DROPS / 171 / 2

Winter Hues by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with double moss st in band and shawl collar in ”Eskimo”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-565
Yarn group E or C + C
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
650-750-800-900-1000-1050 g colour no 21, blue/violet

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 7 mm for garter st - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 540: 2 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern, seen from RS.

Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Increase 1 stitch with a yarn over inside 1 edge stitch on each side. Work the yarn overs twisted on next row to avoid holes.

Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog fourth and fifth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 17 and 26 cm.
SIZE M: 18 and 27 cm.
SIZE L: 19 and 28 cm.
SIZE XL: 20 and 29 cm.
SIZE XXL: 21 and 30 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 22 and 31 cm.

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 62-66-70-78-82-86 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with Eskimo. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Work in stocking st with 3 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of the next 2 rows = 64-68-72-80-84-88 sts. Work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 11 cm, dec 1 st in each side of piece - READ DECREASE TIP! Dec like this every 3-3-4-3-4-4 cm 8-8-7-8-7-7 times in total = 48-52-58-64-70-74 sts. When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm, cast off for armhole in each side of piece on every other row: 3 sts 0-1-1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-0-1-2-3-3 times and 1 st 1-1-2-2-2-3 times = 42-44-44-46-48-50 sts. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts for neck = 16-17-16-17-17-18 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Cast on 45-47-49-55-57-59 sts (incl 14-14-14-16-16-16 band sts) on circular needle size 7 with Eskimo. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Work as follows from RS: 14-14-14-16-16-16 band sts in A.1, stocking st until 3 sts remain, finish with 3 sts in garter st. Continue like this until piece measures 8 cm. Cast on 1 new st at the end of next row from RS = 46-48-50-56-58-60 sts. Work as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, stocking st until 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts remain, A.1 over band sts as before. Continue like this. When piece measures 11 cm, dec in the side (i.e. at the end of row from RS) as on back piece = 38-40-43-48-51-53 sts. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm, cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 35-36-36-39-40-41 sts. When cast off for armhole is done work band sts (= 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts towards mid front) in garter st until finished measurements. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, cast off the first 16-17-16-17-17-18 sts for shoulder on next row from WS = 19-19-20-22-23-23 sts remain for shawl collar. Continue in garter st over these sts - AT THE SAME TIME work short rows, beg from the neck (RS) as follows: * Work 1 ridge over all sts (= 2 rows K). On next row from RS K 14-14-14-16-16-16, turn and K back *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm from cast off for shoulder (short side). Loosely cast off all sts.

Work as right front piece but reversed. Do not dec for buttonholes on left band.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 34-34-36-36-38-38 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Eskimo. Work 6 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 12-13-13-12-10-11 cm, inc 1 st in each side of piece - READ INCREASE TIP! Inc like this every 8-6-6-5-5-4 cm 5-6-6-7-7-8 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 sts. When piece measures 48-47-47-46-44-43 cm, cast off for sleeve cap in each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2-3-4-4-6-7 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-54-55-55-55-55 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side before casting off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 56-56-57-57-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve the same way.

Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew side and sleeve seams in one inside 1 edge st down to where edge st were cast on (i.e. approx. 8 cm vent). Sew collar tog mid back - NOTE: Seam should be at the back so that it is not visible when collar is folded down. Sew collar along neckline in the back of neck. Sew buttons on left band.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (51)

Graciela 10.05.2020 - 23:53:

Hola todos los tejidos son con agujas circular?? Donde puedo ver un tutorial no se como hacerlo gracias

Marianne Kjærholm Elsner 03.05.2020 - 18:11:

Hvor finder jeg str. 44? vil strikke i ekstrafine merino 70 100%wool superwash pinde 5+6 er det ok til str. 44?

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 12:58:

Hei Marianne. Størrelsene som er oppgitt til denne jakken er: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL. Målskissen til jakken finner du nederst i oppskriften og der finner du cm mål, da kan du selv måle hvilken størrelse som vil passe deg best. Denne jakken er strikket i DROPS Eskimo og med pinne str. 7 og 8. Strikkefastheten og målene er tatt ut fra disse pinnemålene, bruker du mindre pinner og et tynnere garn (DROPS Merino Extra Fine) vil du få en annen jakken. mvh DROPS design

Piera 29.01.2020 - 23:21:

Buongiorno, volevo chiedere se è possibile utilizzare dei ferri diritti anzichè i ferri circolari, visto che è lavorato avanti e indietro. Grazie Piera

DROPS Design 30.01.2020 kl. 09:06:

Buongiorno Piera. Sì può usare i ferri dritti al posto dei circolari e seguire le indicazioni riportate. Buon lavoro!

Cynthia 24.01.2020 - 21:51:

Hallo, würden Sie mir einmal helfen, wie ich in Größe S bei den Armausschnitten abketten soll? Es heißt „ für die Armausschnitte beidseitig in jeder 2. R wie folgt abketten: je 3 M 0-1-1-1-1-1 x, je 2 M 1-0-1-2-3-3 x und je 1 M 1-1-2-2-2-3 x“, leider verstehe ich nicht wie das gemeint ist. Liebe Grüße, Cynthia

DROPS Design 27.01.2020 kl. 08:02:

Liebe Cynthia, Ketten Sie so ab: 3 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten 2 Reihen (1 Hin + 1 Rückreihe), 2 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten 2 Reihen, 1 Masche am Anfang der nächsten 4 Reihen. Jetzt ketten Sie 2 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten 2 Reihen bis die Arbeit 54 cm misst, dann ketten Sie 3 Maschen am Anfang nächster 2 Reihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marjan 27.09.2019 - 09:40:

Mijn vraag gaat over de mouwen: als ik 36 steken opzet wordt de mouw ontzettend wijd. Is dat wel de bedoeling? Op de foto is dat niet het geval, tenminste niet zooo wijd. Klopt het wel?

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 14:44:

Dag Marjan,

Bij een stekenverhouding van 11 steken in de breedte = 10 cm, zou je op 29 cm rondom komen en dat lijkt me een vrij normale afmeting voor dit patroon, dus ik denk niet dat er een fout in zit. Als je het te veel vindt kun je natuurlijk altijd minder steken opzetting.

Christina 22.08.2019 - 23:49:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich habe nochmals eine Frage zur Anleitung. Bei der Anleitung zum Rückenteil heisst es "Bei einer Gesamtlänge von 8 cm je 1 neue M am Ende der nächsten 2 R, d.h. beidseitig" Ebenfalls laut Anleitung sollen nach der Zunahme 2 Maschen mehr auf der Nadel sein. Wenn man die Zunahmen aber auf 2 Reihen macht komme ich auf 4 zugenommene Maschen. Was davon ist richtig? Oder habe ich etwas überlesen?

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 09:15:

Liebe Christina, nach 8 cm schlagen Sie 1 Masche am Ende der nächsten Reihe, wenden Sie und schlagen Sie 1 M am Ende der nächsten Reihe = Sie haben jetzt 1 neue Masche beidseitig zugenommen = 2 Zunahmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christina 06.08.2019 - 17:31:

Liebes Drops-Team Bei den Ärmeln heisst es "Zunahmetipp beachten", allerdings finde ich nur einen Abnahmetipp und keinen Zunahmetipp? Auch bei den Videos passend zu diesem Muster ist leider kein passendes zum Zunehmen dabei.

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 16:41:

Liebe Christina, danke für den Hinweis, ZUNAHMETIPP wird dazu geschrieben: es wird mit 1 Umschlag innerhalb 1 Randmasche beidseitig zugenommen; bei der nächsten Reihe stricken Sie die Umschläge verschränkt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Janine Chappell 22.06.2019 - 23:21:

Could this be extended longer using the pattern without adjustment, to make a longer length or a coat?

DROPS Design 23.06.2019 kl. 08:36:

Dear Janine, absolutely. Maybe start with a few more stitches and gradually decrease those at the sides between where your hip and where your waist would be, but it should woork even without those. Happy Knitting!

Sylvie Longpre 25.02.2019 - 02:26:

Bonjour,\r\nJe n\'arrive pas à faire le col châle. Est-il possible d\'avoir plus de détails quand on arrive aux points raccourcis ? Je n\'arrive pas à faire l\'arrondi.\r\nMerci !

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 11:34:

Bonjour Mme Longpre, pour le devant droit, vous commencez sur l'endroit: *2 rangs (= 1 côte mousse) sur toutes les mailles, 2 rangs (= 1 côte mousse) sur les 14 ou 16 premières mailles seulement*, répétez de *-*, pour chaque série de *-*, vous avez 4 rangs (= 2 côtes mousse) à droite, vu sur l'endroit) et 1 seule côte mousse à gauche (côté qui sera cousu le long de l'encolure dos). Bon tricot!

Janet Hahn 02.02.2019 - 01:28:

How might these changes affect the sweater’s stitch count or fit: replacing the garter-st column along the side seams with ss, or knitting fewer sts in garter? knitting the fronts & back in 1 piece until the armholes? seaming with mattress stitch?

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 09:25:

Dear Mrs Hahn, we are unfortunately not abel to adjust every pattern to each individual request, for any individual assistance please contact the store where you bought the yarn. Happy knitting!

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