DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Irish Winter

Knitted DROPS jumper with cables and vents in the side in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 172-2
DROPS design: Pattern no z-760
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
350-350-350-450-500-500 g colour no 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-150-175-200-200 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands) = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib and neck edge – or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands) = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6 – see diagram for correct size. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st P by P 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 124-130-140-150-160-174 sts on with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 4.5 mm. P 1 row from WS, then work rib as follows: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work A.5 (= 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts), A.1a (= 8 sts) 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, A.2a (= 31 sts), A.3a (= 34 sts), A.2a (= 31 sts), A.4a (= 8 sts) 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, A.6 (= 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts), 2 edge sts in garter st. Repeat the first 2 rows in diagram until piece measures 4 cm. Then work the remaining 2 rows = 106-112-118-128-138-148 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Now work pattern as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts in stocking st, A.1b (= 6 sts) 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, A.2b (= 26 sts), A.3b (= 30 sts), A.2b, A.4b (= 6 sts) 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts in stocking st, 2 edge sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 14 cm in all sizes, cast on 1 new st at the end of the next 2 rows (marks vent) = 108-114-120-130-140-150 sts. Work the new st in garter st. When piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm, cast off 2-2-3-4-4-5 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for armholes = 104-110-114-122-132-140 sts on needle. Now continue with pattern as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 4-7-3-7-12-10 sts in stocking st, pattern as before over the next 94-94-106-106-106-118 sts, 4-7-3-7-12-10 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm, dec 4 sts evenly over the middle 24 sts - READ DECREASE TIP = 100-106-110-118-128-136 sts. On next row from RS, cast off the middle 20 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 39-42-44-48-53-57 sts. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts on shoulder while dec 3 sts evenly = 36-39-41-45-50-54 sts. K 1 row from RS and cast off with K from WS. Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece. When piece measures 58-59-60-61-62-63 cm, work as follows: Work the first 45-48-50-54-59-63 sts as before, work the next 14 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts P evenly and slip these sts on a stitch holder for neck (= 10 sts on stitch holder), work the remaining sts on needle = 45-48-50-54-59-63 sts for each shoulder. Now work each shoulder separately in pattern as before. Then cast off sts on every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 39-42-44-48-53-57 sts remain for shoulder. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts on shoulder while dec 3 sts evenly = 36-39-41-45-50-54 sts. K 1 row from RS and cast off with K from WS. Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 44-44-49-49-54-54 sts (incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side) with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 4.5 mm . P 1 row from WS. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, (K 2, P 3) until 3 sts remain, K 2, 1 edge st in garter st. When rib measures 5 cm, dec 6-4-7-7-10-8 sts evenly = 38-40-42-42-44-46 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Now work in stocking st with 1 edge sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 4th row 15-14-13-10-6-4 times and on every other row 1-3-4-9-14-17 times = 70-74-76-80-84-88 sts. When piece measures 40-40-39-38-36-35 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off all sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener sts inside cast-off edge. Sew sleeves in body. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st in garter st down to vent (vent = 14 cm). Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 60-70 sts around the neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work 3 ridges and cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.06.2021
New chart A.3b (row 18, stitch 22).

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Lynne wrote:

Can you recommend a single-strand yarn to use, instead of using two strands? And the quantity of the single-strand yarn to buy? Thank you!

28.08.2023 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynne, sure, you can use any yarn from our yarn group C - read more here, scroll down to 2 strands of different meterage to 1 strand.. Happy knitting!

29.08.2023 - 09:10

country flag Kathie wrote:

This has been a very interesting pattern and the first time, for me, from charts. Love the intricate pattern design combinations. There is one stitch on Chart A3b line 26 stitch 25 that I was wondering if it should be a Purl stitch instead Knit. Thank you so much!

05.01.2022 - 05:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathie, you are right, our design team will check and edit diagram as soon as possible. Thanks for your feedback. Happy knitting!

05.01.2022 - 08:14

country flag Ariela Cohen wrote:

Can i have translation of the instructions to hebrew i dont mind paying for it

12.05.2021 - 14:57

country flag Jean Purnell wrote:

The only way I could cope was to enlarge and print out the charts and number the rows, then use a row counter. I also printed out all the charts for the initial part and payed them out in sequence. Then I used marker threads for each chart.

22.12.2020 - 10:24

country flag Erika wrote:

Hello again. I have figured out the triangle from the 9th raw. K r

14.11.2020 - 21:27

country flag Erika wrote:

Good morning. I have got a couple of questions. First one, when it says in Ab1 in tbe3rd raw "slip stitch behind, then K1,K1 from behind, isn't it supposed to be K1 and P1 from behind? Also there is no explanation A1b in the 9th raw what the full triangle means. Thank you in advance and good day.

14.11.2020 - 08:23

country flag Linda Ovens wrote:

What do the missing squares in blocks A.1a and A.2a signify ?

09.04.2020 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ovens, on next to last row on these diagrams you will decrease by purling 2 sts together, on next row (= last row), there will be 1 stitch less because of this decrease, ie in A.1a 6 sts remain and work these 6 sts as follows: P2, K1, P2, K1. Happy knitting!

14.04.2020 - 09:57

country flag Paola Lontani wrote:

Possibile che al ferro numero 18 al diagramma a b3 ci sia un errrore nella parte finale dovrebbe un risultare solo un diritto invece il diagramma ne riporta due

31.10.2019 - 08:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Paola. La ringraziamo della segnalazione che inoltriamo al settore design. Alla riga 18 ci deve essere una sola maglia a diritto e non due. Buon lavoro!

31.10.2019 - 11:52

country flag Margaret wrote:

How do you read your pattern and what is the dark section in pattern a2b

08.02.2019 - 21:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Margaret, The symbols used in diagram A.2b are described above the diagrams. So if you are working row 3 in A.2b, you start from the right side and purl 2 (from right side) or knit 2 (from wrong side), then the dark triangle which slopes up right to left means: place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1 and knit the stitch from the cable needle, then the dark triangle which slopes down from right to left means: place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1 and purl stitch on cable needle. Then continue with purl/knit 3 etc. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

09.02.2019 - 08:43

country flag Mercedes wrote:

¡hecho! me ha quedado de cine. gracias

18.01.2017 - 12:36