DROPS / 174 / 15

The Rower by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with cables, raglan and folding edge at the neck in Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: cable, jumpers, raglan,
  • The Rower / DROPS 174-15 - Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with cables, raglan and folding edge at the neck in Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.
  • The Rower / DROPS 174-15 - Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with cables, raglan and folding edge at the neck in Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.
  • The Rower / DROPS 174-15 - Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with cables, raglan and folding edge at the neck in Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.
  • The Rower / DROPS 174-15 - Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with cables, raglan and folding edge at the neck in Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no u-809
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
700-750-850-950-1000-1100 g colour no 72, light pearl grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
----------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work next 2 (marker is between these sts), 1 YO. On next round work YOs twisted. Work the new sts into the pattern.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to rib):
When dec sts in rib, dec evenly by P 2 tog over sections with P in rib.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to elevation):
All dec are done from RS!
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, work the next 3 K tog (= 2 sts dec), work the next 2 K (marker is in the middle of these sts), work the next 3 K twisted tog (= 2 sts dec). Repeat at the other marker.

RAGLAN:
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 1 (marker is here).
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
NOTE: When dec sts in stocking st in diagram A.2, A.3, A.4, A.5 and A.6 (i.e. there is not enough sts for cable), continue with K over K and P over P until all sts in diagram have been dec.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Worked in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 268-280-292-316-340-376 sts with Karisma on circular needle size 3.5 mm. K 1 round. Then work rib as follows: * A.2a (= 12 sts), A.3a (= 15 sts), A.4a (= 9 sts), P 1, (K 3/P 3), repeat from (-) 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in total, K 3, P 1, A.5a (= 9 sts), A.3a, A.6a (= 12 sts), (K 3/P 3), repeat from (-) 3-4-4-6-7-10 times in total, K 3 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time on round. Repeat the first 2 round in diagram and work K over K and P over P the remaining sts until 12 rounds have been worked in total.
Now work as follows: * Work 3rd round in diagram over the first 36 sts, the work rib as before over the next 41-41-47-47-53-53 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-7-9-9-11-11 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP 1, work 3rd round over the next 36 sts, then work rib as before over the next 21-27-27-39-45-63 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-9-5-5-7-9 sts evenly *, repeat from *-* 1 more time on round = 220-236-252-276-292-324 sts. Work last round in diagram A.2a to A.6.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts in rib. Rib measures approx. 5 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Now work pattern as follows: * Work A.2b (= 11 sts), A.3b (= 13 sts), A.4b (= 9 sts), work A.1 over the next 28-32-36-36-40-40 sts, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.5b (= 9 sts), A.3b (= 13 sts), A.6b (= 11 sts), work A.1 over the next 12-16-20-32-36-52 sts, work the first 2 sts in A.1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Continue pattern like this in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm, insert 2 markers in piece as follows: Insert 1st marker after 103-109-115-121-127-135 sts and 2nd marker 7-9-11-17-19-27 sts before end of round (= 110-118-126-138-146-162 sts between each of the markers). On next round inc 1 st in each side of marker in each side - Read INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc when piece measures 26-27-27-28-28-29 cm = 228-244-260-284-300-332 sts. When piece measures 44-44-45-45-45-45 cm, work as follows: Work until 5 sts remain before 1st marker, cast off the next 10 sts for armhole (= 5 sts on each side of marker), work until 5 sts remain before 2nd marker, cast off the next 10 sts for armhole (= 5 sts on each side of marker), work the remaining sts on round. There are 104-112-120-132-140-156 sts for both front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle.
Cast on 60-60-66-66-66-72 sts with Karisma on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib as follows: K 3, (P 3, K 3) repeat from (-) 3-3-4-4-4-5 times in total, A.4a (= 9 sts), K 3, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 3 times in total for all sizes, A.5a (= 9 sts). Continue like this and repeat the first 2 rounds in diagram until 12 rounds have been worked. Now work from the 3rd round in diagram as follows: Work rib as before over the first 21-21-27-27-27-33 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-5-5-5-7 sts evenly, continue over A.4a as before, work rib as before over the next 21 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 54-54-58-58-58-62 sts. Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Now continue as follows: K the first 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts, insert a marker here (= mid under sleeve). NOTE: This is done to re-place the start of round. The round starts here now. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work the last 3-3-1-1-1-3 sts in diagram A.1, then work entire A.1 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in width, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.4b, work A.1 over the next 18 sts, A.5b, work A.1 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in width and finish with the first 1-1-3-3-3-1 st in A.1.
Continue pattern in the round like this. When piece measures 7 cm in all sizes, beg inc under sleeve. READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 12th-9th-9th-7th-6th-6th round 11-5-5-17-15-15 times and every 0-8th-8th-0-5th-5th round 0-10-10-0-4-4 times (= 11-15-15-17-19-19 times in total) = 76-84-88-92-96-100 sts. When piece measures 54-53-52-51-49-48 cm (NOTE: shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), cast off 10 sts mid under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 66-74-78-82-86-90 sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4 mm as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 340-372-396-428-452-492 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue pattern as before but now work 4 K over every transition between body and sleeves (= 2 K on each side of markers). NOTE: Beg of round is at marker in transition between right sleeve and back piece. AT THE SAME TIME on first round, beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above!
NOTE: Dec differently on body and sleeves.
RAGLAN BODY:
Dec like this every other round 17-20-20-22-25-26 times and every round 13-13-15-17-17-22 times (= 30-33-35-39-42-48 times in total).
RAGLAN SLEEVES:
Dec like this every 4th round 4-3-2-3-4-5 times and every other round 16-21-24-25-26-27 times (= 20-24-26-28-30-32 times in total).

When all dec for raglan are done, 140-144-152-160-164-172 sts remain.

Work 1 round with pattern as before but finish when 24 sts remain on round in all sizes (= after 2 sts after marker between front piece and right sleeve). Insert a marker here. This is now beg of round. Now work an elevation back and forth in the back of neck as follows:
NOTE: Continue with pattern as before and now dec 2 sts on each side of marker in transition between sleeves and back piece (= 8 sts dec on row from RS) - READ DECREASE TIP 2! AT THE SAME TIME work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 92-94-98-102-104-108 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 2 (= WS): Turn and work 81-83-87-91-93-97 sts,
ROW 3: Turn and work 78-80-84-88-90-94 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 4: Turn and work 67-69-73-77-79-83 sts,
ROW 5: Turn and work 64-66-70-74-76-80 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 6: Turn and work 53-55-59-63-65-69 sts,
ROW 7: Turn and work 50-52-56-60-62-66 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 8: Turn and work back to marker (= beg of round).
32 sts have been dec in total in elevation and 108-112-120-128-132-140 sts remain on round.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Now work 1 round K as follows:
Work the first 14 sts and inc 1 st (= sleeve), work the next 4 sts, then work the next 24-26-30-34-36-40 sts (= back piece) while inc 3-1-3-5-3-5 sts evenly, work the next 4 sts, work the next 14 sts and inc 1 st (= sleeve), work the next 4 sts, work the next 40-42-46-50-52-56 sts (= front piece) while dec 1-3-1-5-1-5 sts evenly, work the remaining 4 sts = 112-112-124-130-136-142 sts.
Now work rib as follows: P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 4, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 4-4-5-6-6-7 times in total, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 4, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 6-6-7-7-8-8 times, P 3, K 4. Continue in the round with K over K and P over P until rib measures 7 cm. Loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a folding edge, make sure to avoid a tight edge.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.01.2017
SLEEVES:... Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and now continue as follows: ...
Updated online: 16.10.2017
Pattern has been corrected under SLEEVE:...Continue like this and repeat the first 2 rounds in diagram until 12 rounds have been worked. Now work from the 3rd round in diagram as follows: Work rib as before over the first 21-21-27-27-27-33 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-5-5-5-7 sts evenly, continue over A.4a as before, work rib as before over the next 21 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 54-54-58-58-58-62 sts. Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Now continue as follows: K the first 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts, insert a marker here (= mid under sleeve). NOTE: This is done to re-place the start of round. The round starts here now. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work the last 3-3-1-1-1-3 sts in diagram A.1, then work entire A.1 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in width, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.4b, work A.1 over the next 18 sts, A.5b, work A.1 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in width and finish with the first 1-1-3-3-3-1 st in A.1...

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts K YO twisted on next round to avoid hole.
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = P 3 tog
symbols = no st
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 174-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (128)

country flag Anne-Marie Nygaard 27.07.2021 - 11:45:

Bol: Når jeg har strikket 3. omgang i diagram A.2a, A.3a og A.4a har jeg bare strikket 33 masker og ikke 36: Altså to masker vrangt sammen, en vrang, en rett, en maske løs av, tre rett, to vrang og to vrange sammen . I A.3a vil jeg «miste» to masker, to vrang sammen, fire rette, en maske løst av, tre masker vrangt sammen, en maske løst av, fire rette og to vrange sammen (= 13 m). 11 + 13 =24. Med ni masker i A.4a blir dette 33.

country flag Matt 27.07.2021 - 03:32:

You call for a collar length of 2.75 inches. That seems very long. Do you intend for the collar to be folded over when worn?

user icon DROPS Design 27.07.2021 kl. 09:25:

Hi Matt, Yes, under assembly, the instructions are to fold the neck double to the inside of the jumper. Happy knitting!

country flag Matt 25.07.2021 - 23:00:

I solved the problem with the back neck decreases. It might help for American knitters if you specified that these are worked in short rows. That may be obvious to many, but it would avoid any confusion.

country flag Matt 25.07.2021 - 00:29:

I'm working on the back decreases. Where do I lose the extra 3 stiches on each row? I am decreasing 8 which should give me 8 stitches less to work than the previous row, but each row (W and S) has me working 3 less stiches than I would expect

user icon DROPS Design 26.07.2021 kl. 08:44:

Dear Matt, you are working the end of the yoke, is that right? When working the elevation/short rows, you will decrease 4 sts for raglan: 1 st at the end of the 1st sleeve + 2 sts on back piece as before + 1 st at the beg of 2nd sleeve - and at the same time, you work the short rows working less stitches on every row from RS and from WS - can this help or did I misunderstood your question?

country flag Anne-Marie Nygaard 14.07.2021 - 11:34:

Jeg forstår heller ikke 2. avsnitt i bolen (se svar 01.02.21). Når jeg har strikket 3. omgang i diagram A.2a, A.3a og A.4a har jeg bare strikket 33 masker og ikke 36: Altså to masker vrangt sammen, en vrang, en rett, en maske løs av, tre rett, to vrang og to vrange sammen . I A.3a vil jeg «miste» to masker, to vrang sammen, fire rette, en maske løst av, tre masker vrangt sammen, en maske løst av, fire rette og to vrange sammen (= 13 m). 11 + 13 =24. Med ni masker i A.4a blir dette 33.

country flag Kätlin 07.07.2021 - 13:17:

Tere Saatsin teile just hetk tagasi küsimusi, aga ma leidsin vea. Ma järgin mõlemat eesti ja inglise keelset versiooni ja leidsin, et 12-16-20-20 -36-36 peaks hoopis olema 12-16-20-32-36-52. Kas ma saan ´õieti aru ? A.5b (= 9 s), skeemi A.3b (= 13 s), skeemi A.6b (= 11 s), skeemi A.1 järgmisel 12-16-20-20-36- 36 s, koo esimesed 2 s skeemil A.1 *, korda * kuni* veel 1 kord. Jätka niimoodi ringselt kudumist

country flag Kätlin 07.07.2021 - 13:09:

Edasi koo mustrit järgmiselt: koo * skeemi A.2b (= 11 s), skeemi A.3b (= 13 s), skeemi A.4B (= 9 s), skeemi A.1 järgmisel 28-32-36-36-40-40 s, koo esimesed 2 s skeemil A.1,skeemi A.5b (= 9 s), skeemi A.3b (= 13 s), skeemi A.6b (= 11 s), skeemi A.1 järgmisel 12-16-20-20-36- 36 s, koo esimesed 2 s skeemil A.1 *, korda * kuni* veel 1 kord. Ma ei saa aru kuidas teisel A.1 kordusel on 36 silma , kas seal ei peaks olema 54 s . Eelnevalt kahandasin ma selles kohas 63s 54 s-le.

user icon DROPS Design 16.07.2021 kl. 21:13:

Tere Kätlin! Suur tänu vea teatamise eest! Viga parandatud ja tekst uuendatud. Palun vaadake parandust juhendi lõpus! Head kudumist!

country flag Simone 06.05.2021 - 18:53:

Hello again, I'm hoping for some help pls. knitting the rover mens jumper 174-15 and I'm stuck straight away on the first round with the diagram. I can not understand the symbol with all black square = no st do I slip that st?

user icon DROPS Design 06.05.2021 kl. 21:03:

Dear Simone, we put those suares there so the diagram shows how stitches and rows relate to each other. They are there, because some stitches were decreased before, without corresponding yarnovers in the pattern, and there are less stitches. So you do not have to slip them, simply act, as they are not there at all. When you get there, just knit the next symbol. Happy Knitting!

country flag Merit Scotford 27.04.2021 - 15:45:

I think the increases in the middle of the underarm A.1 panel look like one has made an error. Why not put the increases along the edge of the A.1 panel where they would disappear into the purl ditch next to the cable?

user icon DROPS Design 28.04.2021 kl. 00:44:

Dear Merit, the shaping of the sleeves are better if the increases are done at the midle of teh underarm, and if it is done symmetrically and regurarly, does look intentionel. However, you can try to modify the pattern to your tase if you like. Happy Knitting!

country flag Matt In VT 25.04.2021 - 22:23:

At 6" i am to increase before and after the new markers. That leaves me with 4 knits in what is otherwise a 2x2 repeat. When you say to work in the stitches, am I right in thinkin that those 4 will be 1x1? Will that not look odd? I guess at 10" I add 2 more stitches per side, which would let me return to 2x2.

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2021 kl. 09:04:

Dear Matt In VT, after first increase on the sides you will first have first either K4 or P4 on each side, when increasing the 2nd time, pattern will fit again over all sts in A.1. Happy knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 174-15

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

174-15 The Rower

Sanna, Sweden

Kabeltrui

Marjan, Netherlands

Chris's 1st sweater

Ashley, United States