DROPS / 174 / 15

The Rower by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with cables, raglan and folding edge at the neck in Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: cable, jumpers, raglan,
DROPS design: Pattern no u-809
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
700-750-850-950-1000-1100 g colour no 72, light pearl grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work next 2 (marker is between these sts), 1 YO. On next round work YOs twisted. Work the new sts into the pattern.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to rib):
When dec sts in rib, dec evenly by P 2 tog over sections with P in rib.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to elevation):
All dec are done from RS!
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, work the next 3 K tog (= 2 sts dec), work the next 2 K (marker is in the middle of these sts), work the next 3 K twisted tog (= 2 sts dec). Repeat at the other marker.

RAGLAN:
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 1 (marker is here).
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
NOTE: When dec sts in stocking st in diagram A.2, A.3, A.4, A.5 and A.6 (i.e. there is not enough sts for cable), continue with K over K and P over P until all sts in diagram have been dec.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Worked in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 268-280-292-316-340-376 sts with Karisma on circular needle size 3.5 mm. K 1 round. Then work rib as follows: * A.2a (= 12 sts), A.3a (= 15 sts), A.4a (= 9 sts), P 1, (K 3/P 3), repeat from (-) 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in total, K 3, P 1, A.5a (= 9 sts), A.3a, A.6a (= 12 sts), (K 3/P 3), repeat from (-) 3-4-4-6-7-10 times in total, K 3 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time on round. Repeat the first 2 round in diagram and work K over K and P over P the remaining sts until 12 rounds have been worked in total.
Now work as follows: * Work 3rd round in diagram over the first 36 sts, the work rib as before over the next 41-41-47-47-53-53 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-7-9-9-11-11 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP 1, work 3rd round over the next 36 sts, then work rib as before over the next 21-27-27-39-45-63 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-9-5-5-7-9 sts evenly *, repeat from *-* 1 more time on round = 220-236-252-276-292-324 sts. Work last round in diagram A.2a to A.6.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts in rib. Rib measures approx. 5 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Now work pattern as follows: * Work A.2b (= 11 sts), A.3b (= 13 sts), A.4b (= 9 sts), work A.1 over the next 28-32-36-36-40-40 sts, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.5b (= 9 sts), A.3b (= 13 sts), A.6b (= 11 sts), work A.1 over the next 12-16-20-32-36-52 sts, work the first 2 sts in A.1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Continue pattern like this in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm, insert 2 markers in piece as follows: Insert 1st marker after 103-109-115-121-127-135 sts and 2nd marker 7-9-11-17-19-27 sts before end of round (= 110-118-126-138-146-162 sts between each of the markers). On next round inc 1 st in each side of marker in each side - Read INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc when piece measures 26-27-27-28-28-29 cm = 228-244-260-284-300-332 sts. When piece measures 44-44-45-45-45-45 cm, work as follows: Work until 5 sts remain before 1st marker, cast off the next 10 sts for armhole (= 5 sts on each side of marker), work until 5 sts remain before 2nd marker, cast off the next 10 sts for armhole (= 5 sts on each side of marker), work the remaining sts on round. There are 104-112-120-132-140-156 sts for both front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle.
Cast on 60-60-66-66-66-72 sts with Karisma on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib as follows: K 3, (P 3, K 3) repeat from (-) 3-3-4-4-4-5 times in total, A.4a (= 9 sts), K 3, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 3 times in total for all sizes, A.5a (= 9 sts). Continue like this and repeat the first 2 rounds in diagram until 12 rounds have been worked. Now work from the 3rd round in diagram as follows: Work rib as before over the first 21-21-27-27-27-33 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-5-5-5-7 sts evenly, continue over A.4a as before, work rib as before over the next 21 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 54-54-58-58-58-62 sts. Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Now continue as follows: K the first 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts, insert a marker here (= mid under sleeve). NOTE: This is done to re-place the start of round. The round starts here now. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work the last 3-3-1-1-1-3 sts in diagram A.1, then work entire A.1 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in width, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.4b, work A.1 over the next 18 sts, A.5b, work A.1 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in width and finish with the first 1-1-3-3-3-1 st in A.1.
Continue pattern in the round like this. When piece measures 7 cm in all sizes, beg inc under sleeve. READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 12th-9th-9th-7th-6th-6th round 11-5-5-17-15-15 times and every 0-8th-8th-0-5th-5th round 0-10-10-0-4-4 times (= 11-15-15-17-19-19 times in total) = 76-84-88-92-96-100 sts. When piece measures 54-53-52-51-49-48 cm (NOTE: shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), cast off 10 sts mid under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 66-74-78-82-86-90 sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4 mm as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 340-372-396-428-452-492 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue pattern as before but now work 4 K over every transition between body and sleeves (= 2 K on each side of markers). NOTE: Beg of round is at marker in transition between right sleeve and back piece. AT THE SAME TIME on first round, beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above!
NOTE: Dec differently on body and sleeves.
RAGLAN BODY:
Dec like this every other round 17-20-20-22-25-26 times and every round 13-13-15-17-17-22 times (= 30-33-35-39-42-48 times in total).
RAGLAN SLEEVES:
Dec like this every 4th round 4-3-2-3-4-5 times and every other round 16-21-24-25-26-27 times (= 20-24-26-28-30-32 times in total).

When all dec for raglan are done, 140-144-152-160-164-172 sts remain.

Work 1 round with pattern as before but finish when 24 sts remain on round in all sizes (= after 2 sts after marker between front piece and right sleeve). Insert a marker here. This is now beg of round. Now work an elevation back and forth in the back of neck as follows:
NOTE: Continue with pattern as before and now dec 2 sts on each side of marker in transition between sleeves and back piece (= 8 sts dec on row from RS) - READ DECREASE TIP 2! AT THE SAME TIME work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 92-94-98-102-104-108 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 2 (= WS): Turn and work 81-83-87-91-93-97 sts,
ROW 3: Turn and work 78-80-84-88-90-94 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 4: Turn and work 67-69-73-77-79-83 sts,
ROW 5: Turn and work 64-66-70-74-76-80 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 6: Turn and work 53-55-59-63-65-69 sts,
ROW 7: Turn and work 50-52-56-60-62-66 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 8: Turn and work back to marker (= beg of round).
32 sts have been dec in total in elevation and 108-112-120-128-132-140 sts remain on round.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Now work 1 round K as follows:
Work the first 14 sts and inc 1 st (= sleeve), work the next 4 sts, then work the next 24-26-30-34-36-40 sts (= back piece) while inc 3-1-3-5-3-5 sts evenly, work the next 4 sts, work the next 14 sts and inc 1 st (= sleeve), work the next 4 sts, work the next 40-42-46-50-52-56 sts (= front piece) while dec 1-3-1-5-1-5 sts evenly, work the remaining 4 sts = 112-112-124-130-136-142 sts.
Now work rib as follows: P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 4, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 4-4-5-6-6-7 times in total, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 4, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 6-6-7-7-8-8 times, P 3, K 4. Continue in the round with K over K and P over P until rib measures 7 cm. Loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a folding edge, make sure to avoid a tight edge.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.01.2017
SLEEVES:... Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and now continue as follows: ...
Updated online: 16.10.2017
Pattern has been corrected under SLEEVE:...Continue like this and repeat the first 2 rounds in diagram until 12 rounds have been worked. Now work from the 3rd round in diagram as follows: Work rib as before over the first 21-21-27-27-27-33 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-5-5-5-7 sts evenly, continue over A.4a as before, work rib as before over the next 21 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 54-54-58-58-58-62 sts. Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Now continue as follows: K the first 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts, insert a marker here (= mid under sleeve). NOTE: This is done to re-place the start of round. The round starts here now. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work the last 3-3-1-1-1-3 sts in diagram A.1, then work entire A.1 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in width, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.4b, work A.1 over the next 18 sts, A.5b, work A.1 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in width and finish with the first 1-1-3-3-3-1 st in A.1...

Diagram

= K
= P
= 1 YO between 2 sts K YO twisted on next round to avoid hole.
= P 2 tog
= P 3 tog
= no st
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 174-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (116)

K-todd 13.02.2021 - 22:35:

Hi, I'm making Size M, with 280 sts cast on. In the ribbing decrease round, using the 3rd row of the diagram, I end up with 232 stitches, not 236. (A.2a dec 2, A.3a dec 2, decrease 7 evenly over the next section, A.3a dec 2, A.6a dec 2, decrease 9 evenly over the next section.) That\'s a total of 24 x 2 = 48 stitches. I can\'t figure out what i\'m doing wrong. Thanks for your help!

Eve 13.02.2021 - 21:12:

Bonjour, pour les manches je ne comprends pas les augmentations. "Augmenter 5 fois tous les 9 tours et 10 fois tous les 8 tours" cela veut dire que sur les 5 premiers 9 tours j'augmente de 2 mailles et en même temps sur les 10 premiers 8 tours j'augmente de 2 mailles ? Ceci donne bien 84 mailles. Ou dois-je faire autrement. Merci pour votre aide Eve

DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 08:39:

Bonjour Eve, pour augmenter 5 fois tous les 9 tours et 10 fois tous les 8 tours, tricotez ainsi: *1 tour d'augmentations, 8 tours sans augmenter*, tricotez 4 fois de *-*, tricotez 1 tour d'augmentations (= 5 fois au total tous les 9 tours), *tricotez 1 tour d'augmentations, 7 tours sans augmenter*, tricotez de *-* 9 fois au total, tricotez encore 1 tour d'augmentations (= 10 fois tous les 8 tours). Bon tricot!

Tina Toomey 05.02.2021 - 20:22:

The body begins after 1 row of knit ... why does it not begin with 2-3 inches of knit 2, pearl 2 for the ribbing? Thank you!

DROPS Design 08.02.2021 kl. 07:41:

Dear Mrs Toomey, you first work 1 round knitting all stitches, then start working rib as shown in the different diagrams and with K3/P3 as described - Repeat the first 2 rows in diagram until you have worked a total of 12 rows then work 3rd row in diagram decreasing evenly in the rib section as well as decreasing/increasing as shown in the diagrams. Happy knitting!

Tina Toomey 05.02.2021 - 13:09:

When the instructions state "repeat from (-) 6-6-7-7-8-8 times, for example, I don't where the instructions are referring to, that is, I don't understand the symbol in the parenthesis. Thank you.

DROPS Design 05.02.2021 kl. 13:51:

Dear Mrs Toomey, when pattern says: ..., (K 3/P 3), repeat from (-) 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in total, this means oyu have to work in rib K3/P3 over the next 36-36-42-42-48-48 sts (= work 6-7-8 times K3/P3). And then: (K 3/P 3), repeat from (-) 3-4-4-6-7-10 times in total, work K3/P3 over the next 18-24-24-36-42-60 stitches. Happy knitting!

Acacia 01.02.2021 - 13:54:

Hej. Strikker i L, og skal tage masker ind i rib, der står 9 + 5 m ind x 2 = 28 masker det giver 264 masker tilbage men i opskrift er der 252 masker? Friendly regards Acacia

DROPS Design 03.02.2021 kl. 08:30:

Hej. På omg 3 i diagram A.2a, A.3a och A.6a feller du masker (2 per diagram) och du stickar diagrammen 2 gånger på omg, så totalt 12 m fellt i de diagrammen. Mvh DROPS Design

Karoline 29.01.2021 - 11:09:

Hei, Jeg strikker i Str L. På bolen sliter jeg litt med å forstå overgangen fra vrangbord til mønsteret. Det står "strikk 3. omgang i diag over de første 36 m". Hva betyr dette? Det er jo 11 forskjellige diagrammer. Hvilket er det man skal strikke over de første 36 m?

DROPS Design 01.02.2021 kl. 13:24:

Hei Karoline. Beskrivelsen på hvilken diagram står lengre opp i avsnittet, slik: ... Deretter strikkes det vrbord slik: * A.2a (= 12 m), A.3a (= 15 m), A.4a (= 9 m), ..... Nå har du strikket 36 masker og så fortsetter du med hva som står videre i oppskriften (som er: , ...deretter strikkes det vrbord som før over de neste 41-41-47-47-53-53 m SAMTIDIG...) mvh DROPS design

Stéphanie Boisseau 29.01.2021 - 05:12:

Bonjour Dans le diagramme que signifie « pas de maille »? On ne la tricote pas ? Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 29.01.2021 kl. 08:17:

Bonjour Mme Boisseau, cette maille n'existe pas encore dans le diagramme, passez directement au symbole suivant. Ainsi dans A.2a, vous allez augmenter au 3ème rang en faisant 1 jeté après les 2 premières mailles endroit, au 4ème rang, vous aurez bien 6 mailles endroit, mais avant cette augmentation, vous devez n'avoir que 5 mailles endroit. Bon tricot!

Lauren 21.01.2021 - 22:24:

How can I find the finished measurements so I know what size to knit? I’m looking to knit for someone with a 49 inch chest. Thank you!

DROPS Design 22.01.2021 kl. 07:59:

Hi Lauren, There is a sketch at the bottom of the pattern with all the measurements for the different sizes. Happy knitting!

Kirsti 21.01.2021 - 10:24:

Hei, eg slit litt med å skjøna overgang frå vrangbord til mønster på erme. Slik eg les det vil A.4b verta forskyven i forhold til A.4a, medan A.5b kjem rett over A.5a. Eg tykkjer at det er litt rart, og eg må ha tolka oppskrifta feil på eit tidspunkt?

DROPS Design 27.01.2021 kl. 15:31:

Hei Kirsti. Hvilken str. strikker du? Har sett over str. S og den stemmer slik at A.4b kommer rett over A.4a og A.5a kommer rett over A.5b. mvh DROPS design

Marjan 14.01.2021 - 12:15:

Ik heb al verschillende drops patronen gebreid met succes. Zijn prachtige truien geworden. Nu wil ik graag deze trui maken in maat M,maar bij de uitleg van de boordsteek strand ik al. Zou ik daarbij uitleg kunnen krijgen

DROPS Design 17.01.2021 kl. 11:13:

Dag Marjan,

Voor de boordsteek begin je gelijk deels met de telpatronen zoals aangegeven. Dus je breit A.2a dan A.3 a, A.4a, 1 averecht, dan 3 recht, 3 averecht, (deze 3 recht/3 averecht herhaal je 6-6-7-7-8-8 keer in totaal, zo ga je verder met de beschrijving en wat tussen de twee sterretjes staat herhaal je nog een keer op de toer.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 174-15

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

174-15 The Rower

Sanna, Sweden

Kabeltrui

Marjan, Netherlands

Chris's 1st sweater

Ashley, United States