Christina D. Cersosimo 02.03.2017 - 16:47:

Regarding the Questions on Row 2 on the sleeve, your response doesn't make sense to me. The pattern reads K1, YO (for raglan = 2 st), K2tog YO (5 times=10st), then YO, K1 (for raglan=2st). This would be 2 YO's next to each other. You say K1, YO, then K2tog YO (5X) - this uses 11 st so far, but you say there are 2 st left - but there would only be 1. A double YO worked, looks okay, but the pattern isn't clear.

DROPS Design 03.03.2017 kl. 08:41:

Dear Mrs Cesosimo, you have to repeat A.2 on sleeve until 1 st remain before marker, then make a YO for the inc. Depending on your number of sts you may not be able to work K2 tog/YO all the time, if only 1 st remain (before the last st), K1, then work the inc for raglan. Make sure your number of sts in sleeve is correct, so that each dec is compensated by 1 YO in pattern + 2 sts inc (= 2 YOs) for raglan. Happy knitting!

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