DROPS / 170 / 24

Holiday Bliss by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top in garter st with lace pattern and vent mid back in ”Cotton Light”. Worked top down. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cl-059
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color no 02, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 1 piece for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st (marker is between these 2 sts), 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new sts in stockinette st.

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for 1 buttonhole on left back piece at the top in vent mid back when piece measures 1½ cm / ½'' as follows: K tog 3rd and 4th st from edge and make 1 YO.
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TOP:
First worked back and forth on needle in parts, then work pattern in the round. The piece is worked top down.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Cast on 10-12-12-13-13-14 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Light. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Remember BUTTONHOLE - see explanation above. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', inc for armhole as follows from RS: Work 3 sts in garter st, 1 YO (= 1 st inc) – READ INCREASE TIP-1, work in garter st over the remaining 7-9-9-10-10-11 sts and cast on 1 new st for neck at the end of row. Work 1 row. At the end of the next row from RS, cast on 14-15-15-16-16-17 new sts for neck = 26-29-29-31-31-33 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Then continue inc for armhole AT THE SAME TIME dec and inc for vent mid back as follows:
ARMHOLE:
Repeat inc for armhole every 4th row 10-12-13-11-6-6 more times and then every other row 7-5-6-12-24-26 times.
VENT MID BACK:
Dec for vent as follows (from RS): Work until 5 sts remain, K 2 tog, work 3 sts in garter st. Repeat this dec every 4th row 3 more times. Then when piece measures 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm / 3½''-4''-4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5½'' from the new sts cast on for neck, inc as follows (from RS): Work until 3 sts, 1 YO, work 3 sts in garter st. K YO twisted on next row to avoid hole. Repeat inc every 4th row 3 more times. When all inc for armholes are done, there are 43-46-48-54-61-65 sts on left back piece. Work last row from RS. Piece measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''. Put piece aside and knit right back piece.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as left back piece but reversed. I.e. inc for armhole inside 3 sts in garter st at the end of row from RS and cast on for neck at the end of row from WS. When all inc are done there are 43-46-48-54-61-65 sts on right back piece. Adjust according to left back piece. Work last row from RS, cast on 3-4-5-6-6-6 sts at the end of this row, turn piece and work as follows from WS: Work in garter st over the new 3-4-5-6-6-6 sts, in garter st over the 43-46-48-54-61-65 sts from right back piece, cast on 1-0-1-1-1-0 new sts, then work in garter sts over the next 43-46-48-54-61-65 sts from left back piece from WS, cast on 3-4-5-6-6-6 sts at the end of row. There are now 93-100-107-121-135-142 sts on back piece. Continue in garter st until piece measures 24-25-27-28-30-31 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"-10½"-11"-11 3/4"-12 1/4" from shoulder – adjust so that the last row is worked from WS. Slip all sts on a stitch holder and work the front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Left shoulder:
Cast on 10-12-12-13-13-14 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Light. Work in garter st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', work as follows on next row from RS: Work until 3 sts, 1 YO (= 1 st inc), work 3 sts in garter st.
Now continue inc for armhole the same way as on right back piece, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-8-10-10-12-12 cm / 3"-3"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" - adjust so that last row is worked from WS, slip sts on a stitch holder and work right shoulder.

Right shoulder:
Cast on and work as left shoulder but reversed. Inc sts for armhole the same way as on left back piece (i.e. inside 3 sts in garter st at beg of row from RS).

When piece measures 8-8-10-10-12-12 cm / 3"-3"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4", cast on 31-32-33-35-35-36 sts for neck at the end of row from RS, then work sts from stitch holder (= left shoulder) on to needle. Continue back and forth in garter st. NOTE: Continue inc for armhole as before. When all inc for armholes are done, there are 87-92-97-109-123-130 sts on needle. Adjust so that last row is from WS, cast on 3-4-5-6-6-6 sts at the end of row, turn and K over all sts, cast on 3-4-5-6-6-6 sts at the end of row = 93-100-107-121-135-142 sts on front piece. Piece measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''. Continue in garter st until piece measures 24-25-27-28-30-31 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"-10½"-11"-11 3/4"-12 1/4" from shoulder – adjust according to back piece (last row is worked from WS).

BODY:
Now work in the round. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work as follows from RS: K the 93-100-107-121-135-142 sts on front piece, then work sts from stitch holder on back piece on to same circular needle = 186-200-214-242-270-284 sts on needle. Insert a marker in transition between front and back piece (= 93-100-107-121-135-142 sts between each marker). First marker is beg of round. K 1 round. Then work pattern as follows: 1 st in stockinette st, work A.1 (= 7 sts) 13-14-15-17-19-20 times in width, 1 st in stockinette st, (marker is here), 1 st in stockinette st, A.1 13-14-15-17-19-20 times in width, 1 st in stockinette st. Continue as follows. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side of piece - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3½-3-2½-3½-4-3 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-1 1/4"-1½"-1 1/8" 7-8-9-7-6-9 more times = 218-236-254-274-298-324 sts. When piece measures 31-32-32-33-33-34 cm / 12 1/4"-12½"-12½"-13"-13"-13½" (adjust to finish nicely according to pattern), switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Bind off. The whole piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew tog ridges under each armhole in outer loops of edge sts (= side seams). Sew on button at the top of vent on right back piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Mary 03.06.2020 - 19:21:

Sorry maybe I wasn’t very clear. Left back piece..”cast 14 sts for the neck. Dec for vent as follows...” I understand the buttonhole is when piece measures 1,5cm but my question is if I start the dec after making the buttonhole or immediately after the 14 sts cast on . I hope is clear now . Thanks

DROPS Design 04.06.2020 kl. 08:34:

Dear Mary, the buttonhole should be worked after you have worked 1,5 cm after the 14 new sts cast on: cast on the 14 new sts, increase for armhole and decrease for vent and when piece measures 1,5 cm from the new 14 st cast on, knit the buttonhole. Happy knitting!

Mary 03.06.2020 - 13:46:

Sorry , buttonhole

Mary 03.06.2020 - 13:42:

Hello, should I start the decreasing for the neck immediately after the cast on or after making the butter hole ? Please give me how many rows should I work before start dec for neck. Thank you

DROPS Design 03.06.2020 kl. 15:57:

Dear Mary, the buttonhole is worked on the left back piece, when piece measures 1,5 cm - see BUTTONHOLE. Happy knitting!

Karen 22.04.2020 - 13:54:

Good day, I was wondering why the pattern does not switch to a circular needle after the last increase for the armholes? Would this not alleviate the need for assembly under each arm hole? Am I missing something?

DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 14:13:

Dear Karen, the whole section in garter stitch is worked with smaller needle - you will change to larger needle when working body (then again switch to smaller needles for the 2 ridges at the bottom edge). Happy knitting!

Ribault Martine 09.04.2020 - 22:17:

Bonjour, j'envisage de réaliser ce modèle de top, point mousse et ajouré. Le fil de coton recommandé pour ce modèle est Cotton light 50 % coton, 50 % polyester. Ce fil n'ai pas proposé par la boutique "laine et soie" de Vence (06). Peut être que ce fil n'est plus commercialisé. Si tel est le cas par fil puis-je le remplacer ?? Je vous remercie de bien vouloir me répondre. Cdlt.

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 10:02:

Bonjour Mme Ribault, vous pouvez réaliser ce fil soit en Cotton Light soit avec un autre fil du groupe B, essayez notre convertisseur si besoin, et surtout, n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS qui pourra vous renseigner sur ses réelles disponibilités. Bon tricot!

Lone 22.05.2019 - 21:16:

Sød top, som jeg vil prøve at strikke. Jeg vil dog gerne ha mindre ærmegab, således at udtagning til ærme starter før. Har I et tip til hvordan jeg gør?

DROPS Design 23.05.2019 kl. 07:33:

Hei Lone. Ja dette er en flott modell. Om du vil ha mindre ermhull kan du enten øke fler ganger hver 2. pinne, og ferre ganger hver 4. pinne. Eventuelt kan du vurdere om du vil øke 2 masker isteden for 1 over de siste økningene. Nå vet ikke jeg hvilken størrelse du strikker eller hvor mye mindre du ønsker ermhullet, men du kan regne sammen hvor mange omganger økningene går over. Dette kan sammenlignes med hvor mange omganger du ønsker at ermhullet skal strikkes over, og så avgjøre om det holder å øke oftere, eller om du vil øke fler masker. Prøv deg frem. God fornøyelse

Rita 31.03.2019 - 22:52:

Scusate...non riesco a capire ma l’asola mi viene direttamente sopra lo scalfo...nella parte dx del lavoro...e quelle 14 maglie avviate per il collo sono a sx ...su queste maglie devo lavorare lo spacco?....io non capisco proprio in che modo incominciare...paragonando il mio lavoro all’immagine viene completamente diversa....

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 08:56:

Buongiorno Rita. Gli aumenti per lo scalfo vanno fatti all'inizio del ferro sul diritto del lavoro (dopo le 3 m legaccio). Gli aumenti per lo scollo sono alla fine del ferro, sul diritto del lavoro. L'asola va fatta anche lei alla fine del ferro sul diritto del lavoro. Più avanti le diminuzioni e gli aumenti per lo spacco (l'apertura al centro sul dietro) verranno fatti alla fine del ferro sul diritto del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

Rita 31.03.2019 - 11:17:

Ho incominciato tre volte il dietro sinistro e non riesco a capire dove sto sbagliando...quando faccio l’asola...lavoro la terza e quarta maglia insieme dal bordo....ma bordo dx o sx... Provo a rivedere il percorso dall’ inizio per capire dove sbaglio...le spiegazioni per il dietro sinistro le trovo complicate...grazie

DROPS Design 31.03.2019 kl. 15:35:

Buongiorno Rita. Deve aprire l'asola sul bordo più vicino al centro della schiena. Buon lavoro!

Grandet 30.03.2019 - 16:28:

Bonjour, je voudrais vous poser ma deuxième question : comment faire pour que le passage à l'augmentation pour l'encolure soit joli (entre le tricot et les nouvelles 14 mailles montées) ? Un grand merci.

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 12:25:

Bonjour Mme Grandet, cette vidéo montre comment monter des mailles sur le côté, veillez à bien avoir la même tension lorsque vous montez ces nouvelles mailles pour que l'arrondi soit plus joli. Vous pourrez éventuellement terminer par une petite bordure au crochet si besoin (type 1 ms, 1 ou plusieurs ml) le long de l'encolure pour ajouter une bordure de finition. Bon tricot!

Grander 30.03.2019 - 16:18:

Bonjour, je viens de commencer ce tricot et il me semble que la boutonnière ne doit pas se trouver à 1,5 du du début de l'ouvrage mais là où commence l'encolure. Ou bien, je ne lis pas bien l'explication ? Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 12:23:

Bonjour Mme Grander, le top se tricote de haut en bas, on va ouvrir la boutonnière à 1,5 cm sur le demi-dos gauche côté encolure (mesurez à partir des mailles montées pour l'encolure, pas à partir du rang de montage de l'épaule). Bon tricot!

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