DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

The Rower

Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with cables, raglan and folding edge at the neck in Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 174-15
DROPS design: Pattern no u-809
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
700-750-850-950-1000-1100 g color no 72, light pearl gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work next 2 (marker is between these sts), 1 YO. On next round work YOs twisted. Work the new sts into the pattern.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to rib):
When dec sts in rib, dec evenly by P 2 tog over sections with P in rib.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to elevation):
All dec are done from RS!
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, work the next 3 K tog (= 2 sts dec), work the next 2 K (marker is in the middle of these sts), work the next 3 K twisted tog (= 2 sts dec). Repeat at the other marker.

RAGLAN:
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 1 (marker is here).
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
NOTE: When dec sts in stockinette st in diagram A.2, A.3, A.4, A.5 and A.6 (i.e. there is not enough sts for cable), continue with K over K and P over P until all sts in diagram have been dec.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 268-280-292-316-340-376 sts with Karisma on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 round. Then work rib as follows: * A.2a (= 12 sts), A.3a (= 15 sts), A.4a (= 9 sts), P 1, (K 3/P 3), repeat from (-) 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in total, K 3, P 1, A.5a (= 9 sts), A.3a, A.6a (= 12 sts), (K 3/P 3), repeat from (-) 3-4-4-6-7-10 times in total, K 3 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time on round. Repeat the first 2 round in diagram and work K over K and P over P the remaining sts until 12 rounds have been worked in total.
Now work as follows: * Work 3rd round in diagram over the first 36 sts, the work rib as before over the next 41-41-47-47-53-53 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-7-9-9-11-11 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP 1, work 3rd round over the next 36 sts, then work rib as before over the next 21-27-27-39-45-63 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-9-5-5-7-9 sts evenly *, repeat from *-* 1 more time on round = 220-236-252-276-292-324 sts. Work last round in diagram A.2a to A.6.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts in rib. Rib measures approx. 5 cm / 2''.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Now work pattern as follows: * Work A.2b (= 11 sts), A.3b (= 13 sts), A.4b (= 9 sts), work A.1 over the next 28-32-36-36-40-40 sts, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.5b (= 9 sts), A.3b (= 13 sts), A.6b (= 11 sts), work A.1 over the next 12-16-20-32-36-52 sts, work the first 2 sts in A.1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Continue pattern like this in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm / 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4", insert 2 markers in piece as follows: Insert 1st marker after 103-109-115-121-127-135 sts and 2nd marker 7-9-11-17-19-27 sts before end of round (= 110-118-126-138-146-162 sts between each of the markers). On next round inc 1 st in each side of marker in each side - Read INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc when piece measures 26-27-27-28-28-29 cm / 10 1/4"-10½"-10½"-11"-11"-11½" = 228-244-260-284-300-332 sts. When piece measures 44-44-45-45-45-45 cm / 17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4", work as follows: Work until 5 sts remain before 1st marker, bind off the next 10 sts for armhole (= 5 sts on each side of marker), work until 5 sts remain before 2nd marker, bind off the next 10 sts for armhole (= 5 sts on each side of marker), work the remaining sts on round. There are 104-112-120-132-140-156 sts for both front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle.
Cast on 60-60-66-66-66-72 sts with Karisma on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib as follows: K 3, (P 3, K 3) repeat from (-) 3-3-4-4-4-5 times in total, A.4a (= 9 sts), K 3, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 3 times in total for all sizes, A.5a (= 9 sts). Continue like this and repeat the first 2 rounds in diagram until 12 rounds have been worked.
Now work from the 3rd round in diagram as follows: Work rib as before over the first 21-21-27-27-27-33 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-5-5-5-7 sts evenly, continue over A.4a as before, work rib as before over the next 21 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 54-54-58-58-58-62 sts. Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Switch to circular needles 4 mm/US 6 and continue as follows: K the first 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts, insert a marker here (= mid under sleeve).

NOTE: This is done to re-place the start of round. The
round starts here now. Change to double pointed needles size 4
mm.

Work the last 3-3- 1-1- 1-3 sts in diagram A.1, then work entire
A.1 1-1- 2-2- 2-2 times in width, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.4b, work A.1 over the next 18 sts, A.5b, work A.1 2-2- 2-2- 2-3 times in width and finish with the first 1-1- 3-3- 3-1 st in A.1.

Continue pattern in the round like this. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'' in all sizes, beg inc under sleeve. READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 12th-9th-9th-7th-6th-6th round 11-5-5-17-15-15 times and every 0-8th-8th-0-5th-5th round 0-10-10-0-4-4 times (= 11-15-15-17-19-19 times in total) = 76-84-88-92-96-100 sts. When piece measures 54-53-52-51-49-48 cm / 21 1/4"-21"-20½"-20"-19 1/4"-19" (NOTE: shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), bind off 10 sts mid under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 66-74-78-82-86-90 sts. Make another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 as body where armholes were bound off (without working them first) = 340-372-396-428-452-492 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue pattern as before but now work 4 K over every transition between body and sleeves (= 2 K on each side of markers). NOTE: Beg of round is at marker in transition between right sleeve and back piece. AT THE SAME TIME on first round, beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above!
NOTE: Dec differently on body and sleeves.
RAGLAN BODY:
Dec like this every other round 17-20-20-22-25-26 times and every round 13-13-15-17-17-22 times (= 30-33-35-39-42-48 times in total).
RAGLAN SLEEVES:
Dec like this every 4th round 4-3-2-3-4-5 times and every other round 16-21-24-25-26-27 times (= 20-24-26-28-30-32 times in total).

When all dec for raglan are done, 140-144-152-160-164-172 sts remain.

Work 1 round with pattern as before but finish when 24 sts remain on round in all sizes (= after 2 sts after marker between front piece and right sleeve). Insert a marker here. This is now beg of round. Now work an elevation back and forth in the back of neck as follows:
NOTE: Continue with pattern as before and now dec 2 sts on each side of marker in transition between sleeves and back piece (= 8 sts dec on row from RS) - READ DECREASE TIP 2! AT THE SAME TIME work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 92-94-98-102-104-108 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 2 (= WS): Turn and work 81-83-87-91-93-97 sts,
ROW 3: Turn and work 78-80-84-88-90-94 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 4: Turn and work 67-69-73-77-79-83 sts,
ROW 5: Turn and work 64-66-70-74-76-80 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 6: Turn and work 53-55-59-63-65-69 sts,
ROW 7: Turn and work 50-52-56-60-62-66 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 8: Turn and work back to marker (= beg of round).
32 sts have been dec in total in elevation and 108-112-120-128-132-140 sts remain on round.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Now work 1 round K as follows:
Work the first 14 sts and inc 1 st (= sleeve), work the next 4 sts, then work the next 24-26-30-34-36-40 sts (= back piece) while inc 3-1-3-5-3-5 sts evenly, work the next 4 sts, work the next 14 sts and inc 1 st (= sleeve), work the next 4 sts, work the next 40-42-46-50-52-56 sts (= front piece) while dec 1-3-1-5-1-5 sts evenly, work the remaining 4 sts = 112-112-124-130-136-142 sts.
Now work rib as follows: P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 4, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 4-4-5-6-6-7 times in total, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 4, (P 3, K 3), repeat from (-) 6-6-7-7-8-8 times, P 3, K 4. Continue in the round with K over K and P over P until rib measures 7 cm / 2¾''. Loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a folding edge, make sure to avoid a tight edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.01.2017
SLEEVES:... Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and now continue as follows: ...
Updated online: 16.10.2017
Pattern has been corrected under SLEEVE:...Continue like this and repeat the first 2 rounds in diagram until 12 rounds have been worked. Now work from the 3rd round in diagram as follows: Work rib as before over the first 21-21-27-27-27-33 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-5-5-5-7 sts evenly, continue over A.4a as before, work rib as before over the next 21 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 54-54-58-58-58-62 sts. Work last round in diagram A.4a to A.5.a and K over K and P over P over the remaining sts. Now continue as follows: K the first 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts, insert a marker here (= mid under sleeve). NOTE: This is done to re-place the start of round. The round starts here now. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work the last 3-3-1-1-1-3 sts in diagram A.1, then work entire A.1 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in width, work the first 2 sts in A.1, A.4b, work A.1 over the next 18 sts, A.5b, work A.1 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in width and finish with the first 1-1-3-3-3-1 st in A.1...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts K YO twisted on next round to avoid hole.
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = P 3 tog
symbols = no st
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (180)

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Ærmer : rib 3ret, 3 vrang, 3 ret 4 gange A4a (9m) 3ret, 3 vrang, 3 ret ????? I diagrammet er det : 3 vrang, 4 ret, 2 vrang Osv. mht. diagram A5a og A 6a Sådan startede jeg da også på trøjen Er der fejl i opskriften ?

22.02.2024 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Connie, stemmer det med antal masker? Hvilken størrelse strikker du og hvor mange masker har du?

23.02.2024 - 13:23

country flag Silvia wrote:

Hello there, Unfortunately I have not received an answer to my query of over 2 weeks ago - The 2 stitches on both sides of the sweater taken from pattern A1 don't appear to be symmetrical to each other: they are at the end of the 1st half, after the 16 stitches of A1 (size M), then again at the end of these 16 stitches. Am I doing something wrong? Should they not be mirror-like if you look at the sweater as a finished garment? on the sides? thank you for your help, Silvia

17.02.2024 - 09:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Silvia, in size S you have to work first 28 sts in A.1 + the first 2 sts in A.1, so that the pattern will be symmetrical, then you work 12 sts (in S, 16 in M) in A.1 and work the first 2 sts in A.1 so that pattern will be symmetrical, in other words, when you work A.1 you start and end the pattern the same way so that the double moss stitch will be symmetrical. Happy knitting!

19.02.2024 - 08:47

country flag Fausto wrote:

Salve, ho montato 292 maglie con i ferri 3,5 per fare la taglia L, che ho sempre usato e che di solito va benissimo. Ma così il bordo di sotto esce enorme (dovrebbe uscire 53 cm secondo lo schema). Ho visto che altri modelli con lo stesso filato e numero di ferri montano un numero di maglie molto inferiore per lo stesso risultato. (Esempio "Aure" monta 254 maglie, cioè 38 di meno, su ferri sempre 3,5 per un risultato di 52 cm al bordo inferiore) Come è possibile?

14.02.2024 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Fausto, non sono riportati errori nel numero di maglie da montare. Buon lavoro!

25.02.2024 - 16:29

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Ryg & forstk.. : gentag de 2 første omg i diag og strik ret over ret etc HVILKE 2 omg er der tale om og hvilke diagrammer ?

08.02.2024 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Connie. Det gjelder de diagrammene du strikket på forrige omgang (altså A.2a, A.3b, A.4a, A.5a, A.3.a og A.6a) og du skal kun strikke 1.rekke og 2.rekke i disse diagrammene til det er strikket totalt 12 omg (= 1.rekke + 2.rekke + 1.rekke + 2.rekke + 1.rekke + 2.rekke + 1.rekke + 2.rekke + 1.rekke + 2.rekke + 1.rekke + 2.rekke = 12. omganger). mvh DROPS Design

16.02.2024 - 11:13

country flag Eljen wrote:

Ik heb vanaf dat de mouw bij het lijf gevoegd wordt het breiwerk al 2 x helemaal uitgehaald . De minderingen zijn mij onduidelijk: Ik heb maat s , op de mouw 4x elke 4 nld, en 16x om de naald 3 steken geminderd maar nu houd ik te weinig steken over. .. Op de foto zie ik dat de er bij de mouw nog steken over moeten blijven na het minderen. Wat gaat er dan toch fout?

11.01.2024 - 11:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Eljen,

Je mindert 20 keer in totaal voor de mouw, dus 40 steken in totaal (omdat je aan beide kanten mindert. Je zou dan 66-40 = 26 steken over moeten hebben op de mouw.

11.01.2024 - 18:51

country flag Liesbeth wrote:

Ben er inmiddels uit.......

17.12.2023 - 12:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Liesbeth,

Dankjewel voor de terugkoppeling en veel breiplezier!

17.12.2023 - 17:18

country flag Liesbeth wrote:

Ik loop vast bij het begin van de mouw: (Maat medium). Na t boord heb ik de eerste naald gebreid met naald 4. Nu eindig ik met deze naald met de marker (die is verplaatst )tussen twee averechte steken. Bij de volgende naald brei je in patroon....Maar waar begin je dan met naald 3 van A1?. Als ik 2 naalden heb gebreid dan eindig je dus weer tussen 2 averechte steken. Waar begint dan de derde naald van A1?. Klopt het dat je aan 1 kant van 4B en 5B dan om de 2 naalden 5 averechte steken krijgt?

17.12.2023 - 12:03

country flag Liesbeth wrote:

Heb het niet goed uitgelegd wat ik bedoel. je meerdert van 54 naar 84 steken dus in totaal 15 keer ( = 30 steken) Zoals in de beschrijving staat zou je 16 keer moeten meerderen.........

15.12.2023 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Liesbeth,

Je hebt gelijk, het woordje 'nog' hoort er niet tussen te staan, ik zal het weg halen.

15.12.2023 - 19:37

country flag Liesbeth wrote:

Bij de meerderingen in de mouw voor maat medium staat dat er in totaal 20 steken worden gemeerderd. ( 54-74) . Er staat dat de 1ste meerdering na 7 cm is en dan NOG eerst 5 en dan 10 dus in totaal nog 16 ! keer.. Dan kom je niet uit op 20 steken gemeerderd maar op 21! Moet er niet staan : na 7 cm Meerder zo elke 9 de naald IN TOTAAL 5 maal enz ? niet NOG ?

15.12.2023 - 13:36

country flag Liesberth wrote:

Ben begonnen met naald 4 dus net na het boord in maat medium. Na de 32 en 16 steken in A1 staat : brei de eerste 2 steken in A1. Betekent dit dat dus telkens 2 averechte steken worden gebreid of om de 2 naalden averecht/recht .

07.12.2023 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Liesberth,

Nee je breit dan steeds de eerste 2 steken van A.1. Dat is dus afwisselend 2 naalden 2 averechte steken en 2 naalden 2 rechte steken.

10.12.2023 - 16:34