Andes Sunrise by DROPS Design

Taška s pestrým norským vzorem háčkovaná zdola nahoru z příze DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: model č. w-768
Skupina přízí C nebo A + A
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VELIKOST:
jednotná
Rozměry: Obvod: asi 67 cm Výška: asi 34 cm

MATERIÁL:
DROPS PARIS firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí C)
150 g, barva č. 60, sléz
100 g, barva č. 17, smetanová
100 g, barva č. 41, kari
50 g, barva č. 59, starorůžová

ZKUŠEBNÍ VZOREK:
18 dlouhých sloupků na šířku a 10,5 řady na výšku = 10 x 10 cm.

HÁČEK:
DROPS HÁČEK č.3,5
Uvedená síla háčku je pouze orientační. Máte-li ve svém zkušebním vzorku více ok na 10 cm, použijte háček silnější. Pokud máte naopak méně ok na 10 cm, použijte háček slabší.

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Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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100% bavlna
od 35.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 40.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 35.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
needles Jehlice a háčky Objednat
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 280Kč. Více zde.

Návod

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VYSVĚTLIVKY:

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VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 a A.2. Schémata zobrazují barevné rozložení vzoru. 1 čtvereček ve schématu = 1 dlouhý sloupek.

BAREVNÝ VZOR – ZMĚNA BARVY (v kruhových řadách):
Při změně barvy příze postupujeme takto: poslední dlouhý sloupek háčkujeme původní barvou, ale nedokončíme jej – před posledním protažením příze barvu změníme a sloupek dokončíme už touto novou barvou. Pak pokračujeme novou barvou háčkováním dalšího dlouhého sloupku.
Abychom se vyhnuli nepěkným přetaženým vláknům příze na rubové straně, háčkujeme vždy i kolem vlákna té barvy, již zrovna nepotřebujeme – přetažená vlákna tak zůstanou schovaná a přitom budeme mít přízi vždy přesně tam, kde ji potřebujeme.

INFO:
První dlouhý sloupek na začátku každé kruhové řady nahrazujeme 3 řetízkovými oky; každou kruhovou řadu končíme 1 pevným okem do 3. řetízkového oka ze začátku kruhové řady.

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POPIS PRÁCE:

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TAŠKA – JAK BUDEME POSTUPOVAT:
Háčkujeme v kruhových řadách ode dna k hornímu okraji. Nakonec spleteme šňůru, kterou přivážeme na tašku jako ucha.

TAŠKA:
Háčkem č.3,5 uháčkujeme barvou kari 5 řetízkových ok a spojíme je pevným okem do kroužku. Pak postupujeme podle schématu A.1 (v kruhové řadě máme 12 sekvencí vzoru A.1) – viz BAREVNÝ VZOR.
Háčkujeme tedy takto:
1. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: kolem kroužku z řetízkových ok uháčkujeme 12 dlouhých sloupků - viz INFO.
2. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: 2 dlouhé sloupky do každého dlouhého sloupku = 24 dlouhých sloupků.
3. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *1 dlouhý sloupek do prvního dlouhého sloupku, 2 dlouhé sloupky do následujícího dlouhého sloupku*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 36 dlouhých sloupků.
4. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *po 1 dlouhém sloupku do každého z prvních 2 dlouhých sloupků, 2 dlouhé sloupky do následujícího dlouhého sloupku*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 48 dlouhých sloupků.
5.-10. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: takto pokračujeme v háčkování vzoru a přidávání, tj. v každé kruhové řadě uháčkujeme mezi dvěma přidáními vždy o 1 dlouhý sloupek více. Po dokončení celé sekvence vzoru A.1 (na výšku) máme v kruhové řadě 120 dlouhých sloupků.
11. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: háčkujeme v kruhových řadách vzor A.2 (v kruhové řadě máme 12 sekvencí vzoru po 10 dlouhých sloupcích). Pokračujeme v háčkování vzoru, ale už nepřidáváme. Kruhovou řadu označenou ve schématu A.2 šipkou háčkujeme následovně: *po 1 dlouhém sloupku do každého z prvních/dalších 3 dlouhých sloupků, 1 řetízkové oko, 1 dlouhý sloupek vynecháme*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady. Po dokončení celé sekvence vzoru A.2 (na výšku) práci ukončíme.
Taška měří asi 34 cm (od středu dna).

UCHA:
Ustřihneme si 18 vláken příze v barvě sléz a 18 vláken starorůžové (každé vlákno o délce asi 120 cm) = 36 vláken. Vlákna složíme k sobě a cca 12 cm od konce uvážeme volný uzel. Pak vlákna rozdělíme do 3 pramenů po 12 a spleteme z nich cop dlouhý asi 68 cm. Konec copu rozdělíme na poloviny, které protáhneme stěnou tašky v kruhové řadě s dírkami, 3 dlouhé sloupky od sebe. Konce copu pak na lícové straně svážeme na pevný uzel. Volný uzel na začátku copu nyní rozvážeme a konec ucha připevníme ke stěně tašky na druhém konci stejným způsobem, asi 22 cm od prvního uzlu.
Potom vyrobíme stejným způsobem druhé spletené ucho a přivážeme je k protilehlé stěně tašky – viz foto.

Schéma

symbols = smetanová
symbols = kari
symbols = starorůžová
symbols = sléz
diagram
diagram

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 201-16) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

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Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (8)

country flag Irene wrote:

Kunt u aangeven wat er wordt bedoeld met 1 stokje tussen de meerderingen toer 5-10. Het kleurenpatroon klopt dan toch niet meer want je krijgt meer stokjes?

01.02.2021 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Irene,

In A.1 wordt er gemeerderd van 1 naar 10 steken. Je ziet ook in A.1 dat er op elke toer een steek bij komt aan de linkerkant. Dit kun je gewoon blijven volgen. Omdat je A.1 12 keer herhaalt en de rondte, komen er dus 12 steken bij, totdat je in totaal op 120 steken zit (12 herhalingen van 10 steken).

06.02.2021 kl. 12:03

country flag Irene wrote:

Ik heb net een vraag gestuurd en is opeens niet meer zichtbaar?

01.02.2021 - 17:55

country flag Monik wrote:

Porfavor tutorial soy principiante necesito entender grafico. Gracias

28.07.2020 - 04:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Monik. Tienes vídeos bajo el patrón que te pueden ayudar a realizar la labor. También te recomendamos leer el siguiente tutorial: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=69&cid=23 para aprender a interpretar el diagrama para ganchillo.

02.08.2020 kl. 20:31

country flag Sophie wrote:

Bonjour je voulais savoir si on doit fermer chaque tour avec une maille coulée ou crocheter en rond. A mon avis ça doit être avec maille coulée ma je ne suis pas certaine.

22.04.2020 - 15:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sophie, tout à fait, comme indiqué sous INFO CROCHET au début des explications, chaque tour commence par 3 mailles en l'air (= ces mailles en l'air remplacent la 1ère bride) et chaque tour se termine par 1 maille coulée dans la 3ème maille en l'air du début du tour. Bon crochet!

22.04.2020 kl. 15:41

country flag Julie wrote:

Is the yarn amount for colour 59 old light pink correct? Or should it be the same amount as the mauve colour 60? As having made this I've definitely used more old pink than mauve.

12.05.2019 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julie, thanks for the feedback, a correction will be made. Happy crocheting!

15.05.2019 kl. 11:09

country flag Sosso wrote:

Tutto chiaro grazie per ora!

15.04.2019 - 19:56

country flag Sosso wrote:

Buongiorno! Nei giri 5-10 cosa significa ‘lavorare una maglia alta in più tra gli aumenti’? Se ad ogni giro per 6 giri (giro 5,6,7,8,9,10) aumento di 24 punti al giro n. 11 avrò 192 maglie totale. Inoltre l’aumento in più in corrispondenza di quale punto deve essere inserito per non rovinare la simmetria del motivo? Grazie mille

15.04.2019 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Sosso. P.es al giro 5 lavora: 1 m.alta in ognuna delle prime 3 m.alte, 2 m.alte nella maglia successiva e così su tutto il giro; al giro 6: 1 m.alta in ognuna delle prime 4 m.alte, 2 m.alte nella m successiva. E così via. Il diagramma A.1 viene ripetuto 12 volte sul giro; ad ogni giro aumenta 12 m; quindi negli ultimi 6 giri aumenta 12x6= 72 m, arrivando così a 120 m. Buon lavoro!

15.04.2019 kl. 11:36

country flag Babs wrote:

"Zagg-Bag"

23.01.2019 - 17:16

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