DROPS Extra / 0-1310

Silver Rain by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with seamless sleeves and wave pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Sizes S/M - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Model nr me-095
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S/M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
750-900-1000-1100-1200 g color no 05, light gray

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm/H – or size needed to get 14 dc in 10 cm / 4'' in width, or 1 pattern repeat of A.2 in 6 cm / 2 3/8'' in width.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white) NR 540: 2 pcs in all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

CROCHET TIP:
Work every row from RS in the back loop of st on previous row and work every row from WS in the front loop of st on previous row. Work every row with sc from WS. Sts that are not worked in diag are worked like the first st in the pattern, i.e. Work the sts in sc on rows with sc in it. NOTE: These sts are also worked in the back and front loop in relation to RS and WS.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every row with dc with 3 ch (replaces first dc)
Beg every row with sc with 1 ch (replaces first sc)
Beg every row with dtr with 5 ch (replaces first dtr)
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JACKET:
Work from back piece and up towards the neck, then divide the piece and work down each front piece.

BACK PIECE:
Work 110-122-134-146-158 ch (includes 1 ch for turning) with hook size 5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work 1st row of A.1 to A.3 (with sc) from WS as follows: Work A.1 over the 1st 8 ch (includes the ch for turning), then A.2 over the next 96-108-120-132-144 ch (= in total 8-9-10-11-12 times in width), and finish with A.3 over the last 6 ch – READ CROCHET TIP! Continue in pattern like this. Repeat A.z in height. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

When piece measures approx. 50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19 3/4"-20"-20½"-21"-21 1/4" – make sure that next row is a row with dc (= from RS) – cut the thread.

Then work the sleeves as follows: Work 25-22-20-17-14 LOOSE ch, continue working over the back piece from RS like this: Work A.6 over A.3, A.5 over A.2 and A.4 over A.1 - NOTE: Adjust which
row in pattern A.6, A.5 and A.4 to start with so that the pattern
continues with the similar row as before,and finish with 25-22-20-17-14 LOOSE ch (includes 1 ch for turning) – READ CROCHET INFO, turn the piece. Work from RS like this: Work 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook (= 2 sc), 1 sc in each of the next 23-20-18-15-12 ch, work A.4, A.5 and A.6 as before, work 1 sc in each of the last 25-22-20-17-14 ch = 25-22-20-17-14 sc in each side of the piece and A.4 to A.6 (= in total 159-165-173-179-185 sts). The first and last 25-22-20-17-14 sts are not worked in diag, but like the first st in diag, i.e. Work dtr in i diag work sleeve sts like dtr – REMEMBER THE CROCHET TIP!

Continue like this until work measures in total 70-72-74-76-78 cm / 27½"-28½"-29"-30"-30 3/4", make sure that next row is a row from RS, put piece aside and work the shawl collar.

RIGHT SHAWL COLLAR:
Work 34-39-34-39-34 ch (inkl 3 ch for turning) with hook 5 and Merino Extra Fine. Work 1 dc in the 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2-0-2-0-2 ch, * skip1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* = 28-32-28-32-28 dc.

Then work as follows:
1st ROW (= RS: 5 sc, 5 hdc, 18-22-18-22-18 dc.
2nd ROW (= WS): Work 1 dc in each of the 28-32-28-32-28 sts.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until piece measures approx. 6-6-7-7-8 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3" in the most narrow part – make sure to finish with the 2nd row (= WS). Cut and fasten the thread.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE
Then work right front piece tog with the right shawl collar from RS as follows:

Beg on the outermost part of sleeve: Work the first 25-22-20-17-14 sts like the first st in the pattern as before, A.6 as before (= 6 sts), repeat A.5 over the next 36-36-48-48-60 sts (= in total 3-3-4-4-5 times in width), work next A.5 over the next 0-6-0-6-0 sts on the back piece and the first 12-6-12-6-12 dc from the shawl collar, repeat A.5 in total 0-1-0-1-0 more time, A.4 over the next 7 dc, and finish with 9-7-9-7-9 sts like the first st in the pattern (= front band) = repeat A.5 in total 4-5-5-6-6 times in width (= 95-102-102-109-108 sts).

Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 40-42-44-46-48 cm / 15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4"-18"-19" from where ch for sleeve were worked (Piece measures in total 90-93-96-99-102 cm / 35½"-36½"-37 3/4"-39"-40"), make sure to work the next row from RS. Cut the thread. Skip the first 25-22-20-17-14 sts (= for sleeve), work A.3 over A.6 (adjust to the row in pattern) and A.5 and A.4 as before, and 9-7-9-7-9 sts like the first st in the pattern (= 70-80-82-92-94 sts).

When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19 3/4"-20"-20½"-21"-21 1/4" from where sts for sleeve were skipped (work measures in total 140-144-148-152-156 cm / 55"-56½"-58"-59 3/4"-61 1/4"), make sure to finish with 1 whole repeat of A.z (make sure the number of repeats in height matches the number of repeats in back piece). Cut and fasten the thread.

LEFT SHAWL COLLAR:
Work 33-37-33-37-33 ch (includes 3 ch for turning) with hook 5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work 1 st in the 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 st in each of the next 1-5-1-5-1 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* = 27-31-27-31-27 dc.

Then work as follows:
1st row (= RS): Work 17-21-17-21-17 dc, 5 hdc and 5 sc.
2nd row (= WS): Work 1 dc in each of the 27-31-27-31-27 sts.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until work measures approx. 6-6-7-7-8 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3" in the most narrow part – make sure to finish with 2nd row (= WS).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Do not work any longer over the mid 24 sts (= 2 repeats of A.5) = neck.

Work left front piece tog with left shawl collar from RS like this: work the first 9-7-9-7-9 sts from shawl collar like the first st in the pattern, A.6 over the next 6 dc from shawl collar, A.5 in total 0-1-0-1-0 time over shawl collar, repeat A.5 over the next 12-6-12-6-12 dc from shawl collar, skip 24 sts for neck between the right and left front piece (= 2 repeats of A.5), work the remaining 0-6-0-6-0 sts of A.5 over de first 0-6-0-6-0 dc from front piece, repeat A.5 over de next 36-36-48-48-60 sts, A.4 over the next 7 sts, work the next 25-22-20-17-14 sts like the first st in the pattern as before= repeat A.5 in total 4-5-5-6-6 times in width (= 95-102-102-109-108 sts).

Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 40-42-44-46-48 cm / 15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4"-18"-19" from where ch for sleeve were worked (work measures in total 90-93-96-99-102 cm / 35½"-36½"-37 3/4"-39"-40"), make sure that next row is a row from RS. Work like this from RS: Work 9-7-9-7-9 sts like the first st in diag as before, A.6 as before, repeat A.5 as before, Work A.1 over A.4, turn and work back again (= 70-80-82-92-94 sts). I.e. do not work any longer over the last 25-22-20-17-14 sts (= sleeve).

When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19 3/4"-20"-20½"-21"-21 1/4" from where sts for sleeve were skipped (Work measures in total 140-144-148-152-156 cm / 55"-56½"-58"-59 3/4"-61 1/4"), make sure to finish with 1 whole repeat of A.z (adjust the pattern after right front piece). Cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Start at the bottom and work the sides together through both layers from WS as follows: 1 sc, * ch 3, skip 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc around next row *, repeat from *-* along the whole side and finish with 1 sc. Continue working under sleeve through both layers as follows: * ch 1, 1 sc in the next st *, repeat from *-* and make sure to finish with 1 sc. Work the collar together mid back like this: 1 sc, * ch 1, 1 sc in the next dc *, repeat from *-*. Sew the collar to the neck. Fold an edge on the sleeves and fasten with a stitch to keep the edge up. Sew on buttons. The buttons are buttoned through the row of dtr on the front band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= sc in the front loop of st (= from WS)
= ch
= dc in back loop of st (= from RS)
= dtr in back loop of st (= from RS)
= the row of ch is explained in the pattern



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1310) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Annelies 28.10.2019 - 21:59:

Ik had 2 dagen geleden een vraag over de kraag. als antwoordt kreeg ik dat je de kraag los gehaakt wordt een aan het einde eraan gehaakt. Maar in het patroon staat dat je hem met de voorkant mee haakt. Nu snap ik er nog mínder van. De foto bij het patroon valt het haar van mevrouw over de kraag. Hebben jullie misschien nog andere foto's?

DROPS Design 29.10.2019 kl. 09:39:

Dag Annelies,

Klopt, je haakt eerst een losse kraag en daarna haak je deze samen met de panden zoals beschreven in de tekst. Helaas zijn er geen andere foto's.

Annelies 26.10.2019 - 19:18:

Goedeavond, Ik heb het vest gehaakt maar kom er niet uit met de kraag. Hebben jullie een plaatje of duidelijke uitleg hoe dat moet?

DROPS Design 27.10.2019 kl. 16:00:

Dag Annelies,

De kraag wordt los van het kledingstuk gehaakt en aan het einde eraan genaaid. Je zet eerst het aantal lossen (behorende bij je maat) op en dan haak je 1 stokje in de 4e losse vanaf de haaknaald, dit is het 2e stokje (De eerste 3 lossen vervangen het eerste stokje). Daarna vervolg je de beschrijving.

Florence Viollette 14.04.2018 - 13:16:

Je ne comprends pas comment faire le col de ce modèle !

DROPS Design 16.04.2018 kl. 10:46:

Bonjour Mme Violette, pour former le col châle, il doit être plus "haut" côté extérieur et moins côté intérieur (qui sera cousu le long de l'encolure dos), on va ainsi crocheter des "petites" mailles (= mailles serrées) côté intérieur et augmenter la hauteur des mailles (= demi-brides puis brides) pour le côté extérieur, vu sur l'endroit, on aura 5 ms, 5 dB, 18-22 B (cf taille) et sur l'envers: 18-22 B, 5 dB et 5 ms. Bon crochet!

Tanya Fleming 29.09.2017 - 14:11:

I'm really sorry but that didn't help at all. And the video link is for a knitted pattern not a crochet one. I have crocheted the collar but I need more precise details on how to attach the collar and continue down the front

DROPS Design 02.10.2017 kl. 13:00:

Dear Mrs Fleming, sorry, I thought you wanted to know how to attach the collar at the very end. To work right front piece, first work shawl collar, cut the yarn and put aside. Then crochet over sleeve as explained, then on the shoulder on back piece (see number of repeats in your size) then crochet over the sts on shawl collar (over last row worked on collar). Collar is now crochet together and you can continue crochet right front piece from top down. Happy crocheting!

Tanya Fleming 29.09.2017 - 11:31:

Please can I have a diagram or diagrams of how the collar is attached as the instructions are very unclear

DROPS Design 29.09.2017 kl. 13:32:

Dear Mrs Fleming, this video shows this technique for a knitted shawl collar. In that case, crochet together both fundation chains on collar, then crochet together end of rows of collar and neckline on back piece. Happy crocheting!

Loretta Morandin 02.03.2017 - 06:49:

Now I am being told my comment contains forbidden words. Do you have an email? This is very frustrating.

DROPS Design 02.03.2017 kl. 08:49:

Dear Mrs Morantin, try to reword your query and remember you can also get help from your DROPS Store, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Georgiana 27.02.2017 - 19:52:

Hi I hope you can help me. I've reached the point where you attach the shawl colour and continue stitching the right front piece but I'm finding the pattern hard to understand. At what point do I turn to continue the front right part of the garment? Is it after I attach the shawl collar ? I feel like the pattern is telling me to continue the entire garment (185 stitches) but obviously this is not correct as it splits to left and right side of the cardigan.

DROPS Design 28.02.2017 kl. 08:53:

Dear Georgiana, when collar is done, work right shoulder on back piece from RS beg from sleeve (=in larger size): Work the first 14 sts like the first st in the pattern as before, A.6 as before (= 6 sts), repeat A.5 over the next 60 sts (= in total 5 times in width) (= sleeve/shoulder on back piece is now done), work now the first 12 tr from the shawl collar, A.4 over the next 7 tr, and finish with 9 sts like the first st in the pattern (= front band) = repeat A.5 in total 6 times in width (= 108 sts). Happy crocheting!

Loretta Morandin 20.02.2017 - 08:41:

I tried to comment but each time it was too long and then it said I was a spammer so now I dont care about drawing the mistake to your attention.

DROPS Design 20.02.2017 kl. 11:01:

Dear Mrs Morandin, you can try again to shorten your comment or then send your feedback to your Drops store, who will forward us. Thank you. Happy crocheting!

Mrs Yearick 12.02.2017 - 17:56:

Im having trouble doing the back of this pattern. The crochet tips say to crochet stitches not shown in pattern as is the first stitch in pattern, however the sides of the back keep growing on the diagonal. I've gone from 6 stitches to over 10 in less than 6 rows. If I do as the pattern shows I would then have hanging left over stitches on each side. How is the correct way to work the beginning and ending 6 stitches?

DROPS Design 13.02.2017 kl. 11:32:

Dear Mrs Yearick, you should always have the same number of sts and repeat in width, and it should be "straight". Sarting from WS work: A.1 (= over the first 8 chains/sts), repeat A.2 a total of 8-12 times (see size), and finish with A.3 (= over the last 6 chains/sts). From RS work: A.3, repeat A.2 and finish with A.1. Then repeat the last 4 rows in diagram (= A.z). Happy crocheting!

Susan Schünemann 23.01.2017 - 07:24:

Hallo, ich habe Probleme, den Kragen und das Vorderteil zusammen zu bekommen. Ist es richtig, dass die Blende nur über den Kragen gehäkelt wird und nicht über das Rückenteil? Und wie wird dann zu Schluss der Kragen an den Halsausschnitt genäht? Da sind doch nur 24 Maschen "frei". Bis hierhin bin ich super klargekommen, aber dieser Schritt will mir nicht gelingen. Vielen Dank für die Hilfe!

DROPS Design 23.01.2017 kl. 11:08:

Liebe Frau Schünemann, wenn Sie das rechte Vorderteil häkeln, wird der 1. Reihe von dem Ärmel anfangen, dann mit A.5 über die ersten Stb des Schalkragens, A.4 häkeln, und mit den Blendemasschen enden, so werden alle M von dem Kragen gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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