DROPS / 170 / 1

Market Day by DROPS Design

DROPS taška s pestrým vzorem háčkovaná z dvojité příze "Paris".

DROPS design: model č. w-599
Skupina přízí: C + C nebo E
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Rozměry:
Šířka: asi 43 cm
Výška: asi 33 cm

Materiál: DROPS PARIS firmy Garnstudio
200 g, barva č. 24, šedá
150 g, barva č. 01, lososová
100 g, barva č. 23, světlá šedá
100 g, barva č. 06, pink
100 g, barva č. 17, smetanová
50 g, barva č. 41, kari

POZN.: na jednobarevnou tašku by byla spotřeba 600 g příze Paris.

DROPS HÁČEK č. 4,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k uháčkování zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 13 DS x 6 řad dvojitou přízí = 10 x 10 cm.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

100% bavlna
od 35.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 40.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 35.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 490Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 a A.2. Schéma zobrazuje barevné rozložení vzoru. 1 čtvereček ve schématu = 1 DS dvojitou přízí.

TIP – DVOJITÁ PŘÍZE:
Přízi můžeme odvíjet jak z povrchu, tak zevnitř klubka. Při navazování nového klubka příze dbáme na to, abychom nenavazovali obě vlákna současně, ve stejném místě, ale s určitým odstupem – díky tomu nebude spoj tolik vidět.

BAREVNÝ VZOR (v kruhových řadách):
Při změně barvy příze postupujeme takto: poslední DS háčkujeme původní barvou, ale nedokončíme jej – před posledním protažením příze barvu změníme a DS dokončíme už touto novou barvou. Pak pokračujeme háčkováním dalšího DS.
Abychom se vyhnuli nepěkným přetaženým vláknům příze na rubové straně, háčkujeme vždy i kolem vlákna té barvy, již zrovna nepotřebujeme.

INFO:
První DS na začátku každé kruhové řady nahrazujeme 3 řo; každou kruhovou řadu končíme 1 pevným okem do 3. řo ze začátku kruhové řady.

TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ:
1 DS ujmeme sháčkováním 2 DS dohromady, takto:
uháčkujeme 1 DS, ale nedokončíme jej – před posledním protažením příze (= na háčku máme 2 smyčky) uháčkujeme stejným způsobem další DS a při jeho dokončování protáhneme přízi všemi 3 smyčkami na háčku.
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TAŠKA:
Háčkujeme v kruhových řadách dvojitou přízí téže barvy – viz TIP – DVOJITÁ PŘÍZE.

Háčkem č.4,5 uháčkujeme dvojitou přízí v barvě pink 5 řo a spojíme je pevným okem do kroužku. Pokračujeme v kruhových řadách dle schématu A.1 (v kruhové řadě máme 12 sekvencí vzoru) – viz BAREVNÝ VZOR.
1. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: 12 DS do kroužku z řo – viz INFO.
2. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: po 2 DS do každého DS = 24 DS.
3. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *1 DS do 1. DS, 2 DS do následujícího DS*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 36 DS.
4. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *po 1 DS do každého z prvních 2 DS, 2 DS do následujícího DS*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 48 DS.
5.-10. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: pokračujeme v přidávání a vzoru jako dosud, tj. v každé kruhové řadě uháčkujeme mezi dvěma přidáními vždy o 1 DS více = 120 DS.
11. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: uháčkujeme poslední kruhovou řadu vzoru A.1 a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně 4 DS = 116 DS.
12. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: pokračujeme v kruhových řadách, ale už bez přidávání a háčkujeme vzor A.2 (= v kruhové řadě máme 7 sekvencí vzoru), SOUČASNĚ v 1. kruhové řadě vzoru A.2 ujmeme rovnoměrně 4 DS = 112 DS. Dokončíme celou sekvenci vzoru A.2 (na výšku), pak práci ukončíme.

UCHA:
Ustřihneme si 6 vláken příze každé barvy, každé o délce 120 cm = 36 vláken. Vlákna složíme k sobě a cca 12 cm od konce uvážeme volný uzel. Pak vlákna rozdělíme do 3 pramenů po 12 a spleteme z nich cop dlouhý asi 68 cm. Konec copu rozdělíme na poloviny, které protáhneme stěnou tašky – 3. kruhovou řadou od horního okraje tašky a 1 DS od sebe. Konce copu pak na lícové straně svážeme na pevný uzel a ucho tak zajistíme. Volný uzel na začátku copu nyní rozvážeme a konec ucha připevníme ke stěně tašky stejným způsobem, jak ten protilehlý.
Stejným způsobem vyrobíme i druhé ucho - viz foto.

Schéma

= světlá šedá
= pink
= kari
= lososová
= šedá
= smetanová

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 170-1) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (90)

Annelies 12.08.2019 - 08:42:

Bedankt voor de reactie! Ik ben ondertussen al een aardig eind op weg en het gaat prima.

Annelies 28.07.2019 - 16:18:

Ik wil deze tas graag gaan maken van drops paris zoals staat aangegeven in het patroon. Het moet met een dubbele draad gemaakt worden met haaknaald 4.5 maar bij de omschrijving van het garen staat haaknaald 5 aanbevolen (bij gebruik van een enkele draad) klopt dit garen dan wel bij het patroon?

DROPS Design 11.08.2019 kl. 16:33:

Dag Annelies,

Dat klopt, maar deze tas wordt bewust met een kleinere haaknaald gemaakt, zodat het mooi strak wordt, wat geschikter is voor tassen.

Ranjan Mamania 16.07.2019 - 18:55:

Started this bag according to pattern.goes well

Nichole 22.05.2019 - 14:50:

I’m having trouble with the instructions for Round 11. Specifically the decrease of 4dc? Can you clarify the steps for this round? I’m new to tapestry crochet thank you!

DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 15:13:

Dear Nichole, on the last round in A.1 (= 11th round) you work with only one colour working 2 dc together a total of 4 thimes evenly on the round (read how to decrease evenly here). Happy crocheting!

Kuki 06.04.2019 - 14:27:

It`s beautiful, thanks to share

Nico 05.01.2019 - 06:31:

It's not clear where to attach the handles. Equidistant around the bag, that is, 7 of the top pattern repeats apart?

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 09:36:

Dear Nico, you can take inspiration from the picture to place the handles. Happy crocheting!

Mariëtte 10.07.2018 - 17:41:

Ik zou de tas graag voor een meisje van 11 willen maken en dus iets kleiner. Ipv 12 patroonherhalingen wil ik er 9 doen, maar daardoor gaat de bodem ban de tas ‘kromtrekken’. Hoe voorkom ik dit? Moet ik al in het begin meer stokjes haken of al eerder meerderen of is er en ander altrnatief? Alvast vriendelijk bedankt.

DROPS Design 11.07.2018 kl. 11:28:

Dag Mariëtte, De tas is ontworpen voor 12 herhalingen en hoe minder herhalingen je maakt, hoe krommer de tas trekt. Is het een idee om gewoon een dunner garen en naald te geberuiken, bijvoorbeeld Safran?

Sue 27.06.2018 - 02:15:

Do you have a tutorial on this bag... I’m new at crocheting ... I don’t understand when to change colors...already bought the yarn and I’m ready to go...would be so helpful ...

DROPS Design 27.06.2018 kl. 08:25:

Dear Sue, colour changes are shown in diagram - 1 square = 1 dc x 1 round. This video shows how to crochet 2 colours on the same round. Remember to follow written pattern at the same time to increase for the bottom of the bag. Happy crocheting!

Aurelia 28.05.2018 - 05:35:

Que otro tipo de estambre o lana sustituta podría usar en este patrón para no usar 2 hilos.?

DROPS Design 29.05.2018 kl. 11:33:

Hola Aurelia. Este patrón se puede trabajar con lanas del grupo E ( 1 hilo), pero en este momento en este grupo no hay ningún hilo de algodón. Tendría que ser lana 100%, como, por ejemplo, Eskimo.

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