Winter Orchid by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and collar in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: bottom up, cable, chunky knits, collar, high neck, jacket, long sleeves, round neck, sewn in sleeves

DROPS 172-39
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-567
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
900-1000-1100-1200-1300-1450 g colour no 20, plum

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 9 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 14 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm for rib - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 mm - for edge.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 536: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 535: 1 piece for all sizes

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
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	DROPS Snow uni colour	2.00 £ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Snow mix	2.30 £ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

BAND:
Work band in pattern according to diagram A.1 until finished measurements - NOTE: Slip first st at beg of every row from mid front (as if to K).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 73 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 13) = 5.6. I.e. in this example work alternately approx. every 4th and 5th st and every 5th and 6th st tog.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row/round work YOs twisted to avoid holes - work inc sts in stocking st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = beg from RS, slip first st as before, work 2 sts in next st (i.e. work front and back in same st = 1 st inc) and work the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec).
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm
SIZE M: 7, 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm
SIZE L: 9, 18, 27, 36, 45, 54 and 63 cm
SIZE XL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 63 cm.
SIZE XXL: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 and 65 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51, 59 and 67 cm.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front up to armholes. Then finish front and back piece separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needle/a short circular needle and work from bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 135-147-156-168-183-195 sts (incl 7 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 8 mm with Snow. Work first row as follows from RS: Work 7 sts BAND - see explanation above - work rib according to diagram A.2A (= 24 sts), * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from until 32 sts remain on needle, K 1, A.2B (= 24 sts) and finish with 7 sts band. Continue rib like this with 7 band sts in each side towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above. When piece measures 16 cm, work next row as follows from RS: 7 band sts as before, work A.3A (= 24 sts), work in stocking st over the next 73-85-94-106-121-133 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 13-17-18-18-21-21 sts evenly over these sts – READ DECREASE TIP-1, work A.3B (= 24 sts) and finish with 7 band sts as before = 122-130-138-150-162-174 sts. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 36-38-40-43-46-49 sts in from each side (= 50-54-58-64-70-76 sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stocking st + A.3 and 7 band sts in each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 18 cm in all sizes, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec when piece measures 28 cm in all sizes = 114-122-130-142-154-166 sts. When piece measures 34 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 42-42-44-44-46-46 cm = 122-130-138-150-162-174 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, work next row from WS as follows: Work as before over the first 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts (= left front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker), work stocking st over the next 44-48-52-58-64-70 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole and work as before over the remaining 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts (= right front piece). Finish front and back piece separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts. Continue back and forth with 7 band sts, A.3A and stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-3-3 times, and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-4 times = 30-31-31-32-32-33 sts on needle. Continue pattern as before with 0-0-0-1-1-2 sts in stocking st towards the armhole - NOTE: In size S there is now 1 st less in A.3A towards armhole. When piece measures 60-62-64-64-66-68 cm, slip the first 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts at beg of row from mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue with the pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME cast off for neck at beg of every row from mid front as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 21-22-22-22-22-23 sts. Work until 2 rows remain before piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from RS. On next row work sts in the two cables K tog 2 by 2 (= 8 sts dec) = 13-14-14-14-14-15 sts remain on shoulder. K 1 row from WS and cast off with K from RS. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm from shoulder and down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts. Work as right front piece but reversed (i.e. continue in stocking st, A.3B and 7 band sts).

BACK PIECE:
44-48-52-58-64-70 sts. Work in stocking st back and forth over all sts AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-3-3 times, and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-4 times = 38-40-40-42-42-44 sts on needle. Continue to work until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. Now cast off the middle 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 13-14-14-14-14-15 sts remain on the shoulder. Work until 1 rows remain before piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from WS. K 1 row from WS and cast off with K from RS. Repeat on the other shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles bottom up, switch to a short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 24-27-27-27-30-30 sts on double pointed needles size 8 mm with Snow. Work rib in the round (= K 1/P 2). When rib measures 12 cm, K 1 round while dec 4-5-3-3-4-4 sts evenly = 20-22-24-24-26-26 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and move the marker upwards. Switch to double pointed needles size 9 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures 14-14-14-13-13-15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker – READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 3½-3½-3½-3-2½-2 cm 9-9-9-10-11-12 times in total = 38-40-42-44-48-50 sts. When piece measures 45-44-44-42-41-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off the middle 6 sts mid under sleeve and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Continue with stocking st and cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 sts 2 times in all sizes, 1 st 2-2-2-4-5-6 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 54-54-55-55-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 40 to 48 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 8 mm with Snow. K 1 row from WS while at the same time inc evenly to 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Work 3 rows in stocking st, K 1 row from WS and 3 rows in stocking st, then cast off. Fold the neck edge double towards the WS and fasten with neat stitches.

COLLAR:
Beg from RS and pick up 1 st in every P st where neck edge was folded on circular needle size 9 mm with 1 strand Snow = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Then work in garter st back and forth with 2 strands in Snow. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side (inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes). Inc like this every other row (i.e. every row from RS), 4 times in total = 56-58-60-62-64-66 sts. When collar measures 8-9-10-10-11-11 cm, cast off with K from RS.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work a finishing edge along front pieces and around collar on hook size 8 mm with 1 strand Snow as follows: Beg from RS at the bottom of right front piece, work 1 dc in first st, * 1 ch, skip 1 st/row, 1 dc in next st/row *, repeat from *-* up along entire right front piece, around the collar and then along left front piece. Fasten off.

MORE ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece. Sew on the small button approx. 8-9-10-10-11-11 cm from the top along neck line. Button this through crochet edge in the corner on collar - see picture.

Diagram

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS
	= slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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