DROPS / 172 / 46

Aredhel by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with hood and A-shape in "Andes". Size: S - XXXL.

  • Aredhel / DROPS 172-46 - Knitted DROPS jacket with hood and A-shape in Andes. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Aredhel / DROPS 172-46 - Knitted DROPS jacket with hood and A-shape in Andes. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Aredhel / DROPS 172-46 - Knitted DROPS jacket with hood and A-shape in Andes. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no an-040
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
1100-1100-1300-1400-1500-1700 g colour no 7130, sea green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 7 mm – for edges in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 540: 2 pieces for all sizes

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.30 £ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 4.30 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 4.60 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS! Dec inside 1 st K and 1 edge st in garter st.
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before 1 K st and 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 st in garter st and K 1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st and 1 K by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

MEASURING TIP-1 (applies to front and back piece):
To get the right proportions on jacket length measurements are done when piece is flat. Because of the weight of the yarn, the piece will be approx. 10 cm longer than measurements in chart.

MEASURING TIP-2 (applies to sleeve):
Because of the weight of the yarn length measurements are done when piece is held up.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for buttonholes on right front piece (from RS): Work 3 sts, cast off 2 sts for buttonhole, work the rest of row. On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 56 and 70 cm
SIZE M: 57 and 72 cm
Size L: 58 and 74 cm
SIZE XL: 59 and 76 cm
Size XXL: 60 and 78 cm
SIZE XXXL: 61 and 80 cm.
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BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts.
Cast on 60-64-70-76-82-88 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work in stocking st with 5 sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 18 cm, cast on 1 edge st in each side = 62-66-72-78-84-90 sts. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 19 cm, dec 1 st in each side (= 2 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP and MEASURING TIP-1! Dec in each side every 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm a total of 6 times = 50-54-60-66-72-78 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, work as follows: Work A.1 over all sts with 1 edge st in garter st in each side (edge st continues in garter st). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work piece until finished measurements in reversed stocking st (edge st in garter st). When piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm, cast off 1 edge st in each side = 48-52-58-64-70-76 sts. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm, cast off the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 16-18-21-23-26-29 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 35-37-40-43-46-49 sts (incl 8 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. Work 3 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 8 sts in garter st (= band), stocking st until 5 sts remain, work 5 sts in garter st. Continue like this in stocking st and garter st. When piece measures 18 cm, work as follows from RS: 8 sts in garter st, stocking st over the remaining sts, cast on 1 edge st at the end of row (edge st in garter st) = 36-38-41-44-47-50 sts. When piece measures 19 cm, dec in the side as on back piece, dec 6 times in total = 30-32-35-38-41-44 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, work as follows: Work 8 sts in garter st, work A.1 over the remaining sts (edge st in garter st). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work piece until finished measurements in reversed stocking st (continue band and edge st in garter st).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 56-57-58-59-60-61 cm, cast off for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm, cast off 1 edge st in the side = 29-31-34-37-40-43 sts.
When piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm, slip the outermost 9-9-9-10-10-10 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time and then 1 st 2 times = 16-18-21-23-26-29 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

HOOD:
Pick up approx. 46 to 58 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. K 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts - do not inc over bands. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Then work in stocking st with 8 sts in garter st in each side, back and forth over all sts until hood measures approx. 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Work 2 ridges over all sts. Cast off. Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Andes. Work 3 ridges - then work A.1 over all sts. Work A.1 1 time vertically. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-8 cm, inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc) and MEASURING TIP-2. Inc every 5-4-4-3½-3-3 cm 9-10-10-11-11-12 times in total = 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts. Cast off when piece measures 51-50-49-48-45-44 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves. Sew under arm and side seams inside 1 edge st, finish when 18 cm remain at the bottom of body for vent. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-46) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Agáta Manasková 27.03.2021 - 13:35:

Dobrý den, proč se mně všechny spodní lemy kroutí nahoru?

country flag Lilian Bille 22.10.2020 - 13:10:

Vil gerne vide om den kan strikkes på pinde nr 5 og selvfølgelig i tyndere garn og hvordan jeg omregner

user icon DROPS Design 22.10.2020 kl. 13:22:

Hej Lilian. Vi har dessvärre inte möjlighet att räkna om denna till tunnare pinnar, men vi har flera liknande opskrifter gjorda för pinne 5, du hittar dem här. Lycka till!

country flag Samya 15.05.2020 - 20:41:

Hey. Thanks for this beautiful pattern. I am in need of clarification. In the explanation of the back piece you mention some measurements but Im confused as to how to measure. For example you say “when piece measures 18cm cast on one edge stitch on each side...then in the next statement you say “when the piece measures 19cm.. so am i to measure 19cm from the 18cm you mentioned? Or 19cm from the bottom of the piece to where Im at? Thanks in advance. And again, lovely pattern

user icon DROPS Design 17.05.2020 kl. 09:12:

Dear Samya, in your case the measurements are from the same pont, from the cast on edge. Happy Knitting!

country flag Samya 15.05.2020 - 20:36:

Hey. Thank you for this pattern. One question I have is on the measurements. In the pattern you state, do this after ‘such and such no of inches’ and Im a bit confused. Is this the no of inches from the bottom of the piece, or from when a measurement was last mentioned? Would really appreciate guidance on this. Thanks 😊

user icon DROPS Design 17.05.2020 kl. 18:45:

Dear Samya, these measurements are for whole piece, so from the beginning/bottom. Happy knitting!

country flag ALEX 27.10.2019 - 12:03:

Bonjour Je viens de découvrir le site qui me plait; J'ai un souci au niveau de la lecture (santé) des explications. Quand je souhaite tricoter un modèle je cherche une vidéo que je suis du début à la fin du modèle. Avez-vous sur le site un moyen d'obtenir les modèle de votre catalogue en vidéo. Merci Bien cordialement

user icon DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 12:27:

Bonjour Alex, nous avons effectivement quelques vidéos qui montrent en vidéo comment réaliser un ouvrage du début à la fin, mais il s'agit de petits ouvrages. Pour vous aider, vous trouverez sous chaque modèle les vidéos montrant les techniques utilisées dans le modèle. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

country flag Marie Godbold 06.09.2019 - 05:34:

I would take that beautiful sweater all the way to my ankles am 6 feet tall

country flag Alexandra 09.03.2019 - 16:16:

Hej, det står på höger fram i slutet att man ska maska av 2m 1 gång och sedan 1m 2ggr hur menas det är jag ska göra ? Maskar jag av 2m tillsammans 1 gång och 1 m för sig 2ggr?

user icon DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 11:06:

Hej! Du ska maska av till hals på varje varv mot halsen (totalt 3 gånger). Den första gången maskar du av 2 maskor, den andra gången 1 maska och den tredje gången 1 maska. Lycka till!

country flag Holly Gruendyke 28.10.2018 - 19:47:

Hi, A couple of questions: My measurements are CHEST--100 cm, WAIST--91 cm. HIPS--102 cm. Which size would be best for me? Also...I already have ESKIMO MIX 100% NEW WOOL---THICKNESS GROUP E (50 gm). How much yarn do I need and which pins should I use? Signed, 'A Newcomer'

user icon DROPS Design 29.10.2018 kl. 00:26:

Dear Holly, as it depends on teh stíle and your preference on how much ase you like your swetaers with please use the schematica at the bottom of the pattern to decide which size to knit. Knitting a swatch can also help you decide which size of needles would be the best. For calculating how much of a different yarn would you need, please use the yarn converter here. Happy Knitting!

country flag Maria 16.10.2018 - 13:52:

Posso usare ferri diritti?Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 16.10.2018 kl. 14:12:

Buongiorno Maria. Il capo è lavorato avanti e indietro. Può quindi usare ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

country flag Annette 24.09.2018 - 09:57:

Wieviel Garn würde ich circa für dieses Model in Größe S/M ohne Kapuze brauchen? Vielen Dank und Liebe Grüße

user icon DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 11:21:

Liebe Annette, wir haben die Garnmenge für diese Jacke nur mit Kapuze und können leider nicht jeder unsere Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen. Gerne bekommen Sie weiter Hilfe von Ihrem DROPS Laden, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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