DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Alpaca Party
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 167
  6. 36

Crayons

Knitted DROPS jumper worked diagonally in garter st with stripes and domino squares in ”Fabel” or "Flora". Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 167-36
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-336
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color no 623, rose mist
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color no 100, off white

Or use:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 1, pink
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

More like this:
Women Jumpers Striped Jumpersa-shape assembly free diagonal-knit domino garter stitch sewn in sleeves stripes top down v-neck
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (81)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
FABEL:
Cast on with different color so that stripes fit vertically.
In size S-M-L-XXXL cast on with off white.
In size XL-XXL cast on with rose mist/pink.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

STRIPES:
Work stripes in the different sizes as follows:
SIZE S-M-L-XXXL:
1 ridge (work first round/row K) with off white.
1 ridge rose mist/pink.
SIZE XL-XXL:
1 ridge (work first round/row K) with rose mist/pink.
1 ridge in off white.

DOMINO SQUARE:
SIZE S-M-L-XL:
ROUND 1: P all sts.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 YO before 1st-3rd-4th-6th marker and 1 YO after 1st-2nd-4th-5th marker (= 8 sts inc on round).
ROUND 3 (and all uneven numbered rounds): P all sts, do not work YOs twisted; they should make holes.
ROUND 4: Inc 2 YOs on each side of 1st and 4th marker (= front and back piece) as follows: Work until 1 st remains before st with marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO (= 8 sts inc on back and front piece).
ROUND 6: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 8: Inc 1 YO on each side of 1st and 4th marker as follows: Work until st with marker, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO.
ROUND 10: Work as 2nd round.

SIZE XXL-XXXL:
ROUND 1: P all sts.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 YO before 1st-3rd-4th-6th marker and 1 YO after 1st-2nd-4th-5th marker (= 8 sts inc on round).
ROUND 3 (and all uneven numbered rounds): P all sts, do not work YOs twisted; they should make holes.
ROUND 4: Inc 2 YOs on each side of 1st and 4th marker (= front and back piece) as follows: Work until 1 st remains before st with marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO (= 8 sts inc on back and front piece).
ROUND 6: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 8: Work as 4th round.
ROUND 10: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 12: Work as 2nd round.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Dec on each side of marker as follows: Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

MEASURING TIP:
All measurements on sleeves are done when piece is held up, sleeves will be somewhat longer when used and it is therefore important not to make them too long.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
First worked back and forth, then in the round from top down. When yoke has been worked, work a bottom edge back and forth. Work entire piece in STRIPES - see explanation above.

YOKE:
Work first back and forth as follows:
Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Fabel - see explanation above. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work as follows from RS: 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO, 1 st in garter st (insert 1 marker in this st), 1 YO, 1 st in garter st (= mid st, insert 1 marker in this st), 1 YO, 1 st in garter st (insert 1 marker in this st), 1 YO, 2 sts in garter st (= 4 sts inc) = 11 sts. Repeat inc on each side of mid st and inside 2 edge sts in garter st in each side of piece on every row from RS 5-7-7-8-8-9 more times = 31-39-39-43-43-47 sts (= 13-17-17-19-19-21 sts between mid st and markers in each side). K 1 row from WS.
K 1 row from RS as follows: Work in garter st until mid st AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-0-0-1-1-1 st, 1 YO, 1 st in garter st (= mid st), 1 YO, work in garter st the rest of row AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-0-0-1-1-1 st, cast on 73-81-81-87-87-91 loose sts (= sleeves and front piece) at the end of row (= 2-2-2-4-4-4 sts inc) = 106-122-122-134-134-142 sts. Join piece tog and work the next 2 sts in garter st, round is displaced to that next round beg here.

Now work in the round in GARTER ST - see explanation above and stripes as before as follows: P first rnd.
Work next round as follows: Work 14-18-18-21-21-23 sts and inc 0-0-4-0-2-7 sts evenly (= half back piece), 1 YO, insert 1st marker in next st, 1 YO, work 14-18-18-21-21-23 and inc 0-0-4-0-2-7 sts evenly (= half back piece), 1 YO, insert 2nd marker in next st, work 22 sts in garter st and inc 0-0-2-2-0-0 sts evenly, insert 3rd marker in next st, 1 YO, work 14-18-18-21-21-23 sts and inc 0-0-4-0-2-7 sts evenly (= half front piece), 1 YO, insert 4th marker in next st, 1 YO, work 14-18-18-21-21-23 sts and inc 0-0-4-0-2-7 sts evenly (= half front piece), 1 YO, insert 5th marker in next st, work 22 sts in garter st and inc 0-0-2-2-0-0 sts evenly, insert 6th marker in next st, 1 YO = 114-130-150-146-150-178 sts. Work DOMINO SQUARE – see explanation above, beg to work 3rd round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
Work 3rd to 10th-10th-10th-10th-12th-12th round 1 time, then repeat 1st to 10th-10th-10th-10th-12th-12th round 7-7-8-8-7-7 times in total. Then work the first 0-6-0-4-4-8 rounds 1 more times = 62-70-76-78-90-100 sts between 1st and 2nd marker/3rd and 4th marker/4th and 5th marker/6th and 7th marker (= front/back piece), 1 st with each of markers (= 6 sts), 70-74-78-80-88-90 sts between 2nd and 3rd marker/5th and 6th marker (= sleeves) = 394-434-466-478-542-586 sts in total. Piece now measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9'' measured along the shoulder.

Work next round as follows: Continue with garter st and stripes as before. Work the first 2 sts tog, work in garter st until 1st marker, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO, work in garter st until 2 sts remain before 2nd marker, work 2 sts tog, slip the next 72-76-80-82-90-92 sts (includes sts with 2nd and 3rd marker) on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts), work 2 sts tog, work in garter st until 4th marker, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO, work in garter st until 2 sts remain before 5th marker, work 2 sts tog, insert the next 72-76-80-82-90-92 sts (includes sts with 5th and 6th marker) on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts), work in garter st the rest of round = 266-298-322-338-386-426 sts.

SIZE S-M-L:
ROUND 1 (= all uneven numbered rounds): P all sts, do not work YOs twisted; they should make holes.
ROUND 2: Continue with stripes and in garter st as before, work until 1st marker (= mid back), 1 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO (= 2 sts inc), work until 4 sts remain before marker under sleeve, K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), work until 4th marker (= mid front), 1 YO (= 1 st inc), K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO (= 1 st inc), work until 4 sts remain before marker under sleeve, K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), work the rest of round.
ROUND 4: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 6: Work until 1st marker (= mid back), 1, YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO (= 2 sts inc), work until 6 sts remain before marker under sleeve, * K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 sts dec), work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), * K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 1 more times (= 2 sts dec), work until 4th marker (= mid front), 1 YO (= 1 st inc), K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO (= 1 st inc), work until 6 sts remain before marker under sleeve, * K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 sts dec), work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), * K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 sts dec), work the rest of round (= 4 sts dec in total on round).
Repeat 1st-6th round 4 times in total = 250-282-306 sts.

ALL SIZES:
= 250-282-306-338-386-426 sts. Leave sts on circular needle. They should be worked tog with an edge worked from side to side. Displace sts so that st with 1st marker is beg of round.

KNIT TOGETHER:
Now work from mid back, left back piece to the side, left front piece to mid, right front piece to right side then back right piece. Cast on 34-28-20-20-20-20 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with off white. Now work back and forth as follows:

LEFT BACK PIECE (bottom edge):
Piece should now be worked tog with sts from needle from 1st marker and to marker under sleeve, from mid back on tip of domino to the left side.

ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO and K rest of row (= 1 st inc).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, do not work YOs twisted on this row, they should make holes, slip the first 2 sts from yoke back on needle, K 3 tog.
Switch to rose mist/pink.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO and K rest of row (= 1 st inc).
ROW 4 (= WS): K until 6 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 5 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K until 4 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 7 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, slip the first 2 sts from yoke back on needle, K 3 tog.
Switch to off white.
Repeat 1st-8th row until all sts before marker in the side (= left back piece) is worked tog with edge.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (bottom edge):
Piece is worked tog with sts from half front piece, i.e. from marker in the side and down to tip of domino mid front.

ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 2 twisted tog, K 2 twisted tog, K the rest of row (= 1 st dec).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, do not work YOs twisted on this row, they should make holes, slip the first 2 sts from yoke back on needle, K 3 tog.
Switch to rose mist/pink.
ROW 3 (= RS): As 1st row.
ROW 4 (= WS): K until 6 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 5 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K until 4 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 7 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, slip the first 2 sts from yoke back on needle, K 3 tog.
Switch to off white.
Repeat 1st-8th row down to tip mid front, on last repetition of 8th or 2nd row slip the first 3 sts from stitch holder back on needle, K 4 tog.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (bottom edge):
Piece is worked tog with sts from the tip of domino mid front and up to the marker in the right side. Work as left back piece.

RIGHT BACK PIECE (bottom edge):
Work piece tog with sts from the side i.e. marker, to mid back i.e. tip of domino. Work as left front piece. Bind off when all sts from yoke have been worked tog with edge, adjust so that last stripe is with rose mist/pink.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles in GARTER ST - see explanation above and stripes. Slip sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 = 72-76-80-82-90-92 sts. Cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts at the end of first round = 80-84-88-94-102-104 sts. Then work stripes. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts (= mid under sleeve) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE - READ MEASURING TIP. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 st on each side of marker (= 2 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every 1 cm / 3/8'' 6-6-10-12-17-17 times, then every 2 cm / 3/4'' 4-5-2-2-0-0 times = 60-62-64-66-68-70 sts. Bind off when piece measures 23 cm / 9''. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew cast-on edge tog (i.e. the first 7 sts).

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 31.03.2016
Correction: DOMINO SQUARE:
SIZE S-M-L-XL and XXL-XXXL:
ROUND 1: P all sts.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 YO before 1st-3rd-4th-6th marker and 1 YO after 1st-2nd-4th-5th marker (= 8 sts inc on round).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = this is on an approx. measurement, measurement depend on how many rows are worked on bottom edge
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

related pattern

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 167-36

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (81)

country flag Gitte Møller wrote:

Syntes det er en utrolig flot bluse. Har købt garn men forstår overhovedet ikke opskriften desværre

14.03.2024 - 14:47

country flag Marianne Lind wrote:

Jeg har strikket denne bluse i Drops Fabel og den ligner bestemt også den på billedet dog har jeg problemer med at nederste kant ruller indad, det ser bestemt ikke godt ud, jeg har prøvet at dampe/presse den, men alligevel sker det. Rigtig ærgerligt, at have lavet et stort arbejde og så ikke at kunne bruge blusen. Jeg kan ikke se der står noget om afslutningskant - så, hvad gør jeg?

05.01.2024 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, er det på ærmerne? Du kan evt prøve at strikke en lille ribkant... Vi har presset den så den ikke ruller - prøv en gang til :)

11.01.2024 - 14:18

country flag Britt Bisgaard wrote:

Vær opmærksom på at der i opskriften ikke er beskrevet ryg og forstykke for de store størrelser. Jeg har strikket som en str. L de 6 omg. x4 med tilpasset indtagninger så maskeantallet bibeholdes og så yderligere de 6 omg. x2, så passer længden også til en XL. Man skal være erfaren strikker til denne opskrift.

20.08.2023 - 09:56

country flag Britt Bisgaard wrote:

Jeg har lige modtaget svar på spørgsmål om, hvordan man strikker videre under bærestykket i str. XL og hele afsnittet mangler for de store størrelser også i den norske udgave. Der kommer til at mangle adskillige omgange og cm inden man kan fortsætte med kanten... Så svaret er noget sludder!

14.08.2023 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Britt, opskriften stemmer, du har 338 m i XL når du starter sammenstrik som står beskrevet under alle størrelse. Du kan også se i måleskitsen at det sammenstrikkede starter tidligere i de største størrelser - MEN det er VIGTIGT at du holder strikkefastheden med 23 m og 45 pinde i højden på 10 cm ellers vil målene ikke stemme med måleskitsen !

16.08.2023 - 11:39

country flag Britt Bisgaard wrote:

På side 3 er en beskrivelse for str. S-M-L når der er delt til ærmer. Men hvordan strikker jeg videre i str. XL?

11.08.2023 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Britt. Da starter du på teksten: ALLE STR: mvh DROPS Design

14.08.2023 - 14:35

country flag Lone Nauta Beck wrote:

Bærestykket str M: Efter 1. om. vrang er der opdeling af maskerne til forstykker og ryg. Fordelingen af maskerne på ryk og forstykker passer ikke. 18+18+22+18+18+22= 116 masker og jeg har 122 som jeg også skal have iflg. opskriften. Med l¨om maskerne ender jeg på 124 m og ikke 130 som i opskriften.

14.08.2022 - 10:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lone. Har du glemt å telle med maskene du har satt merkene i, 6 merker i 6 masker? Da blir det 18 + 21 (=1 kast + 1 maske med 1. merke + 1 kast + 18) + 44 (= 1 kast + 1 maske med 2. merke + 22 + 1 maske med 3. merke + 1 kast + 18) + 21 (= 1 kast + 1 maske med 4.merke + 1 kast + 18) + 26 (=1 kast + maske med 5. merke + 22 + maske med 6. merke i +1 kast). Litt mer oversiktelig: 18+21+44+21+26= 130 masker. mvh DROPS Design

15.08.2022 - 11:51

country flag Cynthia wrote:

Ik begrijp de uitleg niet hoe ik aan het linkerachterand moet beginnen. Kan ik daar ergens een filmpje van terugzien?

19.03.2022 - 18:46

country flag Susanne Rofner wrote:

Nach Stilllegung der Ärmel ist mein Rundenbeginn direkt nach den neu angeschlagenen Seitenmaschen. Wenn ich Rd 1-6 die Abnahmen vor und nach den mittleren Seitenmaschen mache komme ich in die nächste Runde. Ich finde keinen Hinweis dass der Rundenbeginn versetzt wird? Herzlichen Dank

22.08.2021 - 18:23

country flag Aase Jensen wrote:

I skriver jeg har fået hjælp. Men jeg forstår det stadig ikke. Har i virkelig ikke en video, som viser hvordan man gør? Det kan ikke passe jeg er den eneste der ikke kan finde ud af forklaringen.

11.03.2021 - 00:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aase, jo det er samme princip som kanten på denne model- se video: Nederste kant i dominotrøjen

11.03.2021 - 09:32

country flag Aase Jensen wrote:

Jeg forstår simpelthen ikke hvordan jeg strikker det sammen. Fortsætter jeg rundt, eller vender jeg ved sidemarkeringen? Starter jeg med at strikke de ny opslåede masker? Er der ikke en video hvor jeg kan se det? Jeg dynes forklaringen er komplet uforståelig. M. V. H. Aase

09.03.2021 - 10:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aase, vi kan se at du har fået hjælp i DROPS Workshop på Facebook :)

10.03.2021 - 15:50

Crayons


Knitted DROPS jumper worked diagonally in garter st with stripes and domino squares in ”Fabel” or "Flora". Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 167-36
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-336
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color no 623, rose mist
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color no 100, off white

Or use:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 1, pink
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

FABEL:
Cast on with different color so that stripes fit vertically.
In size S-M-L-XXXL cast on with off white.
In size XL-XXL cast on with rose mist/pink.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

STRIPES:
Work stripes in the different sizes as follows:
SIZE S-M-L-XXXL:
1 ridge (work first round/row K) with off white.
1 ridge rose mist/pink.
SIZE XL-XXL:
1 ridge (work first round/row K) with rose mist/pink.
1 ridge in off white.

DOMINO SQUARE:
SIZE S-M-L-XL:
ROUND 1: P all sts.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 YO before 1st-3rd-4th-6th marker and 1 YO after 1st-2nd-4th-5th marker (= 8 sts inc on round).
ROUND 3 (and all uneven numbered rounds): P all sts, do not work YOs twisted; they should make holes.
ROUND 4: Inc 2 YOs on each side of 1st and 4th marker (= front and back piece) as follows: Work until 1 st remains before st with marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO (= 8 sts inc on back and front piece).
ROUND 6: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 8: Inc 1 YO on each side of 1st and 4th marker as follows: Work until st with marker, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO.
ROUND 10: Work as 2nd round.

SIZE XXL-XXXL:
ROUND 1: P all sts.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 YO before 1st-3rd-4th-6th marker and 1 YO after 1st-2nd-4th-5th marker (= 8 sts inc on round).
ROUND 3 (and all uneven numbered rounds): P all sts, do not work YOs twisted; they should make holes.
ROUND 4: Inc 2 YOs on each side of 1st and 4th marker (= front and back piece) as follows: Work until 1 st remains before st with marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO (= 8 sts inc on back and front piece).
ROUND 6: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 8: Work as 4th round.
ROUND 10: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 12: Work as 2nd round.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Dec on each side of marker as follows: Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

MEASURING TIP:
All measurements on sleeves are done when piece is held up, sleeves will be somewhat longer when used and it is therefore important not to make them too long.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
First worked back and forth, then in the round from top down. When yoke has been worked, work a bottom edge back and forth. Work entire piece in STRIPES - see explanation above.

YOKE:
Work first back and forth as follows:
Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Fabel - see explanation above. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work as follows from RS: 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO, 1 st in garter st (insert 1 marker in this st), 1 YO, 1 st in garter st (= mid st, insert 1 marker in this st), 1 YO, 1 st in garter st (insert 1 marker in this st), 1 YO, 2 sts in garter st (= 4 sts inc) = 11 sts. Repeat inc on each side of mid st and inside 2 edge sts in garter st in each side of piece on every row from RS 5-7-7-8-8-9 more times = 31-39-39-43-43-47 sts (= 13-17-17-19-19-21 sts between mid st and markers in each side). K 1 row from WS.
K 1 row from RS as follows: Work in garter st until mid st AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-0-0-1-1-1 st, 1 YO, 1 st in garter st (= mid st), 1 YO, work in garter st the rest of row AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-0-0-1-1-1 st, cast on 73-81-81-87-87-91 loose sts (= sleeves and front piece) at the end of row (= 2-2-2-4-4-4 sts inc) = 106-122-122-134-134-142 sts. Join piece tog and work the next 2 sts in garter st, round is displaced to that next round beg here.

Now work in the round in GARTER ST - see explanation above and stripes as before as follows: P first rnd.
Work next round as follows: Work 14-18-18-21-21-23 sts and inc 0-0-4-0-2-7 sts evenly (= half back piece), 1 YO, insert 1st marker in next st, 1 YO, work 14-18-18-21-21-23 and inc 0-0-4-0-2-7 sts evenly (= half back piece), 1 YO, insert 2nd marker in next st, work 22 sts in garter st and inc 0-0-2-2-0-0 sts evenly, insert 3rd marker in next st, 1 YO, work 14-18-18-21-21-23 sts and inc 0-0-4-0-2-7 sts evenly (= half front piece), 1 YO, insert 4th marker in next st, 1 YO, work 14-18-18-21-21-23 sts and inc 0-0-4-0-2-7 sts evenly (= half front piece), 1 YO, insert 5th marker in next st, work 22 sts in garter st and inc 0-0-2-2-0-0 sts evenly, insert 6th marker in next st, 1 YO = 114-130-150-146-150-178 sts. Work DOMINO SQUARE – see explanation above, beg to work 3rd round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
Work 3rd to 10th-10th-10th-10th-12th-12th round 1 time, then repeat 1st to 10th-10th-10th-10th-12th-12th round 7-7-8-8-7-7 times in total. Then work the first 0-6-0-4-4-8 rounds 1 more times = 62-70-76-78-90-100 sts between 1st and 2nd marker/3rd and 4th marker/4th and 5th marker/6th and 7th marker (= front/back piece), 1 st with each of markers (= 6 sts), 70-74-78-80-88-90 sts between 2nd and 3rd marker/5th and 6th marker (= sleeves) = 394-434-466-478-542-586 sts in total. Piece now measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9'' measured along the shoulder.

Work next round as follows: Continue with garter st and stripes as before. Work the first 2 sts tog, work in garter st until 1st marker, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO, work in garter st until 2 sts remain before 2nd marker, work 2 sts tog, slip the next 72-76-80-82-90-92 sts (includes sts with 2nd and 3rd marker) on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts), work 2 sts tog, work in garter st until 4th marker, 1 YO, work st with marker, 1 YO, work in garter st until 2 sts remain before 5th marker, work 2 sts tog, insert the next 72-76-80-82-90-92 sts (includes sts with 5th and 6th marker) on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts), work in garter st the rest of round = 266-298-322-338-386-426 sts.

SIZE S-M-L:
ROUND 1 (= all uneven numbered rounds): P all sts, do not work YOs twisted; they should make holes.
ROUND 2: Continue with stripes and in garter st as before, work until 1st marker (= mid back), 1 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO (= 2 sts inc), work until 4 sts remain before marker under sleeve, K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), work until 4th marker (= mid front), 1 YO (= 1 st inc), K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO (= 1 st inc), work until 4 sts remain before marker under sleeve, K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec), work the rest of round.
ROUND 4: Work as 2nd round.
ROUND 6: Work until 1st marker (= mid back), 1, YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO (= 2 sts inc), work until 6 sts remain before marker under sleeve, * K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 sts dec), work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), * K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 1 more times (= 2 sts dec), work until 4th marker (= mid front), 1 YO (= 1 st inc), K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO (= 1 st inc), work until 6 sts remain before marker under sleeve, * K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 sts dec), work 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), * K the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 sts dec), work the rest of round (= 4 sts dec in total on round).
Repeat 1st-6th round 4 times in total = 250-282-306 sts.

ALL SIZES:
= 250-282-306-338-386-426 sts. Leave sts on circular needle. They should be worked tog with an edge worked from side to side. Displace sts so that st with 1st marker is beg of round.

KNIT TOGETHER:
Now work from mid back, left back piece to the side, left front piece to mid, right front piece to right side then back right piece. Cast on 34-28-20-20-20-20 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with off white. Now work back and forth as follows:

LEFT BACK PIECE (bottom edge):
Piece should now be worked tog with sts from needle from 1st marker and to marker under sleeve, from mid back on tip of domino to the left side.

ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO and K rest of row (= 1 st inc).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, do not work YOs twisted on this row, they should make holes, slip the first 2 sts from yoke back on needle, K 3 tog.
Switch to rose mist/pink.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO and K rest of row (= 1 st inc).
ROW 4 (= WS): K until 6 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 5 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K until 4 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 7 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, slip the first 2 sts from yoke back on needle, K 3 tog.
Switch to off white.
Repeat 1st-8th row until all sts before marker in the side (= left back piece) is worked tog with edge.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (bottom edge):
Piece is worked tog with sts from half front piece, i.e. from marker in the side and down to tip of domino mid front.

ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 2 twisted tog, K 2 twisted tog, K the rest of row (= 1 st dec).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, do not work YOs twisted on this row, they should make holes, slip the first 2 sts from yoke back on needle, K 3 tog.
Switch to rose mist/pink.
ROW 3 (= RS): As 1st row.
ROW 4 (= WS): K until 6 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 5 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K until 4 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 7 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, slip the first 2 sts from yoke back on needle, K 3 tog.
Switch to off white.
Repeat 1st-8th row down to tip mid front, on last repetition of 8th or 2nd row slip the first 3 sts from stitch holder back on needle, K 4 tog.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (bottom edge):
Piece is worked tog with sts from the tip of domino mid front and up to the marker in the right side. Work as left back piece.

RIGHT BACK PIECE (bottom edge):
Work piece tog with sts from the side i.e. marker, to mid back i.e. tip of domino. Work as left front piece. Bind off when all sts from yoke have been worked tog with edge, adjust so that last stripe is with rose mist/pink.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles in GARTER ST - see explanation above and stripes. Slip sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 = 72-76-80-82-90-92 sts. Cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts at the end of first round = 80-84-88-94-102-104 sts. Then work stripes. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts (= mid under sleeve) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE - READ MEASURING TIP. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 st on each side of marker (= 2 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every 1 cm / 3/8'' 6-6-10-12-17-17 times, then every 2 cm / 3/4'' 4-5-2-2-0-0 times = 60-62-64-66-68-70 sts. Bind off when piece measures 23 cm / 9''. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew cast-on edge tog (i.e. the first 7 sts).

Diagram explanations
symbol = this is on an approx. measurement, measurement depend on how many rows are worked on bottom edge
symbol = knitting direction

Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Do you need help with this pattern?

You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com.
Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store that sold you the yarn.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site.