DROPS / 172 / 39

Winter Orchid by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and collar in ”Eskimo”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-567
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
900-1000-1100-1200-1300-1450 g colour no 20, plum

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 9 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 14 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm for rib - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 mm - for edge.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 536: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 535: 1 piece for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

BAND:
Work band in pattern according to diagram A.1 until finished measurements - NOTE: Slip first st at beg of every row from mid front (as if to K).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 73 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 13) = 5.6. I.e. in this example work alternately approx. every 4th and 5th st and every 5th and 6th st tog.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row/round work YOs twisted to avoid holes - work inc sts in stocking st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = beg from RS, slip first st as before, work 2 sts in next st (i.e. work front and back in same st = 1 st inc) and work the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec).
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm
SIZE M: 7, 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm
SIZE L: 9, 18, 27, 36, 45, 54 and 63 cm
SIZE XL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 63 cm.
SIZE XXL: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 and 65 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51, 59 and 67 cm.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front up to armholes. Then finish front and back piece separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needle/a short circular needle and work from bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 135-147-156-168-183-195 sts (incl 7 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work first row as follows from RS: Work 7 sts BAND - see explanation above - work rib according to diagram A.2A (= 24 sts), * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from until 32 sts remain on needle, K 1, A.2B (= 24 sts) and finish with 7 sts band. Continue rib like this with 7 band sts in each side towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above. When piece measures 16 cm, work next row as follows from RS: 7 band sts as before, work A.3A (= 24 sts), work in stocking st over the next 73-85-94-106-121-133 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 13-17-18-18-21-21 sts evenly over these sts – READ DECREASE TIP-1, work A.3B (= 24 sts) and finish with 7 band sts as before = 122-130-138-150-162-174 sts. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 36-38-40-43-46-49 sts in from each side (= 50-54-58-64-70-76 sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stocking st + A.3 and 7 band sts in each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 18 cm in all sizes, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec when piece measures 28 cm in all sizes = 114-122-130-142-154-166 sts. When piece measures 34 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 42-42-44-44-46-46 cm = 122-130-138-150-162-174 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, work next row from WS as follows: Work as before over the first 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts (= left front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker), work stocking st over the next 44-48-52-58-64-70 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole and work as before over the remaining 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts (= right front piece). Finish front and back piece separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts. Continue back and forth with 7 band sts, A.3A and stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-3-3 times, and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-4 times = 30-31-31-32-32-33 sts on needle. Continue pattern as before with 0-0-0-1-1-2 sts in stocking st towards the armhole - NOTE: In size S there is now 1 st less in A.3A towards armhole. When piece measures 60-62-64-64-66-68 cm, slip the first 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts at beg of row from mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue with the pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME cast off for neck at beg of every row from mid front as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 21-22-22-22-22-23 sts. Work until 2 rows remain before piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from RS. On next row work sts in the two cables K tog 2 by 2 (= 8 sts dec) = 13-14-14-14-14-15 sts remain on shoulder. K 1 row from WS and cast off with K from RS. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm from shoulder and down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts. Work as right front piece but reversed (i.e. continue in stocking st, A.3B and 7 band sts).

BACK PIECE:
44-48-52-58-64-70 sts. Work in stocking st back and forth over all sts AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-3-3 times, and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-4 times = 38-40-40-42-42-44 sts on needle. Continue to work until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. Now cast off the middle 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 13-14-14-14-14-15 sts remain on the shoulder. Work until 1 rows remain before piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from WS. K 1 row from WS and cast off with K from RS. Repeat on the other shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles bottom up, switch to a short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 24-27-27-27-30-30 sts on double pointed needles size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work rib in the round (= K 1/P 2). When rib measures 12 cm, K 1 round while dec 4-5-3-3-4-4 sts evenly = 20-22-24-24-26-26 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and move the marker upwards. Switch to double pointed needles size 9 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures 14-14-14-13-13-15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker – READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 3½-3½-3½-3-2½-2 cm 9-9-9-10-11-12 times in total = 38-40-42-44-48-50 sts. When piece measures 45-44-44-42-41-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off the middle 6 sts mid under sleeve and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Continue with stocking st and cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 sts 2 times in all sizes, 1 st 2-2-2-4-5-6 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 54-54-55-55-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 40 to 48 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. K 1 row from WS while at the same time inc evenly to 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Work 3 rows in stocking st, K 1 row from WS and 3 rows in stocking st, then cast off. Fold the neck edge double towards the WS and fasten with neat stitches.

COLLAR:
Beg from RS and pick up 1 st in every P st where neck edge was folded on circular needle size 9 mm with 1 strand Eskimo = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Then work in garter st back and forth with 2 strands in Eskimo. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side (inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes). Inc like this every other row (i.e. every row from RS), 4 times in total = 56-58-60-62-64-66 sts. When collar measures 8-9-10-10-11-11 cm, cast off with K from RS.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work a finishing edge along front pieces and around collar on hook size 8 mm with 1 strand Eskimo as follows: Beg from RS at the bottom of right front piece, work 1 dc in first st, * 1 ch, skip 1 st/row, 1 dc in next st/row *, repeat from *-* up along entire right front piece, around the collar and then along left front piece. Fasten off.

MORE ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece. Sew on the small button approx. 8-9-10-10-11-11 cm from the top along neck line. Button this through crochet edge in the corner on collar - see picture.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

Rosemarie Lavway 10.11.2019 - 01:49:

I am just starting DROPS 172-39. .I noticed at first it states Garter st back & forth knit all rows. But in the instructions it refers to stockinette st. Help. I love your patterns and am very anxious to complete this one

DROPS Design 10.11.2019 kl. 11:03:

Dear Rosemary, after the ribbing there are reverse stockinett stitches between the cable which are in the charts and the back (and later the sleeves) are knitted with stockinett stitches. happy Knitting!

MARIA 30.06.2019 - 02:20:

Your largest width is 76cm is too small.. How to resize to a larger size?

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 07:10:

Dear Maria, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every single pattern to every request, please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone - or any knitting forum for any further individual assistance. Happy knitting!

MARIA 29.06.2019 - 21:22:

How to find which size to knit for the bust size?

DROPS Design 30.06.2019 kl. 01:04:

Dear Maria, you can find the relevant measurements on the schematic drawing below the pattern, at the bottom of the page. Happy Knitting!

Lesley Hooser 30.04.2019 - 23:35:

I am not sure what I did, but the back shoulder has 15 stitches at cast off and the fronts both have 23 stitches at the shoulder at cast off, what do I do with the extra 8 on the fronts? or have I messed up the pattern? thank you

DROPS Design 01.05.2019 kl. 09:38:

Hello Lesley. On both front pieces, you must knit the sts in the cables together 2 by 2 (so you decrease 8 sts); you then remain with 15 sts for the shoulder. Happy knitting!

Coraline 24.04.2019 - 21:33:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse !

Coraline 23.04.2019 - 21:19:

Bonjour , pour Diminution-2, pourquoi est ce une méthode différente pour diminuer de chaque côté du marqueur ? Pourquoi n’est pas pour les deux cotés en tricotant deux mailles ensemble ? Merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 24.04.2019 kl. 09:31:

Bonjour Coraline, on diminue ainsi pour que les diminutions soient inclinées comme on le souhaite. Bon tricot!

Sielva 01.02.2019 - 19:22:

Bonjour, merci pour ce très joli modèle. J'ai un souci pour les explications des manches. Que signifie rabattre 2 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure environ 54 cm ? N'y a-t-il pas plutôt un nombre précis de rangs pour lesquels on va rabattre les 2 m ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 08:12:

Bonjour Sielva, on va rabattre 2 mailles de chaque côté (sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 54 cm pour que la hauteur soit juste, le nombre de rangs dépendant de votre tension en hauteur, pour l'arrondi de la manche, on va se concentrer sur la hauteur et pas sur le nombre de mailles. Bon tricot!

Anja M. 03.10.2018 - 21:37:

"Bei einer Gesamtlänge von 60-62-64-64-66-68 cm die ersten 5-5-5-6-6-6 M am Anfang der R, die am vorderen Rand der Jacke beginnt, für den Halsausschnitt stilllegen"... gehe ich recht in der Annahme, daß es sich dabei um die Blendenmaschen handelt? Und bei " GLEICHZEITIG für den Halsausschnitt am Anfang jeder R, die am vorderen Rand beginnt, wie folgt abketten: 2 M 1 x und 1 M 2 x = 21-22-22-22-22-23 M"... ebenfalls die Seite, wo die Blendenmaschen waren, gemeint ist?

DROPS Design 04.10.2018 kl. 10:08:

Liebe Anja M., bei dem rechten Vorderteil stricken Sie zuerst eine Hinreihe und die ersten 6 Maschen am Anfang der Reihe stilllegen (diese Maschen zuerst stricken), diese Hinreihe bis zur Ende stricken, wenden, die Rückreihe stricken, und jetzt am Anfang jeder Hinreihe nehmen Sie für den Halsausschnitt ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Celina 18.09.2018 - 17:54:

Hola tengo duda con respecto a la lana, ciertamente no soy de las personas que le pica la lana, pero quisiera saber que tan suave al contacto es Eskimo, o con que lana se puede sustituir que sea más suave. gracias

DROPS Design 29.09.2018 kl. 20:33:

Hola Celina, Eskimo es una lana que se usa normalmente para fieltrar, compuesta por lana 100%. Por lo tanto no es especialmente suave. Sin embargo, se trata de una lana bastante particular por lo que es díficil sustituirla. Se podría usar Drops Andes, que tiene grosor parecido pero diferente composición, o Big Merino trabajado a doble hilo, para que tenga el mismo grosor que Eskimo. Estas calidades son más suaves pero no van a darle a la prenda el mismo efecto que les daría Eskimo.

Anja M. 16.09.2018 - 16:33:

Ich möchte gerne diese fantastische Jacke stricken, mag jedoch nicht so gerne Knöpfe. Ob man auch einen Reißverschluss anstatt der Knöpfe einnähen kann? Oder würde sich die Jacke zu sehr verziehen?

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 09:22:

Liebe Anja, wir können leider nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen, nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf, Sie werden dann weitere persönnliche HIlfen bekommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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